without any rules about knees and toes (but no knee rubber)- 7A+ for me.
i_a_coops - Sent x - 15/Dec/14
Second session this year. Fell off the move going to the jug on golden bicep twice. Adjusted my sequence going to the jug, used a toe hook instead. Managed to send it just as skin was fading. Really good route with some excellent moves - best problem at Huntsham.
Garrouli - Sent x - 04/Apr/14
Should have reminded myself of the final sequence before trying, felt strong but mucked it up :-)
tombeasley - Sent dnf - 09/Mar/14
The culmination of so many sessions pottering up into the woods to crab sideways along the Sliced Slug. Hardest fight yet? Awesome link of two ace problems with sweet flowing moves. I dont understand how to apply font grades to 30 move linkups but in French grades I think it's 7c+.
AJM - Sent x - 05/Nov/13
Nice! Long power endurance problem, I've fallen off the crux on Golden Bicep a few times, today fell off there again, then had a good word with myself and really engrained the beta in my head before the dispatch! Similar difficulty to Left Wall High in Parisellas - probably worth font 7c and french 7c+.
Mike Goldthorp - Sent x - 11/Oct/13 with Tim Peck, Kieran King
1st go today, 3rd go / try having done Ames low previously, no rest (knee bar) or heel. (French - Font Traverse 7c for me) 3* problem one of the best at Huntsham for sure.
tombeasley - Sent x - 10/Sep/13
Slipped out of jug on Golden Bicep, will get it next time. Didn't use rest or heal but still not 7b+ - font traverse grade probably describes it best.
tombeasley - Sent dnf - 08/Sep/13
Hidden - Sent rpt - 10/Jul/13
Hidden - Sent dnf - 26/Jun/13
Easy 7b+, especially with the sneaky knee bar semi rest on the low flake. Thanks Ross! He also showed me a version where you heel hook the flake and go to the finishing finger jug of Golden Bicep static. A good variation but 7b this way.
Dan Savory - Sent x - 26/Apr/13
Hidden - Sent x - 26/Apr/13
Hidden - Sent dnf - 23/Apr/13
Hidden - Sent dnf - 21/Apr/13
Hidden - Sent dnf - 20/Apr/13
Paulos - Sent - Apr/13
quality link up of properly the best two problems at huntsham! climbed first go but have done both the problems many times.
grey wolf - Sent x - 29/Sep/12
fyfee8a - 09/Sep/12
Hidden - Sent - May/12
At last. 2nd go 2day. As much as a 7c looks good in the log book, don't think its 7c, font 7b+
peaches69 - Sent x - 15/Jan/12
First go got to the crux on Golden Bicep! only had one go! once youv done the long stuff at Dinas this dont feel that bad, should go next sesh!
MorganPreece - Sent dnf - 15/Jan/12
Came off golden bicep crux twice after a couple goes on some moves. Long an sustained route, think probably worthy of font 7c
peaches69 - Sent dnf - 08/Jan/12
done aims low and linked into slugtaste before, 2Nd go goto the big move on golden bicep, conditions were less than perfect with humidity but i reakon will go next visit
peaches69 - Sent dnf - 03/Jul/11
After many sessions on ames low and a further 3 to make the link. Pretty sure its a first ascent but please let me know if it has been done and named before and I will change details.
Is a standout problem of the crag with great climbing linking two of the best problems here. 30 moves long so may warrant a french grade rather than a font grade. Look forward to repeats for confirmation of grade.
BenNorman - Sent x - 28/Apr/11