Flannel Avenue** HS 4b
[Flannel Avenue, 4 kb]Space-walking stuff on its final pitch and with plenty of interesting climbing throughout. Quite tough at the grade. Start above the 'Suicide Pool' at a deep, narrowing chimney.. 1) 4b, 24m. Bridge up the chimney and where it narrows move out onto its left rib. This point can also be gained by climbing the corner-crack right of the chimney to a ledge and then moving left. Move up and then step right to a ledge on the main buttress. Climb to a small stance at the left end of the roof that comes in from the right. This pitch can be split above the initial chimney.. 2) 4a, 17m. Traverse rightwards above the lip of the overhang and follow cracks up the centre of the wall in a fantastic position until a leftward line can be followed to a big ledge and belay blocks.. 3) 4b 11m. The line of steep thin cracks above the centre of the ledge provides an excellent but short lived finish. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, West Country Climbs, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK., HS Climbs to do in Summer 2014, Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe.

Photo: Flannel Avenue © Mike Gee
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 186 logbooks, and on 26 wishlists.

In 4 pitches, I led 1 and 3. Made a complete fist of the first pitch, couldn't work out how on earth it could be bridged as per the guidebook, nor to back-and-foot as recommended by a passing climber, so thrutched it instead, slithering back down a few times while I worked it out, I still have the scars 2 weeks later. 3rd pitch had nice exposure but disappointingly easy. Last pitch was quite hard, more Rockfax's 4b than the CC's 4a. Overall, a quality route though maybe a bit disjointed, not quite the uber-classic I was expecting.
Simon Caldwell - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/14 with Carmen

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/14

The wide P1 has a good character! The line of the last short pitch above the ledge described in the definitive guidebook was dirty, being covered with lichen, so I followed the top-out of Diocese (4c?), which was the crux of the route.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/14 with Loz K

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Jul/14

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jul/14

led 1 and 3
steveprice.exmouth - AltLd rpt - 13/Jun/14 with Graham Mead

Brilliant climb with 'belay heaven' for the second anchor. 1st pitch is incredible if you enjoy chimneys. I imagine it's almost always wet.
OliverRoss - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/14 with Dan Biggin, Tom Wilding-Steele

twildingsteele - 2nd - 13/Jun/14

StaffsAndy - AltLd - 18/May/14

Andrea P1, I lead P2 and P3. This was my first attempt at chimney, having watched Andrea glide up it I thought I had the technique nailed. Needles to say when I got on it I forgot everything I had seen. Instead I used the "Ass-wriggle" method of steadily moving one buttock up higher than the other, the crazy thing is it worked! This was a lovely climb, I really enjoyed it.
Hamish777 - AltLd O/S - 17/May/14 with Andrea

Lead P1 which was great and not really wet. Can't imagine it would be nice on a winters day or even a cold day. Lovely climb. Hamish lead P2 and P3.
andrea83 - AltLd O/S - 17/May/14 with Hamish

Paul lead pitch 1, I lead middle bit, Paul lead final pitch.
LovelyMrTom - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Paul Baxter

Led P1 and final pitch. Struggled in the initial chimney, but got it in the end. After that everything felt easy.
Paul Baxter - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/14

Stopped first pitch early after ending up a long way above my gear and being scared. Alan led remained of first pitch to correct ledge then ran pitches 2 and 3 into one. Pitch one: Not too hard climbing but bold moves and hard to protect Pitch two: good climbing, good gear Pitch three: Reasonable to protect, hard climbing for the grade. Overall definitely at the top of the grade.
RichardN - AltLd - 18/Apr/14

daprince - 2014

Alfie Conn - AltLd - 2014

Ribbit - Lead - 03/Dec/13 with Tom

good climb that has a bit of everything
whiteexplorer - 2nd O/S - 03/Dec/13 with Dave Piper

Chester led main pitch. Skipped 1st pitch due to massive seas. Great climb.
Tom Last - AltLd O/S - 14/Nov/13 with Chester

Brilliant climb, stunning setting above stormy seas with Tom Last.
crobinson - AltLd - 14/Nov/13 with Tom last

Brilliant climb, also i soloed the first two pitches afterwards as Dom didn't know he had to take the gear out
arandall - 2nd O/S - 11/Oct/13 with Dom, Joe Coxson

Lead the route in 2 pitches no worries.
JoeCoxson - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/13 with Dom Taylor, Alex Randall

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/13

Steve Lenartowicz - Lead - 11/Jul/13 with Clare

westong - 2013

janegallwey - Lead - 2013

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/12

Mayo - Lead - 06/Sep/12

Jack.H.92 - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/12

MinHazeldine - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/12

So busy on the BH all the good routes were busy ....
jezb1 - AltLd - 04/Jun/12

I led the first pitch then we escaped off left to avoid congestion.
The Ivanator - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Jez

Geoffers - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Lauren

Headjamm - 2nd O/S - 26/May/12 with Geoffers

Me p1&3, Kylie p2&4. P1 is a flared salty narrowing crack. Not really hard but not particularly welcoming. P2&3 nice easy climbing on good holds. P4 is surprisingly hard for the grade, Kylie nearly fell off on lead.
mullermn - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/12 with Kylie Richards

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/12

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Apr/12

Slick - AltLd - 06/Apr/12 with Isabel Evans

Lead pitches 2 and 4. Really enjoyed the route, the chimney was fun! Came very close to slipping off near the top - first time that's happened!
Kylie - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/12 with mullermn

JonG - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/11

elbeanio - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11

led 2nd pitch, for which we did the more direct pitch from diocese.
milkyjoe - AltLd - 14/Aug/11 with andy

Country_Boy - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/11 with Stu Bradbury

philmcf - Lead O/S - Jul/11

I led p1&3
neilstubbs - AltLd O/S - Jul/11 with Stefan Parkin

highfivekrissy - AltLd - 02/Jun/11 with Pete Myers

missed out the horrible looking chimney at the start!
peter myers - AltLd - Jun/11 with Krissy Humble

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11

bypassed minging initial chimney!
Different Steve - Lead rpt - 22/Apr/11 with Clare

jeffb - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/11 with Calder

Calder - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/11 with jeffb

dickypips - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/11 with Roy Thomas

very pleasant, easy climbing. very atmospheric second pitch above the roof : )
jakenichol - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/11

haylow - 2nd - 03/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Mar/11

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Oct/10

nickstephens - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Nancy Jones

MH123 - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Mike Waller

PastyBoy84 - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Ben Mayo

mr phil morton - 2nd - 17/Jul/10

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Jun/10

Em66 - AltLd - 13/Jun/10 with Matt, Mat

1651SP - AltLd O/S - 30/May/10 with Mark van vleit

Lost No. 8 nut on first pitch, in the chimney. Back and footed up the chimney.
cham749 - AltLd O/S - 28/May/10 with Ollie Warren, Stan Norrie

Hidden - AltLd - May/10

Wet and slimey, neither J nor I could climb chimney
rd20 - AltLd dnf - 04/Apr/10 with Phil G, Jason

Abbed in which was a bad idea as it was still wet and slippery and neither Robert nor I could find a way to bridge up the chimney. Abandoned.
kleinej - AltLd dnf - 04/Apr/10 with Phil G, Robert

nickdonohue - Lead - Feb/10 with Simon Reynolds

Hidden - 2010

Homes - AltLd - 2010 with Sam A

ushi - 2010

Omitted first pitch. Led 3rd pitch
erica - AltLd O/S - 25/Oct/09 with John

missed pitch 1 due to tides
John Brayshaw - AltLd O/S - 25/Oct/09 with Erica

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/09

mbambi - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with nic

Roger Cruse - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/09 with Kris & Buffy

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jun/09

Dave led p2.
Blisco - Lead rpt - 24/May/09 with Dave Milner

Led 1st and 2nd pitches. Patrick did a massive traverse across the buttress ending up on the belay stance of The Mitre, but traversed back on route and finished up Diocese. Amazing, varied climb; probably better than the proper route!
garywong - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/09 with Patrick Goodwin

Rob84 - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/08 with Rich Patterson

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/08

JonHarvey - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/08 with Jay Jackson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jun/08

Led p2 and p4, which I think was actually the last pitch of Diocese.
Blisco - AltLd O/S - 24/May/08 with Dan Metcalfe

Great route. Climbed in wet, couldnt find much gear on bottom chimney and that fell out
manwithacam - AltLd - 24/May/08 with Dave G

Sean lead the first and last pitch. I lead the middle pitch, which is very easy - more like diff really. Beautiful exposure on the top pitch with 150+ feet of air below your feet on plentiful, if slightly small, holds.
flytzen - AltLd O/S - 12/May/08 with Sean Worthington

existing debt - 04/Apr/08 with Iain a

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Mar/08

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 12/Feb/08 with Mark Lewis

p1-4 may have finished on last pitch of Diocese.
Dilwat - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/07 with Bart

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/07

Mark D - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/07 with Dave Duggan

bpmclimb - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/07 with Clare

tomtherockboy - AltLd RP - Jun/07 with Dave Ross, Dave Prady

jon clayton - Lead O/S - Jun/07 with cherry

Hidden - AltLd - 05/May/07

Found the start quite hard for the grade. Brilliant route.
Jon_Warner - 2nd O/S - 17/Apr/07 with Mark Glaister

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Apr/07

camillaclifford - 2nd - 08/Apr/07 with mrtom

Awesome climb!
mrtom - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/07 with Camilla Clifford

pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/07

Best climb of the weekend - very glad to escape that chimney before the disco legs set in! Top pitch definitely strenuous if you stop for photos
Gav J - Lead - 28/Aug/06 with Kate & Liz

Flannel/towel required for the bridging pitch only (1)
mooseloose - AltLd rpt - 13/Aug/06 with Robo

featuresforfeet - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/06 with Liz

Mike Gee - 2nd O/S - Aug/06 with Jonathon Morton

victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/06 with crossdressingrodney

High tide start.
crossdressingrodney - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/06 with alex malins, victim of mathematics

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/06

stuart100 - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/06 with Claire Graham, Lee Mcinnes.

Kyuzo - AltLd - Jun/06 with Hal Watts

hal - Jun/06

bridging start and amazing exposure on pitch 3
GrahamHP - AltLd O/S - 31/May/06 with Tony Walentowicz

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 29/May/06 with Steve Berry, Norman Wright

Hidden - Lead - 13/May/06

Hidden - AltLd β - 18/Jun/05

Si dH - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/05 with Alex Gaastra

Hidden - AltLd - 01/May/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/04

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/04

Hidden - 2nd - 30/May/04

Hidden - Lead - 30/May/04

Paz - AltLd O/S - Feb/04 with JS

Hidden - Lead - 2004

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Aug/03

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Aug/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2003

Scotsken - 2003

Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 2003

DerwentDiluted - AltLd - Aug/02 with Laurie Smith

hard to start
nickdonohue - Lead - May/02 with Kath Donohue

One of my all time favourites.
Red Leader - AltLd O/S - Sep/01

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Aug/01

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Jul/01

BALD EAGLE - AltLd - 09/Jun/01 with Duncan Bender

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/May/01

oscaig - AltLd O/S - Sep/00 with Steve Reeves

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 29/Aug/00

Hidden - 03/Aug/00

tapley - Lead - 05/Jul/00 with Simon Tapley, Alison Tapley

Steveb27 - AltLd - 2000

Boxy - AltLd - 28/Aug/99 with Jon H

Hidden - AltLd - 01/May/99

variation start
colin milton - AltLd - 15/Mar/99 with eric milton

no details
andy_pemberton - 1999

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/98

Why only **?
Rog Wilko - AltLd - Aug/98 with Debbie Wilkinson

With Dave Mountford.
stokienomad - Lead O/S - Jul/98

timreynolds - Lead - 02/May/98 with Paul Bastiaiens

Raggar - AltLd - 08/Mar/97 with Andy J

belay bunny turned bad - Lead - 1997

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/96

Budge - AltLd O/S - Aug/95 with Adrian Fox

michael burrows - Solo - 27/Jul/95

not p1
colin milton - AltLd - 18/Mar/95 with eric milton

TobyA - Lead O/S - Sep/94 with Olly

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/94

timreynolds - Lead - 28/May/94

jim_randell - Lead O/S - 09/May/94 with WW

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 14/Nov/92 with Adrian Draper

alan moore - 1990

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/89

Led 3&4
Iain Thow - AltLd - 06/Apr/88 with Steve Ball

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/87

Richard Weller - Solo - 25/May/85

malc - 2nd - 09/Apr/84

ill_bill - AltLd - Apr/83

Gordon Stainforth - AltLd - 09/Apr/82 with Mike Harber

Richard Weller - AltLd - Apr/82 with Richard White

DDDD - 1982

Halfway up pitch 1 Keith leading shouted "there's a big one coming!", I looked seawards and was immediately swept away underwater - fortunately belayed I surfaced in a slot and continued my duties as my noble leader continued upwards !
rogerskews - AltLd - 10/Aug/80 with Keith Jenkins

jmr - AltLd - 26/May/80 with Bob Howard

Steve Lenartowicz - 1980

Steve Woollard - Lead - 1978

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 05/Jun/77

RichardMc - AltLd - 08/Apr/77 with Dave Langmead

Simon cook - May/76

Bolt Phobia - AltLd - 05/Apr/76 with John Broadwell

Paul Clarke - 1976 with Mike Lynch, FMC

Nigel Bond - Lead - 11/Apr/74 with Alan

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Voting
Total votes cast 61
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hard HS11 of 22
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hard 4c0 of 18
4c1 of 18
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