Rockfax Description
Space-walking stuff on its final pitch and with plenty of interesting climbing throughout. Quite tough at the grade. Start above the 'Suicide Pool' at a deep, narrowing chimney.
1) 4b, 24m. Bridge up the chimney and where it narrows move out onto its left rib. This point can also be gained by climbing the corner-crack right of the chimney to a ledge and then moving left. Move up and then step right to a ledge on the main buttress. Climb to a small stance at the left end of the roof that comes in from the right. This pitch can be split above the initial chimney.
2) 4a, 17m. Traverse rightwards above the lip of the overhang and follow cracks up the centre of the wall in a fantastic position until a leftward line can be followed to a big ledge and belay blocks.
3) 4b,11m. The line of steep thin cracks above the centre of the ledge provides an excellent but short lived finish. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, West Country Climbs, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK., HS Climbs to do in Summer 2014, Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
Steveb27 31/Aug AltLd
Hidden 31/Aug AltLd
Sarah Roscoe 07/Aug 2nd
Matt Harmon 07/Aug Lead O/S

led all pitches in 2 pitches- lovely climb, climbed right side of crack and stepped across on P1, would've taken a while to commit but tide was coming in so had to be quick. top two pitches as the sun was setting was awesome

Wevcore 02/Aug Lead O/S
Jen Gilbert, Rich
tom s g 21/Jul Lead O/S
Fred Graham
AJM 20/Jun AltLd O/S

Via the indirect approach as the chimney was wet and covered in brown slime. A very misty day.

David Barlow, Ali Morris
Marti999 17/May Lead O/S
neilstubbs 12/Apr AltLd rpt

Me P1 (climbed up right of the chimney which was soaking)and P3, Stef got a bit lost on P2...

Stefan Parkin
JenDurden 04/Apr AltLd O/S
Simon Caldwell 02/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

In 4 pitches, I led 1 and 3. Made a complete fist of the first pitch, couldn't work out how on earth it could be bridged as per the guidebook, nor to back-and-foot as recommended by a passing climber, so thrutched it instead, slithering back down a few times while I worked it out, I still have the scars 2 weeks later. 3rd pitch had nice exposure but disappointingly easy. Last pitch was quite hard, more Rockfax's 4b than the CC's 4a. Overall, a quality route though maybe a bit disjointed, not quite the uber-classic I was expecting.

Hidden 02/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
masa-alpin 21/Aug/14 Lead O/S

The wide P1 has a good character! The line of the last short pitch above the ledge described in the definitive guidebook was dirty, being covered with lichen, so I followed the top-out of Diocese (4c?), which was the crux of the route.

Loz K
Hidden 27/Jul/14 2nd
wnlwy 27/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 23/Jul/14 AltLd
BLodge 17/Jun/14 AltLd
steveprice.exmouth 13/Jun/14 AltLd rpt

led 1 and 3

Graham Mead
OliverRoss 13/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant climb with 'belay heaven' for the second anchor. 1st pitch is incredible if you enjoy chimneys. I imagine it's almost always wet.

Dan Biggin, Tom Wilding-Steele
twildingsteele 13/Jun/14 2nd
StaffsAndy 18/May/14 AltLd
Hamish777 17/May/14 AltLd O/S

Andrea P1, I lead P2 and P3. This was my first attempt at chimney, having watched Andrea glide up it I thought I had the technique nailed. Needles to say when I got on it I forgot everything I had seen. Instead I used the "Ass-wriggle" method of steadily moving one buttock up higher than the other, the crazy thing is it worked! This was a lovely climb, I really enjoyed it.

andrea83 17/May/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 which was great and not really wet. Can't imagine it would be nice on a winters day or even a cold day. Lovely climb. Hamish lead P2 and P3.

LovelyMrTom 19/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Paul lead pitch 1, I lead middle bit, Paul lead final pitch.

Paul Baxter 19/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and final pitch. Struggled in the initial chimney, but got it in the end. After that everything felt easy.

RichardN 18/Apr/14 AltLd

Stopped first pitch early after ending up a long way above my gear and being scared. Alan led remained of first pitch to correct ledge then ran pitches 2 and 3 into one. Pitch one: Not too hard climbing but bold moves and hard to protect Pitch two: good climbing, good gear Pitch three: Reasonable to protect, hard climbing for the grade. Overall definitely at the top of the grade.

daprince ??/2014 -
Alfie Conn ??/2014 AltLd
Ribbit 03/Dec/13 Lead
whiteexplorer 03/Dec/13 2nd O/S

good climb that has a bit of everything

Dave Piper
Tom Last 14/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

Chester led main pitch. Skipped 1st pitch due to massive seas. Great climb.

crobinson 14/Nov/13 AltLd

Brilliant climb, stunning setting above stormy seas with Tom Last.

Tom last
arandall 11/Oct/13 2nd O/S

Brilliant climb, also i soloed the first two pitches afterwards as Dom didn't know he had to take the gear out

JoeCoxson 11/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Lead the route in 2 pitches no worries.

Helen Boothman 18/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Steve Lenartowicz 11/Jul/13 Lead
westong ??/2013 -
janegallwey ??/2013 Lead
Hidden 29/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Mayo 06/Sep/12 Lead
Jack.H.92 26/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
MinHazeldine 15/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
jezb1 04/Jun/12 AltLd

So busy on the BH all the good routes were busy ....

The Ivanator 04/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

I led the first pitch then we escaped off left to avoid congestion.

Geoffers 26/May/12 Lead O/S
Headjamm 26/May/12 2nd O/S
mullermn 06/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Me p1&3, Kylie p2&4. P1 is a flared salty narrowing crack. Not really hard but not particularly welcoming. P2&3 nice easy climbing on good holds. P4 is surprisingly hard for the grade, Kylie nearly fell off on lead.

Hidden 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Egons Issy 06/Apr/12 AltLd
Slick 06/Apr/12 AltLd
Kylie 06/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 2 and 4. Really enjoyed the route, the chimney was fun! Came very close to slipping off near the top - first time that's happened!

JonG ??/2012 -
Hidden 18/Aug/11 Lead O/S
elbeanio 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
milkyjoe 14/Aug/11 AltLd

led 2nd pitch, for which we did the more direct pitch from diocese.

Country_Boy 26/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Stu Bradbury
philmcf ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
neilstubbs ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

I led p1&3

Stefan Parkin
highfivekrissy 02/Jun/11 AltLd
peter myers ?/Jun/11 AltLd

missed out the horrible looking chimney at the start!

Hidden 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Different Steve 22/Apr/11 Lead rpt

bypassed minging initial chimney!

jeffb 19/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Calder 19/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
dickypips 18/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Roy Thomas
jakenichol 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S

very pleasant, easy climbing. very atmospheric second pitch above the roof : )

haylow 03/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Mar/11 AltLd
Hidden 25/Oct/10 AltLd
nickstephens 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
MH123 29/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
PastyBoy84 08/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Ben Mayo
mr phil morton 17/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 27/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 27/Jun/10 2nd
Em66 13/Jun/10 AltLd
Matt, Mat
1651SP 30/May/10 AltLd O/S
Mark van vleit
cham749 28/May/10 AltLd O/S

Lost No. 8 nut on first pitch, in the chimney. Back and footed up the chimney.

Ollie Warren, Stan Norrie
Hidden ?/May/10 AltLd
rd20 04/Apr/10 AltLd dnf

Wet and slimey, neither J nor I could climb chimney

kleinej 04/Apr/10 AltLd dnf

Abbed in which was a bad idea as it was still wet and slippery and neither Robert nor I could find a way to bridge up the chimney. Abandoned.

nickdonohue ?/Feb/10 Lead
Simon Reynolds
Hidden ??/2010 -
Homes ??/2010 AltLd
Sam A
ushi ??/2010 -
erica 25/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

Omitted first pitch. Led 3rd pitch

John Brayshaw 25/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

missed pitch 1 due to tides

Hidden 20/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
mbambi ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Roger Cruse 09/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Kris & Buffy
Hidden 03/Jun/09 Lead
Blisco 24/May/09 Lead rpt

Dave led p2.

Dave Milner
garywong 12/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Led 1st and 2nd pitches. Patrick did a massive traverse across the buttress ending up on the belay stance of The Mitre, but traversed back on route and finished up Diocese. Amazing, varied climb; probably better than the proper route!

Rob84 24/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Rich Patterson
Hidden ?/Aug/08 2nd
Hidden 28/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
JonHarvey 28/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Blisco 24/May/08 AltLd O/S

Led p2 and p4, which I think was actually the last pitch of Diocese.

manwithacam 24/May/08 AltLd

Great route. Climbed in wet, couldnt find much gear on bottom chimney and that fell out

Dave G
flytzen 12/May/08 AltLd O/S

Sean lead the first and last pitch. I lead the middle pitch, which is very easy - more like diff really. Beautiful exposure on the top pitch with 150+ feet of air below your feet on plentiful, if slightly small, holds.

Sean Worthington
existing debt 04/Apr/08 -
Iain a
Hidden 25/Mar/08 AltLd
Mark Kemball 12/Feb/08 2nd
Mark Lewis
Dilwat 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S

p1-4 may have finished on last pitch of Diocese.

Hidden 15/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
Mark D 07/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Dave Duggan
bpmclimb 30/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
tomtherockboy ?/Jun/07 AltLd RP
Dave Ross, Dave Prady
jon clayton ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/07 AltLd
Jon_Warner 17/Apr/07 2nd O/S

Found the start quite hard for the grade. Brilliant route.

Mark Glaister
Hidden 17/Apr/07 2nd O/S
camillaclifford 08/Apr/07 2nd
mrtom 08/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Awesome climb!

pezzerrr 03/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Gav J 28/Aug/06 Lead

Best climb of the weekend - very glad to escape that chimney before the disco legs set in! Top pitch definitely strenuous if you stop for photos

Kate & Liz
mooseloose 13/Aug/06 AltLd rpt

Flannel/towel required for the bridging pitch only (1)

featuresforfeet 04/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
Mike Gee ?/Aug/06 2nd O/S
Jonathon Morton
victim of mathematics 31/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
crossdressingrodney 31/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

High tide start.

Hidden 31/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/06 Lead O/S
stuart100 28/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Claire Graham, Lee Mcinnes.
Kyuzo ?/Jun/06 AltLd
Hal Watts
hal ?/Jun/06 -
GrahamHP 31/May/06 AltLd O/S

bridging start and amazing exposure on pitch 3

Tony Walentowicz
Nigel Coe 29/May/06 AltLd
Steve Berry, Norman Wright
Hidden 13/May/06 Lead
Hidden 18/Jun/05 AltLd β
Si dH 16/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
Alex Gaastra
Hidden 01/May/05 AltLd
Hidden 09/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/04 2nd
Hidden 30/May/04 2nd
Norman_P_W 30/May/04 Lead
Paz ?/Feb/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Hidden 25/Aug/03 AltLd
Hidden 03/Aug/03 AltLd
Antoine1 17/Mar/03 AltLd
Andy Platell
Antoine1 17/Mar/03 AltLd
Andy Platell
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd O/S
Scotsken ??/2003 -
Rob Pitt ??/2003 Lead O/S
DerwentDiluted ?/Aug/02 AltLd
Laurie Smith
nickdonohue ?/May/02 Lead

hard to start

Kath Donohue
Red Leader ?/Sep/01 AltLd O/S

One of my all time favourites.

Hidden 13/Aug/01 AltLd
Hidden 18/Jul/01 AltLd
BALD EAGLE 09/Jun/01 AltLd
Duncan Bender
Hidden 07/May/01 Lead O/S
oscaig ?/Sep/00 AltLd O/S
Steve Reeves
Hidden 29/Aug/00 2nd rpt
Hidden 03/Aug/00 -
tapley 05/Jul/00 Lead
Simon Tapley, Alison Tapley
Steveb27 ??/2000 AltLd
Boxy 28/Aug/99 AltLd
Jon H
Hidden 01/May/99 AltLd
colin milton 15/Mar/99 AltLd

variation start

eric milton
andy_pemberton ??/1999 -

no details

PaulTanton 13/Aug/98 Lead O/S
Rog Wilko ?/Aug/98 AltLd

Why only **?

Debbie Wilkinson
stokienomad ?/Jul/98 Lead O/S

With Dave Mountford.

timreynolds 02/May/98 Lead
Paul Bastiaiens
Raggar 08/Mar/97 AltLd
Andy J
belay bunny turned bad ??/1997 Lead
Hidden 09/Sep/96 AltLd O/S
Budge ?/Aug/95 AltLd O/S
Adrian Fox
michael burrows 27/Jul/95 Solo
colin milton 18/Mar/95 AltLd

not p1

eric milton
TobyA ?/Sep/94 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/94 Lead O/S
timreynolds 28/May/94 Lead
jim_randell 09/May/94 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench 14/Nov/92 Lead O/S
Adrian Draper
RichardMc 13/Apr/90 AltLd
Angel Vila
alan moore ??/1990 -
Hidden ?/Aug/89 Lead O/S
Iain Thow 06/Apr/88 AltLd

Led 3&4

Steve Ball
Hidden 10/May/87 Lead O/S
Richard Weller 25/May/85 Solo
malc 09/Apr/84 2nd
ill_bill ?/Apr/83 AltLd
Gordon Stainforth 09/Apr/82 AltLd
Mike Harber
Richard Weller ?/Apr/82 AltLd
Richard White
DDDD ??/1982 -
rogerskews 10/Aug/80 AltLd

Halfway up pitch 1 Keith leading shouted "there's a big one coming!", I looked seawards and was immediately swept away underwater - fortunately belayed I surfaced in a slot and continued my duties as my noble leader continued upwards !

Keith Jenkins
jmr 26/May/80 AltLd
Bob Howard
Chris Terrey ?/May/80 Lead
John Gray
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1978 Lead
Dave Musgrove 05/Jun/77 AltLd
RichardMc 08/Apr/77 AltLd
Dave Langmead
Simon cook ?/May/76 -
Bolt Phobia 05/Apr/76 AltLd
John Broadwell
Hidden ??/1976 -
Nigel Bond 11/Apr/74 Lead
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 25
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set