Restricted Access
Gate for Canto Cochino opens at 9 a.m. Once the gate is open follow the road through the forest to its end where there is a large car park and Bar. Gate closes at 10pm - Dont be late!!Also you should check seasonal bird bans, ask the rangers at the main entrance for Canto Ccochino (if they are there)
There is no restriction at the El Tranco car park, and no barrier - you can access all the park from here but its a longer walk!
Rockfax Description
Although not a totally free route this is something of a classic expedition up the wall. Its main appeal is gaining and climbing the short and unique water hole/tube half way up the cliff.
1) 6a/A0, 45m. Start just left of the corner at the base of the large water streak. Climb up to a white coloured diagonal flake and move out left onto the slab above it - bolt. Move up to the base of a bolt ladder and aid up this, until you can free climb again past another couple of bolts to the belay.
2) 5b, 30m. Move up the slab passing spaced bolts and cross the black streak to reach the scoop below the enticing hole.
3) 5c/A0. 50m. Make a couple of aid moves up to the hole, squirm through it and then climb up and left, past another couple of aid moves, before continuing up to a shared belay.
4) 5b, 50m. Move up and left to gain the right hand of two cracks above the bulge and follow this to easier ground as for Nani. © Rockfax
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Editorial Aguado
Grade: 6a ***
(La Pedriza (Anterior))