The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.
Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.
Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:
Descents:
Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.
FA. M.Davies (solo) 21/May/2011.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Lykul | 15 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Very much an adventure, not necessarily one I would recommend though! Safe enough up to the belay tree halfway, after that it is a loose, wandering chossfest with every other hold coming loose, keeps the belayer on their toes dodging the shower of loose rocks. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Very much an adventure, not necessarily one I would recommend though! Safe enough up to the belay tree halfway, after that it is a loose, wandering chossfest with every other hold coming loose, keeps the belayer on their toes dodging the shower of loose rocks. |
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wilsers | 12 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Belay trees are either a long way back through bramble or Ash trees off to one side. There is Ash die back in the quarry too. Take care. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Belay trees are either a long way back through bramble or Ash trees off to one side. There is Ash die back in the quarry too. Take care. |
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