The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.
Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.
Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:
Descents:
Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.
FA. M.S.Davies (solo) 2011.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Steve Neads | 5 Oct, 2023 |
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βeta: Take care to keep away from right hand edge as you approach the second overlap. One of our party knocked off a microwave sized block - fortunately without any bad consequences. Route was otherwise pleasant! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Take care to keep away from right hand edge as you approach the second overlap. One of our party knocked off a microwave sized block - fortunately without any bad consequences. Route was otherwise pleasant! |
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JimOakleyAdventures | 6 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: An okay route with knowledge of ‘risks’ in final 3m. Careful foot placements required as you reach the top. Anchor is hidden half left 3m under bush. Manoeuvre double rope knot so it’s over the lip before you descend to aid pulling the rope. | ||
Show beta
βeta: An okay route with knowledge of ‘risks’ in final 3m. Careful foot placements required as you reach the top. Anchor is hidden half left 3m under bush. Manoeuvre double rope knot so it’s over the lip before you descend to aid pulling the rope. |
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WoolyAdventure | 21 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: CARE NEEDED: A lot of loose rock throughout the route but especially sketchy at the top. Pulling the rope through dislodged a breeze block sized rock from somewhere out of sight on the route which narrowly missed my second! Also could hear rock fall on the routes to the right of this during my climb, there was no one on or above the routes at the time so take care in the area. As mentioned above; the belay tree is in a bramble bush which you have to crawl through. A couple more stakes at this end of the crag would be great. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: CARE NEEDED: A lot of loose rock throughout the route but especially sketchy at the top. Pulling the rope through dislodged a breeze block sized rock from somewhere out of sight on the route which narrowly missed my second! Also could hear rock fall on the routes to the right of this during my climb, there was no one on or above the routes at the time so take care in the area. As mentioned above; the belay tree is in a bramble bush which you have to crawl through. A couple more stakes at this end of the crag would be great. |
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Felix Ottey | 19 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: The last few meters are in a very dangerous state. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The last few meters are in a very dangerous state. |
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towkneebe | 14 Jun, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: The tree, which is the primary belay point, is hard to reach in Summer. I had to crawl through brambles to get to it! Also the route is quite loose in places, and care is required to not send rocks hurtling down. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The tree, which is the primary belay point, is hard to reach in Summer. I had to crawl through brambles to get to it! Also the route is quite loose in places, and care is required to not send rocks hurtling down. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Fairy Cave Quarry)