Verdon Gorge > Gorges du Verdon >
 
À Tout Cur*** 6b+

Adjacent Climbs
<< Passion d'Amour
 
L'arabe ou Gris >>
7 pitches. 1) 6a, 2) 6a+, 3) 6a, 4) 6a+, 5) 6b+, 6) 5, 7) 4. A fine sustained climb up the pillar right of the long corner. It fizzles out a bit towards the top but only after covering loads of interesting ground.
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 31 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

from about p3 we think, then procedded to fall off left right and centre and probably finish up something else, great
stuart34 - AltLd dog - 10/Apr/14 with Adam Russel

I led pitch 1 and 3 and Chris led pitch 2. we got rained off and finished up chlorochose
jon_gill1 - AltLd dnf - 06/Apr/14 with ross garfoot, chris Lyness

finished up passion d'amour
Macleod - AltLd - 22/Mar/14 with dominic

michaelja - AltLd O/S - Oct/13

ambrooker - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/13 with Tom

chiverstom - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/13 with Alice

Amazing climb. Hard to know if we did the correct finnish. Wet.
Fredrik Nyberg - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/13 with Björn Pettersson

John Carney - Mar/13 with Adam George

Ed F - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Drew

David Smith - 26/Jun/11

David Smith - 26/Jun/11

I (eventually) walked away from this route feeling utterly dejected. Took pitches 1, 3, 5 & 6. Felt insecure on the first pitch. Fell of the second (6a+) pitch on second! Tried to lead the crux pitch but couldn't get past the 1st bolt and I thought I was solid at 6b+. Linked the final two pitches in one 60m push. It pissed down with rain first mind, so the wet ropes were quite a burden from 40m upwards. Utter, utter fail.
lrandall - Lead dog - 27/Apr/11 with Matteusz

Kate ran the last two pitches together in a storm! But she might have been off line on something harder (6a?) if the original finishes in the gully...
metal arms - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/11

Dave Reeve - AltLd O/S - Oct/10 with Tim Selvage

tigertim - AltLd - Oct/10 with Dave Reeve

Rested once after the difficulties on the 6b+ pitch. Great route, finished up Passion D'Amour.
sebrider - AltLd dog - 13/Aug/10 with Dan Walker

Finished on last two pitches of this after being distracted from our original route by an attractive trad crack
tom.ireson - AltLd O/S - Jun/10 with Paul Jones

Paul D Jones - AltLd - Jun/10

whistler - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/09 with Anna, Luke

Lead all pitches. Very hard work as we were too hot and did not have enough water (best not to mention why!) Would have been very enjoyable if it had been a bit cooler. Some lovely pitches and only a little bit of polish near the bottom. Be warned the belays are mostly semi-hanging! Also contains a few classic bits of verdon runout between the bolts, especially on the final blast for the chains at the end of each pitch. Would recommend doing it in the afternoon if you are confident you can move quickly as it goes into shade about 3 or 4ish and becomes alot nicer to climb.
tom.ireson - Lead dog - Jun/09 with Paul Jones

blaza1 - Lead O/S - 2009

Led pitches 2 & 4 before following Brian up Passion d'amour to finish.
kingholmesy - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Brian

K1 - 2006

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 28/May/97 with andy boorman

climbed with a group lead by Gigi Mario, the buddhist monk who is also an alpine guide. But he let me do my own thing, with Yogananda, a sicilian prince apprentice monk seconding.
Daniel Wrightson - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/93 with Yogananda

ewjudge - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/91 with Sven Wardle

Hidden - Jun/90

Rob Kennard - 1990

Hidden - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Aug/86

andy gittins - 1986

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
erik.., Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 6
hard 6c0 of 3
6c1 of 3
easy 6c0 of 3
hard 6b+2 of 3
6b+0 of 3
easy 6b+0 of 3
hard 6b0 of 3
6b0 of 3
easy 6b0 of 3
3 Stars2 of 3
2 Stars1 of 3
1 Star0 of 3
0 Stars0 of 3
Bag of .....0 of 3
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Style of ascent

Lead5 of 31 (16.1%)
Alt Leads18 of 31 (58.1%)
Unknown8 of 31 (25.8%)

'Climbed'12 of 31 (38.7%)
clean O/S14 of 31 (45.2%)
dogged4 of 31 (12.9%)
dnf1 of 31 (3.2%)