Hamilton, Whillance and Paul Braithwaite Aug/1984
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
An awesome route. Ended up just having to second due to being ill and leg in a lot of pain. Got all of it clean except having a hold snap on me at the third belay. Great fun adventure. Last pitch was very licheny!
Awesome stuff! Glad we went for this route, never thought I'd enjoy climbing lichen-y crumbly sandstone so much, felt like a real adventure. Lead all pitches, well psyched. Must come back for more
Led after ascent of original route. Fantastic exposure and a brilliant experience, quite birdy, though mostly possible to avoid/scare away. Thought pitch lengths in guide didn't quite match up. As follows Pitch 1: 30-40m 4c - chimney full of birds and death blocks climbed buttress on left instead to belay. Pitch 2: easy 5c - split into 2 as there's a long low cave at ~27m before the 'big cave' at more like 40m. Sandy and thuggy. Bigger gear would've helped. Exposure starts to kick in. Pitch 3: 5b - Great and unexpectedly easy to exit cave, wandering mantles through ledges above. mixed rock quality. Pitch 4: easy 5c - stupendous pitch, huge exposure on the head wall, lovely climbing, rock lichenous but mostly sound and clean. Top out with care and birds.
|Simon Allcock||??/2014||AltLd O/S||
led pitch 1. lost on pitch 3 (ended up on West face); pitch 4 covered in lichen and felt harder than pitch 2. v pumpy. full range of birds encountered.
Not too birdy, rock improves with height, sustained a the grade. Top pitch fairly conventional E3 on good rock, but very lichened.
|Just Another Dave||?/Apr/03||AltLd O/S||
So much better than East Face Original: consistent standard throughout, fantastic line and exposure. Got several facefulls of fulmar spew from point-blank range though. Stunk for days.