Somerset > Fairy Cave Quarry >
 
Lippy Fairy* E3 5c

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45m. A long and worthwhile expedition. Start up Rob's Crack; then traverse rightwards just above the lip of the overlap all the way to the concretions near the right-hand end of the slab. Make a few moves up the concretions; then use a right-slanting diagonal crack to reach a wide crack in the end of the slab. Climb this easily to the top.
Steve Findlay, Pete Shepard 2006
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 6 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

markfromstoke - 2nd - 25/Jun/14 with Adrian, Ian

a nice long sustained route that's quite well protected
ian d f - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/14 with Mark

riddle - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Mike Stephenson

mikeyjbs - 2nd - 15/Jul/12 with Roger Hamilton-Smith

The idea is to stay just above the lip of the overlap all the way across, although I got a little higher here and there in order to take advantage of gear and holds in horizontal cracks. The original line traversed all the way to a crack in the extreme right-hand end of the slab. However, the lowest part of this crack is very loose, and it's safer to stop the traverse a little earlier, go up a line of concretions a short way; then use a thin diagonal crack to move right to the more solid part of the crack system.
bpmclimb - Lead β - 13/Aug/11 with Helen S

hms - 2nd β - 13/Aug/11 with Brian

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Felix Ottey

Voting
Total votes cast 8
hard E40 of 3
E40 of 3
easy E40 of 3
hard E30 of 3
E30 of 3
easy E33 of 3
hard E20 of 3
E20 of 3
easy E20 of 3
hard 6a0 of 3
6a0 of 3
easy 6a0 of 3
hard 5c0 of 3
5c1 of 3
easy 5c2 of 3
hard 5b0 of 3
5b0 of 3
easy 5b0 of 3
3 Stars0 of 2
2 Stars1 of 2
1 Star1 of 2
0 Stars0 of 2
Bag of .....0 of 2
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