UKC

Restricted Access

The landowner has recently informed the BMC and climbers on site that he does not allow climbing in the quarry. Several unsucessful attempts have been made meet with the landowner, but no response has been forthcoming so far. Anyone climbing the the quarry may asked to leave - if this happens, please do so politely.

21m. An excellent route for practising your twin rope skills and for beginners new to sport. Although not essential, twins are recommended as rope drag will be an issue.

Access to the belay point is via black static line that climbs up a steep incline near "Five frogs and a log". This leads to the foot of Upper Red Dust Wall. Use the first Belay anchor station at the top of the static line. Start by striking out a 45 degrees up to your right to the first clip. Follow the bolts up to a large ledge and round the corner to the right. There are two route climbing the wall now in frount of you. Facing this wall your belayer will be down to your left below you. Good communication is essential from here as you'll be out of eye shot from now on. Climb the large deep crack that follows right most route on the ledge to the absail station below a small overhang attached to a lighter patch of rock.

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High 5a
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