UKC

14m.

Rockfax Description
Bold and delicate. Climb the slab rightwards to the break then crimp back left to find a finish up the flaky crack above. © Rockfax

FA. Nat Allen 1955.

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , 2024

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User Date Notes
smoreda 9 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Possibly cleaner now than what it used to be. Good route.
βeta?
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βeta: Possibly cleaner now than what it used to be. Good route.
Iain Thow 19 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I used to solo this regularly, I think it's much easier than Damascus Crack
βeta?
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βeta: I used to solo this regularly, I think it's much easier than Damascus Crack
John Wellbelove 6 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A nice climb, but I didn't find the slab part that bold. Then again I love slabs with little edges!
βeta?
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βeta: A nice climb, but I didn't find the slab part that bold. Then again I love slabs with little edges!
Fidget 16 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Glad to see it gets HS in Rockfax, it's S in Staffordshire Grit and I thought that was a bit steep. In fact, I backed off it at the beginning of the day, but then got drawn back at the end. It's actually a lovely route, got a bit of everything from a bold start, to a slab on little ledges, to a smear and mini mantle, to a layback corner. Beta......... You can get a runner in the break *before* you traverse across (not at the end of it), then it protects you on the traverse back too. At least that's how I did it!
βeta?
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βeta: Glad to see it gets HS in Rockfax, it's S in Staffordshire Grit and I thought that was a bit steep. In fact, I backed off it at the beginning of the day, but then got drawn back at the end. It's actually a lovely route, got a bit of everything from a bold start, to a slab on little ledges, to a smear and mini mantle, to a layback corner. Beta......... You can get a runner in the break *before* you traverse across (not at the end of it), then it protects you on the traverse back too. At least that's how I did it!
Dale Berry 1 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A good head climb for severe. The moves are easy, but the run out great.
βeta?
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βeta: A good head climb for severe. The moves are easy, but the run out great.

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High VS
Mid VS
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High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 60
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 56
Votes cast 58
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Jeffcoat's Buttress

Grade: HS 5a ***
(Roaches Upper Tier)

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