Rockfax Description
The left-hand crack leads steeply to a poor rest. Follow the pumpy lowest crack out left to finish passing a useful tree, or easier (4c) step up and foot traverse along the same crack. © Rockfax

FA. Ivan Waller 1929

Ticklists: Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, The Black Rocks 1949 Guide VS Challenge, Stonnis Allstars.

Hidden 01/Nov 2nd rpt
Cake 04/Oct Lead O/S
with Matt
LakesWinter 04/Oct 2nd
with Cake
lukehodson 06/Sep Lead O/S

Excellent. Hands in the break for the traverse. There's a couple of no hands rests with knee bars

with Heidi, Charlotte
mapperley samurai 12/Aug Lead O/S

I think it's better than the original. One off the Black Rock tick list. One for Paul's come back to list.

with Paul Bojko
Radical-G 28/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun 2nd O/S
Chris M 02/Jun AltLd
Hidden 25/May Lead O/S
Nick Wallis 09/May Lead O/S
with James Hall
belay bunny turned bad 01/May Lead O/S
with soph
ashtond6 01/May 2nd O/S
soph 01/May 2nd
boulderholder 18/Apr Lead O/S

Did the higher foot traverse.

TP 02/Apr -

had to hang on gear

with Ben H
amccann 27/Mar Lead O/S
with Nick
Nick1812P 27/Mar 2nd O/S
with speedy
Hidden 21/Mar 2nd rpt
Jonathan Hall 21/Mar Lead
Hidden 30/Nov/14 Lead
marclloyd77 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Traversed lowest break.

Juliette Edwards 27/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 18/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/14 Lead RP
Oliver Houston 13/Sep/14 2nd
CharlieMack 12/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Dan Peers
Hidden 09/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Heggie 27/Jul/14 Lead
with Pete Brook
Angus Taylor 14/Jul/14 Lead β

also climbed with some pre-placed gear, and found myself stood up in the jamming break before i realised that was the wrong place to be!

OliverRoss 02/Jun/14 Lead β

Did this with some gear already in. I agree with quarryboy. It's far too tempting to just stand up, instead of being exposed to a potential pumpfest.

with Craig Osborne
Quarryboy 26/May/14 Lead β

Bit of a kerfuffle with cams but was all cool in the end, what kind of deranged person would follow the crack line for handholds as opposed to just standing in it?

Alkis 26/May/14 2nd rpt
davewsargent 07/May/14 Lead O/S
with pete bush, andy neath
jwhereat 21/Apr/14 Lead


Peakphil 17/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Gill and Sparrow
Matt Cooke 24/Nov/13 Lead rpt
with Rosh
torsok 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Dez
Hidden 22/Sep/13 2nd
Brannock 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S


Hidden 08/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden 27/Aug/13 2nd
pearson9596 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Caroline Culwick, Lizzie Culwick
Hidden 21/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S
mrteale 17/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

lead 2nd pitch.

matthomas79 10/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Great climb felt physically easier than Birch Tree Wall, only seconded it but would have to be one of the more dangerous seconds I've done, falling off the foot traverse at the top would not be nice.

Tanner 01/Jul/13 Lead O/S
andyclimber 07/May/13 TR O/S
Davebryant 25/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Alex Taylor
andybirtwistle 20/Apr/13 Lead
with Keith Lonsdale
the power 15/Apr/13 2nd dnf
with rob
dr_botnik 15/Apr/13 Lead O/S

flowed along the start of the traverse on solid jams but for some reason stood up and found the balancy move to reach the tree quite nervy, traverse eased after, but I wish I'd persevered with the jams in break. Polished start.

karol dubas 07/Apr/13 Lead RP
with Pawel
MarkRoe 03/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Jake Young 02/Dec/12 Lead O/S
with Laura
lbarras 02/Dec/12 2nd O/S
with jake
Hidden 04/Nov/12 2nd
Curly Rich 04/Nov/12 Lead O/S

foot traverse

with Ollie
Matt Cooke 13/Oct/12 2nd β
with Rosh
dannyevos 01/Sep/12 TR O/S


with Steve Swanborough, Rick Clapham
Steve Swanborough 01/Sep/12 TR O/S
tgeh 25/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with dan geh
Dan Geh 25/Jul/12 2nd O/S
gingerwolf 01/Jul/12 2nd O/S
MikeDowsett 16/May/12 2nd
with John Harrison
Alex.M-M. 05/May/12 Lead O/S
mikehenesy 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Variation just as good as the original, thought it was at best a VS although I used the crack for my feet. Maybe I did it wrong?

with Paul Smith
LukeyG 06/Mar/12 Lead
matthewpjgrant 03/Mar/12 Lead O/S
kabutsu ??/2012 -
whitehouse_rhys ??/2012 Lead O/S
mbradberry2008 30/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Hands in crack, great climb!

flyinfrenchy 30/Nov/11 2nd O/S
Brown 06/Nov/11 Solo
with Lilifa, John
Exodus 06/Nov/11 Solo O/S
jonnybull ?/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

Brilliant climb. Mags' first hard lead on p2.

with Mags
Magie1981 16/Oct/11 AltLd
Hidden 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S
MartinWilliams87 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/11 Lead RP
Gambit 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Barney
Hidden 14/Jun/11 2nd O/S
spragglerocks 04/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Did half a hand traverse followed by half foot traverse - thanks Bruce!

with Bruce LMC
Dan724 31/May/11 Lead O/S
shouter 24/Apr/11 Lead
colin milton 23/Apr/11 Lead
with martin
Hidden 12/Apr/11 Lead O/S
bigdan050 08/Apr/11 Lead O/S

good route, pumped quite quickly

with Tosh
wishicud climbHVS 08/Apr/11 2nd

fingery start leading to amazing hand jam traverse over the tree. found it quite hard even as a 2nd.

Dirk Uhlig ??/2011 Lead O/S
climb the peak ??/2011 AltLd O/S
ollie_e ??/2011 -
migs493 22/Oct/10 Solo O/S

Exciting traverse past the tree!

Emma-Louise Anderson 20/Oct/10 Lead dog

Awesome. Delicate, balancey start. Did not realise the climb went up from the crux, spent ages trying to do a jamming traverse. Rested on my cam and then saw the jugs above me! Commiting traverse to the birch tree. Loved it.

with Wez Inskip, Adam Simms
Jim Slater 17/Oct/10 2nd rpt

Hand traverse this time.

Graeme Hammond 17/Oct/10 Lead rpt

nice, I did a variation on this once going up at the tree, with a rest I think

with Jim
Hidden 09/Oct/10 2nd O/S
greenclimb 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
ben_250 25/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Tom
tomthecoolperson 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Ben 250
joese7en 22/Sep/10 Lead O/S

started on Birch Tree Wall and traversed left under the flake to Birch Tree Wall Variations, super climb *** for sure!!!

grp 02/Sep/10 Lead dog
Hidden 05/Aug/10 Lead O/S
FlorianCastagne ?/Aug/10 Lead β
thomb 17/Jul/10 Lead
with Maddy
bennevis 12/May/10 TR
with Jon
Andy Peak 1 10/May/10 2nd
with pabage
pabbage 10/May/10 Lead O/S
Jethro ?/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 01/Feb/10 Lead β
M_Bell 30/Jan/10 2nd O/S
with Alun Freem
nia ??/2010 Lead
with Fred Mainwaring
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
drysori ??/2010 Lead
valentinesbabe 20/Sep/09 Lead dnf

Originally started doing Birch Tree Wall (VS) from the left hand crack, had a look and a tentative go at the traverse and decided the HVS (variations) actually looked easier...unfortunately ran out of steam real quick so lowered off

chumleywarner 20/Sep/09 TR β
MorganPreece 17/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Great route, found the best rest point ever next to the tree, foot jam and then let go!

with Jessy
Climber1806 17/Sep/09 2nd O/S

What a climb!! Campas on the slopers!!!!

with Morgan Preece
mic_b 08/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/09 2nd O/S
dan gibson 16/Jun/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 22/May/09 2nd O/S
AndyM-LVB 31/Jan/09 2nd dog

What a great route! Will try to lead it next time.

with Nicolas Tardy
koopa ??/2009 -
hrgcb ??/2009 -
keith leonard ??/2009 -
barni 30/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Dave barry
Pete Graham 16/Oct/08 Lead
with James Fleming
Alfredo 26/Sep/08 Lead β
with Ben H
tomB 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Jody
figfour 30/Aug/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/08 Lead
cmsg 12/Jul/08 AltLd rpt

Probably the third time I've been on this. At my urging, Tom did the version with the foot-traverse, which I consider to be really lovely.

with Tom Cattermole
Jim Slater 05/Jul/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/08 Lead O/S
HamishD 02/May/08 Lead O/S
with chris burn
thrutch ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
AntiGrav ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 01/Dec/07 Lead O/S
thrutch 18/Nov/07 AltLd O/S
with Matt
Matt Fry 11/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Budge 30/Aug/07 2nd rpt
with Carl Tiivas, Mike Oates
Si dH 18/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Really good route. I stood up by the tree since it seemed the obviosu thig nt odo, but still had my hands where my feet were when I did the original. The crux in to and starting along the slanting jamming crack were great.

with Neil Furniss
stp 17/Apr/07 Solo O/S

Different start, high (standard finish)

SGD 01/Mar/07 Lead O/S

Found this easier than Birch tree wall - and I seconded that....

with Jonathan
Owen W-G 03/Feb/07 Lead O/S

Foot-traversed break, above tree. Unseasonably hot day.

with Robin, Anthony & Jody
mshorter ??/2007 -
Oli 30/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Nov/06 2nd dog
mattyork2 26/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Budge 21/Sep/06 Lead dog


with Ludovic Laurioux, Mike Oates, Dave Valentine-Hagart
The Mountain Goat 11/Sep/06 2nd O/S
Somerset swede basher 11/Sep/06 Lead O/S

Traversed high with feet in the break, around Vs 4c like this?

with Jon Miles
petellis 01/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Aly
b.hayley ?/Jun/06 Lead
gripped01 ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Jules Turner
tatz45 ?/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with Dave Wheeler
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
chrisrogers ?/Oct/05 AltLd O/S
with Nic C
Hidden ?/Oct/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/05 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Oct/04 Lead
Hidden 01/Sep/04 Solo
adam carless ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S

Took the easier high traverse above the tree.

Hidden ?/Jun/04 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Budge 01/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Mike Oates
Hidden 03/Mar/04 2nd
Hidden 22/Aug/03 Solo
Hidden ?/Jul/03 Lead
Budge 27/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with Mike Oates
Peakology ??/2003 Lead O/S
with cat
Chalky Cat ??/2003 2nd O/S
with Dom
Dave Bond ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Simon Wren
chrishedgehog 17/Jun/01 Lead O/S
with Keith, Otis, Collo for some of it!
Roget 29/Apr/00 Solo rpt

Traversed the upper break

Roget 08/May/98 Lead O/S

Traversed the upper break

with jon
Hidden 24/Sep/97 Solo
CrashMat Rob 10/Jul/97 Lead O/S
with Bruce
Hidden 04/Jun/96 Lead
Hidden 12/Jul/95 Lead
Hidden 11/Apr/95 Solo
Chris Ellis 03/Aug/93 Lead
with Rachel Nicolson
Hidden 12/Jul/93 Solo
charlesmfrench 23/May/93 Solo O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/92 Solo
Hidden 06/Sep/91 Solo
Hidden 08/Nov/86 Solo
Dave Musgrove 21/Jun/86 Lead
with David
eroica64 17/May/85 Lead O/S
with Burt Simmons
Hidden 28/Feb/85 Lead
Ken Taylor 20/Sep/82 AltLd
RichardMc 26/Jun/82 -
with Betty Seifert, Dave Langmead
Nigel Bond 06/Jun/82 AltLd
with Charlie Leverton
rogerskews ??/1976 -
with CMC Members
Andy Say ??/1973 Lead
mikej 09/Jul/72 Lead
with E
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hirving, SuperLee1985, Hidden, papalazarou, vix, Tom Packer, timharrison, ChrisBrooke, Hidden, Hidden, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Mr Tickle, Hidden
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 31
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set