An old boy I met in the quarry led this route and asked if I wanted to second it so I did. It's not in any guide book but is a very nice climb in its own right so I've added it. Please forgive/correct me if this is already a known route with another name. Start up S Crack (3m) then step out right with a long reach to the ledge with pockets for cams. Continue up the wall direct between S Climb and Fairy Wall on crimps. Small wires out right protect final moves. Estimated HVS 5a/5b. The new Rockfax guide shows Fairy wall going further right to finish at the top of fairy steps. This goes up the middle without using S Crack. If it is just Fary Wall without the 5c mantal it's still a worth while pitch and a more balanced route with consistant technicality.