47m, 2 pitches.
1st Pitch (6c): Follow the rappel approach as for Anxiety State Crisis. From the first anchor (already 40 meters off the deck) follow the first pitch of Anxiety State Crisis, at half height instead of following the groove as for ASC, take a right into a traverse. From here traverse the hanging block round the stalactite to reach the anchor of the second Pitch. Hasn't seen too many ascents to date, possible grade of 6c+
2nd Pitch (6b+): Continue Traversing rightwards following the line of bolts, juggy if a little pumpy climbing leads to the anchor near Gatekeeper buttress. Several decent options are possible, either rappel to the anchor of Space Manoeuvres, then make a second rappel to the cave floor, or swing out and scramble out the gatekeeper or various other dodgy exits. Rappelling is the recommended way.
2nd Pitch (6b+): Continue Traversing rightwards following the line of bolts, juggy if a little pumpy climbing leads to the anchor near Gatekeeper buttress. Several decent options are possible, either rappel to the anchor of Space Manoeuvres, then make a second rappel to the cave floor, or swing out and scramble out the gatekeeper or various other dodgy exits. Rappelling is the recommended way.
Francis Haden and Donna Kwok 04/Feb/2011.
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Route of Interest
The Tree Surgeon
Grade: 6c ***
(Crazy Horse Buttress)