An incredibly good power-endurance route with great moves and rock. The first couple of bolts have been chopped, so a clipstick is useful as the first bolt is now at 3.5m. Start on the left and traverse up and rightwards to the arete, move leftwards then upwards to the other arete and easy ground. FA Bob Hickish 3.6.2009. Bolted by Pete Oxley. © ROCKFAX
UKC Logbook Description
This is an old project about 60m to the right of "The Incredible Hulk", on the other side of the pinnacle. It’s the expansion bolts that follow an “S” shape line climbing above the hanging arête. Start on the left and traverse upward and rightwards to the arête, from here move leftwards then upwards to the other arête to find the first staple bolt and easy ground. It is possible to escape at the end of the rightwards traverse into the big flake/roof crack line (7c+) but this is awkward, scary and not nearly as good. The actual line is an incredibly good power endurance route with great moves and rock; 3 stars. Would be repeaters should note that as someone has chopped the first couple of bolts, it may provide peace of mind to bring a clipstick for your first go, the first bolt is now 3.5 m up with slightly tricky climbing to get there.
Bob Hickish 03/Jun/2009
Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List.