Broken Slab S 4a

Rockfax Description
12m. Climb the steep slab then move right and pull into a crack awkwardly, follow it to the top. © ROCKFAX

FA. A Bowden Black 1945
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This climb is in 154 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead - 26/Apr/15

fuzzysheep01 - Solo O/S - 24/Apr/15

Mike W - Lead - 2015

Andrew Abraham - 2nd rpt - 26/Oct/14 with Paul Deane

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/14

KeenClimber - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/14

Andrew Abraham - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/14 with Ky, Ceara

bold start and a bit of a tough finish. definitely HS in my book.
The Norris - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/14 with Aaron R

katyc - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/14

Georgie25 - 2nd - 29/Jun/14

BTphonehome - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/14 with Matt

Matt_C9716 - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/14

Second HS lead. A bit scarier than the first until I found the obvious gear placement.
AndyPagett - Lead O/S - 26/May/14 with Jon Howson

Definitely not a severe but definitely not a VS as some have suggested. Nice simple slab climbing. There was some confusion over the line at the top in Western Grit. Leader chose to finish up the right hand crack and I did the left hand finish over the bulge, which was the only move that felt 4b.
jonhowson - 2nd O/S - 26/May/14 with Andy Pagett

Nice enough, LH finish
mattgrange - Lead O/S - 03/May/14

Charles Kinniburgh - 2nd - 15/Apr/14 with Mike

Clay C - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/14 with KMC

Tiinster - 2nd - 30/Mar/14 with Lee

deanhorsburgh - TR - 01/Mar/14

natalio - 2nd O/S - 26/Feb/14 with Ali

hirving - TR O/S - 22/Feb/14 with sam giles

Hidden - TR β - 22/Feb/14

quinn sorabjee - TR O/S - 22/Feb/14 with Henry Irving

gordo - 2nd - 14/Dec/13

alicee - 2nd - 10/Oct/13 with Daniel Whitlum

VS 4b & bold start. Kept slightly left at the start as I didn't quite fancy a broken leg from slipping off some small hold.
pheotleyr - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/13 with Mike

Mayaculpa - 2nd - 18/Aug/13 with Peter

Sam had a bit of a wobbler tackling route, mainly since he didn't know or trust his jamming technique.
RUDIN.J.D.H - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/13 with Sam Rudin, Paul Rudin

The first 2 unprotected moves give this a HS 4b surely?
EDB4YLI55 - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/13 with David Wilson

HS 4b atleast
Paul Hy - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/13 with Umer, Jack C

Hidden - TR O/S - 25/May/13

quinn sorabjee - 25/May/13

JM0rrison - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/13

franhammond92 - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13

James_L88 - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/13 with James Moore

Callum van Werkhoven - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/13 with Stu Breese

Mattrock - 2nd O/S - 29/Sep/12

Trina B - TR - 22/Sep/12 with Killian Murphy

partz - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/12 with Josh Robinson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/12

friendzone1234 - Lead O/S - Jun/12

martin c - Lead RP - 20/May/12

terri mc - Lead O/S - 17/May/12 with Andy Shardlow

ranga - Lead - 06/May/12

saffy - 2nd O/S - 06/May/12

Jim Malo - 2nd O/S - 03/Mar/12 with Barry

VS 4B and dirty..
fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/12 with jim

Hidden - 2012

VS 4b in the BMC guide.
GC - 2nd O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Peter Williams

nick221 - 2nd - 15/Oct/11

Rob Laird - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Sep/11

marclloyd77 - 2nd - 28/Aug/11 with Dean Bucknall

Started raining halfway up! Deserves more than Severe.
dean79 - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Marc Lloyd

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/11

Wil.Hooke - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Olly

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11

Did the VS direct finish up the arete good finish to a straight forward route
Chris Harding - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/11 with Danny

Would agree this is HS, a bold start but good gear at the top
michael burrows - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11 with margaret

Lallylandslider - 2nd - 24/Jul/11 with michael burrows

jwpil - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with James h

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jul/11

bennys89 - Jun/11

BJP001 - Lead O/S - 20/May/11

JohnBear - Lead - 25/Apr/11 with Bweakers

Hidden - Solo rpt - 02/Apr/11

This still feels to hard for a severe, feels more like HS4b as Rockfax guide suggests.
gaz_jones - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Twinkle

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead RP - Mar/11

did'nt have many areas for protection but was a good and commiting climb
ragabond007 - Lead - 2011

Blisco - 2nd - 31/Oct/10 with Rikki Price

Minimal gear on slab. Went left at top instead of up crack, and fell off. Hurrah for the decent gear. Finally got up crack with a sort of forearm mantle. Not a 4a!
Montecore - Lead dog - 31/Oct/10 with David Gruar

climbed the slab OK, bold but found about 3 pieces of gear, struggled with the finish up the crack or arete, had to give up and exit up the gully to the right. Bad rope drag
Andy DJ - Lead dnf - 27/Jun/10 with CHASETRAILBUILDA

ianslade - Lead β - 22/Jun/10 with Dave

Mitch1990 - Solo - 20/Jun/10

richardlongfils1986 - Lead - 15/Jun/10 with Celia Dalloway, ian dalloway

Spidermunkie - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10

Did the VS finish, wasn't easy.
daveyji - Lead - Jun/10 with Linda Williamson

Direct finish up the arete. More like VS 4b/c.
Jonny M - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with Dave Watson

Bernie Wylde - 2nd - 23/May/10 with jd

Shad - 2nd - 23/May/10

Jon Dittman - Lead - 23/May/10


I think I must have done the VS 4c direct finish as whatever it was it wasn't Severe or ever Hard Sever as it is in rockfax. re:route. I followed the line on the rockfax that went up to the steep right wall, up it then jigged back to the left arete
gethin_allen - Lead O/S - 03/May/10 with Jimbo C

Total sandbag. Would have voted solid VS 4c if it were available
Jimbo C - 2nd - 03/May/10 with Gethin

treeminkies - Lead - 17/Apr/10 with carole

Hidden - 2010

goddamm7 - Lead - 12/Sep/09 with Sandrex

dja - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/09 with Andy Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/09

DanT - Lead rpt - 30/May/09 with Hana White, Junaid White

roaches weekend//bad arm
colina - 2nd - 09/May/09 with phil

katiep - 2nd - 26/Apr/09 with Matt Smith

Matt Smith - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/09 with Katie Preston

nathanroberts89 - TR O/S - Feb/09

gaz_jones - Lead dog - 28/Dec/08

finished up the direct line at VS 4b. nice moves!
brew_guru - Lead - 28/Dec/08 with gareth jones

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/08

BMC guide book says HS with VS finish. Not sure the finish was VS but it certainly wasn't severe.
DanT - Lead rpt - 28/Sep/08 with Olly Creedy

ollycreedy - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Dan Towns

sausage - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08

Not much gear at the start, the first slab is very unpriotected and slimy, I had to resort to a mantel-shelf to get past it as my hand kept slipping on the green stuff when I tried to pull straight up!
mmalbon - 2nd - 31/Aug/08 with Mick and Simon

if I did the correct route this is NEVER a severe....BMC guide book say's HS with the optional VS finish (which I did) but even so I only had 2 pieces of gear??
SGD - Lead - 24/Aug/08 with Jenny Upright

Ian's Lead
DanT - 2nd O/S - 10/May/08 with Jake Hickenbotham, Ian Silvester

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - Feb/08

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/07

Caralynh - 2nd - 31/Oct/07 with Dan (dpmuk)

simonfife - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/07 with james

gravity - TR - 08/Sep/07 with Joff

donkster - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/07 with ben

cooper leek - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/07 with donk

daviesp2 - 2nd - 02/Jun/07

Bold at the BMC grade of HS 4b.
D Berry - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/07 with Claire Berry

Hidden - Lead - 2007

babymoac - Lead - 26/Nov/06 with Gordon S

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Nov/06

naughtybadboy - Lead - 12/Nov/06

Route of the day, excellent move up final crack
KeithW - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/06 with Corky

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/06

bigglesbutcha - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/06 with Clive Ceney

Hidden - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Dec/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/04

Hidden - 22/May/04

Hidden - Lead - 22/May/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/04

Chesh - Lead - 2004 with Diamond Dave

Hidden - 2003

shaun walby - Lead O/S - 31/May/02 with Mike Aston

platt2000 - Lead - 2002

Russell Flynn - Lead O/S - 13/May/00

Martyn - 1999

Le Chevalier Mal Fet - Lead - 26/Oct/97

alan moore - 1996

brady - 2nd - 14/Oct/95 with John Cameron

Hidden - Lead - 24/Apr/94

stokienomad - Lead - 19/May/93

Scott McRae - 2nd O/S - Jun/92 with Steve Jones

Hidden - Lead - 15/Sep/90

Roget - Solo O/S - 04/Sep/90

andrew300169 - 1990

Iain Thow - Lead - 04/May/89 with Rob Ivens

angry pirate - 1988

Simon2005 - Lead O/S - 1984

Ian Archer - 2nd - 01/Jul/83 with Lee Bott

Nigel Bond - Lead - 08/Mar/80 with Martin Crosby

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Solo - 1980

rogerskews - Solo - 1974

Rog Wilko - Lead - Mar/71 with Debbie Wilkinson

mikej - Lead - 03/May/70 with E

tapley - Lead - Mar/70

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:

Total votes cast 76
hard HS1 of 28
HS2 of 28
easy HS23 of 28
hard S2 of 28
S0 of 28
easy S0 of 28
hard HVD0 of 28
HVD0 of 28
easy HVD0 of 28
hard 4b0 of 28
4b3 of 28
easy 4b21 of 28
hard 4a2 of 28
4a2 of 28
easy 4a0 of 28
hard 3c0 of 28
3c0 of 28
easy 3c0 of 28
3 Stars2 of 20
2 Stars1 of 20
1 Star13 of 20
0 Stars3 of 20
Bag of .....1 of 20
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP