Traumpfeiler (Pillar of Dreams)*** VI
[Looking back at the Holy Ghost Tower from the road - 9 pitches of bolted (but take some cams) conglomerate rock. , 1 kb]9 pitches. Extremely impressive line (especially from a distance), with excellently varied and atmospheric climbing throughout. Generally good quality rock but some brittle rock on pitch 6 in particular. Good but sometimes very spaced bolts (circa 10m apart in places). Good cam placements to be found in the off-width crack (pitch 4) and thin crack (pitch 6). Pitch 7 had no obvious natural pro, being armed with only 3 bolts across 40m of slab climbing. Fantastic views from the summit on a sunny day, with a quick and easy 3 abseil and pleasant path descent.
Stutte and Magdefrau 1981

Photo: Looking back at the Holy Ghost Tower from the road - 9 pitches of bolted (but take some cams) conglomerate rock. © David Martin
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 4 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Fantastic route. Took an exciting (and happily totally safe) fall from the top of pitch 6 when a pebble broke.
DrGav - AltLd - 17/May/11 with Dave, Wendy

Does what it says on the tin. 9 pitches of wonderful and varied climbing, with stunning views back out over UNESCO World Heritage sites. Yes, its run out in places, but bolted where needed.
David Martin - AltLd O/S - 17/May/11 with Wendy, DrGav

Hidden - 2011

Julesthe1st - Lead O/S - Jun/07 with Alex Stripp

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
humptydumpty, Batt
Voting
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hard VI+0 of 1
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easy VI+0 of 1
hard VI0 of 1
VI1 of 1
easy VI0 of 1
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VI-0 of 1
easy VI-0 of 1
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