Monmouthshire > Wyndcliffe Quarry >
 
Shin Gi Tai** 6c+

Adjacent Climbs
<< Hong Kong Garden
 
Mark My Words >>
16m. Bolted direct version of SGT, starting between Bogger Bob and SGT's original start. Possibly retro-bolts the start of Hong Kong Garden.
Gordon Jenkin 15/May/2011
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 59 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead rpt - 13/Apr/14

Petar Samkov - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14

Wish there was more stuff on this wall, nice n clean.
Tom Brierley Gore - Lead rpt - 29/Mar/14 with Shijing Hu, Maria Brierley

Felt straight forward up until the last crack section
monsteratt - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/14

Pleasant, such a nice wall. A very soft touch though, so many places to rest... feels like you could stop to have lunch half way up.
Tom Brierley Gore - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/14 with Shijing Hu

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/14

Duncan Turner - 2nd dog - 08/Mar/14 with Rich ray

Duncan Turner - 2nd rpt - 08/Mar/14

I'll be a bit fitter next time... Great route. Daft place for the lower off though.
richardr - Lead dog - 08/Mar/14 with Duncan

Finally managed to clip the abseil station. And to pull a loose hold off somewhere low down on the left.
pheotleyr - Lead RP - 01/Mar/14 with Alex

Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/14 with Peter H

Hidden - TR dog - 22/Feb/14

Gibbo - Lead - 22/Feb/14 with Claire Chipperfield, Tom Gibbison

Would like to claim I did this, but I got too pumped trying to clip the abseil station with the right hand in a wet crack.
pheotleyr - Lead dog - 16/Feb/14 with Caleb, Neil

Dogged it to put up the draws/dry some wet holds. Went second time no problems. Crux is getting off the floor! Following the natural line of flakes and edges slightly to the left is lovely 6b+
Kemics - Lead RP - 16/Feb/14 with Peter

Not quite sure where the 6c+ version goes but the 6c route was nice, if soft
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 23/Nov/13 with Peter

What I did definitely wasn't 6c+, more like 6b+ / 6c. Great route with a somewhat silly step left to the abseil station to finish.
pheotleyr - TR O/S - 23/Nov/13 with Ben

Doh! Great route.
Jon_Warner - Lead dog - 16/Nov/13 with Jenni, Dave Pattinson

Cool route. Props up to anyone who climbs crack pure without undercut!
derico - Lead O/S - 16/Nov/13 with Sadact

2nd go. 6c version (staying left as you get up onto the ledge at 2/3 height rather than heading straight for the crack).
bonelessivar - Lead RP - 16/Jul/13 with Alan

wurzelinzummerset - 2nd dog - 16/Jul/13 with Ric

jrccrosby - 08/Jun/13 with Federico

took a far right line at the top, avoiding the crack.
chris687 - Lead dog - 17/Mar/13

Mel's first lead belay so pumped out waiting for slack on every bolt. Should go next time no drama. Really nice climbing and a legit 2 star route. Crux is clipping the anchor?
Kemics - Lead dog - 17/Feb/13 with Mel

slugger5uk - 2nd RP - 2013

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/12

patrickc - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/12 with Sue

Hidden - Lead rpt - 27/Sep/12

About F6b+
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/12 with Clare

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Tom Harrison

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/12

6b+ / 6C tops
tombeasley - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/12

good interesting moves through out and vaired
brices - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Andy Brice

Felt more like 6b+ ish, nevertheless a good route!
stevelucocq - Lead O/S - 19/May/12 with RichC

will be back for another attempt hopefully!
Jenny Seaborne - TR dog - 13/Apr/12

1st redpoint - fell off the final move o my first attempt. Unless thihs is supposed to be a highly eliminate line, it isn't anywhere near 6c+
hms - Lead RP - 13/Apr/12 with kate, Jenny

vickydavies - Lead RP - 26/Mar/12 with Alex Harper

Hidden - TR dog - 25/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 17/Mar/12

Retro on-sight. Feeling a lot easier today!
xcomm - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/12

finally ticked after having worked out a sequence for the top section for the vertically challenged!! A brilliant route
shazza65 - Lead RP - 14/Feb/12 with johncorber

6c? Nice, but wandered to the left at about bolt 3. Clips alerady in & that was crucial!
Phil Murray - Lead RP - 05/Feb/12 with Steve Wright

Hidden - TR - 28/Jan/12

RP3: really nice route and climbed in glorious winter sunshine wearing t-shirt
Jon Didymus - Lead RP - 28/Jan/12 with Nick

Did all the moves, lacking stamina...
Fatboy1000 - TR dog - 15/Jan/12 with crispin

Good route! Though easy 6c
Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12 with bc

Onsight!! I couldn't comment on the grade, I don't climb much sport and never anything as tough as this. Brilliant climb, lovely movements and very pumped at the top. I followed line of least resistance and found myself to the right of last bolt and lower off. Very happy with this. Addendum, not 6c+, more like 6b+
puppythedog - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/11 with sara

clean on second attempt. Great route. Easy 6c+ or maybe 6c
saraguti - Lead rpt - 28/Oct/11

chris sm - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11 with Laurel Bowler

Redpoint 3rd attempt. Hard start and similar finish.
xcomm - Lead RP - 22/Oct/11

Tim M - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/11 with Emma

climbergg - 2nd - 10/Sep/11 with cheesesarnie

A great route, although the logical way to climb it wanders up the face. From the lower ledge I climbed up leftwards towards bogger bob then came back right to finish up the crack of SGT. Like this I thought it was more like soft 6c than 6c+. Lovely climbing though!
al99 - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Martina Zandonella

MarkyMark_7 - Lead dog - Aug/11

Hidden - Lead RP - 24/Jul/11

Needs its own lower-off.
Paul Robertson - Lead β - 10/Dec/08 with Guy Percival

guy xavier percival - Lead O/S - 10/Dec/08 with paul

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jan/08

FA
Nigel Coe - 2nd - 23/Sep/90 with Gordon Jenkin

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Jon_Warner, Hidden, k_k, Dax

Voting
Total votes cast 44
hard 7a0 of 23
7a0 of 23
easy 7a0 of 23
hard 6c+1 of 23
6c+4 of 23
easy 6c+3 of 23
hard 6c6 of 23
6c3 of 23
easy 6c6 of 23
3 Stars0 of 21
2 Stars19 of 21
1 Star2 of 21
0 Stars0 of 21
Bag of .....0 of 21
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Style of ascent

Lead46 of 59 (78.0%)
Followed6 of 59 (10.2%)
Toproped6 of 59 (10.2%)
Unknown1 of 59 (1.7%)

'Climbed'5 of 59 (8.5%)
clean O/S24 of 59 (40.7%)
clean β1 of 59 (1.7%)
clean rpt5 of 59 (8.5%)
clean RP12 of 59 (20.3%)
dogged12 of 59 (20.3%)