Mohammed the Medieval Melancholic** HVS 5a
[Mohammed the Medieval Melancholic, 2 kb]14m. The clean crack left of the arete is approached up ledges and gives a couple of steep moves to easy ground. © ROCKFAX
FA. Les Ainsworth 1966

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List.

Photo: Mohammed the Medieval Melancholic © Simon Caldwell

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 207 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

Really nice climb
Martin Davies - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/14 with Alice du Preez

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/14

Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/14 with Ruth Buckberry

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/14

David Kay - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/14 with Chris Waddle

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Aug/14

noemie5438 - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/14 with Marieke

tmawer - 2nd - 25/Jul/14 with Bram

BTphonehome - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/14 with Tony

martintom - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/14 with Sarah Keast

BigTone - Lead rpt - 06/Jul/14

sarahjk - 2nd - Jul/14 with martintom

Hidden - TR - 30/May/14

chris74 - Lead rpt - 27/May/14 with Mike. s

daveagriff - Lead O/S - 19/May/14 with Stuart Hossack

Hidden - Lead dog - 06/May/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/14

will_benfold - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/14 with Hester

stevorobs3 - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/14

leeoftroy - 2nd O/S - Mar/14

tjrukc - 2014

very committing @ the top, ballsy but great climbing.
BAZIL - Lead - 12/Oct/13 with paul haunch, wayne standish

Dave Richards - 2nd rpt - 05/Sep/13 with Chris74

chris74 - Lead rpt - 05/Sep/13 with Tom, Donald, Dave

spidey - 2nd - 04/Sep/13 with Phil buckle

Tough moves near the top, get some high gear in before committing to them.
ChrisGreen - Lead rpt - 19/Aug/13 with Jess E, Dave Craw, Craig Q

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Aug/13

pete40 - Lead - 01/Aug/13

Hidden - TR O/S - 08/Jul/13

Fell on the crux. Very dirty on the top moves making the top holds dusty and difficult.
Chris Nash - Lead dog - 05/Jul/13

Hidden - 30/Jun/13

I need to grow some balls
monkeymark - Lead dog - 21/Jun/13

ChrisGreen - TR rpt - 06/Jun/13 with John W

TallPaulT - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/13 with Rhian Kenny

Rhian Kenny - 2nd dog - 04/Jun/13 with Paul Taylor

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Jun/13

Matt Rowat - Lead O/S - 23/May/13 with Fran

Amazoniangirl - 2nd - 22/May/13 with Ben Green

Danny Crump - Lead - 22/May/13 with Richard Vaughan

Simonpeel - 2nd dog - 21/May/13

bgreen3761 - Lead O/S - 21/May/13

Martin Imms - Lead β - 08/May/13

Hidden - TR - Apr/13

droberts - 2nd - 19/Mar/13

Hidden - 23/Sep/12

Good climbing, took a while to figure out a crux as I was a bit too short to get the good jam, was a bit spicy butgood fun in the end
Paul Tanner - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/12 with Ben Tanner

Spent ages working out the crux, almost falling and resting. When finally commiting to the moves, it didn't feel half as bad as I thought it would. Damn!
Dave Richards - Lead dog - 06/Sep/12 with sjbrook

Had to rest on rope to remove gear that Dave had "rested" on!
sjbrook - 2nd rpt - 06/Sep/12 with Dave Richards, PMC

Tried 2 asents, got stuck in the crack at the end very dirty, i was moving more onto the arete instead of laying back in the crack.
Russ_Critchley - Lead dnf - 16/Aug/12

Russ_Critchley - Lead dnf - 16/Aug/12

Martin Imms - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/12

climbupflydown - 2nd dog - 22/Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Jul/12

Peter Metcalfe - TR - 12/Jul/12 with Cath Sullivan

Great gear placements.
Chris1234H - Lead - 07/Jul/12 with Samjharding95

Good climb! Scary top though
Samjharding95 - 2nd - 07/Jul/12 with Chris Harding

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jul/12

Derek Robinson - 2nd dnf - 12/Jun/12 with Mark Collins

Mark Collins - Lead rpt - 12/Jun/12 with Delboy

gb05 - 2nd O/S - 28/May/12 with Luke Vincent

A bit steeper than I am used to on the crack section, had a faff with gear and lost my ability to think. After getting pumped sat on rope. Technique went out window after finally committing. Next time. Very hard for VS which the guide book gives.
pffft - Lead dog - 28/May/12 with Jojo Mills

Guide book gives it vs 4c but feels harder than that, sustained crux on finger jams. First lead in my new boots.
sjbrook - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/12 with Dave Richards

Dave Richards - 2nd dnf - 24/Apr/12 with sjbrook

efrance24234 - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/12

Matt Harle - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12

Tricky little route, Rob had to rest on gear.
bigglesbutcha - 2nd rpt - 29/Mar/12 with rob hunt

erbridger - 2nd - 13/Nov/11

interesting move into the bottom of the crack gnarly committing finger lock move!
Jackspratt - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/11

adunlop - 2nd O/S - 11/Nov/11

Becky E - 2nd O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Graeme Hammond

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Becky E

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Sep/11

Took rest after getting pumped out not using the arete despite guidebook and local guy saying to use it.
freemanTom (Guildford MC) - Lead dog - 29/Jul/11 with Richard Henton

Hard move near the top - managed to get up, zero points for style
jonwright - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/11 with peter

Ian-WE - TR O/S - 11/Jul/11 with Damo

Hidden - Lead β - 27/Jun/11

monkeymark - 2nd rpt - 13/Jun/11

sgl - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Jess, Burkey, Susie

happy_c - Lead O/S - 24/May/11

WillCass - Lead O/S - 24/May/11 with Si

Hidden - Lead - 24/May/11

Hidden - 2nd - 24/May/11

augustus trout - Lead dnf - 11/May/11 with Dave Dillon

Hidden - Lead - 03/May/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 03/May/11

Hidden - 2nd β - 03/May/11

Note to self: watch those feeties.
skinnysomething - May/11

monkeymark - Lead dog - 17/Apr/11 with Andrew RC

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/11

norman hilton - Apr/11

bbangbala - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/11 with Tom Greenham

bigglesbutcha - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/11 with Simon Holden

petegunn - 2nd - 25/Feb/11 with Davina

Hidden - Lead dog - 25/Feb/11

escalade - 2011

Willie Eckerslike - 2011

Cold, numb fingers made for interesting finger lock moves... Definitely more VS than HVS.
Andyh83 - Lead O/S - 27/Nov/10

JYates - Lead rpt - 10/Oct/10 with Chris Wilson

cragmole - 2nd - 10/Oct/10

JYates - Lead dog - 26/Sep/10 with Will Hardy

Good climb, very dirty though
joe.91 - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/10 with Ben Crook

ratm - 2nd β - 08/Sep/10 with Joe Dobson

Used arete with right hand and crack with left at the crux...i can`t be the 1st i`m sure (i`m curious to know if this lowers the grade and/or is this classed as going off route? only my 1st trad season) i`ll use anything apart from pulling on gear
chris74 - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10 with s. a

hellboundblr - Lead - 08/Aug/10 with Graeme Flett

ggflett - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Bryan Lewis

roryifinlay - 2nd - 04/Aug/10 with Charlie Boscoe

stevepotter - 2nd - 01/Aug/10 with ken

monkeymark - 2nd dog - 23/Jun/10 with Josh

jtjenkins - Lead - 23/Jun/10 with Mark Kilner

wilkie14c - Lead rpt - 15/Jun/10 with Dave Clarke

monkeymark - TR O/S - 17/May/10

Leo Woodhead - 2nd β - 16/May/10 with Barney Woodhead

Hidden - May/10

Hidden - TR RP - May/10

Got halfway up but got pumped placing the gear and then didn't have the umpf to go for the finger jam move
richorme - Lead dnf - 06/Apr/10 with Bill Watson

JWB - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/10 with Jon Gill

jon_gill1 - 2nd O/S - 05/Mar/10 with john beardmore

Simon Bostock - TR O/S - 05/Mar/10 with John Beardsmore, Jon Gill

Albanian - 2010

Steeve - Lead O/S - Oct/09

Hidden - TR - 24/Sep/09

Kaiser999 - Lead - 12/Aug/09 with Lee Unsworth

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead dog - 05/Aug/09

Plenty protection but tough last move.
ChrisGreen - 2nd rpt - 09/Jul/09 with John W

kevin - Lead - 08/Jul/09 with chris

o g tim - 2nd - Jul/09 with jon vardy

Tough climb.
mozza1234 - 2nd dog - 02/Jun/09 with dti

Diggler - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/09 with craig

peewee2008 - Lead - 31/May/09 with Sam Bainbridge

andrewinglis - 2nd - 31/May/09

Calder - Lead rpt - 23/May/09 with Andy Clow

@ndy - 2nd - 23/May/09 with calder

Cleaned the route after taking a lead fall at the crux.
rockrat - TR dog - 16/May/09 with Tony Morgan

Fell backing off from the crux.
rockrat - Lead dnf - 16/May/09 with Tony Morgan

didnt enjoy the thin layer of moss
carl_123 - 2nd - 13/May/09 with bob

jeffb - 2nd dog - 11/May/09 with graham

Hand slipped off hold at the bottom of the crack (that's my excuse, anyway). :(
Calder - Lead dog - 11/May/09 with jeffb

conboy93 - Lead - May/09

richorme - 2nd dog - 18/Apr/09 with Wendy Potts

kevin - Lead rpt - 24/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/08

wheelo - Lead - 24/Jun/08 with pete

dicky79 - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/08 with Nicola

TonyP - 2nd - 21/May/08 with KENNY

John Postlethwaite - Lead O/S - 18/May/08 with liam

Short and sharp.
Rampikino - Lead - 07/May/08 with Cat

Not a bad start then i bit tougher at the crux
mozza1234 - TR O/S - 29/Apr/08 with Dave Tibbits

Hidden - Lead β - 29/Apr/08

A nice route with enjoyable moves at the crux. I'd say maybe on the high end of VS.
Mr Tea - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/08 with Greg

Fred Sergeant - Lead dog - 24/Apr/08 with Robert Jackson

I don't think this is a VS 4c, it certainly felt harder. Maybe 5a or possibly HVS 4b/c
w4llnut5 - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/08 with Andy Heggenbotham & Stuart Porter

leewam121 - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/08 with Leigh De Vine

kjbix - Lead - 03/Mar/08 with Selma Williams

tomB - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/08 with Tim Griffin

Frodillicus - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/08 with Matt Cross & Mike Anthony

samking251 - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Shad - Lead - 2008

Mark Wilson23 - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/07 with Paul blanchard

adec73 - Lead dnf - 22/Aug/07 with tom benfield

hardoreVdiffBen - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/07 with Owen Pearce

steven - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/07 with Simon Holden

jcurley - 2nd - 23/Jun/07 with Harry

Hidden - Solo rpt - 06/May/07

kevin - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/07 with steve

Not very dogged. Just hung around briefly to check out how to get past the crux. Note to self Big foothold with chalk all over it
rick1fugazi - 2nd RP - 19/Apr/07 with Simon Holden

samking251 - 2007

Davey Ball - 2nd - 2007 with Nick Hepburn

TR 95 LD 95 SO95 TR07
kitch01 - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/06 with terry webb

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/06

Hidden - Lead dnf - 28/Jul/06

Hidden - TR dog - 25/Jul/06

The difficulties are short and well protected.
George Ormerod - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/06 with Roger

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/06

Simon Caldwell - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/06 with Carmen and Rob

lithos - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/06 with Simon C

robman - 2nd O/S - 09/May/06 with Tim

First ever lead outdoors, scary but awesome fun!!!
AMarchant - Lead O/S - 08/Feb/06 with Rob Park

Hidden - 2006

Simon Holden (LCandCC) - Lead - 2006

thegavster - TR O/S - 2006 with Joe O'Keefe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

kingholmesy - 2nd O/S - 2006 with SteveOc

Johann - Lead O/S - 2006

Faffed around for ages below the crux before committing -- but that's normal for me anyway
Lord of Starkness - Lead - Aug/05 with Netsrik

Trobbo - Lead - 26/Mar/05 with mark humphries

Mark A Humphries - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/05 with gary wood

Mark Collins - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/04

ChrisGreen - TR O/S - 21/Jul/03 with John C

eccyamigo - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/03 with martin knight

cjphillips - Lead - May/03

Hidden - Lead - 2003

Neil Conway - Lead O/S - 2001

Trobbo - 2nd - 30/Mar/00 with martin dale

jsw1 - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/99

csw - 22/Aug/99

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jul/99

ellie macpherson - Lead - Sep/95 with Simon Hargreaves, Neil Macpherson, Graeme Jarvis

Mick King - Lead - 27/Jun/91 with Mark Lavender

mattnuttall - Lead - Sep/89 with Alan Holden

Mick King - TR - 28/Jul/89 with Paul "Doc" Lishman

Mick King - TR - 25/Mar/89 with Mark Lester, Paul "Doc" Lishman

Hidden - 1989

Paul Clarke - AltLd - 1972 with FMC

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/70

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
stevorobs3, jonniep, Bobhart85, hairynortherner, greguior, LAW

Voting
Total votes cast 85
hard E10 of 27
E10 of 27
easy E10 of 27
hard HVS0 of 27
HVS14 of 27
easy HVS6 of 27
hard VS7 of 27
VS0 of 27
easy VS0 of 27
hard 5b0 of 25
5b0 of 25
easy 5b0 of 25
hard 5a4 of 25
5a20 of 25
easy 5a1 of 25
hard 4c0 of 25
4c0 of 25
easy 4c0 of 25
3 Stars2 of 33
2 Stars7 of 33
1 Star21 of 33
0 Stars3 of 33
Bag of .....0 of 33
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Style of ascent

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