Derbyshire > New Mills Torrs >
 
Heavy Duty* E2 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Bionics Traverse
 
King of the Swingers >>
16m. Climb into the hanging groove (peg). At its top swing up and right before trending back left by pumpy climbing. © ROCKFAX
FA. Al Evans 1977

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors).

Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 21 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

I saw George, who flashed a boulder problem I struggled on, hanging on this on bottom-rope, so I expected it would be hard, but it wasn't. Sustained E1?
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/13 with Mitch

Hidden - 2nd dog - 04/Aug/13

very pumpy, but excellent climbing 3 stars for me, i guess the top brings it down to 2 stars
samsimpson - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/13 with Alan Barnes

Failed the onsight a few weeks ago, but just managed this time.
steveghalifax - Lead β - 12/Jun/13 with Steve Gregory

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/13

Frank the Husky - 2013

super go-ey route
phil64 - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/12 with matt dean

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/12 with Ruth & Carl

Cool route. Did it after dogging my way up king of the swingers the day before. Went up and placed the wires in the crack next to the break before downclimbing back to the rest. The moves up to the second break are superb and juggy but nicely runout. Would be a big fall if you fell at the break before placing gear! fun fun fun!
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/12 with Dave

mwatson - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/12

led on mike's gear.
Nick1812P - Lead β - 09/Jul/12 with Mike

Pumpy, greasy and sweaty today! Good route though, never harder than 5b, just pumpy. Safe enough to be fun, it deserves more than one star.
Joughton - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/12

Hidden - 2011

On Greg's gear, v good, underrated.
Stig - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/10 with Greg

Yo yo'd, clean second go. Pump caught me on last section first attempt, took a nice clean fall, lowered off then had it. Lost a wire after falling on it, reckon it'll be in situ til it rots. 2 stars.
Dave Foster - Lead rpt - 18/Jul/10 with Andy

took a big fall from the top mirco cam popped and fell to the first quart of the wall :) good fun didnt like it at the time oh on the top is full of bird poo! even if it has juggy holds..
jamesgodwin64 - Lead dnf - May/10 with R8JimBob88

Brown - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/09 with Henry

gregoritos - Lead O/S - May/08 with Dave kettle

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/96 with Rick Scott

Roget - Lead O/S - 18/May/96 with jon

Hidden - Lead - 23/Feb/92

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 46
hard E30 of 16
E30 of 16
easy E31 of 16
hard E26 of 16
E26 of 16
easy E22 of 16
hard E11 of 16
E10 of 16
easy E10 of 16
hard 5c0 of 16
5c0 of 16
easy 5c4 of 16
hard 5b5 of 16
5b7 of 16
easy 5b0 of 16
hard 5a0 of 16
5a0 of 16
easy 5a0 of 16
3 Stars4 of 14
2 Stars6 of 14
1 Star4 of 14
0 Stars0 of 14
Bag of .....0 of 14
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead18 of 21 (85.7%)
Followed1 of 21 (4.8%)
Unknown2 of 21 (9.5%)

'Climbed'3 of 21 (14.3%)
clean O/S13 of 21 (61.9%)
clean β2 of 21 (9.5%)
clean rpt1 of 21 (4.8%)
dogged1 of 21 (4.8%)
dnf1 of 21 (4.8%)