|Crystal clear*||E1 5a|
|35m. Climb Start: Left of Raven Buttress is a gap and on the first face to the left of the gap is a spikey groove that trends left.|
Route Description: A leftward set of spikey blocks lead with difficulty to steep rough wall. Continued to a small bilberry ledge(2 poor wires) at 15 m. ( A very run out section) From the ledge take the left, more vegetated side to gain an awkward move up onto a poorly protected series of broken up moves (again 10+ metres run out!) Belay at obvious ledge.
Pitch is essentially 2, 15 metre sections of different style Each with poor protection. Finishes at the same ledge as the 1st pitch of Raven Buttress.
Comments: This was climbed by accident and was very much a case of "no way back". The moves in the lower section were serious and need a cool head as there wasnt much in the way of protection and i was too frightened to hang around and place anything. The ledge gives respite to pumped arms but is sorely lacking in meaningful protection. Climbing from there on is more broken up but with more pleasant moves. Finish as for Raven Buttress.
T. Wood & T Plaice 02/Jul/2011
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