Rockfax Description
II, 200m, 2 - 3 hours. This delightful traverse can be done in both directions. It is easier from north to south but not as good.
Approach - From the Helbronner lift, descend slightly to the Col du Géant and gently climb to the foot of the ridge.
1) Approach the south end of the ridge and join it by climbing low-angled mixed ground just to the right of the most northerly summit.
2) 5a. Having joined the ridge follow it briefly to a small (5m) wall, which is climbed with difficulty (5a) to a peg belay. Easier looking ground lies to the left of this wall, but the rock is poor and not recommended.
3) Follow the ridge crest in a spectacular position, paying attention to some loose blocks. The ridge drops away briefly and there is a 20m abseil from a block (abseil cord usually in place).
4) From here the next small summit is climbed via a short, blocky chimney on the left. Continue for 10m along the ridge crest to a 10m abseil down a slab on the west side of the ridge. It is possible to join the ridge here in order to avoid the 5a wall.
5) 4a. Follow the ridge crest easily, and turn the first small tower on the left. The second tower is climbed initially on the left for 5m, and then a slab/corner on the crest (4a). This tower can be avoided by going right, but this relies on snow cover.
6) 4b. The final ridge is straightforward and extremely aesthetic. The east ridge branches off 20m before the summit, but it is well worth tagging the top before descending this, although the final move is worth 4b. The summit is spectacular, and there is usually abseil tat to allow the final moves to be descended safely.
Descent - Retrace the final 20m of the ascent route, and turn left down the east ridge. Follow this on the crest (easier with more snow) in an exposed position down towards the Col de Rochefort. There is a short rocky step near the end of the ridge which may often require a 7m abseil. From the Col de Rochefort, walk back to the Rifugio Torino or Helbronner lift (45 minutes). © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Ascend south ridge, descend east ridge.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 08/Oct Lead
chris smith 07/Sep Lead O/S

Hard 5a section and loose approach spoilt the route. A little boring after the first part of the ridge is complete.

OrphusBoi 06/Sep 2nd
with Chris Smith
EuanM 29/Aug Lead

Full traverse was out due to rockfall. Reversed the north ridge which was still enjoyable.

wchan 24/Jul -
leopolian 04/Jul AltLd O/S

Started at 5am with a nice short approach after a less than ideal night's sleep. Moved together for most of the ridge which felt quite simple most of the time. Think we managed to avoid a lot of the trickier rock sections by mistake which took away some of the interest.

Sarah Roscoe 04/Jul AltLd
with Matt Hs
Naomi.P 04/Jul AltLd
with Leo H
Sam Simpson 02/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jul AltLd
Nesa 27/Jun -
with L. Muirhead, B. Bradford (Guide)
Nemo9 21/Jun -

Nice route for a rainy afternoon!

with Col
Rory Southworth 09/Jun -
DaveThexton 13/Mar AltLd O/S
Jenn_Stretton 13/Mar AltLd
philmcf ?/Jul/15 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/15 AltLd
dauwhe 12/Sep/14 -
with Adam George
Alex_RhodesUK 05/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Paolo Intropido
Danbow73 24/Jul/14 -
gingerbex 24/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Dan Bow
ben.phillips 11/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
RoscoJB 04/Jul/14 AltLd

Moving together

Hidden 03/Jul/14 Lead
johnrich 18/Jun/14 2nd
JHolland 18/Dec/13 -
Dave McKechnie 27/Aug/13 -
with Amy Green
Hidden 02/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
masmith 02/Jul/13 AltLd
with Camilla Mapstone, Joanna Smith
Avinash Aujayeb 22/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with James Thacker
Hidden 03/Aug/12 AltLd
BoulderyDave 03/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Nice route. Not obvious how to rap at the end but a good few hours out.

Andy Hewison 25/Jul/12 -

Easy day, cable car to Helbronner, had a nice little technical climb to get onto the ridge. Easy ridge then dropped down into Col de Rochfort. Had to wait a couple of hours for the cable car back!

with Vince, Fred
Woolly 09/Jul/12 AltLd
steveprice.exmouth 09/Jul/12 AltLd
Hidden 27/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
industrialiceman 27/Jun/11 -
stevev ??/2011 -
yashvi 25/Jun/10 AltLd
Hidden 20/Jul/09 -
CGlennie ?/Aug/08 -
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