3 pitches.
Not another great 5.7... This climb takes the major right-facing corner of the east face then traverses up and left to meet Bear's Reach at the end of pitch 2 on the "Once a Bushy" Ledge. One for confident 5.7 leaders.
The first pitch is straight-forward 5.6 stemming with the odd jam and good gear, ending in a large ledge. Pitch two is the meat of the route, requiring some confidence in route-finding. Move left around from the ledge, up into a hand crack bearing slightly right, then break out left and up to a flake system. Two options from here: A tricky entry move leads to the upper flakes and a quick traverse over to the belay ledge, or a "wild/airy/exposed" traverse leads directly over to the corners and overlaps in the middle of the second pitch of Bear's Reach. Both options may have 5.7, but are pretty continuously 5.6 in any case.
The first pitch is straight-forward 5.6 stemming with the odd jam and good gear, ending in a large ledge. Pitch two is the meat of the route, requiring some confidence in route-finding. Move left around from the ledge, up into a hand crack bearing slightly right, then break out left and up to a flake system. Two options from here: A tricky entry move leads to the upper flakes and a quick traverse over to the belay ledge, or a "wild/airy/exposed" traverse leads directly over to the corners and overlaps in the middle of the second pitch of Bear's Reach. Both options may have 5.7, but are pretty continuously 5.6 in any case.
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Route of Interest
Bear's Reach
Grade: 5.7 ***
(Lover's Leap)