Rockfax Description
III, 1000m, 5 - 6 hours. A fun route which is quite popular when word gets out that conditions are good. Follow the Eugster Diagonal for 50m past where it branches left.
1) Traverse right to reach the snowfield and climb this to its top right corner via some 55 degree snow.
2) Step left and climb the gully in two excellent icy pitches.
3) Move left at the top of these and climb a short icy wall to a small snowfield.
4) Easier but still enjoyable mixed climbing leads to a ridge. Follow this leftwards over some fun moderate terrain to reach the final snow slopes of the Mallory-Porter and finish up this. © Rockfax
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Grade: D+ 6a ***
(La Grande Falaise de Séloge)