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Lean Man's Climb*** VS 4c

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[Lean Man's Climb, Black Rocks, 2 kb]22m. Tackle the awkward and slippery elephant's-ear layback (crux) to good ledges; tree belay. Climb the wall leftwards following the superb zig-zag crack into a final steep groove (4c). © ROCKFAX
FA. Fred Pigott 1920. FA. (the flake start) Eric Byne 1933

Ticklists: Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion, The Black Rocks 1949 Guide VS Challenge.

Photo: Lean Man's Climb, Black Rocks © Chris Craggs
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 184 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

As one pitch, needed the big gear at the top, problem was that I'd used it at the start. Definitely the case of a soft southerner trying to jam at the top.
Matt Smith - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/14 with Zoe Taylor

Hidden - 2nd dog - 23/Aug/14

hipyhop - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/14 with Mike Cheque

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/14

Start very good protected with a no. 4 camelot,slightly slippery; 1 no. 3 camelot and 1 no. 4 Helium friend were quite handy for the final crack
Russ - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/14 with sarah brookes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/14

VS4C, thought the top crack was crux rather than elephants ear. 3 stars but not as good as Sand Buttress
Wayne S - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/14 with Richard W

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/14

Lancer - 2nd - 12/Jun/14 with John B- PCC

john_ni - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/14 with Nick (PCC)

IanGilbertJones - 2014

Matt Cooke - 2nd β - 29/Sep/13 with Matt Marshall

Hidden - 2nd RP - 17/Sep/13

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead - 21/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/13

Leeds Andy - Lead - 07/Aug/13

wolverine - Lead rpt - 06/Aug/13 with Thunderthighsontheloose

Thunderthighsontheloose - 2nd - 06/Aug/13 with Mike Hayes

ERH - 2nd - Aug/13

Initial crack 5a, last move awkward too. Good climbing.
Chris Craggs - 2nd - 15/Jul/13 with Steve Cunnington, Graham Parkes

quickdrawmcraw - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/13

Repeat.
jshields - 2nd - 17/Apr/13 with Dean Jones

quality, well protected climb.
Jones_d - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/13 with Jon Shields

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/12 with Dave Sargent

davewsargent - 2nd rpt - 22/Aug/12 with peter sargent

Led P1.
Alex.M-M. - AltLd rpt - 19/Aug/12

lovely route, interesting holds, good jams and clean solid rock :D
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/12 with Claire

mike lawrence? - Lead - 14/Aug/12 with James the Navigator

Savlon - 2nd - 09/Aug/12 with Luke Perry, Dave Bowler

melonmike - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/12 with Nick

Rachel Slater - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/12 with Olli Crudge

Olli-C - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/12 with Rachel Slater

nic42 - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/12 with mike

tgeh - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/12 with dan geh

Dan Geh - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/12 with Thomas Geh

fatbuoybazza - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/12 with deborah

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/12

really nice climb. looking forward to leading it.
joe hallam - Solo O/S - 05/Jun/12

Lead in 1 pitch
Climbster - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Leslie

davewsargent - 2nd - 17/May/12

Stefan_Morris - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12 with Alex

Fraser hill-casey - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12 with AndrewJamesCherry

Enjoyed it all. VERY COLD
AndrewJamesCherry - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12

gordonday - Lead rpt - 17/Mar/12 with clive

whitehouse_rhys - Lead O/S - 2012

Heather Osborne - 2012 with Craig Osborne

JohnHutch - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/11 with L

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/11

Led 2nd pitch. Great stuff! Giant holds to tenuous moves on tiny footholds, with a good dollop of Elvis foot, to monster jams in a fantastic position.
LP - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/11

Easy but polished and ridiculously dirty and vegetated exiting the slab! It's one thing to have grass on holds and a different league altogether to have grass growing out of the holds... Needs some gardening for sure.
Alkis - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Chris Nawrat

althesin - Lead - 02/Jul/11 with Reds

Reds - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Althesin

M_W_Court - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/11 with Pagey

spragglerocks - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Bruce LMC

Dan724 - Lead O/S - 31/May/11 with Raji Salan

Brilliant route. Some nice moves with good gear and a bit of exposure in places. Much easier than Birch Tree Wall but still a great challenge. Lead it all in 1 pitch.
gavinpeach - Lead O/S - 21/May/11 with Liam Ward

Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 15/May/11 with james pcc

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/May/11

davewsargent - Lead O/S - 04/May/11

shaky2 - Lead - 03/May/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/May/11

migs493 - 2nd β - 30/Apr/11 with LO

lozowen - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11

shouter - Lead - 24/Apr/11

colin milton - Lead - 23/Apr/11 with martin

Hidden - Solo O/S - 20/Apr/11

slippy first section and pretty desperate towards the top. Great route though.
gb83 - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/11 with masa

Started from the Indirect. Brilliant route.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11 with Graeme B

RossT - AltLd - 15/Apr/11 with Andrew Edwards

Done it all in 1 pitch, managed the ear without too much problem. the final few moves of the 2nd pitch are great! Some fantastic jamming to be had!
oddessy_uk - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/11 with Luke Spencer

SPENCER41 - 2nd O/S - 23/Mar/11 with Jason Curle

Scottish78 - 2011

PAJames - 2011

layback polished
AielSavage - Lead O/S - 2011

thedoctorisin - 2011

MikeDowsett - 2nd - 2011 with Dave Sargent

Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/10 with Graeme

Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 17/Oct/10 with Jim

tomthecoolperson - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10 with Andrew

Started up indirect start. Had climbed the elephants ear bit before but bottled the top so went back today to do the top.
kermit_uk - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/10 with Kurt Davy

KurtD - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/10 with Cameron Anderson

Daymo - 2nd O/S - 19/Aug/10 with DJ

deejmonkey - Lead - 19/Aug/10 with Damian

nice moves!
thomb - Lead - 17/Jul/10 with Maddy

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Jun/10

rob wmc - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Alan

kevp - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Sarah Gardner

zassy - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Kevin Page

Cool lay backing to start with and mint clean upper wall, Very Nice!!
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Pete aka Dad

highrepute - Lead O/S - 31/May/10

Sarah Brookes - 2nd O/S - 28/Apr/10

great route.
Milne - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/10 with dave saxby

Gustav - 2nd O/S - 27/Apr/10 with Matt B

Matt Fry - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/10 with Andy Janezko

bigdrew - Lead rpt - 26/Apr/10 with Matt Fry

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2010

joshen - Lead O/S - 2010

Led both pitches. The moves in the middle of the first pitch are great and the second pitch really catches you off guard if you are not ready for a limb swallowing gritstone crack!
tom.ireson - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Guv Jagdev

Chewie - 2nd - 23/Aug/09

The supposed crux over the elephant's ear was fairly simple. The tree belay is no longer there and the final move in the top crack took quite a while to work out. Deserves its stars, a great route.
boulderholder - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/09 with Paul Taylor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/09

stvey - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/09 with Jay_Kay

dan gibson - Solo O/S - 16/Jun/09

Retro Flash. Led 1st (Elephant's ear) pitch. Great moves - though the lichen is really slippery - keep off!
climbingrev - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/09 with Tim Angell

chrisclimber_1986 - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/09 with Luke Lindsay

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/09

keith leonard - 2009

Stig - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/08 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

oi_now - 30/Jun/08

Hidden - AltLd dog - 25/Jun/08

Alfredo - Lead - Jun/08

b.hayley - Lead O/S - Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/May/08

Hidden - 2nd - 18/May/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/08

thrutch - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Nov/07

Katya - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/07 with AndyG

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/07

clintos - AltLd - 04/Sep/07 with jonny green

Hidden - Jul/07

I did first pitch. Ed led second
Pilch - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/07 with Ed

struggled on elephants ear for a bit, then lead 2nd pitch - which I cant remeber.
EdShep - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/07 with Pilch

Si dH - 2nd rpt - 18/Apr/07 with Neil Furniss

Andy Peak 1 - AltLd - 2007

Shaw Brown - Lead - 23/Sep/06 with cliff brown

A nice route, start with a delicate layback. The 2nd crux at the top is a difficult off-balance crack. Careful what you put in the belay device!
Mark_RMC - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/06 with Michelle

cem - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/06 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - Lead - 2006

Si dH - AltLd O/S - 28/May/05 with Alex Gaastra

tatz45 - Lead O/S - May/05 with Quentin O'Brien

Dave Mason - Lead O/S - 2005 with Trev Tatler

nige pacer - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/04

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 2004 with charles

thomasholyoak - Lead O/S - Oct/03 with DS

Set out in OPR as 2 pitch, but did in one. Elephant ear layback followed by crack and groove climbing. From word go a serious proposition. Elephant ear layback good and solid with great gear. Top pitch not as hard technically, but exposure great!. Felt as tenuous as anything. At top of first stance, felt satisfied, but the best was yet to come. Grooves brilliant, but really have to be jammed. Cut loose on final move, left hanging by one arm from a classic grit sloper! Great foot jam saved the day :-))
climbingrev - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/03

Hidden - Solo - Jul/03

Stefan Kruger - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/03 with Peter Meulemans

Different Steve - Lead - May/03 with Christina Ennis

Peakology - Lead O/S - 2003 with cat

Chalky Cat - 2nd O/S - 2003 with Dom

samwelli - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/02 with Reuben Brown

Phil West - 2nd O/S - 17/Aug/02 with Chris Tan

nickdonohue - Lead - Jun/02 with Ian Brenton, Kath Donohue

Hidden - Lead - 21/May/02

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 12/May/02 with Clare Wilkie

Hidden - Lead - 02/May/02

petekeron - Lead O/S - 2002

Budge - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/01 with Mike Oates

Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - Jul/01 with Neil Brown

Hidden - Lead - 07/May/01

chris warner - TR - Jul/00

Stone Muppet - 2000

marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 2000 with Gibbon Bum

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/99

rurp - Lead O/S - 1996

Roget - Solo rpt - 24/Aug/95

Gordon Stainforth - AltLd - 06/Aug/95 with John Cutcliffe

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jul/95

Ian Archer - 2nd O/S - 06/Mar/95 with Robert Mirfin

brady - 2nd - 1995 with John Cameron

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Jun/92

RichardMc - 2nd - 03/May/92 with Jim Fisher

kato'sdad - Lead - 28/Oct/90 with Dave McCarthy

andrew300169 - 1990

Andy Say - Solo - 22/Apr/89

Hidden - 1989

steve prior - Lead O/S - Aug/86 with Chris S

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Mar/85

Nigel Bond - Lead - 08/Apr/84 with Charlie Leverton

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/83

John Brayshaw - AltLd O/S - 15/May/83 with Alfreton MC

Mark Kemball - Solo - 16/Apr/83

1980's
CrashMat Rob - Lead O/S - 1980

tapley - Lead - 29/Sep/79 with Chris Seymour, Alison Tapley

Nigel Bond - Lead - 19/Jun/79 with Martin Crosby

babymoac - 2nd - 1978 with Mad martin

rogerskews - 1976 with CMC Members

greenbuoy - AltLd - 11/Jun/72 with Claire W, Bob Lister

mikej - AltLd - 18/Oct/67 with Geoff Williams

Led pitch 1 but Keith ran out of daylight on pitch 2.
mikej - AltLd dnf - 09/Nov/66 with Keith Gregson

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
lem, SuperLee1985, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, papalazarou, schristophersmith, squicky, Ander, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 104
hard HVS0 of 36
HVS0 of 36
easy HVS2 of 36
hard VS10 of 36
VS24 of 36
easy VS0 of 36
hard HS0 of 36
HS0 of 36
easy HS0 of 36
hard 5a1 of 34
5a23 of 34
easy 5a5 of 34
hard 4c5 of 34
4c0 of 34
easy 4c0 of 34
hard 4b0 of 34
4b0 of 34
easy 4b0 of 34
3 Stars25 of 34
2 Stars7 of 34
1 Star0 of 34
0 Stars1 of 34
Bag of .....1 of 34
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Style of ascent

Soloed7 of 184 (3.8%)
Lead95 of 184 (51.6%)
Followed49 of 184 (26.6%)
Toproped1 of 184 (0.5%)
Alt Leads18 of 184 (9.8%)
Unknown14 of 184 (7.6%)

'Climbed'64 of 184 (34.8%)
clean O/S105 of 184 (57.1%)
clean β2 of 184 (1.1%)
clean rpt9 of 184 (4.9%)
clean RP1 of 184 (0.5%)
dogged2 of 184 (1.1%)
dnf1 of 184 (0.5%)