|Black Hole Sun||7a+|
|75m, 3 pitches. A belter of a route, possibly the best on this wall. Start right of Supermassive Blackhole and In the Line of Fire, a 7c+ to its right (not described). |
1) 7a+, 25m. Climb the blocky start to a ledge. A crack-line points the way with increasing difficulty to a ledge below a V-groove. Ascend the groove in the left arete to a bolt belay on a ledge below the next pitch.
2) 7a, 25m. Follow the arete via some technical moves and some long reaches.
3) 7a, 25m. The amazing final arete is a cracking pitch and a fitting crescendo to this amazing route. © ROCKFAX
Another great outing from the bottom of Twll Mawr, start to the right of Supermassive Black Hole F7a and In the Line of Fire F7c+. Pitch 1 (25m) F7a+ climbs up to the blocky ledge to get established on the crackline which gets increasingly more difficult the higher you go. Gaining the ledge at the bottom of the clean cut groove is the goal, you will gain more brownie points by stepping 'in control' across onto this rather than slapping and wildly swinging for it! Climb the groove or Arete which is trickier than it looks to a bolt Belay at the base of the next pitch. Pitch 2 (25m) F7a A great pitch with some reachy and balancey climbing following the line of the arete. Great moves from the ledge passing the final 2 bolts especially for the vertically challenged, you may have to jump or commit to some thin technical climbing. Bolt Belay. Pitch 3 (25m) F7a A superb arete,again reachy and balancey climbing which will entertain and try and throw you off. 2 belay bolts on the Fin above on the Watford Gap track level.
Ian Lloyd-Jones, Sion McGuinness, Phil Dowthwaite, Andy Schofield 14/Jul/2011
Photo: The line of Black Hole Sun © ian Ll-J