An exciting and sustained route starting up the crack just left of Heart of Stone before crimping left to the big flake then continuing direct. Climb the thin crack immediately left of Heart of Stone to place a high runner where obvious edges lead left. Follow these out to the flake (Friends) where more hard moves gain an obvious line of pockets and, hopefully, the top. Note: Heavily cleaned on a top rope prior to the first ascent, the section by the flake is now solid. The remainder of the rock is good.

coula1 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S

The holds are all solid but I didn't trust the cams in the flake. Placed a runner above the niche on Heart of Stone to prevent decking out. Cool route.

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