|American Directissima (original version)||ED2|
|600m, 23 pitches. Approximately followed the left side of the major rock scar; now obliterated by recent rockfalls. Included various direct starts up the lower band below the upper ledges, in the centre of the face, on the original 1952 West Face route.
Climbed free by Pedrini at f7b and ED4/5, it goes (went) at around A3/4 and f6b/c for the normal human population.|
John Harlin II, Royal Robbins 13/Aug/1965
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