Rockfax Description
Tackle the awkward and slippery elephant's-ear layback (crux?) to good ledges; belay. Climb the wall leftwards following the superb zig-zag crack into a final steep groove. © Rockfax

FA. Fred Pigott 1920. FA. (the flake start) Eric Byne 1933

Ticklists: Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion, The Black Rocks 1949 Guide VS Challenge, Stonnis Allstars.

chrismadar 04/Oct 2nd O/S

Linked both pitches. Seemed fairly hard at the top for a 4c.

LakesWinter 27/Sep AltLd O/S

Split on the ledge as didn't have many cams.

Hidden 27/Sep AltLd
mapperley samurai 21/May Lead O/S

Nice climbing, very green on the flake.

davidalcock 21/May 2nd

Great varied climb.

karol dubas 22/Apr Lead O/S
with Marcus
rurp 21/Apr Lead rpt
with Mark
Shannyb ?/Apr -
stacey73 ?/Apr 2nd
with OLLIE
amccann 27/Mar Solo O/S
with Nick
Nick1812P 27/Mar Solo O/S
with speedy
Hidden 21/Mar 2nd O/S
Jonathan Hall 21/Mar Lead
philhc ??/2015 -
Oliver Houston 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Matt Smith 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

As one pitch, needed the big gear at the top, problem was that I'd used it at the start. Definitely the case of a soft southerner trying to jam at the top.

Hidden 23/Aug/14 2nd dog
hipyhop 11/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with cheque
Hidden 11/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Russ 10/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Start very good protected with a no. 4 camelot,slightly slippery; 1 no. 3 camelot and 1 no. 4 Helium friend were quite handy for the final crack

with sarah brookes
Hidden 07/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Wayne S 24/Jul/14 Lead O/S

VS4C, thought the top crack was crux rather than elephants ear. 3 stars but not as good as Sand Buttress

Hidden 24/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Lancer 12/Jun/14 2nd
with John B- PCC
john_ni 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Nick (PCC)
IanGilbertJones ??/2014 -
Matt Cooke 29/Sep/13 2nd β
with Matt Marshall
Hidden 17/Sep/13 2nd RP
Hidden 27/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 21/Aug/13 Lead
onlyfoddington 18/Aug/13 2nd O/S

I found gaining the final crack harder than the elephant ear.

with Steve R
Hidden 07/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 06/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Thunderthighsontheloose 06/Aug/13 2nd
ERH ?/Aug/13 2nd
Chris Craggs 15/Jul/13 2nd

Initial crack 5a, last move awkward too. Good climbing.

with Steve Cunnington, Graham Parkes
quickdrawmcraw 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S
jshields 17/Apr/13 2nd


Hidden 17/Apr/13 Lead O/S
pie_eater_pete 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S
davewsargent 22/Aug/12 2nd rpt
Alex.M-M. 19/Aug/12 AltLd rpt

Led P1.

JamieSparkes 16/Aug/12 Lead O/S

lovely route, interesting holds, good jams and clean solid rock :D

mike lawrence? 14/Aug/12 Lead
with James the Navigator
Savlon 09/Aug/12 2nd
with Luke Perry, Dave Bowler
melonmike 04/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Nick
Rachel Slater 04/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Olli-C 04/Aug/12 Lead O/S
nic42 04/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with mike
tgeh 25/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with dan geh
Dan Geh 25/Jul/12 Lead O/S
fatbuoybazza 01/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with deborah
Hidden 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S
joe hallam 05/Jun/12 Solo O/S

really nice climb. looking forward to leading it.

Climbster 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Lead in 1 pitch

with Leslie
davewsargent 17/May/12 2nd
Stefan_Morris 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Alex
Fraser hill-casey 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
AndrewJamesCherry 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Enjoyed it all. VERY COLD

gordonday 17/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with clive
whitehouse_rhys ??/2012 Lead O/S
Heather Osborne ??/2012 -
with Craig Osborne
Hidden 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S
LP 15/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch. Great stuff! Giant holds to tenuous moves on tiny footholds, with a good dollop of Elvis foot, to monster jams in a fantastic position.

Alkis 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Easy but polished and ridiculously dirty and vegetated exiting the slab! It's one thing to have grass on holds and a different league altogether to have grass growing out of the holds... Needs some gardening for sure.

with Chris Nawrat
althesin 02/Jul/11 Lead
with Reds
Reds 02/Jul/11 2nd O/S
M_W_Court 27/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Pagey
spragglerocks 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Bruce LMC
Dan724 31/May/11 Lead O/S
gavinpeach 21/May/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant route. Some nice moves with good gear and a bit of exposure in places. Much easier than Birch Tree Wall but still a great challenge. Lead it all in 1 pitch.

with Liam Ward
Graeme Hammond 15/May/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 15/May/11 Lead O/S
davewsargent 04/May/11 Lead O/S
shaky2 03/May/11 Lead
Hidden 03/May/11 2nd O/S
migs493 30/Apr/11 2nd β
with LO
lozowen 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
shouter 24/Apr/11 Lead
colin milton 23/Apr/11 Lead
with martin
Hidden 20/Apr/11 Solo O/S
gb83 16/Apr/11 2nd O/S

slippy first section and pretty desperate towards the top. Great route though.

with masa
masa-alpin 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Started from the Indirect. Brilliant route.

RossT 15/Apr/11 AltLd
with Andrew Edwards
oddessy_uk 23/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Done it all in 1 pitch, managed the ear without too much problem. the final few moves of the 2nd pitch are great! Some fantastic jamming to be had!

SPENCER41 23/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Jason Curle
Scottish78 ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
AielSavage ??/2011 Lead O/S

layback polished

ollie_e ??/2011 -
MikeDowsett ??/2011 2nd
Jim Slater 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 17/Oct/10 2nd rpt
with Jim
tomthecoolperson 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Andrew
kermit_uk 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Started up indirect start. Had climbed the elephants ear bit before but bottled the top so went back today to do the top.

KurtD 22/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Daymo 19/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with DJ
deejmonkey 19/Aug/10 Lead
with Damian
thomb 17/Jul/10 Lead

nice moves!

with Maddy
Hidden 28/Jun/10 AltLd
rob wmc 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Alan
kevp 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
zassy 05/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 31/May/10 Lead O/S

Cool lay backing to start with and mint clean upper wall, Very Nice!!

with Pete aka Dad
highrepute 31/May/10 Lead O/S
Sarah Brookes 28/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Milne 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S

great route.

Gustav 27/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Matt B
Matt Fry 26/Apr/10 2nd O/S
bigdrew 26/Apr/10 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2010 2nd O/S
joshen ??/2010 Lead O/S
tom.ireson 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. The moves in the middle of the first pitch are great and the second pitch really catches you off guard if you are not ready for a limb swallowing gritstone crack!

with Guv Jagdev
Chewie 23/Aug/09 2nd
boulderholder 14/Aug/09 Lead O/S

The supposed crux over the elephant's ear was fairly simple. The tree belay is no longer there and the final move in the top crack took quite a while to work out. Deserves its stars, a great route.

Hidden 29/Jun/09 Lead O/S
stvey 29/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Jay_Kay
dan gibson 16/Jun/09 Solo O/S
climbingrev 15/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Retro Flash. Led 1st (Elephant's ear) pitch. Great moves - though the lichen is really slippery - keep off!

chrisclimber_1986 07/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Luke Lindsay
Hidden 31/May/09 Lead O/S
keith leonard ??/2009 -
Stig 10/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
oi_now 30/Jun/08 -
Hidden 25/Jun/08 AltLd dog
Alfredo ?/Jun/08 Lead
b.hayley ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/08 2nd
Hidden 02/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
thrutch ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 01/Nov/07 2nd
Katya 12/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with AndyG
Hidden 08/Sep/07 2nd O/S
clintos 04/Sep/07 AltLd
with jonny green
paul birch ?/Jul/07 -
Pilch 07/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

I did first pitch. Ed led second

with Ed
EdShep 06/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

struggled on elephants ear for a bit, then lead 2nd pitch - which I cant remeber.

with Pilch
Si dH 18/Apr/07 2nd rpt
with Neil Furniss
Andy Peak 1 ??/2007 AltLd
Shaw Brown 23/Sep/06 Lead
with cliff brown
Mark_RMC 17/Sep/06 Lead O/S

A nice route, start with a delicate layback. The 2nd crux at the top is a difficult off-balance crack. Careful what you put in the belay device!

with Michelle
cem 20/Aug/06 Lead O/S
andrewwightman ??/2006 Lead
with colin Currie
Si dH 28/May/05 AltLd O/S
with Alex Gaastra
tatz45 ?/May/05 Lead O/S
with Quentin O'Brien
Dave Mason ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Trev Tatler
nige pacer 26/Sep/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Mar/04 Lead O/S
Dave Bond ??/2004 Lead O/S
with charles
thomasholyoak ?/Oct/03 Lead O/S
with DS
climbingrev 26/Aug/03 Lead O/S

Set out in OPR as 2 pitch, but did in one. Elephant ear layback followed by crack and groove climbing. From word go a serious proposition. Elephant ear layback good and solid with great gear. Top pitch not as hard technically, but exposure great!. Felt as tenuous as anything. At top of first stance, felt satisfied, but the best was yet to come. Grooves brilliant, but really have to be jammed. Cut loose on final move, left hanging by one arm from a classic grit sloper! Great foot jam saved the day :-))

Hidden ?/Jul/03 Solo
Stefan Kruger 28/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Peter Meulemans
Different Steve ?/May/03 Lead
with Christina Ennis
Peakology ??/2003 Lead O/S
with cat
Chalky Cat ??/2003 2nd O/S
with Dom
samwelli 04/Sep/02 Lead O/S
with Reuben Brown
Phil West 17/Aug/02 2nd O/S
with Chris Tan
nickdonohue ?/Jun/02 Lead
with Ian Brenton, Kath Donohue
Hidden 21/May/02 Lead
chrishedgehog 12/May/02 Lead O/S
with Clare Wilkie
Hidden 02/May/02 Lead
petekeron ??/2002 Lead O/S
Budge 17/Sep/01 Lead O/S
with Mike Oates
Chris the Tall ?/Jul/01 Lead O/S
with Neil Brown
Hidden 07/May/01 Lead
chris warner ?/Jul/00 TR
Stone Muppet ??/2000 -
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Gibbon Bum
Hidden 24/Jul/99 2nd O/S
Alastair Hudson ??/1998 Lead
with Paul Potter
rurp ??/1996 Lead O/S
Roget 24/Aug/95 Solo rpt
Gordon Stainforth 06/Aug/95 AltLd
with John Cutcliffe
Hidden 12/Jul/95 Lead
Ian Archer 06/Mar/95 2nd O/S
with Robert Mirfin
brady ??/1995 2nd
with John Cameron
Hidden 27/Jun/92 2nd
RichardMc 03/May/92 2nd
with Jim Fisher
kato'sdad 28/Oct/90 Lead
with Dave McCarthy
andrew300169 ??/1990 -
Andy Say 22/Apr/89 Solo
Hidden ??/1989 -
Roget ??/1989 2nd O/S
with jim
steve prior ?/Aug/86 Lead O/S
with Chris S
Hidden 20/Mar/85 AltLd
Nigel Bond 08/Apr/84 Lead
with Charlie Leverton
charlesmfrench 12/Jul/83 Lead O/S
John Brayshaw 15/May/83 AltLd O/S
with Alfreton MC
Mark Kemball 16/Apr/83 Solo
Rob Davies ??/1981 AltLd


with Mick Moss
CrashMat Rob ??/1980 Lead O/S


tapley 29/Sep/79 Lead
with Chris Seymour, Alison Tapley
Nigel Bond 19/Jun/79 Lead
with Martin Crosby
babymoac ??/1978 2nd
with Mad martin
rogerskews ??/1976 -
with CMC Members
greenbuoy 11/Jun/72 AltLd
with Claire W, Bob Lister
Hidden 12/Oct/69 AltLd
mikej 18/Oct/67 AltLd
with Geoff Williams
mikej 09/Nov/66 AltLd dnf

Led pitch 1 but Keith ran out of daylight on pitch 2.

with Keith Gregson
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
iksander, DanChad, mapperley samurai, lem, SuperLee1985, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, papalazarou, schristophersmith, squicky, Ander, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 39
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 35
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set