Restricted Access
Gate for Canto Cochino opens at 9 a.m. Once the gate is open follow the road through the forest to its end where there is a large car park and Bar. Gate closes at 10pm - Dont be late!!Also you should check seasonal bird bans, ask the rangers at the main entrance for Canto Ccochino (if they are there)
There is no restriction at the El Tranco car park, and no barrier - you can access all the park from here but its a longer walk!
Rockfax Description
A fine adventure that seeks out the easiest way up and across this massive cliff. It is a major undertaking requiring commitment, although there is some fixed gear up there.
1) 5a, 25m. Start up the right-trending corner and belay where a prominent crack heads diagonal up and left across the wall.
2) 4c, 45m. Follow the crack until it is possible to gain another crack above. Climb this to gain another crack and follow this to a belay just short of a diagonal groove
3) 5c, 25m. Move left into the base of the groove and move immediately out of it onto an exposed slab passing a bolt. Head up and left into a scoop and belay.
4) 5b, 25m. Make a difficult few moves up the left side of the scoop to gain an easy traverse line that leads left past a couple of threads to a belay in some cracks below some grooves in the bulge above.
5) 5b, 60m. Traverse left along the prominent break until a escape can be made up a line of weakness past a thread in a higher diagonal line. Follow this to a groove and then head straight up the easier-angled terrain. © Rockfax
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Logged Ascents
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Guirles-Campos
Grade: 5c ***
(La Pedriza (Anterior))