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Wombat*** E2 5b

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[Wombat, the Roaches, 3 kb]20m. A classic piece of roof climbing, pumpy and bold though not especially technical. Climb the wall to a thread then traverse the flake to its end and make a couple of strenuous pulls on less generous holds to reach easy ground. All very antipodean. © ROCKFAX
FA. Mike Simpkins 1960

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Photo: Wombat, the Roaches © JGW
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 198 logbooks, and on 67 wishlists.

Tim Rodgers - 2nd - 09/Aug/14 with Chris Down

Brannock - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/14

Andrew Abraham - 2nd rpt - 13/Jul/14 with Clement Attwood

Took a little while tocommit to the roof. Good, but shame about the top half.
monsteratt - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/14 with Andrew Abraham

Way easier than it looks, but still a great route. Not quite 3 star when you compare it to something like Commander Energy but still quality.
toddm - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/14 with Ian

awesome. was holding on with only one hand at one point. like a slightly harder sloth.
theomoore - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/14 with Roisin

Pete smashed it then left the gear in so I led on that. Been on the list for a few years so good to get this done, much easier than I expected
Andrew Abraham - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/14 with Pete Bridgewood, Ky

jumpingjimminy - 2nd dnf - 13/Jun/14 with Andy L

nutallovertheface - Lead O/S - Jun/14 with Elliot

WillDoyle - Solo - Jun/14

JayAyBee - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14

olly12344 - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/14 with Johnny

Lead on Olly's gear. Put a massive smile on my face. Fantastic!
funsized - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/14 with Olly

Frank the Husky - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/13

Fun unprotected dyno through bottom crux, then pure jug pulling through overhang, great fun. Top was a lovely calm after the storm.
msoldn - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/13 with Richard

really good and it gives you such a great buz
8athomas - TR O/S - 07/Jul/13

Hidden - TR dog - 06/Jul/13

HAJ Francis - Lead β - 02/Jul/13

The start is never 5b, solid 5c and even harder if you're short. Looks like a small hold might have gone on the right edge of the flake.
spidermonkey09 - Lead dnf - 27/Jun/13 with Ben Tanner

Very commiting moves thought the roof, shame the top half is so poor.
RFWilkie - Lead O/S - 27/May/13

In approach shoes.. In the dark... with a head torch... Awesome!!
Stefan_Morris - 2nd O/S - 24/Feb/13 with AndrewJamesCherry

AndrewJamesCherry - Lead O/S - 2013 with James "The Machine" Salisbury

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - TR dog - 2013

saffy - 2013

Great upside down fun to second.
teamrob - 2nd dog - 07/Oct/12 with Ramsey, Ollie

Hidden - 2nd dog - 07/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - 08/Sep/12

Haydn Jones - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/12 with pep

Run out after the roof
aidanb - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/12

crux is v.early
Mark Warnett - Lead O/S - Aug/12

WillDoyle - 2nd RP - 23/Jul/12

Great roof, shame about the rest.
TommityP - Lead O/S - Jul/12

Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 04/Jun/12 with lee mercer

Again, not so tough as it looks, though damp, vegetated and run out at the top. As a second, tho . .
clipskipper - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Andy Gardner

Wet and green after the lip, was amazing until then.
BRoe - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12 with whitehouse_rhys, Rob L

kabutsu - 2nd - 02/Jun/12

Took ages to work out the bouldery start, and even longer to commit to doing it. No way is that 5b! The roof was really enjoyable. Overall fair for E2
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Steve Shenton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12

Too hard for me even on second. The start of the climb was the hardest part - long reach from poor holds.
DaveMo - 2nd dog - 25/Mar/12 with Will Tarran

1 rest. Great lead by Ramsey!
Chris Sansum - 2nd dog - 24/Mar/12 with Ramsey Villanueva

Mike W - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/12

Hidden - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Great little route.
Jon Read - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Jordan B

Great roof climbing, good holds all the way, a shame about the grotty top
Si dH - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11 with Neil Furniss

Stig - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11 with Greg

pumpy as hell, fell 3 times and then was too knackered to go again. still looking for a decent hold on the face to aid the pull through... definatly will finish one day!
minirollsrule - 2nd dnf - 14/Jul/11 with Tim Nixon

shafiq lalloo - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/11

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/11 with Anna

rikbattye - Lead rpt - 01/Jul/11

Hannes B - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/11 with Sandra & Pascal

Main roof section felt easier than the sloth! Start is definately the crux. Good route.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Mike

BeccaSnowden - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Mike

pipof747 - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/11

craig naylor - 2nd - 01/Jun/11 with nick

conversely to other comments i found the roof much harder than the start sequence, though im not practiced at overhangs! awesome climb though massively pumped after!
PerrinT - TR - 08/May/11 with RUMC

Interestingly the start was technically the hardest part for me. Took several tries to reach the first break. Reached over the lip and threw a silly hand jam in the crack. This went and so did my last cam. Decent fall.
Daniel Heath - Lead dnf - 26/Mar/11

sweet ass route. start was the crux but coming over the roof was bold!
Alistair Corbett - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/11 with ben peake

Hidden - Lead dnf - Mar/11

Rory Shaw - 2011

sgl0jd - 2011

really nice moves on the overhang, flowed well. shame the top half is covered in heather!
Bill Lawrence - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10 with tommy martin

Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/10 with D. Rylett

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10

Jugfest! Crux is the start but still steady...great fun!!
drewish - 2nd β - 01/Aug/10 with SteveE9

Second time ive led this and it's just as much fun.
Adam Moroz - Lead rpt - 24/Jul/10 with john (Krank)

beci tointen - Lead O/S - Jul/10 with Jamie Kean

lukea - Lead O/S - Jun/10 with dan, Al

westaway - Lead O/S - 20/May/10

CharlieMack - 2nd rpt - 18/May/10 with Rik Battye

rikbattye - Lead O/S - 18/May/10 with Charlie Mackie

ACE, found the start hard, plenty of big holds on the roof though
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 15/May/10 with Richard Williams

Gareth Clendinning (UBMC) - 2nd RP - 28/Apr/10 with James Kay

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/10

mark s - Lead - 22/Apr/10 with andi t

pete lead like it was a v'diff!!!
davewsargent - 2nd dog - 18/Apr/10 with peter sargent

mic_b - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/10 with Michelle

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Apr/10

jonnyboy - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/10 with Ben Wolstenholme

John Roberts (JR) - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/10 with Simon Hudson

Hidden - Lead - 2010

pie_eater_pete - 2010

ozbaker - TR dog - 2010

dmoir - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/09 with nilsamelinckx

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/09

Terrifying!!!
Mr Wild - Solo - 15/Jul/09

Birdo - Lead dog - 11/Jul/09 with Ed Whitehead

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead - 26/Jun/09

will6459 - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd dog - 31/May/09

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Apr/09

TiffTiff - Lead β - 26/Apr/09 with Big A

craig d - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Simon Kincaid

CharlieMack - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/09 with William Harling

Fell off before reached good gear, ripped one small nut placement and bounced on floor
MattT88 - Lead dnf - 14/Apr/09 with Andy Knight

tatz45 - Lead β - 13/Apr/09 with Jamie Tattersall

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/09

GPN - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Annette

Nicolas Duboust - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/09 with Danny

Bristoldave - Lead β - 05/Apr/09 with CarolineH

simonp - Lead O/S - Apr/09 with Nicki Hearne

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 15/Mar/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/09

Wet hold ont lip. The top slab was yukky and green.
eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/09 with Geoff

koopa - 2009

flyboy86 - Lead dnf - 2009 with Nick Kennedy

Hidden - Lead dog - 14/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/08

Will_he_fall - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/08 with si

Bit too hungover for steep roofs and found the first crux pretty damn hard for 5b and no gear either....great route though, just wish I had styled it!
Chad123 - AltLd dog - 15/Jun/08 with Emily

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/08

siah - Lead O/S - 02/May/08 with gavin nixon

middlevern - Lead rpt - May/08 with Mike Blood

JGW - Lead O/S - 2008 with Matt Tilley, Ali Gurney

Nick Taylor - Lead rpt - 21/Oct/07 with Tom Martin

Jack Symmons - Lead - 16/Sep/07 with Chris T

Ian Parnell - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/07 with helen

riddle - Lead O/S - Sep/07 with Mike UKC

Retreated twice, pumped. Just got the big lock to the last jug in the roof thanks to a helpful passer-by directing. cool gymnastic (or thuggy),horizontal climbing.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/07 with Steve Ramsden

mattyork2 - 2nd dnf - 05/Feb/07 with Alan Royle

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Feb/07

alaan - Lead O/S - 04/Feb/07 with Matt

Pythonist - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/06 with Dave

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/06

feilx - Lead β - 29/Jul/06 with Dan Barbour

Felt about HVS - obviously been training in the cave too much....
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/06 with Alex

shark - 2nd - 05/Mar/06 with Dan Arkle

Boy - 2006

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - Jun/05 with Keith Daly

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/05

mark s - 2005

an overhanging jug-fest, the E grade is purely for stopping to place good gear in the roof. The technical crux is getting to the back of the roof, after that it's strong moves to the lip, wave your feet about until you hit a hold, then stand up. Month is a guess.
adam carless - 2nd O/S - Aug/04 with nick smith

johnboyrevel - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with Sam

Hidden - Lead - 30/May/04

adam carless - 2nd - 30/May/04 with Nick Smith - UKC

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - 2nd O/S - 22/May/04 with John Nightingale

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/May/04

Tim Steward - Lead - 24/Apr/04 with Andy Gibbs

mbutton - Lead O/S - 2004 with Gus Hudgens

dan gibson - Lead - 2004

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/03 with Rich Hatton

Hidden - Jul/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/03

Hidden - Lead - 08/Jun/03

jamiev - Lead RP - May/03 with Adrian Berry

Ropeboy - Lead - 30/Mar/03

Hidden - 2003

Nigel Coe - 2nd - 10/Jun/00 with Tim Dunsby

tlr - 2nd - 2000 with Pom

jonka - Lead - 2000

tuftynick - Lead - 1999 with ciaran troup

Billg - Lead O/S - 27/May/98 with Alisdair Pettifer

Mark Riley - Lead O/S - 1998 with Richard Ibberson

rocktigger - 2nd - 1998 with Ben cool n chopper

martroberts - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/97

Did this a long time ago. Found it distinctly adventurous for a small route, and a bit strenuous - the potential fall consequences meant I didn't want to heave through until I was really confident in the move; result- hang around and start getting tired. Good buzzz, though. Would doubtless be a lot easier with the rope above you.
djones66 - Aug/96 with Stve mc D

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/96

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/96 with Dave Kells

robtrooper - 1996

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/95

Hidden - Lead - 29/Jun/95

jparry75 - Lead - Sep/94

Hidden - TR - 30/Jul/94

ste_d - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/94 with mik

Hidden - Lead - 04/Jun/94

Nigel Coe - 2nd - May/93 with Scott Titt

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/93 with Colin Hughes

Never quite managed to get to the top of thiswithout resting at the lip
andrew300169 - Lead dog - 1993

whispering nic - Oct/92 with Graham Iles

Michael Hood - Lead - 25/May/92

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/92

nai - Lead - 1992

channinga - 1992

adi bryant - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/91 with Clive

OMSKB - TR - 24/Jun/91

Hidden - TR - 12/May/91

Did the belay thing, then reached around and did the move. Bit of anti climax but still quite a good one for the surprise.
howifeel - Lead - 1991 with Rumi

Roget - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/90 with jon

sadams - Lead - 31/Aug/90 with Mark Bonham

Chris Reid - Lead O/S - Jun/90

This was a walk in the park after the pro placed in the tree. I expect more drama on sloth and 3 technical grades harder on Quietus.
howifeel - Lead O/S - 1990 with Rumi

Hidden - 1990

Hidden - Lead - 16/Apr/89

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/89

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jun/86

allaconda - Lead rpt - 1986

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Apr/84

andy gittins - 1984

RichardMc - Lead - 08/May/80 with Not followed, Septimus Barbu

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Voting
Total votes cast 186
hard E30 of 65
E30 of 65
easy E31 of 65
hard E28 of 65
E242 of 65
easy E29 of 65
hard E14 of 65
E11 of 65
easy E10 of 65
hard 5c0 of 62
5c0 of 62
easy 5c5 of 62
hard 5b16 of 62
5b38 of 62
easy 5b2 of 62
hard 5a1 of 62
5a0 of 62
easy 5a0 of 62
3 Stars27 of 59
2 Stars30 of 59
1 Star1 of 59
0 Stars0 of 59
Bag of .....1 of 59
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Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 198 (1.0%)
Lead125 of 198 (63.1%)
Followed42 of 198 (21.2%)
Toproped8 of 198 (4.0%)
Alt Leads1 of 198 (0.5%)
Unknown20 of 198 (10.1%)

'Climbed'61 of 198 (30.8%)
clean O/S98 of 198 (49.5%)
clean β6 of 198 (3.0%)
clean rpt7 of 198 (3.5%)
clean RP3 of 198 (1.5%)
dogged13 of 198 (6.6%)
dnf10 of 198 (5.1%)