Staffordshire > Roaches Upper Tier >
 
West's Wallaby* VS 4c

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24m. Climb the awkward diagonal crack to the huge block tucked under the roof, then hand-traverse this (it's OK, the thing is well-jammed) and continue round the arete to a rest. Climb up then back leftwards to access the front face and finish easily. © ROCKFAX
FA. Graham West 1960

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, 100 Western Grit Stars.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 143 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/13

Dawn_K_B - 2nd - 20/Apr/13

sopaz - Lead - 07/Apr/13 with Mackie

Fall on the traverce part on the second nut protection
Kyrros - Lead dnf - 03/Mar/13

rich_hw - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Graeme Hammond

not nice at all, didnt have the strength left for the direct finish
JamesWilliams - Lead dog - 09/Oct/12

Fell off after third attempt to climb across below the boulder (not the way to do it!). Climbed up left round the boulder on one attempt and was in position to hand traverse but didn't feel like I'd got the hand strength left after battling up the awkward crack. If I'd read the description given above I'd have rested and then traversed. Next time....
Phil Layton - Lead dnf - 06/Oct/12 with Phil Laxton

manosand - 2nd O/S - 22/Jul/12

bottled out of the direct!
pebbles - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/12 with guido

clipped some pre placed gear
althesin - Lead - 19/Jun/12 with Reds

Reds - 2nd RP - 19/Jun/12 with Althesin

Reds - Lead dnf - 19/Jun/12 with Althesin

Double Knee Bar - Lead rpt - 29/May/12 with Iain

hard for a vs, awesome knee bar rest under the block after the block traverse, then onto another exiting traverse with some good jams in the break to get come protection in. enjoyed the struggle.
DanOsb - Lead O/S - 27/May/12

MaccMark - 2nd - 20/May/12 with Philip Jarvis

ranga - 2nd - 06/May/12

saffy - Lead O/S - 06/May/12

Hidden - Lead - 15/Apr/12

Reds - Lead dnf - 06/Apr/12

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 15/Mar/12

Shortarse.Crowley - 2nd rpt - Mar/12 with Justin Critchlow

JamesP - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Nov/11

Morris123 - 05/Nov/11

did not complete, top section was too wet for my liking, escaped up the gully
minirollsrule - Lead O/S - 05/Nov/11

Couldn't commit to the hand traverse. Thankfully, neither could Bird, so we backed off. First VS to scupper me in a while.
treg - Lead dnf - 01/Oct/11 with Bird

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/11

sgl0jd - 17/Aug/11

lizzie789 - 2nd O/S - 06/Aug/11 with Marc Duhig

marcduhig - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/11 with Sexy Liz

sputnik - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/11

Hidden - Solo O/S - 12/Jul/11

Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 27/May/11 with Ruth Buckberry

Bit off more than I could chew. Only got a little way up and didn't like it. Down-climbed and took gear back out.
Andrew Bangs - Lead dnf - 08/May/11

iwebster59017 - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/11 with Tom Kirby

Smithy Smith - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Ryan McGlen

Very hard for the grade and exceptionally pumpy, body tension is a must!
mcglenr25 - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Mike Smith

kermit_uk - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 03/Apr/11

gingerwolf - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Glenn

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead RP - Mar/11

matthias13 - Lead - 29/Jan/11 with James Ayres & Dan Parker

Hidden - Lead dnf - 29/Jan/11

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Jan/11

John Mckeating - 2011

Steff007 - 2nd O/S - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

Meacher - Lead O/S - 2011

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Oct/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead β - 02/Oct/10

danJBA - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10

Laura-lou - 2nd - 22/Aug/10 with James - Turnaround, Claire Sheehan

Harri777 - 2nd dnf - 09/Aug/10 with jt

iceaxejuggler - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Paul (Matt's friend)

Seconded, direct finish
Jimbo79 - 2nd O/S - 11/Jul/10

Good route, very pumpy, and eats big cams! I lead this tired so it was a tough climb but enjoyed it. Wanted to to the HVS direct option but no strength. Dave did it as a second and loved it (the HVS). Rope drag can be avoided with care and twin ropes.
matt.jj - Lead - 06/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/May/10

neil0968 - Lead - 23/May/10

FrankW - Lead O/S - 16/May/10 with MMC Various

Marcos31 - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/10 with Al Watson

GF - 2010

jampanman - Lead RP - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/09

benny_m - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Roger Hill

Andrew Abraham - Lead O/S - Sep/09

Epic rope drag. Abbed to retrieve gear - further epic.
Neil D - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/09 with Christine Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09

tedburt - Lead dog - 03/May/09 with Josh Coombs

Elsier - Lead dog - 02/May/09 with Ian, Stuart

Confidence dented after Wombat
MattT88 - Lead dnf - 14/Apr/09 with Andy Knight

Oceanic - 12/Apr/09

koopa - 2009

tjmillen - Lead O/S - 2009 with simon hall

Hidden - 2009

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 26/Jul/08

JWB - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/08 with Chloe

lots of rope drag! twins would have been miles better!
Benrj - Lead - Jun/08 with john kearns

Exciting hand traverse on initial big block, followed by a lower body wedge to rest. The horizontal crack that follows needs big gear, and ballsy move to regain face after the gully. Nice!
Karlos - Lead O/S - 29/May/08 with Daniela, Ben

daveagriff - 2nd - 2008

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 2008

Messners Yeti - 2nd O/S - 03/Nov/07 with George

Will Jung - Lead O/S - Oct/07 with Fiona Boothby

shoulders - Lead - 08/Sep/07

2nd upto the block then up the direct variation
riddle - 2nd - Sep/07 with Mike UKC

timharrison - Lead dog - 25/Aug/07 with Trevor Macalonan

Stig - Lead rpt - 29/May/07 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

One fall / rest from being pumped and flapping about it. Hindsight tells me I could have done it.
davek - Lead dog - 21/Apr/07 with Jim

timmy-ts - 2007

Rob Laird - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/06

Hidden - Lead - 08/Jun/06

John Lisle - 2006

mr random - 2nd O/S - 2006 with Rob L

donkster - Lead O/S - 2006 with mudders

maybe_si - Lead O/S - Sep/05

deanroberts - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/05

Hidden - Lead - 06/Aug/05

JPGR - 2nd - Aug/05 with Justin Adams

mark s - 2005

DavidR - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/04 with Matt Smith

Will Gordon - Lead O/S - Aug/04 with Phil Nelson, Rob Gleeson

Stig - 2nd O/S - 06/Jul/04 with Jonathan Teale

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 2004 with Rich Siddle

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Nov/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/03

Alaric - TR O/S - 05/Apr/03 with Pierre Maxted

akhughes - Lead - Sep/02

cjphillips - TR - Aug/02

Hidden - 13/Apr/02

adam carless - Lead O/S - 2002 with Pete?

platt2000 - 2002

marcoleptic - Lead - 2000

antroy - 2nd - 15/May/99

Hidden - Lead - 03/May/99

Tarquin - 1999

orb - Lead O/S - Jun/98 with ?

RobSimmo - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/98 with Steve Goodens, Jon Berry

kato'sdad - Lead - 26/Apr/98 with Rob Simpson

cem - 2nd O/S - Mar/98 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - Solo - 12/Oct/97

chris sm - Lead O/S - Jul/97 with Jon Stevens

smudge - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/96 with Simon

Phil West - Lead O/S - Aug/95 with Steve Wild & jimmy Turner

colin milton - Lead - 13/May/95 with eric milton

A Crook - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/95 with Pat Boothman

awkward traverse
brady - 2nd - 1995 with John Cameron

Rog Wilko - Lead - May/93 with Debbie Wilkinson

RichardMc - Lead - 09/May/92

nai - Solo - 1992

dodders - Lead - 11/May/90 with Dick Hargreaves

Roget - Solo O/S - 03/May/90

kato'sdad - Lead - May/90 with Jerry Mattinson

Raggar - Lead - 02/Apr/90

Hidden - Apr/90

andrew300169 - 1990

Steve Lenartowicz - 1990

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1980

rogerskews - 1976

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, hamishjoe, jamests99, Hidden, Hidden, WILLS

Voting
Total votes cast 46
hard HVS0 of 16
HVS0 of 16
easy HVS1 of 16
hard VS9 of 16
VS6 of 16
easy VS0 of 16
hard HS0 of 16
HS0 of 16
easy HS0 of 16
hard 5a0 of 16
5a0 of 16
easy 5a1 of 16
hard 4c3 of 16
4c12 of 16
easy 4c0 of 16
hard 4b0 of 16
4b0 of 16
easy 4b0 of 16
3 Stars0 of 14
2 Stars7 of 14
1 Star6 of 14
0 Stars0 of 14
Bag of .....1 of 14
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Style of ascent

Soloed4 of 143 (2.8%)
Lead82 of 143 (57.3%)
Followed35 of 143 (24.5%)
Toproped2 of 143 (1.4%)
Alt Leads1 of 143 (0.7%)
Unknown19 of 143 (13.3%)

'Climbed'54 of 143 (37.8%)
clean O/S65 of 143 (45.5%)
clean β1 of 143 (0.7%)
clean rpt4 of 143 (2.8%)
clean RP3 of 143 (2.1%)
dogged5 of 143 (3.5%)
dnf11 of 143 (7.7%)