Rockfax Description
The imposing flaky crack-system. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The Impressive crackline gives a good pitch needing a lot of cleaning! First bolt quite high up but some nice jams above. After reports of dangerous blocks, a large quantity of unstable rock has been removed from this route (17.06.20). The remaining line is now arguably more stable but as can be deduced from the route's appearance, the security of the residual rock in the large crack system remains dubious at best. A lot of the nice jams no longer exist - if you're looking at the route from the bottom, you'll be standing on what they consisted of!
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Gary Gibson | 22 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: First ascent GaryGibson but mostly fallen down | βeta? | |
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βeta: First ascent GaryGibson but mostly fallen down |
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| Megan R Cocksedge | 12 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: Pure choss | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pure choss |
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| Jay Swinstead | 5 Mar, 2023 |
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βeta: Big hold near second bolt was very loose and ready to pull out, whole route is looking pretty sketchy | βeta? | |
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βeta: Big hold near second bolt was very loose and ready to pull out, whole route is looking pretty sketchy |
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| Fraser kid | 9 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: This is a piece of shit which needs condemning | βeta? | |
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βeta: This is a piece of shit which needs condemning |
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| TommityP | 29 Mar, 2021 |
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βeta: Looks like a total death trap. A pile of choss with bolts in it. I would never get on it, and I hope that when it falls down it doesn’t have someone on it or under it! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Looks like a total death trap. A pile of choss with bolts in it. I would never get on it, and I hope that when it falls down it doesn’t have someone on it or under it! |
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| Philippa Leckie | 9 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Very chossy, ripped a massive chunk off rock of near the anchor and sent it down towards Robbie. Needs cleaning. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very chossy, ripped a massive chunk off rock of near the anchor and sent it down towards Robbie. Needs cleaning. |
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| angusfh | 13 May, 2020 |
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βeta: Huge chunk of the route came off this afternoon, roughly the size of my coffee table. Fortunately no injury to climber or belayer, although I now need a new rope. The surrounding rock felt just as loose, sensible to give this one a miss? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Huge chunk of the route came off this afternoon, roughly the size of my coffee table. Fortunately no injury to climber or belayer, although I now need a new rope. The surrounding rock felt just as loose, sensible to give this one a miss? |
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| Steve_westy | 27 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Belayed a mate on it the other day. As he moved off the lower rock that is questionable I huge lump of rock from the back of the crack detached that was about the size of my arm. Had to dive for cover. Be warned, it’s shit. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Belayed a mate on it the other day. As he moved off the lower rock that is questionable I huge lump of rock from the back of the crack detached that was about the size of my arm. Had to dive for cover. Be warned, it’s shit. |
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| I Taylor | 26 May, 2019 |
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βeta: God that was awful. Climb up debris filled ledges to get to the main ledge above and the first (high) piece of protection. Then you\'re climbing up the crack system. I didn\'t need to jam at all, there were enough holds, either in the main crack or using the thin flake/crack to the left. A very unpleasant worry-fest, make sure your belayer is stood well to the right side as debris will be sent down. The main light coloured column feature (with a bolt/staple at the top of it) seems dodgy, if you are on it with hands and feet and you bang it with your hands, you can feel it through your feet. I so wish the protection at the top of it was a foot to the right on the solid wall, I did not want to be clipped to it if the whole column detaches itself. Yikes, even my second was nervous on a top rope. | βeta? | |
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βeta: God that was awful. Climb up debris filled ledges to get to the main ledge above and the first (high) piece of protection. Then you're climbing up the crack system. I didn't need to jam at all, there were enough holds, either in the main crack or using the thin flake/crack to the left. A very unpleasant worry-fest, make sure your belayer is stood well to the right side as debris will be sent down. The main light coloured column feature (with a bolt/staple at the top of it) seems dodgy, if you are on it with hands and feet and you bang it with your hands, you can feel it through your feet. I so wish the protection at the top of it was a foot to the right on the solid wall, I did not want to be clipped to it if the whole column detaches itself. Yikes, even my second was nervous on a top rope. |
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Route of Interest
Apollo Creed
Grade: 6b ***
(Harpur Hill Quarry)