UKC

Rockfax Description
The long groove with a severely undercut base has a number of options to access it.
1) 6c or 5c/A1, 30m. A powerful bouldery start gains a thread from where the groove up on the right can be gained more easily (6c). Alternatively - aid the start using the thread and then free climb to the groove then follow it to a tree belay (5c). The base of the groove can also be gained using The Talons Start, 6a - which follows Central Wall to its initial peg - then step down before traversing left to gain the groove.
2) 5a, 10m. Traverse left to ledges.
3) 5b, 22m. From the upper ledge move right and climb a thin crack and pockets to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Aid used to start at this grade.

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Kilnsey

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Northern Rock Cover
Northern Rock (2022)
Wired Guides
By YMC, NMC, Red Rose Rock, CMC
Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire Cover
Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire (2015)
Rockfax
By Mark Glaister
Guidebook correction for this climb
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High E3
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High E2
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Low E2
High E1
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High 5b
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest
A Question of Balance

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Simon's Seat)

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