16m. Bolted direct version of SGT, starting between Bogger Bob and SGT's original start. Possibly retro-bolts the start of Hong Kong Garden. It's generally agreed that the route is overgraded: possibly only 6b+

Gordon Jenkin 15/May/2011

philhilo 22/May Lead O/S
with Helen E
leigh 14/May Lead G/U

Fell and bottom, came back down and got it clean

with John
shaunstar9 08/May Lead dog

Working the moves....sustained but doable....got to get this clean....probably 6c.

with Kev
Hidden 05/May Lead O/S
MD 24/Apr Lead O/S

Really good route 6b+ though.

with Jo
Happy Wanderer 24/Apr 2nd dog
with Mike D
Robin Nichols 23/Apr 2nd O/S
with Simon, Jim, Roger
Roget 23/Apr Lead O/S
with robin
Josh Lewis 09/Apr Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Apr Lead G/U
steve L 09/Apr Lead rpt
vertigo 07/Apr Lead β

Agree with 6b+. It looks harder from the ground! Nice though.

with Eric
ericinbristol 07/Apr Lead O/S

6b+ max. Really enjoyable.

Hidden 02/Apr Lead rpt
luke glaister 31/Mar Lead rpt

Yeh. I'm going with 6b+ on this. To many rests to get 6c for me. S.g.t 2 is more like 6c. It's more sustained than this and does this routes crux. Both really good and 2**s tho.

steve L 25/Mar Lead O/S
with Nicky Price
Tomas P 12/Mar Lead O/S
with Aelita
Stanners 05/Mar Lead O/S
with Gordon Jenkin, Mark Davis
Hidden ?/Mar Lead
Josh Lewis 28/Feb Lead O/S
simo 28/Feb Lead RP
Gibbo 23/Feb Lead
with Ed Wright
Bristoldave 19/Jan Lead

Its possible to make it pretty solid 6c+ if you eliminate the top crack! About as contrived as it gets tho.

with Ben, colin
LITTLE SAM 19/Jan Lead O/S

Did on Trad as description in Lower Wye Valley guide describes

with carl wartkins
Carl Watkins 19/Jan Lead rpt
with Sam T
Dan Jenkin 20/Dec/15 Lead O/S
with Gordon Jenkin
evhall 11/Dec/15 Lead dog
with Tim Bray
kenneM 23/Nov/15 Lead O/S
with Chris
Hidden 21/Nov/15 TR
Samuel P 21/Nov/15 Lead O/S

Nice route, deserving of its stars. But 6b+ at most, I don't understand why it was ever given 6c+!

with Tommy
evhall 31/Oct/15 Lead dog
with Tim Bray
Hidden 25/Oct/15 Lead rpt
ez does it 25/Oct/15 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Oct/15 Lead RP
Aaron Lines 11/Oct/15 Lead dog
Hidden 04/Oct/15 Lead dog
Rosea Day 26/Sep/15 Lead RP
cornishben 23/Sep/15 Lead O/S


Wise 23/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Nice moves. Grade miles out, its about 6bb.

with Ben
Hidden 13/Sep/15 Lead dog
FreddoT 15/Aug/15 Lead RP
danbirkby 07/Aug/15 Lead RP
with SteveB
luke glaister 04/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Really good route. Best at the cliff that I've done. 6c left of the bolts. To the move right to the crack. 6c+ up the overhanging crack all the the way. I did the 6c but wasn't to know till after. Well pleased to get the chains and getting both in before letting go. Lol.

danbirkby 31/Jul/15 Lead dog
with SteveB, Gordon
just one more 31/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Good, but soft

with Gordon P, Dan Birkby
Hidden 25/Jul/15 Lead dog
Hidden 16/Jul/15 Lead rpt
wurzelinzummerset 29/Jun/15 Lead RP

The 6c way (from the 2012 Wye supplement, although the description's not too clear). Straight up just left of the bolts until stood on the thin ledge, then move right along the ledge, below the last two bolts, into the crack , then up the crack to finish.

with Ric
jungle 27/Jun/15 Lead dog
emdawes 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S
hutchay 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Loved this route, nice crimping and rock-overs

with Steph
Hidden 30/May/15 2nd dog
jungle 30/May/15 Lead dog
Radical-G 30/May/15 TR RP

Definitely 6c, not +. Excellent route but the final foothold is somewhat polished, requiring some cunning or crimpy clipping

Hidden 30/May/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/May/15 Lead rpt
wurzelinzummerset 09/May/15 TR RP

Just need to lead it now.

with Ric
afrosam 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/15 Lead rpt
Andrew171 18/Apr/15 Lead β
with mike steele perkins
MikeSP 18/Apr/15 TR dog
stevoland 14/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Use me 'stiffy' to clip the anchor (snigger)

Hidden 01/Apr/15 TR dog
Ollie B 31/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with A.Rosier
simo 25/Mar/15 Lead dog
RichyBOYY 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S

awesome route - 6c i reckon

with Ben M
AlexRenshaw 22/Mar/15 Lead
with Ted Lister
Benzo 22/Mar/15 2nd dog
with Ric
Spillers 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S
rhys mence 07/Mar/15 Lead

Fell on last move

elliptic 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Nicky
Hidden 21/Feb/15 Lead RP
sideshow84 18/Jan/15 Lead O/S

First Onsight of grade, defo 6c max. But will take the tick as wasnt a walk over ;)

Hidden 18/Jan/15 Lead β
Hidden 18/Jan/15 Lead β
Jonnie Watkins ?/Jan/15 Lead β
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
TomJ 20/Dec/14 Lead O/S

very good in the December sun! Mid/low end 6c seems right grade level for path of least resistance

with Rick
shoulders 19/Dec/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Dec/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Dec/14 Lead O/S
clams ?/Dec/14 Lead dog

Messed up the finger jams near the top

clams ?/Dec/14 Lead RP
kelliroberts3 29/Nov/14 Lead
with Jim Tan, Peter Rigby
Carl Watkins 15/Nov/14 Lead O/S
tobydunford 09/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Ade7 31/Oct/14 Lead rpt

Second go

with Sam C
Hidden 31/Oct/14 TR dog
Ian Bell 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Tania T
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead rpt
wurzelinzummerset 09/Aug/14 TR dog

Got all the moves second go on top rope with one slip low down. Think I could get it on lead, but the first half is just about at my current limit. The crack is straightforward once you find the jams.

with Max
Legs 09/Aug/14 Lead RP
tom0129 26/Jul/14 TR dog
pad-rat 25/Jul/14 Lead RP
with luke
Luuuuuke 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with martin, josh
Braintax 07/Jun/14 Lead dog
Walvis 07/Jun/14 TR dnf
with Dan
Hidden ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Billg 29/Apr/14 Lead
with Bob Brewer
Hidden 27/Apr/14 Lead β
Hidden 27/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Petar Samkov 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Tom Brierley Gore 29/Mar/14 Lead rpt

Wish there was more stuff on this wall, nice n clean.

monsteratt 23/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Felt straight forward up until the last crack section

Tom Brierley Gore 23/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Pleasant, such a nice wall. A very soft touch though, so many places to rest... feels like you could stop to have lunch half way up.

tommccluskey 19/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Stayed right away from the flakes but that still wasn't as hard as the start of clipping the belay so probably soft still. Managed 3 heel hooks though so must be a pretty good route!

with Beth
Duncan Turner 08/Mar/14 2nd dog
Duncan Turner 08/Mar/14 2nd rpt
richardr 08/Mar/14 Lead dog

I'll be a bit fitter next time... Great route. Daft place for the lower off though.

with Duncan
pheotleyr 01/Mar/14 Lead RP

Finally managed to clip the abseil station. And to pull a loose hold off somewhere low down on the left.

with Alex
Alex Winter 01/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Peter H
Hidden 22/Feb/14 TR dog
Gibbo 22/Feb/14 Lead
with Claire Chipperfield, Tom Gibbison
pheotleyr 16/Feb/14 Lead dog

Would like to claim I did this, but I got too pumped trying to clip the abseil station with the right hand in a wet crack.

with Caleb, Neil
Kemics 16/Feb/14 Lead RP

Dogged it to put up the draws/dry some wet holds. Went second time no problems. Crux is getting off the floor! Following the natural line of flakes and edges slightly to the left is lovely 6b+

with Peter
pscholl ??/2014 Lead dog
Cheese Monkey 23/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Not quite sure where the 6c+ version goes but the 6c route was nice, if soft

with Peter
pheotleyr 23/Nov/13 TR O/S

What I did definitely wasn't 6c+, more like 6b+ / 6c. Great route with a somewhat silly step left to the abseil station to finish.

with Ben
Jon_Warner 16/Nov/13 Lead dog

Doh! Great route.

with Jenni, Dave Pattinson
derico 16/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Cool route. Props up to anyone who climbs crack pure without undercut!

with Sadact
bonelessivar 16/Jul/13 Lead RP

2nd go. 6c version (staying left as you get up onto the ledge at 2/3 height rather than heading straight for the crack).

with Alan
wurzelinzummerset 16/Jul/13 2nd dog
with Ric
jrccrosby 08/Jun/13 TR dog
chris687 17/Mar/13 Lead dog

took a far right line at the top, avoiding the crack.

Kemics 17/Feb/13 Lead dog

Mel's first lead belay so pumped out waiting for slack on every bolt. Should go next time no drama. Really nice climbing and a legit 2 star route. Crux is clipping the anchor?

with Mel
slugger5uk ??/2013 2nd RP
richiebongo ??/2013 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
Hidden 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S
patrickc 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with Sue
Hidden 27/Sep/12 Lead rpt
bpmclimb 21/Sep/12 Lead O/S

About F6b+

with Clare
_m.cox_ 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
tombeasley 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S

6b+ / 6C tops

brices 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

good interesting moves through out and vaired

with Andy Brice
stevelucocq 19/May/12 Lead O/S

Felt more like 6b+ ish, nevertheless a good route!

with RichC
jas128 13/Apr/12 TR dog

will be back for another attempt hopefully!

Hidden 13/Apr/12 Lead RP
vickydavies 26/Mar/12 Lead RP
with Alex Harper
Hidden 25/Mar/12 TR dog
Hidden 17/Mar/12 Lead RP
J1_TOV 03/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Retro on-sight. Feeling a lot easier today!

Hidden 01/Mar/12 Lead RP
shazza65 14/Feb/12 Lead RP

finally ticked after having worked out a sequence for the top section for the vertically challenged!! A brilliant route

Phil Murray 05/Feb/12 Lead RP

6c? Nice, but wandered to the left at about bolt 3. Clips alerady in & that was crucial!

with Steve Wright
Hidden 28/Jan/12 TR
Didymus 28/Jan/12 Lead RP

RP3: really nice route and climbed in glorious winter sunshine wearing t-shirt

with Nick
Fatboy1000 15/Jan/12 TR dog

Did all the moves, lacking stamina...

with crispin
Stone Muppet 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Good route! Though easy 6c

with bc
puppythedog 26/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Onsight!! I couldn't comment on the grade, I don't climb much sport and never anything as tough as this. Brilliant climb, lovely movements and very pumped at the top. I followed line of least resistance and found myself to the right of last bolt and lower off. Very happy with this. Addendum, not 6c+, more like 6b+

with sara
saraguti 28/Oct/11 Lead rpt

clean on second attempt. Great route. Easy 6c+ or maybe 6c

chris sm 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Laurel Bowler
J1_TOV 22/Oct/11 Lead RP

Redpoint 3rd attempt. Hard start and similar finish.

Tim M 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Emma
climbergg 10/Sep/11 2nd
al99 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S

A great route, although the logical way to climb it wanders up the face. From the lower ledge I climbed up leftwards towards bogger bob then came back right to finish up the crack of SGT. Like this I thought it was more like soft 6c than 6c+. Lovely climbing though!

MarkyMark_7 ?/Aug/11 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead RP
Paul Robertson 10/Dec/08 Lead β

Needs its own lower-off.

guy xavier percival 10/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with paul
Hidden 29/Jan/08 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 23/Sep/90 2nd


Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
zimpara, Hidden, Hidden, Tom Gale, Hidden, Hidden, Jon_Warner, Hidden, k_k, Dax
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 42
Style of ascent
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set