UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

75m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A stellar line up this wall gives something of a safe adventure. Start below a bolted groove.
1) 7a, 25m. Climb the groove past many bolts. When the holds run out, make a move right onto the blank wall. A crucial foothold here can remain damp, but the bolt can provide aid past it. Regain the groove above and pull onto the ledge to belay.
2) 6b, 12m. A short pitch that heads up and right, past bolts, to a second groove.
3) 6c, 25m. The second groove looks just as hard as the first, but is a little easier. As with the first pitch, a step right bypasses a blank section before regaining the groove again and following it to the belay below a final dolerite slab.
4) 6b, 12m. Follow the bolts up the slab via some quartz pockets. Belay off fence posts and a thread. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An awesome 4 pitch slate adventure from the very bottom of the ‘Twll Mawr’ hole topping out on the viewing platform adjacent to the track. The route follows an impressive and awe-inspiring (read - intimidating!) line of grooves and pocketed dolerite. The route can be accessed through the Twll Mawr / Peregrine Wall Tunnels and walking down the scree slope to the bottom of the hole, or alternatively a multiple abseil if you have a spare rope. Start just left of Running Scared F7c+ by an obvious and well bolted groove.
Pitch 1 -25m (7a) the obvious well bolted groove defined by a blank slab / wall on its right. When the holds run out make a rightwards move onto the slab followed by some more technical moves to regain the groove (crux). Belay on the grassy Ledge above.
Pitch 2 – 12m (6b+) the pitch that joins the two grooves has a technical and precarious (fall offable!) crux. Continue upwards / rightwards to gain the belay at the base of the 2nd groove.
Pitch 3 – 25m (6c+ / 7a) the second intimidating groove pitch similar to the crux on the first pitch when the holds run out make a rightwards move onto the slab followed by some more technical moves to regain the groove (crux). Continue up the groove which looks desperate but climbs more easily to a belay where the groove ends and the dolerite slab begins.
Pitch 4 – 12m (6b) a change of character and rock type for the final well positioned pitch, climb the black dolerite slab via some great quartz pockets to thankfully gain the ‘viewing’ ledge above. Use a thread + Bolt for a belay and RELAX!

NOTE: If you've enjoyed any of the bolted routes in Twll Mawr please consider donating to the North Wales Bolt Fund :-)

http://northwalesboltfund.webs.com/

Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sion McGuinness 07/Jul/2011.

Ticklists

Classic UK F7s , Dinorwic Slate - Multi Pitch Sport Climbs , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7a & 7a+ , Slate Sport , Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist , Twll Mawr Big Wall 1000 Metre Challenge! , Rock cats getting strong , Big Routes , Slate 2018/2019 , Sl@teheads Sl@te , Slate Mastery , Llanberis Slate *** Routes , All multi-pitch sport routes (England and Wales) , R&T , North Wales To Do List , Cianchi's Hit List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Andy Moles 14 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Not sure if something has changed but three of us all thought that P2 has the crux move of the whole route, so must be harder than 6b? Also not much difference in difficulty between P1 and P3. Works well as two longer pitches.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not sure if something has changed but three of us all thought that P2 has the crux move of the whole route, so must be harder than 6b? Also not much difference in difficulty between P1 and P3. Works well as two longer pitches.
Steve Long 13 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: I've climbed this several times now and am certain that the left arete, with a bit of bridging and a cheeky sidepull to reach the high obvious jutting jug, is the easiest way to climb the first pitch crux.
Show beta
βeta: I've climbed this several times now and am certain that the left arete, with a bit of bridging and a cheeky sidepull to reach the high obvious jutting jug, is the easiest way to climb the first pitch crux.

Logged Ascents

209 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Twll Mawr

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 219 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 54
Votes cast 54
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Straight Torquin'

Grade: 7a ***
(Tyddyn Hywel Quarry)

Loading Notifications...