Space-walking stuff on its final pitch and with plenty of interesting climbing throughout. Quite tough at the grade. Start above the 'Suicide Pool' at a deep, narrowing chimney.1) 4b, 24m. Bridge up the chimney and where it narrows move out onto its left rib. This point can also be gained by climbing the corner-crack right of the chimney to a ledge and then moving left. Move up and then step right to a ledge on the main buttress. Climb to a small stance at the left end of the roof that comes in from the right. This pitch can be split above the initial chimney.2) 4a, 17m. Traverse rightwards above the lip of the overhang and follow cracks up the centre of the wall in a fantastic position until a leftward line can be followed to a big ledge and belay blocks.3) 4b,11m. The line of steep thin cracks above the centre of the ledge provides an excellent but short lived finish. © Rockfax
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Matt Harmon||07/Aug||Lead O/S||
led all pitches in 2 pitches- lovely climb, climbed right side of crack and stepped across on P1, would've taken a while to commit but tide was coming in so had to be quick. top two pitches as the sun was setting was awesome
Jen Gilbert, Rich
|tom s g||21/Jul||Lead O/S||
Via the indirect approach as the chimney was wet and covered in brown slime. A very misty day.
David Barlow, Ali Morris
Me P1 (climbed up right of the chimney which was soaking)and P3, Stef got a bit lost on P2...
|Simon Caldwell||02/Sep/14||AltLd O/S||
In 4 pitches, I led 1 and 3. Made a complete fist of the first pitch, couldn't work out how on earth it could be bridged as per the guidebook, nor to back-and-foot as recommended by a passing climber, so thrutched it instead, slithering back down a few times while I worked it out, I still have the scars 2 weeks later. 3rd pitch had nice exposure but disappointingly easy. Last pitch was quite hard, more Rockfax's 4b than the CC's 4a. Overall, a quality route though maybe a bit disjointed, not quite the uber-classic I was expecting.
The wide P1 has a good character! The line of the last short pitch above the ledge described in the definitive guidebook was dirty, being covered with lichen, so I followed the top-out of Diocese (4c?), which was the crux of the route.
led 1 and 3
Brilliant climb with 'belay heaven' for the second anchor. 1st pitch is incredible if you enjoy chimneys. I imagine it's almost always wet.
Dan Biggin, Tom Wilding-Steele
Andrea P1, I lead P2 and P3. This was my first attempt at chimney, having watched Andrea glide up it I thought I had the technique nailed. Needles to say when I got on it I forgot everything I had seen. Instead I used the "Ass-wriggle" method of steadily moving one buttock up higher than the other, the crazy thing is it worked! This was a lovely climb, I really enjoyed it.
Lead P1 which was great and not really wet. Can't imagine it would be nice on a winters day or even a cold day. Lovely climb. Hamish lead P2 and P3.
Paul lead pitch 1, I lead middle bit, Paul lead final pitch.
|Paul Baxter||19/Apr/14||AltLd O/S||
Led P1 and final pitch. Struggled in the initial chimney, but got it in the end. After that everything felt easy.
Stopped first pitch early after ending up a long way above my gear and being scared. Alan led remained of first pitch to correct ledge then ran pitches 2 and 3 into one. Pitch one: Not too hard climbing but bold moves and hard to protect Pitch two: good climbing, good gear Pitch three: Reasonable to protect, hard climbing for the grade. Overall definitely at the top of the grade.
good climb that has a bit of everything
|Tom Last||14/Nov/13||AltLd O/S||
Chester led main pitch. Skipped 1st pitch due to massive seas. Great climb.
Brilliant climb, stunning setting above stormy seas with Tom Last.
Brilliant climb, also i soloed the first two pitches afterwards as Dom didn't know he had to take the gear out
Dom, Joe Coxson
Lead the route in 2 pitches no worries.
|Helen Boothman||18/Sep/13||AltLd O/S|
So busy on the BH all the good routes were busy ....
|The Ivanator||04/Jun/12||AltLd O/S||
I led the first pitch then we escaped off left to avoid congestion.
Me p1&3, Kylie p2&4. P1 is a flared salty narrowing crack. Not really hard but not particularly welcoming. P2&3 nice easy climbing on good holds. P4 is surprisingly hard for the grade, Kylie nearly fell off on lead.
Lead pitches 2 and 4. Really enjoyed the route, the chimney was fun! Came very close to slipping off near the top - first time that's happened!
led 2nd pitch, for which we did the more direct pitch from diocese.
I led p1&3
missed out the horrible looking chimney at the start!
|Different Steve||22/Apr/11||Lead rpt||
bypassed minging initial chimney!
very pleasant, easy climbing. very atmospheric second pitch above the roof : )
|mr phil morton||17/Jul/10||2nd|
Mark van vleit
Lost No. 8 nut on first pitch, in the chimney. Back and footed up the chimney.
Ollie Warren, Stan Norrie
Wet and slimey, neither J nor I could climb chimney
Abbed in which was a bad idea as it was still wet and slippery and neither Robert nor I could find a way to bridge up the chimney. Abandoned.
Omitted first pitch. Led 3rd pitch
|John Brayshaw||25/Oct/09||AltLd O/S||
missed pitch 1 due to tides
|Roger Cruse||09/Jul/09||AltLd O/S||
Kris & Buffy
Dave led p2.
Led 1st and 2nd pitches. Patrick did a massive traverse across the buttress ending up on the belay stance of The Mitre, but traversed back on route and finished up Diocese. Amazing, varied climb; probably better than the proper route!
Led p2 and p4, which I think was actually the last pitch of Diocese.
Great route. Climbed in wet, couldnt find much gear on bottom chimney and that fell out
Sean lead the first and last pitch. I lead the middle pitch, which is very easy - more like diff really. Beautiful exposure on the top pitch with 150+ feet of air below your feet on plentiful, if slightly small, holds.
p1-4 may have finished on last pitch of Diocese.
|Mark D||07/Aug/07||Lead O/S||
Dave Ross, Dave Prady
|jon clayton||?/Jun/07||Lead O/S||
Found the start quite hard for the grade. Brilliant route.
Best climb of the weekend - very glad to escape that chimney before the disco legs set in! Top pitch definitely strenuous if you stop for photos
Kate & Liz
Flannel/towel required for the bridging pitch only (1)
|Mike Gee||?/Aug/06||2nd O/S||
|victim of mathematics||31/Jul/06||AltLd O/S|
High tide start.
Claire Graham, Lee Mcinnes.
bridging start and amazing exposure on pitch 3
Steve Berry, Norman Wright
|Si dH||16/Jun/05||AltLd O/S||
|Rob Pitt||??/2003||Lead O/S|
hard to start
|Red Leader||?/Sep/01||AltLd O/S||
One of my all time favourites.
Simon Tapley, Alison Tapley
Why only **?
With Dave Mountford.
|belay bunny turned bad||??/1997||Lead|
Halfway up pitch 1 Keith leading shouted "there's a big one coming!", I looked seawards and was immediately swept away underwater - fortunately belayed I surfaced in a slot and continued my duties as my noble leader continued upwards !