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An awesome route. Ended up just having to second due to being ill and leg in a lot of pain. Got all of it clean except having a hold snap on me at the third belay. Great fun adventure. Last pitch was very licheny!
CharlieMack - 2nd O/S - 24/Aug/15 with Angus
Awesome stuff! Glad we went for this route, never thought I'd enjoy climbing lichen-y crumbly sandstone so much, felt like a real adventure. Lead all pitches, well psyched. Must come back for more
anguskille - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/15 with Charlie Mackie
Hidden - AltLd - 13/Aug/15
Led after ascent of original route. Fantastic exposure and a brilliant experience, quite birdy, though mostly possible to avoid/scare away.
Thought pitch lengths in guide didn't quite match up. As follows
Pitch 1: 30-40m 4c - chimney full of birds and death blocks climbed buttress on left instead to belay.
Pitch 2: easy 5c - split into 2 as there's a long low cave at ~27m before the 'big cave' at more like 40m. Sandy and thuggy. Bigger gear would've helped. Exposure starts to kick in.
Pitch 3: 5b - Great and unexpectedly easy to exit cave, wandering mantles through ledges above. mixed rock quality.
Pitch 4: easy 5c - stupendous pitch, huge exposure on the head wall, lovely climbing, rock lichenous but mostly sound and clean. Top out with care and birds.
salix - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/15 with Amy
led pitch 1. lost on pitch 3 (ended up on West face); pitch 4 covered in lichen and felt harder than pitch 2. v pumpy. full range of birds encountered.
Simon Allcock - AltLd O/S - 2014 with Wilki
Not too birdy, rock improves with height, sustained a the grade. Top pitch fairly conventional E3 on good rock, but very lichened.
Adam Long - AltLd - 26/May/13 with Ben Bransby
So much better than East Face Original: consistent standard throughout, fantastic line and exposure. Got several facefulls of fulmar spew from point-blank range though. Stunk for days.
Just Another Dave - AltLd O/S - Apr/03 with Jo Bertalot