Supermassive Black Hole*** 7a
[Mark Hounslea finishing Supermassive Black Hole, Llanberis slate, 3 kb]75m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A stellar line up this wall - something of a safe adventure. Start below a bolted groove.
1) 7a, 25m. Climb the groove past many bolts. When the holds run out, make a move right onto the blank wall. A crucial foothold here can remain damp, but the bolt can provide aid past this. Regain the groove above and pull onto the ledge and belay.
2) 6b, 12m. A short pitch that links up and right, past bolts, to a second groove.
3) 6c, 25m. The second groove looks just as hard as the first but is a little easier. A similar step right to the first pitch bypasses a blank section of the groove before regaining it again and following it to the belay below a final dolerite slab.
4) 6b, 12m. Follow the bolts up the slab via some quartz pockets and belay off fence posts and a thread. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
An awesome 4 pitch slate adventure from the very bottom of the ‘Twll Mawr’ hole topping out on the viewing platform adjacent to the track. The route follows an impressive and awe-inspiring (read - intimidating!) line of grooves and pocketed dolerite. The route can be accessed through the Twll Mawr / Peregrine Wall Tunnels and walking down the scree slope to the bottom of the hole, or alternatively a multiple abseil if you have a spare rope. Start just left of Running Scared F7c+ by an obvious and well bolted groove.
Pitch 1 -25m (7a) the obvious well bolted groove defined by a blank slab / wall on its right. When the holds run out make a rightwards move onto the slab followed by some more technical moves to regain the groove (crux). Belay on the grassy Ledge above.
Pitch 2 – 12m (6b+) the pitch that joins the two grooves has a technical and precarious (fall offable!) crux. Continue upwards / rightwards to gain the belay at the base of the 2nd groove.
Pitch 3 – 25m (6c+ / 7a) the second intimidating groove pitch similar to the crux on the first pitch when the holds run out make a rightwards move onto the slab followed by some more technical moves to regain the groove (crux). Continue up the groove which looks desperate but climbs more easily to a belay where the groove ends and the dolerite slab begins.
Pitch 4 – 12m (6b) a change of character and rock type for the final well positioned pitch, climb the black dolerite slab via some great quartz pockets to thankfully gain the ‘viewing’ ledge above. Use a thread + Bolt for a belay and RELAX!

NOTE: If you've enjoyed any of the bolted routes in Twll Mawr please consider donating to the North Wales Bolt Fund :-)

Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sion McGuinness 07/Jul/2011

Ticklists: a State of Slate, Classic UK F7s, Twll Mawr Sporting Challenge, Dinorwic Slate - Multi Pitch Sport Climbs, All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7a & 7a+, Slate Sport, Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist.

Photo: Mark Hounslea finishing Supermassive Black Hole, Llanberis slate © dwillis
View all 11 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 54 logbooks, and on 32 wishlists.

Got lost but great fun. Did first pitch and belayed on the left. Then went straight up from there. Never noticed the bolts changed till past the hard smooth wall with square block. By then it was to late so I moved right to the top of the 3rd pitch belay on SMBH and then finished that route. It should be a link up cause it was brilliant. Will have to come back for the 2nd and 3rd pitches. Quality
luke glaister - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/15 with Jimmysmith1577

Great route, p3 superb. Guidebook grading all to cock. I would suggest 6c+, 6c, 6c+, 6b+
Derek Ryden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/15 with Ian Parnell

MrBIond - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/15 with Alex booker, Ed Teale

1st pitch. Favourite pitch on Slate so far.
mrteale - Lead β - 16/Jun/15 with MrBlond

Hidden - AltLd dog - 06/Jun/15

Another excellent route Ian, diolch yn fawr. Perhaps those of us with suppleness (or subtlety?) have an advantage on the first pitch? Generously bolted climbing on mostly solid rock.
geoff b - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/15 with Mike P & Steve L

Soft touch but superb.
pete johnson - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/15 with Al Hughes

ian Ll-J - Lead rpt - 10/Apr/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/14

Stefan_Morris - AltLd O/S - 03/May/14 with AndrewJamesCherry

Been eyeing it up all year, feels fantastic have onsighted it. Climbs really well
AndrewJamesCherry - AltLd O/S - 03/May/14 with stef morris

Pitches 1,3,4 Sooo good! I strung he last two pitches together and it felt so awesome. I reckon it probably pays to be tall on pitch 3 because every move is quite long. Brilliant! 1st pitch felt much easier than I expected.
dswansonlow - AltLd O/S - 02/May/14 with Darren McMaster

Led pitch 2. Great route. Would not want to be much shorter, would quickly start to get very tricky!
shed_hed - AltLd O/S - 02/May/14 with Dougie Swanson-Low

guy757 - 21/Apr/14

After completing the crux move right on the first pitch and having moved back left to the groove/aręte I then pulled on a large block - which I think moved. Having crapped myself I climbed upward very swiftly - so I didn't hang around to inspect the hold/block. Consequently I can't say if the hold/block was really loose or if I just imagined it. My mate didn't notice anything dodgy when he seconded the pitch but he may well have used different holds. Nevertheless I thought I should post something on here so that other people will at least be aware of the possible danger. I suspect the dodgy rock is avoidable but it would be well worth having a look at the holds on the groove/arete above the crux step right if you are abbing in to the start of the route Offending block since removed by Ian LJ with no increase in grade. Thanks for doing that Ian
colin struthers - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/13

soph - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/13 with Lee Cooper

Tried to lead first pitch but came off in the groove
Mattlamb90 - 2nd RP - 27/Jul/13 with Ryan

spidey - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/13 with mat lamb

Abseiled in to the ledge and then down to the bottom. Great climb in the shade from the heatwave. Recommended. It looks like we did P1 of Supermassive and P2 of Black Holes. Then we finished up Black Holes too. Good adventure.
Julian Cooper - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13 with Ben Steel

lewisrichardson - Lead dog - Jun/13 with dad

second time through for me, felt like a few holds had gone missing! (or maybe i was feeling weak) still great. 7a, 6b+, 6c/+, 6b for me.
rustaldo - Lead rpt - 03/May/13 with Kit Perry

Hidden - 2nd - 03/May/13

Fun, soft touch for 7a
morganator - AltLd - 02/May/13 with Calum Muskett

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/13

Just climbed pitches 2,3 & 4 cause the abseil rope was too short!
Paul Collins - 2nd - 19/Mar/13 with Rory Sullivan

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Nic Sellars

metal arms - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12

dan ely - Lead rpt - 16/May/12 with pitbull

Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 13/May/12 with Liam

A combination of this and black holes and revelatons. good climbing whatever we did.
willoates - AltLd O/S - 08/May/12 with John Oooooore

amazing route! good overall value at 7a, did it in 3pitches linking the last two. the climbing throughout is great, lots of thin moves between jugs.
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/12 with Tom

led pitch 2 + 4, led pitch 4 in the dark with head torch. amazing route! first pitch definetly felt alot easier than 7a
jason reeve - AltLd - 27/Nov/11 with dylan

mark mcgowan01 - AltLd O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Trevor Hodgson, Johnny Dawes

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Nov/11

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Nov/11

In two logical (6c+?) pitches. Led P1. Seconded P2 in the rain. Very well bolted and no really hard moves. Fantastic route, gauranteed to become a modern classic.
Alex Mason - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/11 with Owain Atkins

Great Route, strung pitches 1+2 and 3+4 together. Led 3+4. Awesome!
owain86 - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/11 with Alex Mason

Dave Turnbull, BMC - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Chris Parkin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/11

i lead crux pitches. congrats and big respect to the bolters (Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sion McGuinness) great effort and route, thanks very much!
dan ely - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/11 with Torqwell

Gareth led P1, I led P2-4 in one pitch. I would suggest the route to be done this way as there is an excellent belay ledge on pitch one. Good job Ian, excellent route...
mr mills - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/11 with Gareth

Hidden - 2nd dog - 04/Aug/11

A very nice route. The crux is much harder than the rest of the route, a high step up unless you have very long legs and can bridge it. Topped out at dusk. A great adventure, good effort spotting and cleaning it, Ian.
Steve Long - Lead - Aug/11 with MIke Pycroft

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jul/11

Third ascent. I think this is on the cusp of 7a rather than 6c+. I think that if 7a was your limit and you expected this to be 'alrite' you'd get a spanking. Good climbing, mini quarryman-esk. Pitch 1 and 3 are the hardest. very good
schof - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/11 with Big phil

great route, do in 2 long pitches, well bolted- thanks to the first asciensionists for all the hard work!
phil64 - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/11 with andy schofield

Awesome route. Its not as hard as looks. Apart from a couple of moves all the holes are quite big and positive. Can be done as two long pitches. very well bolted and easy to find.
Glyn - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/11 with Calum Muskett

First Ascent an awesome and memorable adventure!
ian Ll-J - Lead - 07/Jul/11

Fantastic! Excellent climbing in a very intimidating position. Very pleased to be on the FA. (Ian did all the hard work though!)
McGuinness - 2nd O/S - 07/Jul/11 with Ian ll-j

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mattrm, serby, RFWilkie, max_dickens, bigBadBadger, Tom.Priestley, chrisclimber, morpcat, APuddy, ad111, wazzalad20, Dean177, Nick Nitro, Billg, rustaldo, eugeneth, samrad, Ropeboy, wi11, Tom Livingstone, mloskot, Matt Reid

Total votes cast 50
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