West's Wallaby* VS 4c

Rockfax Description
24m. Climb the awkward diagonal crack to the huge block tucked under the roof, then hand-traverse this (it's OK, the thing is well-jammed) and continue round the arete to a rest. Climb up then back leftwards to access the front face and finish easily. © ROCKFAX

FA. Graham West 1960

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, 100 Western Grit Stars, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties.

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This climb is in 193 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/15

quickdrawmcraw - Lead - 13/Sep/15 with liz osbourn

TonyF - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/15 with Chris Wilson, Martin Lancaster

FlavioL1989 - Solo O/S - 06/Jun/15

Green... The initial crack was slimy resulting in some serious pump. Wedged myself in the body crack after the block to shake out, leading to comic gear placement, tangled ropes, huge drag (even on doubles) and a grass hauling gully scramble.
tedswag - Lead O/S - 04/May/15 with Callum Taylor

Wanted to do the direct finish but struggled to get a high piece in the crack and pumped myself out so settled for this Terrible ground and drag even with doubles when you get round the corner, direct is def the way to go
jjsk8a - Lead O/S - May/15 with Ad Shaw

Direct finish
Matt_C9716 - 2nd - 14/Apr/15 with Neil

JCresswell - 2nd - 2015

Mike W - Lead - 2015

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Nov/14

To come back to!
petrch - Lead dnf - 01/Nov/14 with Maarten Youngman

Tough. Got to the block and got the sling around... managed to jam my body between the block and the wall for a much needed rest and composure.
BareBears - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/14 with Joe Cresswell, Dale

gavster - 2nd - 15/Jul/14 with rob

What a bas***d of a route! Seriously struggled with this climb, really awkward, proper pumped, sh*t myself......! Only completed it with some fantastic belaying from Gav!!!
Rob Royle - Lead dog - 15/Jul/14 with Ruth, Gav

poigol5043 - Lead - 28/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/14

One to come back and lead.
Pike - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/14 with Davey Mac

Hidden - Lead - 18/May/14

Hidden - 2nd β - 17/May/14

5eamuz - 2nd O/S - 17/May/14 with Gerard O'Sullivan

physical; strenuous traverse; rope drag became an issue
GOS - Lead O/S - 17/May/14 with 5eamuz

jimxxx - 2014

rob 528 - Lead O/S - 2014

Had an epic. Took the first block underneath, reasted on gear, then jammed to reach up to the top of the block. Nice move but definitely harder, and meant Tom couldn't do it, and Alistair went the correct way on second attempt, meaning he couldn't remove gear and had to be lowered afterwards.
OliverRoss - Lead dog - 01/Dec/13 with Tom Wilding-Steele, Alistair Dean

Jeester - 2nd dog - 01/Dec/13 with Tom Wilding-Steele, Oliver Ross

twildingsteele - 2nd dnf - Nov/13

airy traverse, unfortunately quite green the 2nd halve of the route
Russ - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/13 with Dave Saxby

my favourite route of the day. good fun monkey swinging
Dale - Lead O/S - Sep/13 with dave

Mike Turner - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/13 with Jeremy Hall

Scary, but satisfied at the end! Great climbing, hard for the grade. Should have used half ropes ***ROPE DRAG***
knighty - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Lee Cammann

Scary Shit! Take the oportunity to rest with a body jam in the crack of the jammed block, what looks like an nice ledge and a gentle traverse isn't! Very lite for feet and a mostly slopery ledge for hands gets you pumped very quickly (and leaves you with brown trousers), you will be very greatful for the rest at the end od the traverse.
SuperLee1985 - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with chris knight

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Jul/13

Hidden - 2nd β - 08/Jun/13

simeclimb68 - Lead rpt - 08/Jun/13 with Pwdr (Paul)

Stopsy - Lead dog - 07/Jun/13 with Townley

theandthem - Lead dnf - 27/May/13 with Sally

Hidden - Lead β - 27/May/13

Hidden - 2nd dog - 27/May/13

Strenuous at VS. John led having to take out gear then put in his own.
Curly Rich - 2nd O/S - 27/May/13 with GMC Amanda, GMC JohnP

Nice exposed traverse. Superb first section but slightly let down by the gully finish. Wish i had done the direct finish.
MichaelGallimore - Lead O/S - 27/May/13 with MikeR

Nice exposed traverse. Superb first section but slightly let down by the gully finish. Wish i had done the direct finish.
MichaelGallimore - Lead O/S - 27/May/13 with MikeR

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/13

Dawn_K_B - 2nd - 20/Apr/13

sopaz - Lead - 07/Apr/13 with Mackie

Fall on the traverce part on the second nut protection
Kyrros - Lead dnf - 03/Mar/13

rich_hw - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Graeme Hammond

not nice at all, didnt have the strength left for the direct finish
JamesWilliams - Lead dog - 09/Oct/12

Fell off after third attempt to climb across below the boulder (not the way to do it!). Climbed up left round the boulder on one attempt and was in position to hand traverse but didn't feel like I'd got the hand strength left after battling up the awkward crack. If I'd read the description given above I'd have rested and then traversed. Next time....
Phil Layton - Lead dnf - 06/Oct/12 with Phil Laxton

manosand - 2nd O/S - 22/Jul/12

bottled out of the direct!
pebbles - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/12 with guido

clipped some pre placed gear
althesin - Lead - 19/Jun/12 with Reds

Reds - 2nd RP - 19/Jun/12 with Althesin

Reds - Lead dnf - 19/Jun/12 with Althesin

Double Knee Bar - Lead rpt - 29/May/12 with Iain

hard for a vs, awesome knee bar rest under the block after the block traverse, then onto another exiting traverse with some good jams in the break to get come protection in. enjoyed the struggle.
DanOsb - Lead O/S - 27/May/12

MaccMark - 2nd - 20/May/12 with Philip Jarvis

ranga - 2nd - 06/May/12

saffy - Lead O/S - 06/May/12

Hidden - Lead - 15/Apr/12

Reds - Lead dnf - 06/Apr/12

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 15/Mar/12

Shortarse.Crowley - 2nd rpt - Mar/12 with Justin Critchlow

JamesP - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Nov/11

Morris123 - 05/Nov/11

did not complete, top section was too wet for my liking, escaped up the gully
minirollsrule - Lead O/S - 05/Nov/11

Couldn't commit to the hand traverse. Thankfully, neither could Bird, so we backed off. First VS to scupper me in a while.
treg - Lead dnf - 01/Oct/11 with Bird

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/11

sgl0jd - 17/Aug/11

lizzie789 - 2nd O/S - 06/Aug/11

marcduhig - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/11 with Sexy Liz

sputnik - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/11

Hidden - Solo O/S - 12/Jul/11

Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 27/May/11 with Ruth Buckberry

Bit off more than I could chew. Only got a little way up and didn't like it. Down-climbed and took gear back out.
Andrew Bangs - Lead dnf - 08/May/11

iwebster59017 - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/11 with Tom Kirby

mksmith35 - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Ryan McGlen

Very hard for the grade and exceptionally pumpy, body tension is a must!
mcglenr25 - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Mike Smith

kermit_uk - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 03/Apr/11

gingerwolf - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Glenn

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead RP - Mar/11

matt0759 - Lead - 29/Jan/11 with James Ayres & Dan Parker

Hidden - Lead dnf - 29/Jan/11

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Jan/11

John Mckeating - 2011

Steff007 - 2nd O/S - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

Meacher - Lead O/S - 2011

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Oct/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead β - 02/Oct/10

danJBA - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10

Laura-lou - 2nd - 22/Aug/10 with James - Turnaround, Claire Sheehan

Harri777 - 2nd dnf - 09/Aug/10 with jt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10

Seconded, direct finish
Jimbo79 - 2nd O/S - 11/Jul/10

Good route, very pumpy, and eats big cams! I lead this tired so it was a tough climb but enjoyed it. Wanted to to the HVS direct option but no strength. Dave did it as a second and loved it (the HVS). Rope drag can be avoided with care and twin ropes.
matt.jj - Lead - 06/Jun/10

Dave Mahon - 2nd - Jun/10 with Matt Jackson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/May/10

neil0968 - Lead - 23/May/10

FrankW - Lead O/S - 16/May/10 with MMC Various

marclloyd77 - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/10 with Al Watson

GF - 2010

therat - Lead RP - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/09

benny_m - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Roger Hill

Andrew Abraham - Lead O/S - Sep/09

Epic rope drag. Abbed to retrieve gear - further epic.
Neil D - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/09 with Christine Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09

tedburt - Lead dog - 03/May/09 with Josh Coombs

Elsier - Lead dog - 02/May/09 with Ian, Stuart

Confidence dented after Wombat
MattT88 - Lead dnf - 14/Apr/09 with Andy Knight

Oceanic - 12/Apr/09

koopa - 2009

tjmillen - Lead O/S - 2009 with simon hall

Hidden - 2009

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 26/Jul/08

JWB - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/08 with Chloe

lots of rope drag! twins would have been miles better!
Benrj - Lead - Jun/08 with john kearns

Exciting hand traverse on initial big block, followed by a lower body wedge to rest. The horizontal crack that follows needs big gear, and ballsy move to regain face after the gully. Nice!
Karlos - Lead O/S - 29/May/08 with Daniela, Ben

daveagriff - 2nd - 2008

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 2008

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Nov/07

Will Jung - Lead O/S - Oct/07 with Fiona Boothby

shoulders - Lead - 08/Sep/07

2nd upto the block then up the direct variation
riddle - 2nd - Sep/07 with Mike UKC

timharrison - Lead dog - 25/Aug/07 with Trevor Macalonan

Stig - Lead rpt - 29/May/07 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

One fall / rest from being pumped and flapping about it. Hindsight tells me I could have done it.
davek - Lead dog - 21/Apr/07 with Jim

timmy-ts - 2007

Rob Laird - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/06

Hidden - Lead - 08/Jun/06

steve prior - Lead - Jun/06 with LCMC

John Lisle - 2006

mr random - 2nd O/S - 2006 with Rob L

donkster - Lead O/S - 2006 with mudders

maybe_si - Lead O/S - Sep/05

deanroberts - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/05

Hidden - Lead - 06/Aug/05

JPGR - 2nd - Aug/05 with Justin Adams

Hidden - 2005

DavidR - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/04 with Matt Smith

Will Gordon - Lead O/S - Aug/04 with Phil Nelson, Rob Gleeson

Stig - 2nd O/S - 06/Jul/04 with Jonathan Teale

jimshrimp - Lead O/S - 13/May/04

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 2004 with Rich Siddle

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2004

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Nov/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/03

Le Chevalier Mal Fet - Lead - Jul/03 with Richard Bower

Alaric - TR O/S - 05/Apr/03 with Pierre Maxted

akhughes - Lead - Sep/02

cjphillips - TR - Aug/02

Hidden - 13/Apr/02

adam carless - Lead O/S - 2002 with Pete?

platt2000 - 2002

Gus - Lead - 2002

bullybones - Lead - 2001

marcoleptic - Lead - 2000

antroy - 2nd - 15/May/99

Hidden - Lead - 03/May/99

Hidden - 1999

orb - Lead O/S - Jun/98 with ?

RobSimmo - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/98 with Steve Goodens, Jon Berry

kato'sdad - Lead - 26/Apr/98 with Rob Simpson

cem - 2nd - Mar/98 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - Solo - 12/Oct/97

chris sm - Lead O/S - Jul/97 with Jon Stevens

smudge - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/96 with Simon

Phil West - Lead O/S - Aug/95 with Steve Wild & jimmy Turner

colin milton - Lead - 13/May/95 with eric milton

A Crook - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/95 with Pat Boothman

awkward traverse
brady - 2nd - 1995 with John Cameron

Rog Wilko - Lead - May/93 with Debbie Wilkinson

RichardMc - Lead - 09/May/92

nai - Solo - 1992

dodders - Lead - 11/May/90 with Dick Hargreaves

Roget - Solo O/S - 03/May/90

kato'sdad - Lead - May/90 with Jerry Mattinson

Raggar - Lead - 02/Apr/90

teespaddler - Apr/90

andrew300169 - 1990

Steve Lenartowicz - 1990

Hidden - Lead - Jun/88

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/83

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1980

rogerskews - 1976

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
DanChad, hamishjoe, jamests99, WILLS

Total votes cast 81
hard HVS0 of 28
HVS0 of 28
easy HVS3 of 28
hard VS16 of 28
VS9 of 28
easy VS0 of 28
hard HS0 of 28
HS0 of 28
easy HS0 of 28
hard 5a0 of 28
5a0 of 28
easy 5a3 of 28
hard 4c5 of 28
4c20 of 28
easy 4c0 of 28
hard 4b0 of 28
4b0 of 28
easy 4b0 of 28
3 Stars1 of 25
2 Stars13 of 25
1 Star9 of 25
0 Stars1 of 25
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP