Rockfax Description
14m. Mild but bold. Bridge up the gully then hand-traverse out left (crux - very hard for the short) to gain the front face which is climbed leftwards to a finish up the delicate slabby groove (poorly-protected), then the arete on the right. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Twelve fine routes in the lower grades at the Roaches, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, 100 Western Grit Stars, Roaches w sobote? :).

TomOliver 04/Oct Lead O/S
matt.stevenson 26/Sep Lead
Amy Sears 26/Sep 2nd
arose 19/Sep Solo
Chownsy 23/Aug Solo O/S
Tina Wilkinson 09/Aug 2nd O/S

Unexpected turn. Interesting.

with Bill (CMC)
rob 528 20/Jul Lead O/S
Alaric 19/Jul 2nd O/S
with Roy ?, Chris M, Neil
kleinej 19/Jul 2nd O/S
with Katy B
landy813 18/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jul Lead O/S
DanChad 06/Jun Lead O/S

Paul came up The Valve.

with Paul Deane, Chris Murray
FlavioL1989 06/Jun Solo O/S
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 06/Jun 2nd

Dan led. Fairly easy, and he found plenty of gear.

MusicalMountaineer 05/Jun Lead O/S

Nice position after traverse. Not much gear, not really needed!

alaster tonge 02/May Solo O/S
Andy Morley 25/Apr 2nd O/S
olliehales 25/Apr 2nd
shell145 15/Apr TR
with Ursula
Hardcore Pat 05/Apr Lead O/S
with Dr Julie
JRJones 07/Mar Lead O/S
with Oban, Libby
James-m-h ??/2015 Lead O/S
Mike W ??/2015 Lead
philhc ??/2015 -
s1362083 30/Nov/14 Lead

Accidentally missed the slabby bit, so probably a bit easier

Peter Metcalfe 25/Oct/14 Solo
Danbow73 20/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with Rich
Chownsy 20/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Dan Bow
BALD EAGLE 12/Oct/14 2nd
with Dave Smith
Andrew Abraham 14/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Paul Sherman, Ceara
BigHairyIan 11/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Richard Taylor, Katy Stranack
rohai545 03/Aug/14 Lead
with Helen
ht543 03/Aug/14 2nd
with Krish
mky77 26/Jul/14 2nd
buxtoncoffeelover 01/Jul/14 Solo
Hidden 24/Jun/14 Lead
beeney 17/May/14 2nd
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd O/S
Psych ?/May/14 Lead O/S
samej 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Alex_Derbyshire 20/Mar/14 Lead
Markheighton 20/Mar/14 2nd
Paul Hy 19/Mar/14 Lead rpt
jack 9895 10/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Mar/14 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2014 -
rawz 12/Nov/13 TR O/S
RUDIN.J.D.H 11/Aug/13 Solo O/S
JEP 06/Aug/13 Solo rpt
Paul Hy 17/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Dave E
Paul Hy 16/Jul/13 Lead rpt
ClaireD 16/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Jul/13 Solo O/S
RichardLeggett 14/Jul/13 Lead

Watch for rope snag... use more extended runners.

JDSwain 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
ruthonbike 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Rowan Shaw
jjclarke70 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
angry pirate ?/Jun/13 Lead
paul_j_burgess 26/May/13 Lead O/S

Bold start

with Linda Wales
MoWalker3 26/May/13 -
with Jaqi
Hidden 30/Apr/13 -
Hidden 27/Apr/13 2nd O/S
mevanssmith 21/Apr/13 Lead dnf

Made a complete hash of this one, went too far up mauds garden, and didn't fancy crawling along the gap. Must go back and do the actual route.

kez1 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with rob rendle, james davies
Alasdair88 ?/Apr/13 Lead O/S
lizzie789 ?/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Ralphus 23/Feb/13 Lead O/S
tommylongfellow 17/Feb/13 2nd
fuzzysheep01 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Andre and Jamie (OUMC)
Hidden 17/Feb/13 2nd dnf
mountainpunk 17/Feb/13 Lead
with Tommy
Hidden ??/2013 -
Montecore 04/Nov/12 2nd O/S
with Ben Simpkins
Hidden 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead
daviesp2 04/Sep/12 Lead
Jonny M 16/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Mike Turner 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Joshua Turner
Hidden 14/Jul/12 2nd
Matt_C9716 26/May/12 Lead
TM_Horton 25/May/12 Lead
Double Knee Bar 22/May/12 Solo rpt
DerwentDiluted 12/May/12 Lead
with Nicola Pettit
cathymiller 06/May/12 Lead O/S
with jo marshall
Hidden 14/Apr/12 TR
Double Knee Bar 01/Apr/12 Solo rpt
Luuuuuke 28/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Jo
jonny357 27/Mar/12 Lead
with Dominic Reynolds
timmyhobby 25/Mar/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/12 2nd
davegardner 25/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Mar/12 -
franhammond92 24/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden 24/Mar/12 2nd
byatt2002 24/Mar/12 Lead
jmcshopes 24/Mar/12 2nd
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead
aharbey 09/Mar/12 Lead
jonny357 09/Mar/12 Lead
with Ben
studly84 ??/2012 Lead O/S
with thomas poulton
Sam Melville ??/2012 -
Blisco 16/Nov/11 Lead rpt
khalidq 16/Nov/11 2nd O/S

Did it with a head torch! Foul wind at top so coiled the rope quicker than ever.

Alex Wade 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Henry Brown 06/Nov/11 2nd
Alex Cole 05/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with Henry Brown, Alex Wade
ryansb90 29/Oct/11 2nd O/S
swoollock 15/Oct/11 Lead
cragant 15/Oct/11 2nd
Fiskavaig 01/Oct/11 Lead

Awkward start, till you find the trick.

with Jason J
marcoleptic 27/Sep/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
terri mc 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S
evel 22/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Terri
CChafer 01/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/11 2nd
Paul Hy 27/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Mike R, Ian
DaNo123 16/Jul/11 Lead
with Hannah
Hidden 12/Jul/11 Solo O/S
ayuplass 30/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with cath
Kamikaze Badger 28/Jun/11 Lead

For those of us vertically challenged folks (Im 5 8) getting some pro in early is the crux. Nut ok in the vertical crack, its just reaching far enough over to get a nut (or small cam?) into the horizontal crack. And yes that rather polished looking large foothold is a polished as it look. Saying that still a worthwhile climb.

with Phil Newing
Fred_Richard 26/Jun/11 Lead

was horribly wet and slimmy! not a very nice warm up

with Kat
kat-lyle 26/Jun/11 2nd
with fred
JimboWizbo 11/Jun/11 2nd β

Fun crawling under the slab. Severe? I wouldn't say so, maybe we found an easy way up

with Ian
ipblake 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Awkward in places though not difficult. Nice belay position at top. Good warm up Repeat 15 Oct 11 on SPA course/second - saving damsel in distress from the first move!

with Jim
Paul Hy 19/May/11 2nd O/S

Mike (lead) and Ian

with Mick C, Ian
Hidden 08/May/11 Lead O/S
Dave Mason 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Darren Belfield
Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead
jaggett 12/Apr/11 Lead O/S
tsjx 08/Apr/11 2nd

Jason lead

paulerussell 08/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Jason lead

with Tom Jones, Jason
dillsupertramp 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S

fun climb, excellent hand traverse for v diff, a bit short on protection

with Daniel Pitt
Ollie B 19/Mar/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/11 Lead
becoming-stranger 19/Mar/11 2nd O/S
groliver26 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S

with emily and olly

with Emily Cropton
Emily Cropton 19/Mar/11 2nd
shafiq lalloo 06/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with szelest
szelest 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/11 Lead RP
njlyons 02/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with martin l
dpitt83 ??/2011 Lead O/S
with neil clapham
John Mckeating ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
adam carless 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S

bit of a scrambling start, but fun once the slab starts.

with John Lewis
marshy_88 13/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with daneil rylett
Matt10 02/Oct/10 2nd
with ldadams
Blackgoby 09/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Tracey
reubensampson 30/Aug/10 2nd
with Antony Grayson
mmalbon 30/Aug/10 Lead

Nice clean lead, tricky start for a VDiff.

with James, Simon
Jacqui Parker 08/Aug/10 Lead
with Stu Burbidge
Lenny 24/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Paul
climbing_wiggy 24/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Leon
Hidden 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Shane-Smith 21/Jun/10 2nd
with Tiff
Hidden ?/Jun/10 2nd β
Chris the Tall 23/May/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 22/May/10 Solo
FrankW 16/May/10 Lead O/S
with MMC Various
gilbert 24/Apr/10 2nd

great start - keep bridging up until you can reach a positive hold

with Andy Holder
gingergeorge 24/Apr/10 Lead
with 15oth trg
Shorty83 24/Apr/10 2nd
with Giles
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead
Neil Metcalfe101 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Phil 'the Duke'
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 17/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Barry D 10/Apr/10 Lead
with Trish
Double Knee Bar 05/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Struggled at the start. Not a VDiff for sure.

with Nathan
Hidden ?/Apr/10 -
Laura-lou 15/Mar/10 Lead

Got a little lost and took the ledge under the overhang...looking for the horizontal break in the left hand wall and could only find diagonal ones (perhaps it was my poor perception!) The slab felt bold but wasn't really

GF ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Nathancoward 29/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Jack Loftus 26/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Nick
Barry D 04/Oct/09 Lead
with Chris M
JEP 04/Oct/09 Solo
benny_m 26/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/09 Lead O/S
dean79 13/Sep/09 2nd
with steve
ayuplass 12/Sep/09 Lead
with miles and cath
wilkie14c 10/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Dave Clarke
Hidden ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Max2559 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Not Bold at all. Gear is fine all the way up I thought. Need a bit of hand and arm strength for the start, but a quick move left brings big jugs again and the arete. Easy from then on. A BOLD climb of similar difficulty is Slab and Arete (skyline).

with Emily Burden
frume 01/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Dan Bluck
Mark Stitson (ULGMC) 31/May/09 Lead
Jake Howard 31/May/09 2nd O/S
with Mark Stitson
Graeme Hammond 31/May/09 Solo O/S
Rampikino 24/May/09 Lead
with Cat
PaulGreenhead 02/May/09 Lead O/S
with Kirsty
Kirsty 02/May/09 2nd
EAYL 24/Apr/09 Lead
with Mat J
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
ianslade 20/Mar/09 TR RP

A very bold climb once the first move was cracked around the lower face it was fine

with Dave
erica 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with John
John Brayshaw 15/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with Erica
koopa ??/2009 -
keith leonard ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
Hidden 27/Dec/08 2nd O/S
donkster 27/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with dennis
danleyden 01/Nov/08 2nd O/S
with Robin Van den Hende
2RoyalAnglian 12/Oct/08 2nd O/S

great bold start to this route! once established on the hand traverse the moves flow nicely!

with john
Hidden 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S
mmalbon 31/Aug/08 Lead

The first move was much more intimidating when leading than seconding, but I did manage to get 2 good pieces of gear in before comitting. I can't believe this is down as a VDiff in my book (On Peak Rock)!

with Mick and Simon
pldarch 12/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Edwin
jimshrimp 12/Aug/08 2nd
mmalbon 03/Aug/08 2nd

Tried to lead this as it was a VDiff but couldn't even find the start! I missed it completely and went up to the large overhang above then crawled left, which missed out the first part of the climb! After which,I retreated to suss where to start properly. Eventually we found it, Mick lead it and it's a really good climb with an excellent first move which is a little bold.

with Mick and Simon
hugh2002 14/Jul/08 2nd

A grungy first half and a wonderful arete to finish.

with Gem
Colin Matheson 13/Jul/08 2nd

This is a Diff in my original guidebook (Paul Nunn). Eee - they were 'ard them days

with Reg
Hidden 09/Jun/08 2nd
jcurley 07/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Chris Drinkwater
James Oswald ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S


Karlos 29/May/08 Lead O/S

Easy really.

with Daniela
Hidden 24/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/May/08 2nd
simonfife 13/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with ali
goi.ashmore 09/Mar/08 Solo O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Feb/08 Solo O/S
daza 12/Jan/08 2nd
with Alex
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
carl_coop ??/2008 2nd O/S
gingergeorge ??/2008 Lead
MikeDowsett ??/2008 Lead
with Kris Scheinkonig
timjones 10/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Wet, windy and great fun ;)

Blisco 07/Oct/07 Lead β
with Paul Crafter
Will Jung ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Joe Robinson
Stav ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Interesting first moves - second had to leave 1st bit of gear behind! Simple climb - Diff in my guide, don't think I went wrong way.

ungracefulathlete 04/Sep/07 Lead O/S

I think i did this wrong. I went up the face of maud's garden then crawled along under the roof. 'Poorly protected' is not the word for the last half of the climb which has no protection. Felt very proud i did.

with Jonathan
pepperpot 04/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Sep/07 Solo O/S
mick1jones 24/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Rod Deaves
Hidden 09/Aug/07 2nd
Hidden 19/May/07 Lead O/S
pottsworth ?/May/07 Lead

Think I went too high, and ended up crawling under a roof. Placed a runner too early giving really bad rope drag. I managed to get at least 2 decent nuts (top one was 100% bomber) on the final slab, not sure why other's struggled to find gear

with Kat
Hidden 07/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Tom Hopkinson 28/Mar/07 2nd O/S

Little gear placed, especially within the first 5- 10m of climb

with Stuart Honick
reg_measures 03/Mar/07 Solo O/S
2RoyalAnglian ??/2007 Lead O/S
with mark ansty
LP ??/2007 -
leakster 14/Oct/06 2nd
with laurie
EAYL 19/Sep/06 2nd
with Peak
Hidden 06/Aug/06 Solo O/S
mick1jones 30/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Rod Deaves
Hidden 16/Jun/06 2nd
tontopink 10/May/06 Lead O/S
Howard J 09/May/06 Lead rpt
with John Mcfadzean
djking1983 06/May/06 Lead
Hidden 06/May/06 2nd
dan gibson ??/2006 -
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Caralynh 29/Oct/05 Lead
with Iain Simpson
Jeremy Wilton 16/Oct/05 Lead
with Kate Wilton
jimjimmyjimjim 25/Sep/05 Lead O/S
edmitchell ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with kai ren
Allan Young 03/Jul/05 2nd β
with Paul Cubbins
The Bad Cough 03/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/05 2nd
KeithW 15/May/05 Lead O/S
with Richard Broadhead
Howard J 19/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Dave Checkley
Jamie Brown ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Craig
Wayne S ??/2005 -
Si dH ?/Oct/04 Lead O/S
with Harry Hollis
ASchwirtz 01/Jul/04 Solo O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/04 2nd O/S
LakesWinter 15/Apr/04 2nd
Hidden 15/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Chesh ??/2004 2nd
with Sparky
Hidden 19/Aug/03 Lead
Katie Weston ?/Jul/03 2nd
leonjones 21/Jun/03 2nd
with Steve Wales
John Eley ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Stig ?/May/03 2nd O/S
with Red Rope
Smelly Fox 06/Mar/03 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2003 -
waldenmatt ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Tim Waterworth
Hidden ??/2003 Solo
Gus ??/2003 Solo
Alastair Hudson 20/Apr/02 Solo
thetourist 25/Aug/01 Lead
Hidden 18/Aug/01 2nd
Stevie_R 10/Aug/01 2nd O/S
with rod
Andy Say 30/May/01 Solo
Russell Flynn 22/May/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Oct/00 Lead O/S
spqr 30/Apr/00 2nd O/S
with Chesh
Siderunner ?/Apr/00 Lead O/S

Committing swing at start for the grade

with Helen
tlr ??/2000 Lead
kato'sdad ??/2000 Lead
RobSimmo ??/2000 2nd
alan moore ??/2000 -
Steve Pardoe 23/Oct/99 Lead O/S

Slimy bridge start, then easier, nice holds and more gear than expected from OPR With Ant Roy

with Youarsey / NWF Posse (uk.rec.climbing)
Martyn ??/1999 -
craig h 08/Oct/98 Solo O/S
with Jamie Lillieman
Hidden ?/Aug/98 Solo O/S
smudge 14/Jul/97 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/May/97 Lead
Hidden 04/Apr/97 Lead
Le Chevalier Mal Fet ?/Jul/96 Lead
Hidden 12/May/96 2nd
EddieA 04/May/96 Solo O/S
BruceW ??/1996 Lead O/S
Ian Archer 02/Jul/95 Lead
with Lee Bott
Hidden 06/Nov/93 Solo
Nigel Coe ?/May/93 Solo
andrew300169 16/Apr/93 Solo
nai ??/1992 Lead
Fiskavaig ??/1992 Lead
Hidden ??/1992 Solo
Rob Davies ?/Jul/91 Solo
stokienomad 13/Jun/91 Lead
Martyn ??/1991 Lead O/S
Roget 03/May/90 Solo O/S
Raggar 02/Apr/90 Lead
teespaddler ?/Apr/90 -
andrew300169 ??/1990 Solo
andy@ark ?/Oct/89 2nd
with Mate of Farley's
andy@ark ?/Oct/89 Lead
with Mate of Farley's
Iain Thow 21/Sep/85 Solo
Mark Kemball 13/Mar/84 Solo
Simon2005 ??/1984 Lead O/S
with Jude
Hidden ??/1982 -
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1980 Solo
Nigel Bond 07/May/78 Solo
Chris Terrey ??/1978 Solo
babymoac ??/1977 Solo
rogerskews ??/1976 Solo
Rog Wilko ?/Jan/71 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
mikej 21/May/69 Lead
with Brian Hill
tapley 12/Jan/69 -
mikej 23/Jun/68 Lead
with Pat Souster
mikej 06/Mar/66 Lead
with Keith Fairburn
oldmanofmow ??/1955 TR
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
simonjkinsella, nesbear, TizzyA, hirving, Hidden, reckless_rat, pc1983, Hidden, hapymike, Hewin, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, paul_d
High HS
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High S
Mid S
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Votes cast 38
High 4c
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High 4b
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Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
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Votes cast 34
Votes cast 33
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set