Gwynedd > Twll Mawr >
 
Black Hole Sun*** 7a+

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[The line of Black Hole Sun, 3 kb]75m, 3 pitches. Another great outing from the bottom of Twll Mawr, start to the right of Supermassive Black Hole F7a and In the Line of Fire F7c+. Pitch 1 (25m) F7a+ climbs up to the blocky ledge to get established on the crackline which gets increasingly more difficult the higher you go. Gaining the ledge at the bottom of the clean cut groove is the goal, you will gain more brownie points by stepping 'in control' across onto this rather than slapping and wildly swinging for it! Climb the groove or Arete which is trickier than it looks to a bolt Belay at the base of the next pitch. Pitch 2 (25m) F7a A great pitch with some reachy and balancey climbing following the line of the arete. Great moves from the ledge passing the final 2 bolts especially for the vertically challenged, you may have to jump or commit to some thin technical climbing. Bolt Belay. Pitch 3 (25m) F7a A superb arete,again reachy and balancey climbing which will entertain and try and throw you off. 2 belay bolts on the Fin above on the Watford Gap track level.
Ian Lloyd-Jones, Sion McGuinness, Phil Dowthwaite, Andy Schofield 14/Jul/2011

Ticklists: Twll Mawr Sporting Challenge, Dinorwic Slate - Multi Pitch Sport Climbs, Slate Arêtes (sport).

Photo: The line of Black Hole Sun © ian Ll-J
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 23 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

rest on first pitch - hard warm up! Pitches 2 & 3 steady, not reachy (I'm 5'2") and not 7a in my opinion.
soph - AltLd - 03/Aug/13 with Andy Scott

Good team effort with Matt Rust. First pitch was very slimy, but doesn't detract from a class multipitch! Thanks Ian
Daniel Heath - AltLd RP - 04/Jul/13 with Matt Rust

a fine route. P1 is the crux (lead dogged), with P2 and 3 a good number grade easier. some memorable moves throughout. a bit slimey on the day on P1. P2+3 onsight. 3stars.
rustaldo - AltLd dog - 04/Jul/13 with Dan Heath

Led P1 and P3. Great fun, a cool crux on P1! Found the top two pitches easy for the grade, but I think that's something to do with 6"5' ape index! A bit dirty but will improve with traffic.
Tom Livingstone - AltLd O/S - 07/May/13 with Henry Francis

P2&3
Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Nic Sellars

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/12

valecoastclimber - AltLd O/S - 22/May/12

A great outing. Every pitch felt same grade to me, and several of the moves I found the hardest Matt reached past. Personally preferred this to BHS but both neo-classic outings.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/11 with matt burdekin

Hidden - 02/Nov/11

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Oct/11

Glyn - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/11 with Will Oates

hard 1st pitch 7a+ with a few really good moves in the middle. 3D 2nd pitch 7a. Brilliant 3rd pitch about 6C+
willoates - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/11 with Glyn

Pulled (Another?) flake off the first pitch. Its got one hard move which requires either very strong fingers or sticky rubber. I just couldn't do it without my foot popping off. The second and third pitches are great fun. I think 7a for them is very generous. Compared to Gerbil Abuse the route felt easier
centurion05 - AltLd dog - 04/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd dnf - Sep/11

Hidden - Lead - 29/Aug/11

The top two pitches are brilliant, First pitch less good and much harder. Could traverse in from the left to give a sustained route of consistent standard.
Steve Long - Lead - 08/Aug/11 with MIke Pycroft

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd dog - 02/Aug/11

First Ascent - an awesome trip from the bottom of Twll Mawr!
ian Ll-J - Lead RP - 14/Jul/11

Utterly amazing! second ascent with phil. He broke a hold of the first pitch on the crux upping it to a definite 7a+, hard move for the big ledge. the top pitch is one of the best 7a's money could bolt. 5 stars
schof - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/11 with Big phil

Awesome! Three fantastic pitches of quality, varied climbing in a route that deserves to become a modern classic (and will hopefully make it into the new guidebook!).
McGuinness - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/11 with Ian ll-j

Dirty first pitch thats hard, leads to a three star 2nd pitch which in turn leads to a FIVE STAR!!! top pitch. 7a+, 7a. 7a. Will clean up nicely after the bolt hole dust has washed off....2nd ascent
phil64 - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/11 with andy schofield

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, AndrewJamesCherry, Billg, rustaldo, samrad

Voting
Total votes cast 31
hard 7b0 of 16
7b0 of 16
easy 7b1 of 16
hard 7a+2 of 16
7a+9 of 16
easy 7a+1 of 16
hard 7a3 of 16
7a0 of 16
easy 7a0 of 16
3 Stars10 of 15
2 Stars5 of 15
1 Star0 of 15
0 Stars0 of 15
Bag of .....0 of 15
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Style of ascent

Lead4 of 23 (17.4%)
Followed3 of 23 (13.0%)
Alt Leads15 of 23 (65.2%)
Unknown1 of 23 (4.3%)

'Climbed'5 of 23 (21.7%)
clean O/S12 of 23 (52.2%)
clean RP2 of 23 (8.7%)
dogged3 of 23 (13.0%)
dnf1 of 23 (4.3%)