UKC

20m.

Rockfax Description
A classic piece of roof climbing, pumpy and bold though only a bit harder than The Sloth if you are strong. Climb the wall to a thread then traverse the flake to its end and make a couple of strenuous pulls on less generous holds to reach easy ground. Cams behind the creaky flakes in the roof are a bad idea. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Simpkins 1960.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50 , The Roaches - Routes Graded List , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Ultimate E2 ticklist , 3 Star Graded , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The List , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Climbs With Animal Names , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , East and West Top 25

Feedback

User Date Notes
Joel Sims 26 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: If you can do FBD, this should be manageable as long as you don't faff.
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βeta: If you can do FBD, this should be manageable as long as you don't faff.
Daniel Grout 18 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Creaky creaky
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βeta: Creaky creaky
pep 1 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Found this lots harder than the sloth/FBD took me a few attempts to get the last jug!
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βeta: Found this lots harder than the sloth/FBD took me a few attempts to get the last jug!
Pythonist 21 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Totally agree, Davros. This is the Sloth's big brother, and not all that much harder. Good juggy holds, just keeping going and you'll find something! Not sure how Flying Buttress Direct gets down-graded to HVS when it's not that much easier than Wombat!
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βeta: Totally agree, Davros. This is the Sloth's big brother, and not all that much harder. Good juggy holds, just keeping going and you'll find something! Not sure how Flying Buttress Direct gets down-graded to HVS when it's not that much easier than Wombat!
Davros the Psyched 30 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Only slightly harder than the Sloth. Place gear from the break, have a breather then climbing the roof only takes 10 seconds.
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βeta: Only slightly harder than the Sloth. Place gear from the break, have a breather then climbing the roof only takes 10 seconds.
mark s 14 Jul, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: no chance its a jug fest all the way
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βeta: no chance its a jug fest all the way
Robo 13 Jul, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Whats this about a flake snapping off? Someone told me it's now E3/4...
βeta?
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βeta: Whats this about a flake snapping off? Someone told me it's now E3/4...

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Roaches Upper Tier

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Voting
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Votes cast 90
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High 5b
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High 5a
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Votes cast 87
Votes cast 80
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Jewel of Corruption

Grade: E2 5b ***
(The Hanging Stone)

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