UKC

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The crag is south facing for the most part and quick drying, especially with a bit of sea breeze. However, it's worth bearing in mind that traversing along the platform at the base of the crag (needed to get to most routes) can be exciting in anything other than calm seas. The traverse is generally accessible 3 hours either side of high tide for most of the crag and the base of Terrier's Tooth and Bishop's Buttress for slightly longer, although these times are significantly reduced during neap tides. During high tides or when big seas are running, it is also possible to abseil in to the upper pitches of several routes.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to all routes on Bishop's Buttress - from Lacertion to The Mitre inclusive (route 82, page 153 to route 14, page 159 in the 2017 Climber's Club guidebook).

Routes within Zawn Rinny (Consolation Climb to Shark Alley) are also restricted during the same period, but the Zawn Rinny descent for the western end of Chair Ladder is fine to use. 

70m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The enduring classic at this end of Chair Ladder provides a long and diverse expedition. Start at a corner-crack in the centre of the bulging wall left of a deep seawater filled trench.

1) 4b, 32m. Climb the wide crack to its end and continue to an overhang above it. Pull over the overhang at a crack (easier on the right) and ascend a short wall to a large ledge and belay.
2) 4a, 20m. Move up onto a bubbly slab on the right and climb it to the base of a corner. Climb the corner and the enticing right curving continuation to a stance at its end.
3) 4b, 18m. Move back left and make a hard move up onto a ledge. Traverse left to gain another ledge and then step right and finish up a short slabby groove and wide crack. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock , West Country Climbs , Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe , South West VDiff-HVS , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist , Ultimate HS ticklist , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Learning to Trad Climb: Cornwall , 50 more great HS routes , Cornwall , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett , South West Coastal Solo , Luke & Andy's Cornish Climbathon

Feedback

User Date Notes
milanboez 23 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route. First pitch felt high in the grade. Second pitch delicate in places. Third pitch crux - what's the drama? Got 4 pieces of average size gear (nuts and cams) before the mantel, which isn't as bad as people make out. Recommended.
βeta?
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βeta: Fantastic route. First pitch felt high in the grade. Second pitch delicate in places. Third pitch crux - what's the drama? Got 4 pieces of average size gear (nuts and cams) before the mantel, which isn't as bad as people make out. Recommended.
jonesdwill 30 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Gulls nesting just above first belay. Would avoid for a while.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Gulls nesting just above first belay. Would avoid for a while.
Iain Weymouth 30 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: 3 pairs of nesting herring gulls around P2. I'd give it a miss for the time being
βeta?
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βeta: 3 pairs of nesting herring gulls around P2. I'd give it a miss for the time being
Jasper Pickin 1 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Alternate leading with my brother and dad (I'm 14) and I had the 3rd pitch. First move of the third pitch pretty tough and gear is not great before it. Would recommend micro cams/aliens. If HS is your max grade wouldn't recommend
βeta?
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βeta: Alternate leading with my brother and dad (I'm 14) and I had the 3rd pitch. First move of the third pitch pretty tough and gear is not great before it. Would recommend micro cams/aliens. If HS is your max grade wouldn't recommend
mishabruml 14 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: There are very aggressive and protective seagulls nesting on P2 of this route just before the curving crack. They divebombed me and we had to bail
βeta?
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βeta: There are very aggressive and protective seagulls nesting on P2 of this route just before the curving crack. They divebombed me and we had to bail
jfms 23 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Last pitch raised to 4c in the 2017 edition of the CC Cornwall (South) guide book and I think that's correct.
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βeta: Last pitch raised to 4c in the 2017 edition of the CC Cornwall (South) guide book and I think that's correct.
Peter271263 23 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Good route
βeta?
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βeta: Good route

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 78
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 76
Votes cast 73
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Demo Route

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Sennen)

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