Restricted Access
The crag is south facing for the most part and quick drying, especially with a bit of sea breeze. However, it's worth bearing in mind that traversing along the platform at the base of the crag (needed to get to most routes) can be exciting in anything other than calm seas. The traverse is generally accessible 3 hours either side of high tide for most of the crag and the base of Terrier's Tooth and Bishop's Buttress for slightly longer, although these times are significantly reduced during neap tides. During high tides or when big seas are running, it is also possible to abseil in to the upper pitches of several routes.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies to all routes on Bishop's Buttress - from Lacertion to The Mitre inclusive (route 82, page 153 to route 14, page 159 in the 2017 Climber's Club guidebook).
Routes within Zawn Rinny (Consolation Climb to Shark Alley) are also restricted during the same period, but the Zawn Rinny descent for the western end of Chair Ladder is fine to use.
Rockfax Description
A wandering line up the far left of the crag that features a steep second pitch. Start on a ledge 5m right of the boulder jammed across the entrance to Zawn Rinny.
1) 20m. Climb the wall to a black niche on the right. Ascend the crack (hard) or wall to its right and reach a good belay ledge.
2) 4c, 20m. Above is a steep wall and overhang. Climb the wall via strenuous cracks, passing just left of the overhang to reach a slab. Continue up the slab to a pinnacle and belay.
3) 4a, 13m. Move down left and then traverse left across a black streak to a groove that is climbed to ledges and a belay. Scrambling remains above the belay. © Rockfax
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Chair Ladder
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C Land Super
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Cligga Head)