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Wombat*** E2 5b

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[Wombat, the Roaches, 3 kb]20m. A classic piece of roof climbing, pumpy and bold though not especially technical. Climb the wall to a thread then traverse the flake to its end and make a couple of strenuous pulls on less generous holds to reach easy ground. All very antipodean. © ROCKFAX
FA. Mike Simpkins 1960

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Photo: Wombat, the Roaches © JGW
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 184 logbooks, and on 65 wishlists.

JayAyBee - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14

olly12344 - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/14 with Johnny

Lead on Olly's gear. Put a massive smile on my face. Fantastic!
funsized - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/14 with Olly

Frank the Husky - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/13

Fun unprotected dyno through bottom crux, then pure jug pulling through overhang, great fun. Top was a lovely calm after the storm.
msoldn - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/13 with Richard

really good and it gives you such a great buz
8athomas - TR O/S - 07/Jul/13

Hidden - TR dog - 06/Jul/13

henry francis - Lead β - 02/Jul/13

The start is never 5b, solid 5c and even harder if you're short. Looks like a small hold might have gone on the right edge of the flake.
spidermonkey09 - Lead dnf - 27/Jun/13 with Ben Tanner

Very commiting moves thought the roof, shame the top half is so poor.
RFWilkie - Lead O/S - 27/May/13

In approach shoes.. In the dark... with a head torch... Awesome!!
Stefan_Morris - 2nd O/S - 24/Feb/13 with AndrewJamesCherry

AndrewJamesCherry - Lead O/S - 2013 with James "The Machine" Salisbury

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - TR dog - 2013

saffy - 2013

Great upside down fun to second.
teamrob - 2nd dog - 07/Oct/12 with Ramsey, Ollie

Hidden - 2nd dog - 07/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - 08/Sep/12

Haydn Jones - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/12 with pep

Run out after the roof
aidanb - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/12

crux is v.early
Mark Warnett - Lead O/S - Aug/12

WillDoyle - 2nd RP - 23/Jul/12

Great roof, shame about the rest.
TommityP - Lead O/S - Jul/12

Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 04/Jun/12 with lee mercer

Again, not so tough as it looks, though damp, vegetated and run out at the top. As a second, tho . .
clipskipper - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Andy Gardner

Wet and green after the lip, was amazing until then.
BRoe - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12 with whitehouse_rhys, Rob L

kabutsu - 2nd - 02/Jun/12

Took ages to work out the bouldery start, and even longer to commit to doing it. No way is that 5b! The roof was really enjoyable. Overall fair for E2
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Steve Shenton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12

Too hard for me even on second. The start of the climb was the hardest part - long reach from poor holds.
DaveMo - 2nd dog - 25/Mar/12 with Will Tarran

1 rest. Great lead by Ramsey!
Chris Sansum - 2nd dog - 24/Mar/12 with Ramsey Villanueva

Mike W - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/12

Hidden - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Great little route.
Jon Read - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Jordan B

Great roof climbing, good holds all the way, a shame about the grotty top
Si dH - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11 with Neil Furniss

Stig - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11 with Greg

pumpy as hell, fell 3 times and then was too knackered to go again. still looking for a decent hold on the face to aid the pull through... definatly will finish one day!
minirollsrule - 2nd dnf - 14/Jul/11 with Tim Nixon

shafiq lalloo - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/11

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/11 with Anna

rikbattye - Lead rpt - 01/Jul/11

Hannes B - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/11 with Sandra & Pascal

Main roof section felt easier than the sloth! Start is definately the crux. Good route.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Mike

BeccaSnowden - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Mike

pipof747 - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/11

craig naylor - 2nd - 01/Jun/11 with nick

conversely to other comments i found the roof much harder than the start sequence, though im not practiced at overhangs! awesome climb though massively pumped after!
PerrinT - TR - 08/May/11 with RUMC

Interestingly the start was technically the hardest part for me. Took several tries to reach the first break. Reached over the lip and threw a silly hand jam in the crack. This went and so did my last cam. Decent fall.
Daniel Heath - Lead dnf - 26/Mar/11

sweet ass route. start was the crux but coming over the roof was bold!
Alistair Corbett - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/11 with ben peake

Hidden - Lead dnf - Mar/11

Rory Shaw - 2011

sgl0jd - 2011

really nice moves on the overhang, flowed well. shame the top half is covered in heather!
Bill Lawrence - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10 with tommy martin

Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/10 with D. Rylett

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10

Jugfest! Crux is the start but still steady...great fun!!
drewish - 2nd β - 01/Aug/10 with SteveE9

Second time ive led this and it's just as much fun.
Adam Moroz - Lead rpt - 24/Jul/10 with john (Krank)

beci tointen - Lead O/S - Jul/10 with Jamie Kean

lukea - Lead O/S - Jun/10 with dan, Al

westaway - Lead O/S - 20/May/10

CharlieMack - 2nd rpt - 18/May/10 with Rik Battye

rikbattye - Lead O/S - 18/May/10 with Charlie Mackie

ACE, found the start hard, plenty of big holds on the roof though
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 15/May/10 with Richard

Gareth Clendinning (UBMC) - 2nd RP - 28/Apr/10 with James Kay

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/10

mark s - Lead - 22/Apr/10 with andi t

pete lead like it was a v'diff!!!
davewsargent - 2nd dog - 18/Apr/10 with peter sargent

mic_b - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/10 with Michelle

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Apr/10

jonnyboy - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/10 with Ben Wolstenholme

John Roberts (JR) - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/10 with Simon Hudson

Hidden - Lead - 2010

pie_eater_pete - 2010

ozbaker - TR dog - 2010

dmoir - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/09 with nilsamelinckx

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/09

Terrifying!!!
Mr Wild - Solo - 15/Jul/09

Birdo - Lead dog - 11/Jul/09 with Ed Whitehead

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead - 26/Jun/09

will6459 - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd dog - 31/May/09

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Apr/09

TiffTiff - Lead β - 26/Apr/09 with Big A

craig d - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Simon Kincaid

CharlieMack - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/09 with William Harling

Fell off before reached good gear, ripped one small nut placement and bounced on floor
MattT88 - Lead dnf - 14/Apr/09 with Andy Knight

tatz45 - Lead β - 13/Apr/09 with Jamie Tattersall

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/09

GPN - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Annette

Nicolas Duboust - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/09 with Danny

Bristoldave - Lead β - 05/Apr/09 with CarolineH

simonp - Lead O/S - Apr/09 with Nicki Hearne

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 15/Mar/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/09

Wet hold ont lip. The top slab was yukky and green.
eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/09 with Geoff

koopa - 2009

flyboy86 - Lead dnf - 2009 with Nick Kennedy

Hidden - Lead dog - 14/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/08

Will_he_fall - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/08 with si

Bit too hungover for steep roofs and found the first crux pretty damn hard for 5b and no gear either....great route though, just wish I had styled it!
Chad123 - AltLd dog - 15/Jun/08 with Emily

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/08

siah - Lead O/S - 02/May/08 with gavin nixon

middlevern - Lead rpt - May/08 with Mike Blood

JGW - Lead O/S - 2008 with Matt Tilley, Ali Gurney

Nick Taylor - Lead rpt - 21/Oct/07 with Tom Martin

Jack Symmons - Lead - 16/Sep/07 with Chris T

Ian Parnell - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/07 with helen

riddle - Lead O/S - Sep/07 with Mike UKC

Retreated twice, pumped. Just got the big lock to the last jug in the roof thanks to a helpful passer-by directing. cool gymnastic (or thuggy),horizontal climbing.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/07 with Steve Ramsden

mattyork2 - 2nd dnf - 05/Feb/07 with Alan Royle

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Feb/07

alaan - Lead O/S - 04/Feb/07 with Matt

Pythonist - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/06 with Dave

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/06

feilx - Lead β - 29/Jul/06 with Dan Barbour

Felt about HVS - obviously been training in the cave too much....
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/06 with Alex

shark - 2nd - 05/Mar/06 with Dan Arkle

Boy - 2006

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - Jun/05 with Keith Daly

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/05

mark s - 2005

an overhanging jug-fest, the E grade is purely for stopping to place good gear in the roof. The technical crux is getting to the back of the roof, after that it's strong moves to the lip, wave your feet about until you hit a hold, then stand up. Month is a guess.
adam carless - 2nd O/S - Aug/04 with nick smith

johnboyrevel - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with Sam

Found the technical start pretty crimpy for 5b - more like 5c. Lead this clean, but a bit too much dithering - I scampered through the roof and back to the ledge at least half a dozen times while I checked out the holds and placed more gear! When I finally committed to pulling over the lip I was pumped out of my mind :)
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead - 30/May/04 with Adam Carless

adam carless - 2nd - 30/May/04 with Nick Smith - UKC

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - 2nd O/S - 22/May/04 with John Nightingale

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/May/04

Tim Steward - Lead - 24/Apr/04 with Andy Gibbs

mbutton - Lead O/S - 2004 with Gus Hudgens

dan gibson - Lead - 2004

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/03 with Rich Hatton

Hidden - Jul/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/03

Hidden - Lead - 08/Jun/03

jamiev - Lead RP - May/03 with Adrian Berry

Ropeboy - Lead - 30/Mar/03

Hidden - 2003

Nigel Coe - 2nd - 10/Jun/00 with Tim Dunsby

tlr - 2nd - 2000 with Pom

jonka - Lead - 2000

tuftynick - Lead - 1999 with ciaran troup

Billg - Lead O/S - 27/May/98 with Alisdair Pettifer

Mark Riley - Lead O/S - 1998 with Richard Ibberson

rocktigger - 2nd - 1998 with Ben cool n chopper

martroberts - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/96

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/96 with Dave Kells

Hidden - Lead - 29/Jun/95

jparry75 - Lead - Sep/94

Hidden - TR - 30/Jul/94

ste_d - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/94 with mik

Hidden - Lead - 04/Jun/94

Nigel Coe - 2nd - May/93 with Scott Titt

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/93 with Colin Hughes

Never quite managed to get to the top of thiswithout resting at the lip
andrew300169 - Lead dog - 1993

whispering nic - Oct/92 with Graham Iles

Michael Hood - Lead - 25/May/92

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/92 with Andy Mackay

nai - Lead - 1992

channinga - 1992

adi bryant - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/91 with Clive

OMSKB - TR - 24/Jun/91

Hidden - TR - 12/May/91

Did the belay thing, then reached around and did the move. Bit of anti climax but still quite a good one for the surprise.
howifeel - Lead - 1991 with Rumi

Roget - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/90 with jon

sadams - Lead - 31/Aug/90 with Mark Bonham

This was a walk in the park after the pro placed in the tree. I expect more drama on sloth and 3 technical grades harder on Quietus.
howifeel - Lead O/S - 1990 with Rumi

Hidden - 1990

Hidden - Lead - 16/Apr/89

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/89

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jun/86

allaconda - Lead rpt - 1986

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Apr/84

andy gittins - 1984

RichardMc - Lead - 08/May/80 with Not followed, Septimus Barbu

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Voting
Total votes cast 178
hard E30 of 62
E30 of 62
easy E31 of 62
hard E28 of 62
E239 of 62
easy E29 of 62
hard E14 of 62
E11 of 62
easy E10 of 62
hard 5c0 of 60
5c0 of 60
easy 5c5 of 60
hard 5b16 of 60
5b36 of 60
easy 5b2 of 60
hard 5a1 of 60
5a0 of 60
easy 5a0 of 60
3 Stars25 of 56
2 Stars29 of 56
1 Star1 of 56
0 Stars0 of 56
Bag of .....1 of 56
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 184 (0.5%)
Lead118 of 184 (64.1%)
Followed38 of 184 (20.7%)
Toproped8 of 184 (4.3%)
Alt Leads1 of 184 (0.5%)
Unknown18 of 184 (9.8%)

'Climbed'57 of 184 (31.0%)
clean O/S90 of 184 (48.9%)
clean β6 of 184 (3.3%)
clean rpt6 of 184 (3.3%)
clean RP3 of 184 (1.6%)
dogged13 of 184 (7.1%)
dnf9 of 184 (4.9%)