UKC

Restricted Access

The crag is south facing for the most part and quick drying, especially with a bit of sea breeze. However, it's worth bearing in mind that traversing along the platform at the base of the crag (needed to get to most routes) can be exciting in anything other than calm seas. The traverse is generally accessible 3 hours either side of high tide for most of the crag and the base of Terrier's Tooth and Bishop's Buttress for slightly longer, although these times are significantly reduced during neap tides. During high tides or when big seas are running, it is also possible to abseil in to the upper pitches of several routes.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to all routes on Bishop's Buttress - from Lacertion to The Mitre inclusive (route 82, page 153 to route 14, page 159 in the 2017 Climber's Club guidebook).

Routes within Zawn Rinny (Consolation Climb to Shark Alley) are also restricted during the same period, but the Zawn Rinny descent for the western end of Chair Ladder is fine to use. 

59m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Beautiful climbing and positions mark out this route as one of West Penwith's most sought-after VSs. The route can be climbed at high tide during calm seas by making a straightforward abseil approach down East Gully and belaying on high ledges at the start of the first pitch. Start on a good ledge at a crack in the left wall of East Gully, around 10m up from the bottom of the crag.
1) 4a, 14m. Climb the crack to a belay ledge on the left. The ledge is just below where the crack thins.
2) 4c, 20m. Climb the thin crack system with difficulty, which soon eases, and continue up the crack to a large mushroom shaped blob. Use the blob to move right into a short corner and follow it to a stance on a good ledge.
3) 4c, 12m. Take the steep crack above, passing the last bulging section with difficulty. Move left to a stance and belay on a long ledge.
4) 4a, 13m. Move right and up behind a large perched block and follow cracks up a wall to the top of the buttress. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Kernow , Heather's Multipitch Climbs , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , South West VDiff-HVS , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , #RadTradGirl UK HS/VS climbs Easter 2017 , Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Pre-MIA Wishlist , South West Classic VS's , Definitive *** West Cornwall , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , 2020/21 Trips , Learning to Trad Climb: Cornwall , Cornwall 2021 , Cornwall , Top 25 UKC South West VS/HVS , Kernow , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Cornwall - October 2023 , Llidberis South West Tour

Feedback

User Date Notes
Salvo1 26 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: I led 1st pitch & Andy B led the rest. I had a moment on the hanging belay. (Bloody head). Great climb living up to its expectations. Really nice climbing with varied moves.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I led 1st pitch & Andy B led the rest. I had a moment on the hanging belay. (Bloody head). Great climb living up to its expectations. Really nice climbing with varied moves.
slowmotion 15 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax description made more sense to me than CC guide
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax description made more sense to me than CC guide
jfms 23 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Descent requires some down-climbing, which shouldn't be a problem for a VS leader but may be uncomfortable for a novice VS seconder.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Descent requires some down-climbing, which shouldn't be a problem for a VS leader but may be uncomfortable for a novice VS seconder.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 163
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 159
Votes cast 157
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Right Angle Variation

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Gurnard's Head)

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