Avoid the crag after rain - the porous rock absorbs water causing holds to become brittle. The top tier bouldering normally dries fastest and is exposed to any wind going.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Peregrines nest left of Clashhooks Gully as you look in, please avoid all routes on Upper & Lower Central Buttresses during this period. Raven have also been sighted around the route 'The Notch' - climbers are advised to avoid this area if the birds are in residence.
Peregrine chicks were confirmed in 2022, 2023 was less clear and we're checking the situation for 2024. The site is actively monitored by local bird groups, please avoid until the agreed date of 30 June and possibly longer to give chicks chance to fledge. Peregrines are a protected species covered by criminal law.
Rockfax Description
Climb the face right of Morgue Slab, past a crucial undercut move, to join its final moves. © Rockfax
Andy Popp, Pete Chadwick.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Pekkie | 21 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Have checked with Buzz and what we did was definitely a different line. We climbed diagonally left from the start of Necrophiliac to Morgue Slab at the roof then cut out left via sone very hard moves (for us!)to finish just right of Magical Charm. 'Lust for Life' NL 6b (Get it? Morgue Slab/Necrophiliac - Andy/Iggy Popp? No? Ah well). | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Have checked with Buzz and what we did was definitely a different line. We climbed diagonally left from the start of Necrophiliac to Morgue Slab at the roof then cut out left via sone very hard moves (for us!)to finish just right of Magical Charm. 'Lust for Life' NL 6b (Get it? Morgue Slab/Necrophiliac - Andy/Iggy Popp? No? Ah well). |
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Pekkie | 21 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Seem to remember keeping going across Morgue at the roof to finish on the left (on a top rope, of course - what, me lead?) via a very technical mantelshelf to finish just right of Magical Charm. Would be a good counter diagonal to Morgue Slab. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Seem to remember keeping going across Morgue at the roof to finish on the left (on a top rope, of course - what, me lead?) via a very technical mantelshelf to finish just right of Magical Charm. Would be a good counter diagonal to Morgue Slab. |
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Grade: E3 6a ***
(Helsby)