Somerset > Fairy Cave Quarry >
Dan's Dance E1 5b

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32m. Eliminate in its lower half, but a good, long route nonetheless. Start as for Strictly Ballroom. Step up right and climb the slab above the small tree, passing a metre right of the blast pocket, to the left edge of a niche. Move up and follow right-rising diagonal cracks to a good square-cut hold. Stand up in this and climb straight up to pass just right of a sapling. Continue direct to pass just left of the foot of a grassy rake; then trend rightwards to reach and follow a thin flake (crux). Finish straight up to a lower-off, or, if this is not in situ, scramble up grassy slopes to saplings.
B Mullan, H, K and J Seaborne 07/Apr/2011
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This climb is in 27 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

felixizzy - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/14 with Craig

Lots of the gear slots clogged with mud.
wurzelinzummerset - Lead rpt - 01/Jun/14 with Ric

bonelessivar - 2nd - 01/Jun/14 with Alan

First E1 lead of the year. Bolder than I remember from seconding.
The Ivanator - Lead β - 04/May/14 with Rob

Hidden - TR rpt - 03/May/14

Hidden - TR - 03/May/14

davenev - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/14 with David

drgrange - 2nd - 29/Apr/14 with davenev

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/14

Fun slab. Thin and balancy, but protected
clipskipper - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/14 with Andy Manders

Never E1 more like HVS 5a.... If that! Fun though :-)
Felix Ottey - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/13

Steve Woollard - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/13 with Samantha Roach

SamanthaRoach12 - 2nd O/S - 07/Aug/13 with Steve Woollard

Some nice moves on this, driest bit of the Glacis whilst we were on it, but that didn't last as the rain set in. Better gear than Strictly Ballroom.
The Ivanator - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/13 with Roger

riddle - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/13 with Ivan B

maresia - 2nd O/S - 26/May/13 with Mike Kann

upontop - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/12 with Sophie

wurzelinzummerset - 2nd - 23/May/12 with Brian

Needs traffic.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 23/May/12 with Alan

Hidden - TR O/S - 23/May/12

Put glued snaplink on lower-off. Will do for now.
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 31/Jan/12 with Shunt

Installed twin sapling lower-off, but still needs crab or ring.
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 05/May/11 with Shunt

Paul Robertson - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11 with BPM

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 20/Apr/11 with Clare

First ascent. Nice rockover move in the first few metres, and an interesting crux high on the route. Hope the flake survives.
bpmclimb - Lead β - 07/Apr/11 with Helen S

nice moves. And very generous of Brian to share his first ascent with the mob of us!
hms - 2nd β - 07/Apr/11 with kate, Jenny, Brian

Hidden - TR β - 07/Apr/11

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:

Total votes cast 20
hard E20 of 8
E20 of 8
easy E20 of 8
hard E10 of 8
E14 of 8
easy E13 of 8
hard HVS1 of 8
HVS0 of 8
easy HVS0 of 8
hard 5c0 of 7
5c0 of 7
easy 5c0 of 7
hard 5b0 of 7
5b3 of 7
easy 5b3 of 7
hard 5a1 of 7
5a0 of 7
easy 5a0 of 7
3 Stars0 of 5
2 Stars0 of 5
1 Star4 of 5
0 Stars1 of 5
Bag of .....0 of 5
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Style of ascent

Lead13 of 27 (48.1%)
Followed8 of 27 (29.6%)
Toproped6 of 27 (22.2%)

'Climbed'4 of 27 (14.8%)
clean O/S13 of 27 (48.1%)
clean β4 of 27 (14.8%)
clean rpt6 of 27 (22.2%)