The long groove with a severely undercut base has a number of options to access it. 1) 6c/A1 5c, 30m. A powerful bouldery start gains a thread from where the groove up on the right can be gained more easily (6c). Alternatively - aid the start using the thread and then free climb to the groove and up it to a tree belay (5c). The base of the groove can also be gained using The Talons Start, 6a - which follows Central Wall to its initial peg and then step down before traversing left to gain the groove. 2) 5a, 10m. Traverse left to ledges. 3) 5b, 22m. From the upper ledge move right and climb a thin crack and pockets to the top. © ROCKFAX
UKC Logbook Description
Aid used to start at this grade.