Rockfax Description
20m. A bold number. Climb Mad Karoo to the break then head up into the shallow groove using a good pocket to make a harrowing reach for the good edge above. Exit rightwards from the ledge up juggy rock. © Rockfax

FA. Dave Cronshaw 1973

Ticklists: Very good routes in the UK, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
JenShelley 31/Aug Lead rpt

My first E1 lead!

JenShelley 27/Aug 2nd O/S
HaveYouSeenDean 08/Aug TR β

Couple of sketchy and committing moves but very fun none the less.

nickmoulden 13/Jun Lead O/S
zoe bidula
efrance24234 13/May Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr 2nd rpt
Laurence Everitt 26/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Climbster 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Bloke on a Rope 24/Aug/14 2nd β
Hidden 07/Aug/14 TR
noemie5438 07/Aug/14 TR O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/14 TR O/S
BigTone 06/Jul/14 Lead rpt
AndyPratt88 18/Jun/14 2nd O/S
JimHolmes69 17/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 30/May/14 TR
Hidden 30/May/14 TR
bantamdave 06/May/14 2nd O/S
JimHolmes69 27/Apr/14 Lead O/S
StephenS 09/Apr/14 2nd

Really nice climb couple of committing and fun moves

StuartCJones 01/Apr/14 Lead
Jacob Forshaw 01/Apr/14 Lead rpt
dave mann ??/2014 Lead O/S
Chris Manasseh 30/Nov/13 TR
Dr Toph 21/Sep/13 Solo O/S

Tempting square hold at crux flexed disturbingly, stick to the pockets!

pete40 11/Sep/13 Lead
pete40 11/Sep/13 Lead
spidey 04/Sep/13 Lead
Phil buckle
wheelo 19/Aug/13 TR
Hidden 08/Aug/13 TR
Simonpeel 06/Aug/13 TR β
bgreen3761 03/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Jacob Forshaw 03/Jun/13 2nd O/S
climbing son 21/May/13 Lead O/S

Major advantage to be tall

gw3285 08/May/13 Lead
stratandrew 08/May/13 2nd
Hidden 07/May/13 TR rpt
Ste_b1978 12/Apr/13 TR
erictant 07/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden ?/Apr/13 TR
Hidden 03/Mar/13 TR β
Hidden 23/Sep/12 -
Russ_Critchley 16/Aug/12 TR O/S

With Graham, very nice climb, just my style

Hidden 28/May/12 TR
Hidden 16/May/12 TR
NeilGriffiths 03/May/12 TR
Dom, Adam
A Crook 03/May/12 TR O/S
Neil Dom and Dog
Hidden 01/May/12 TR
cox 01/May/12 Lead
Hidden 30/Apr/12 TR
Mark Collins 29/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Derek Robinson 29/Mar/12 2nd O/S
bigglesbutcha 29/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Quite bold, but super climbing. Not strenuous, but nice and technical.

rob hunt
gb05 26/Mar/12 Lead RP

Worked a few times on TR due to large decking potential. Nice simple bold climbing. Also becs first E1.

Bec Hurst
Hidden 26/Mar/12 2nd β
slarty 22/Mar/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 21/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 27/Jun/11 Lead β
Hidden 05/Jun/11 Lead
JYates 02/Jun/11 Lead β
Paul Coxon
augustus trout 11/May/11 2nd O/S
Carolyn Mills
Hidden 01/May/11 TR
Hidden 13/Apr/11 2nd
Cragrat Rich 07/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Switched from plan A which was to climb the E2 to the right... This felt a doddle coming from that particular tussle

Hidden 07/Apr/11 Lead O/S
lrandall 07/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Nice straight forward climbing with the added spice of big fall potential. Pretty serious in places and thus E1 is fitting.

bigglesbutcha 24/Mar/11 2nd O/S
ChrisGreen 24/Feb/11 TR rpt
wheelo 24/Feb/11 TR
chris g
norman hilton ?/Feb/11 -
ajclarke 01/Sep/10 2nd
Leo Woodhead 07/Jul/10 Lead O/S

3RD E1! Top section was pretty run out! Nice climb though!

Ianwesterby 07/Jul/10 2nd
Marti999 22/Jun/10 Lead O/S
mike_harper 19/Jun/10 TR O/S

Self belayed

wilkie14c 15/Jun/10 TR rpt
Dave Clarke
Hidden 06/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/10 Lead RP
Simon Rackley ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
tracy baldwin
Trobbo 12/May/10 2nd
tony hulme
Hidden 17/Apr/10 TR O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/10 2nd O/S
mick grim ??/2010 -
Albanian ??/2010 -
Leo Woodhead 27/Sep/09 2nd
trish1968 17/Sep/09 2nd

This was my first E1. Had a couple of slips on the HVS leading up to the E1 which required a tight rope scary stuff :-) Lots of big stretches as I'm only 5 foot 5

Reaver2k 18/Aug/09 Lead O/S

A very bold lead for me, I normally avoid these sorts of things but for some reason bold E1's seem to suit me. Once on the ledge I had a bit of trouble getting off it, but eventually figured to go from slightly further right, the move up to the pocket below the slab is a bit scary concidering you would hit the ledge if you fell. Once at the break I spent a while placing some semi-decent gear and contemplating whether to finish up Mad Karoo or Time, Time didn't look that bad so I went up for a look and found myself stood up on the ledge with the scoop above me without really realising it. It looked oddly easy so I did the moves expecting something to hit me, turns out it really is just 4b moves way way above gear. Don't think you would quite deck but you would certainly get very close. Sometimes feels nice to be that exposed though. Couldn't find anymore gear on the upper bit but it was really juggy so wasn't really worried. Result of a fall from the top? Hitting the floor from 20m, ouch. Soft-touch still I think.

matthewjames 18/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/09 TR O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/09 TR O/S
crossdressingrodney 11/Jul/09 TR O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/09 TR rpt
Hidden 18/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Sam Ash 14/Jun/09 TR β
Dave Docherty
Hidden 12/Jun/09 TR
Hidden 02/Jun/09 TR
peewee2008 31/May/09 TR O/S
Hidden 07/May/09 TR β
conboy93 ?/May/09 Lead
nia 26/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 18/Apr/09 TR O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/09 TR O/S
willoates ??/2009 Lead O/S
leewam121 01/Nov/08 TR
Leigh De Vine
steven 14/Jul/08 Lead β
Simon Holden
kjbix 15/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 15/Jun/08 Lead RP
reubensampson 05/Jun/08 TR
Phil Buckle
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 06/Sep/07 2nd dnf
Butchless1 15/Aug/07 2nd O/S
Tony Little 01/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Cath Sullivan
Hidden ?/Aug/07 Lead RP
Mark Collins 12/Jun/07 TR rpt
Hidden 10/Jun/07 TR β
rick1fugazi 02/Jun/07 2nd O/S
Simon Holden
kevin 19/Apr/07 Lead O/S
samking251 ??/2007 -
bronsonite 16/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Jo Solomon
Hidden ??/2006 -
Simon Holden (LCandCC) ??/2006 Lead RP

lead again 24/03/11 with Tim

John Turner
Johann ??/2006 Lead O/S
Charlie Boscoe
jonnyboy 14/Oct/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Oct/05 2nd
Trobbo 26/Mar/05 2nd
mark humphries
Mark A Humphries 26/Mar/05 Lead O/S
gary wood
kitch01 ??/2005 TR O/S
terry webb
Dave Westby ??/2005 2nd
Tony Hulme
Mark Collins 12/Sep/04 Lead O/S
frazzle11 ?/Aug/04 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2003 2nd O/S
Neil Conway ??/2001 2nd O/S
Trobbo 30/Mar/00 2nd
martin dale
Jamie B ?/Jun/99 2nd
Nik Birkby
slarty 02/May/99 TR dog

Very smooth small features on top slab

richorme 13/Jun/94 TR O/S
Mick King 18/Jul/93 Solo
Hidden 09/Apr/92 Lead
Hidden 12/Aug/91 Lead
John Southworth ?/Jul/91 Solo
Mick King 27/Jun/91 TR
Mark Lavender
whispering nic 22/May/91 Lead
Hidden 24/Apr/91 2nd
Hidden ??/1989 -
goi.ashmore 26/Jul/88 Solo β
BigHairyIan 15/Jun/88 2nd O/S
Mike Buckley (Little Mike)
Hidden 02/Jul/86 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1972 AltLd
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 31
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 28
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set