75m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A belter of a route, possibly the best on this wall. Start right of Supermassive Blackhole and In the Line of Fire, a 7c+ to its right (not described).
1) 7a+, 25m. Climb the blocky start to a ledge. A crack-line points the way with increasing difficulty to a ledge below a V-groove. Ascend the groove in the left arete to a bolt belay on a ledge below the next pitch.
2) 7a, 25m. Follow the arete via some technical moves and some long reaches.
3) 7a, 25m. The amazing final arete is a cracking pitch and a fitting crescendo to this amazing route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Another great outing from the bottom of Twll Mawr, start to the right of Supermassive Black Hole F7a and In the Line of Fire F7c+.
Pitch 1 (25m) F7a+ climbs up to the blocky ledge to get established on the crackline which gets increasingly more difficult the higher you go. Gaining the ledge at the bottom of the clean cut groove is the goal, you will gain more brownie points by stepping 'in control' across onto this rather than slapping and wildly swinging for it! Climb the groove or Arete which is trickier than it looks to a bolt Belay at the base of the next pitch.
Pitch 2 (25m) F7a A great pitch with some reachy and balancey climbing following the line of the arete. Great moves from the ledge passing the final 2 bolts especially for the vertically challenged, you may have to jump or commit to some thin technical climbing. Bolt Belay.
Pitch 3 (25m) F7a A superb arete,again reachy and balancey climbing which will entertain and try and throw you off. 2 belay bolts on the Fin above on the Watford Gap track level.

NOTE: If you've enjoyed any of the bolted routes in Twll Mawr please consider donating to the North Wales Bolt Fund :-)

http://northwalesboltfund.webs.com/

Ian Lloyd-Jones, Sion McGuinness, Phil Dowthwaite, Andy Schofield 14/Jul/2011

Ticklists: Dinorwic Slate - Multi Pitch Sport Climbs, Slate Arêtes (sport), All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7a & 7a+, Slate Sport, Twll Mawr Big Wall 1000 Metre Challenge!.


ClimberDateStyle
Maynard 17/Sep AltLd O/S

Awesome route, beware as had to skip 2 moves on the first pitch because there is a massive loose chunk of slate, but first go on the top 2 pitches.

harold walmsley 07/Aug TR dnf

Shunted top pitch only so more DNS than DNF but didn't want to log it as a 7a+. Nice to know I can manage a 6c+/7a

danJBA 12/Jun Lead O/S

Rained off 3rd pitch

with Duncan
dan gibson 07/Jun AltLd
shed_hed 12/Oct/15 AltLd dog

Led P2. First pitch was nice but desperate, slipped off once seconding. P2 and P3 are fantastic and felt more like 6c+ but I thought P2 was rather reachy in places, so could easily feel harder if you're short.

dswansonlow 12/Oct/15 AltLd dog

Really good quality climbing on the top two pitches. I loved the final arete!! It got me on the first pitch crux- my feet got too weak....

redjerry 02/Jul/15 TR RP

A couple of trys to do pitch 1.

Hidden 21/Sep/14 AltLd dog
soph 03/Aug/13 AltLd

rest on first pitch - hard warm up! Pitches 2 & 3 steady, not reachy (I'm 5'2") and not 7a in my opinion.

with Andy Scott
Keendan 04/Jul/13 AltLd RP

Good team effort with Matt Rust. First pitch was very slimy, but doesn't detract from a class multipitch! Thanks Ian

rustaldo 04/Jul/13 AltLd dog

a fine route. P1 is the crux (lead dogged), with P2 and 3 a good number grade easier. some memorable moves throughout. a bit slimey on the day on P1. P2+3 onsight. 3stars.

with Dan Heath
Tom Livingstone 07/May/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3. Great fun, a cool crux on P1! Found the top two pitches easy for the grade, but I think that's something to do with 6"5' ape index! A bit dirty but will improve with traffic.

Dave Musgrove Jnr 01/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

P2&3

with Nic Sellars
Hidden 23/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
valecoastclimber 22/May/12 AltLd O/S
Alex Mason 02/Nov/11 Lead O/S

A great outing. Every pitch felt same grade to me, and several of the moves I found the hardest Matt reached past. Personally preferred this to BHS but both neo-classic outings.

with matt burdekin
Hidden 02/Nov/11 -
Hidden 05/Oct/11 AltLd
Glyn 26/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with Will Oates
willoates 26/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

hard 1st pitch 7a+ with a few really good moves in the middle. 3D 2nd pitch 7a. Brilliant 3rd pitch about 6C+

with Glyn
centurion05 04/Sep/11 AltLd dog

Pulled (Another?) flake off the first pitch. Its got one hard move which requires either very strong fingers or sticky rubber. I just couldn't do it without my foot popping off. The second and third pitches are great fun. I think 7a for them is very generous. Compared to Gerbil Abuse the route felt easier

with Calum
Hidden ?/Sep/11 2nd dnf
Hidden 29/Aug/11 Lead
Steve Long 08/Aug/11 Lead

The top two pitches are brilliant, First pitch less good and much harder. Could traverse in from the left to give a sustained route of consistent standard.

Hidden 03/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/11 2nd dog
ian Ll-J 14/Jul/11 Lead RP

First Ascent - an awesome trip from the bottom of Twll Mawr!

schof 14/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Utterly amazing! second ascent with phil. He broke a hold of the first pitch on the crux upping it to a definite 7a+, hard move for the big ledge. the top pitch is one of the best 7a's money could bolt. 5 stars

with Big phil
McGuinness 14/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Awesome! Three fantastic pitches of quality, varied climbing in a route that deserves to become a modern classic (and will hopefully make it into the new guidebook!).

with Ian ll-j
phil64 14/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Dirty first pitch thats hard, leads to a three star 2nd pitch which in turn leads to a FIVE STAR!!! top pitch. 7a+, 7a. 7a. Will clean up nicely after the bolt hole dust has washed off....2nd ascent

with andy schofield
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