Derbyshire > New Mills Torrs >
King of the Swingers** E1 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Heavy Duty
Rain Games >>
26m. A pumpy diagonal that is not too hard but keeps on coming. Climb Heavy Duty to the peg then follow the break diagonally across the wall all the way tothe final shallow corenr of Redemption. © ROCKFAX
FA. Al Evans , Andrea Evans 20/May/1989

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors).

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This climb is in 31 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

Nice on second! but we finished to far left as the top was wet.
Andy Peak 1 - 2nd - 02/Mar/14 with Andrew Deckon

Finished out left because the top was gopping. Looking at the comments it appears that I've seconded this previously with James.
deacondeacon - Lead - 02/Mar/14

jamesgodwin64 - Lead β - 26/Jun/13 with John Copper

samsimpson - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/13 with Tom Doldon

Frank the Husky - 2013

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Ruth, Phil

Bad gear on the traverse, got pumped and backed off.
James Oakes - Lead dnf - 22/Sep/12

gw3285 - 2nd - 23/Aug/12

With Deacon. Really tough and definitely e2.! Placed to much gear and got pumped out of my mind. Ended up resting twice as had little motivation 2nd time..!
James Oswald - Lead dog - 31/Jul/12 with deacon

Need to go back and top out properly as finished slightly left through some ivy, but was pumped silly and the top section was wet. Cool route
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/12 with john Bramwell

This route and all the others that lead to the top of Bionics wall have a serious issue with their finishes on the upper section. There isd a serious need of some crag gardening at the top before any of the last sections on this wall are viable. Paul escaped off left to the small tree after the pumpy traverse.
stratandrew - 2nd dnf - 15/Apr/12 with Paul Evans

jshields - 2nd - 11/Mar/12 with Paul Tretheway

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Nov/11

after a few failures i realised that it's all about tactics - and knowing 2 gear placements in advance. still think it's very hard for E1 though. not technically, just very sustained and with potential for big swings - maybe there's a clue in the name
Alex@home - Lead rpt - 06/Nov/11 with Tony Moody

Felt hard. A moment when I wondered if I had the minerals!
Ian Broome - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Pete, Simon

Topo wrong in Rockfax (no surprise) finnished up Bionic's wall instead, left looked chossy. Steep
rob.s22 - Lead O/S - May/11 with A.K

Mr Sparkle - Lead O/S - 22/Jan/11 with Mike Hayes

wolverine - 2nd - 22/Jan/11 with Matt Sparkes

Hidden - 2011

Stig - 2nd rpt - 07/Oct/10 with Greg

Hidden - 2nd - 08/May/10

Nails, really really pumpy, although the technical crux is certainly the start.
Dan Lane - Lead dog - 01/May/10 with Mark Rankine

This was about the only dry(ish) line on four crags we looked at! I may have traversed too low, felt well hard for E1, hence resting on gear. Then I slipped off a couple of times due to the soaking wet breaks... Maybe it'll feel like E1 on a dry, sunny day :)
PeteH - Lead dog - 06/Oct/09 with Chris Fox

Stig - 2nd rpt - 25/Jun/08 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

its shit and sandy and well 'ard
metal arms - Lead dog - 14/Jun/08

Quality. Start is probably the crux.
Stig - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/08 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

gregoritos - Lead O/S - May/08 with Dave kettle

Hidden - TR dnf - 04/Jan/08

Well named: traversed at wrong height & took a big swing
cem - Lead dnf - 18/Aug/07 with Rob Truckle

Roget - Lead O/S - 18/May/96

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 17/Jul/93 with Andy Barker

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden

Total votes cast 43
hard E20 of 15
E20 of 15
easy E27 of 15
hard E18 of 15
E10 of 15
easy E10 of 15
hard HVS0 of 15
HVS0 of 15
easy HVS0 of 15
hard 5c0 of 14
5c0 of 14
easy 5c2 of 14
hard 5b1 of 14
5b11 of 14
easy 5b0 of 14
hard 5a0 of 14
5a0 of 14
easy 5a0 of 14
3 Stars4 of 14
2 Stars6 of 14
1 Star4 of 14
0 Stars0 of 14
Bag of .....0 of 14
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Style of ascent

Lead17 of 31 (54.8%)
Followed11 of 31 (35.5%)
Toproped1 of 31 (3.2%)
Unknown2 of 31 (6.5%)

'Climbed'9 of 31 (29.0%)
clean O/S10 of 31 (32.3%)
clean β1 of 31 (3.2%)
clean rpt3 of 31 (9.7%)
dogged4 of 31 (12.9%)
dnf4 of 31 (12.9%)