Rockfax Description
A bold adventure. Originally pegs were used for protection but these are all now absent and the grade reflects this. Begin at a ledge below and right of the big corner.
1) 5c, 15m. Move up past the initial roof and break out to the right. Climb the steep wall back leftwards on large fragile holds to an easing and belay ledge.
2) 6a, 24m. Climb the groove on the left via a hard and committing pull into it and then progress up to a smooth slab. Move up left to the rib and climb up a short crack/groove to meet Lotus and follow it right to its stance and belay.
3) 4c, 15m. Lotus pitch 3. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A real North Coast adventure steep, stiff and commiting what more could you want! From the ledge at the bottom of the Lotus drop down a further 15 feet to the left looking out. The line goes through the steep roof breaking out to the right, climb the steep wall back leftwards on large fragile holds to respite and a deep breath at the obvious belay ledge. Climb the obvious groove on the left via a hard and commiting pull into it. From here more tricky climbing gains a crack and a niche and finally the belay of the Lotus. Finish up the last pitch of this. Note none of the pegs mentioned in the guide are currently in place making the route feel comminting!
A superb adventure route, all peg are now gone and Bold E4 is nearer the mark (SB)
M Fowler & S Fenwick 13/Jul/1985.
Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
nimajneb | 24 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: No pegs and no gear at belay. Looks to be some gear on crux but this is after a long run out. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: No pegs and no gear at belay. Looks to be some gear on crux but this is after a long run out. |
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(Tintagel Head)