Rockfax Description
14m. Bold and delicate. Climb the slab to the break (and runners) then crimp on to find a finish up the flaky crack above. © Rockfax

FA. Nat Allen 1955

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List.

Kinge 16/Sep 2nd O/S
with Alpine Ian
Hidden 30/Aug Lead O/S
mark4344 21/Jul Lead O/S
with Bartosz
SuperLee1985 18/Jun Lead O/S

A bit dissapointing. Tricky move up and left towards the hollybush without protection.

StevieLee 18/Jun 2nd O/S

Lower slab is nice enough. Not much of a fan of the upper section, although pulling across the flake was enjoyable enough.

rob.swifty 20/Apr Lead O/S

Lead followed by Graeme

Droyd 23/Mar Solo O/S

No real line to this, but good moves. Top was horrible, however.

MusicalMountaineer 19/Mar 2nd O/S

Lovely moves. Great gear once past the break.

with Nik
buxtoncoffeelover 19/Mar Lead

2 runners route! Nice moves in a scruffy setting

with Guy
themattyshep 24/Feb 2nd O/S
with Rob
Rob_Morris1996 24/Feb Lead O/S
thomas108 ??/2016 -
Laurence Everitt 31/Oct/15 Solo O/S
KatOstrich 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Easy climbing but bold

Hidden 10/Oct/15 Lead
hthom 10/Oct/15 2nd O/S
with Lewis Mills, Babika
Calum Wadsworth 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Hannah R, Emma
Hidden 04/Oct/15 2nd
Hidden 20/Sep/15 Lead
DrIan 19/Sep/15 2nd O/S

Direct up the slab seems better than wandering right and back, and there is a nice gear placement in the break. Harder move stepping up into the break, than the alternative. Top section is better than the slab especially as stepped right at the top to do the VS 4C finish up the tower e.g. left variation of Damascus Crack

with Kevin
Hidden 16/Aug/15 2nd O/S
gpcomps 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S

A solo for the first half really

miketong 12/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
birthers 19/Jul/15 2nd
rob 528 17/Jul/15 Lead rpt
jimmysdead 12/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Ade Halliwell
Hidden 12/Jul/15 2nd
FlavioL1989 06/Jun/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/15 Lead O/S
DanChad 13/May/15 2nd O/S

Dad led

tom bre 13/May/15 2nd rpt
with dan, Chris
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 13/May/15 Lead

Must be getting old. No recollection whatsoever of having done this before....does that count as onsight???

jshields 10/May/15 Solo

Repeat, previous solo Oct.'95.

Ad Shaw 02/May/15 Lead O/S
with Bridget Large
Ad Shaw 02/May/15 Lead O/S

Nice lead bit of a solo to start and not loads of gear at start

with Bridget Large
FraserMcClennan 25/Apr/15 Lead O/S
fuzzysheep01 24/Apr/15 Solo O/S
stratandrew 12/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Upper part well protected, lower slab a little less so but the climbing is easy.

with Phil Hartwell
Hidden 12/Apr/15 2nd
MatthewH 12/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Mike Whitehurst
Hidden 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
spearing05 22/Mar/15 2nd O/S
with Andrew
Hidden 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S
jack_44 07/Mar/15 2nd
jammy4536 07/Mar/15 Solo rpt
eddyill 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Feb/15 2nd
philhc ??/2015 -
GermanAlex 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S

In trainers as I forgot my climbing shoes at home.

with Arno
Andrew Abraham 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Ky
grrrrrrrh 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Cammy Gillet
JP78 26/Jul/14 2nd
crossleysm ?/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Stuart Walker
Hidden 24/Jun/14 Lead
ADConway 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
snowfluke 14/Jun/14 2nd O/S
AndyPagett 26/May/14 2nd O/S
jonhowson 26/May/14 Lead O/S

Not a great line. Decent climbing up the face, there is very little gear but it's an easy slab.

r.greaves 18/May/14 2nd
with Ian smith
Hidden 17/May/14 Lead O/S
rob 528 ?/May/14 Lead O/S
deacondeacon 30/Mar/14 Solo
theboghopper 16/Mar/14 Lead
with Ian Slade
deanhorsburgh 01/Mar/14 TR
hirving 22/Feb/14 TR O/S


with Gilsey
Hidden 22/Feb/14 TR β
David Bibby 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
jjclarke70 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
adam06 22/Sep/13 2nd
with JJ
FrankBooth 08/Sep/13 Lead
leglesslizard ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Malt_Loaf 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S
MarkCunnington 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Anna Morris 27/Jul/13 2nd O/S


Hidden 25/Jun/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
quinn sorabjee 26/May/13 -
Hidden 25/May/13 TR O/S
Chris Manasseh 19/May/13 Lead
with Anne Orde
shaunhumphreys 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
franhammond92 20/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 16/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Maddie 16/Feb/13 Lead
MJS ??/2013 -
MJS ??/2013 -
Hidden 27/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
partz 01/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Josh Robinson
Hidden 30/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/12 2nd
rockmaverick ?/Jul/12 Lead

more severe than HS....fun!

with Ala 'the Cat' Piatkowska
Ala the 'cat' Piatkowska ?/Jul/12 2nd
with Stuart
Hidden 18/Jun/12 2nd
Strachan ?/Jun/12 Lead dnf

Bailed onto upper part of damascus crack

gingerwolf 30/May/12 Lead β
with Sean
swhitley 29/May/12 2nd
TimKnight 27/May/12 Lead O/S

Surprisingly fun route

Joemanglerocks 27/May/12 2nd
Pete Nugent 21/May/12 2nd rpt
with Henry from Stratford, Paul Burgess
tiga271 12/May/12 Lead
with Dave
Paul Hy 06/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/12 2nd O/S
PeteWilson 06/May/12 2nd O/S

nice little adventure , used to warm up

with Andrew Graham
bobpilgrem 30/Mar/12 2nd
with Bob/Nic
Hidden 24/Mar/12 -
Mike Parks 24/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Chris
Hidden 24/Mar/12 TR
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead
JenDurden 19/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/12 2nd O/S
Will Caesar ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
PAJames ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Solo
Trina B 30/Nov/11 TR dog
benny_m 06/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with Su
Hidden 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
gingerwolf 23/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Glenn
Double Knee Bar 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with TomBond
nick221 15/Oct/11 Lead
mew 15/Oct/11 2nd

need some large extenders for that one

mew 15/Oct/11 Lead

extenders needed

chedder 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with luke watts
Hidden 08/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 08/Sep/11 Lead
Hidden 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S
victim of mathematics 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S

A tricky move past the runners, then a delightful juggy finish.

with Simon
Hidden 13/Aug/11 2nd O/S
CChafer 01/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/11 2nd
Nicholas Livesey 23/Jul/11 2nd
with Lucie Sedlarova
Hidden 15/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Mike Turner 15/Jul/11 2nd
with Hannah Constable, Dan Simmonds
DaNo123 15/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Hannah, mike turner
Hidden 12/Jul/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/11 2nd
Dan Geh 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with James Barber, Adam Jordan
AMJ098 ?/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Dan Geh
bennevis 25/May/11 2nd
with paul
MariaT 21/May/11 Lead O/S

Had to go over to Damascus Crack to find the first runner, which was complicated by ropes of people on Damascus Crack. Not the best route - interesting finish but the zigzags felt a bit contrived

David Walker 21/May/11 2nd O/S
with Maria
Hidden 21/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/May/11 2nd O/S
Col Kingshott 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
JohnBear 24/Apr/11 2nd
with Ryan
mcglenr25 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Actionflack 23/Apr/11 TR O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/11 TR
Neil D 20/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Dan Carter
MBano 20/Apr/11 TR
djcarter 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Nervous getting onto the break with some improvised gear, steep but juggy after that.

tasmat 18/Apr/11 Lead

Easy climbing, but bold for the grade.

with Steph
Hidden 18/Apr/11 2nd
clairepoppett 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Jim Gaffney
lukebowman551 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Matt Dalby, Craig Shelley
Jim Gaffney 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Steven Andrews 23/Jan/11 Lead O/S
James Goodwin 23/Jan/11 TR O/S

First HS, didn't climb as far to the right as supposed to so scary moment on the break when I realised I couldn't get back to where I had just been and that my holds weren't the best

Hidden 23/Jan/11 2nd
Hidden 23/Jan/11 2nd
Jono Graham ??/2011 -
John Mckeating ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Hidden 31/Oct/10 Lead O/S
gilbert 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S

straight up, awkward mantle shelf above single nut

with Pete Field
Rick Ashton 10/Oct/10 2nd
with andy gibb
sharon lannie 12/Sep/10 2nd
Jeremy Wilton 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Climbing the slab was a little bold! Moving right then left was fun - pleased to get to the holly bush - which I immediately put a psychological runner around. Going up the crack is steep - but juggy

with Vince Norris
Luuuuuke 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Jo
Hidden 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Whitty2012 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
SteWatkins ?/Aug/10 -
j4kub 31/Jul/10 Lead
with claire gibson
barrylong 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Steve PCC
Becky E 26/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 26/Jun/10 2nd
ianslade 22/Jun/10 Lead β
with Dave
Bobling 13/Jun/10 Lead
with Andy
Monkey_Alan 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Richard Perrin
Garron 31/May/10 Lead O/S

Nice until the crack, I propose going right at the top of the face and climb the topout of Damascus Crack

Jonny M 30/May/10 2nd O/S
christensena 23/May/10 Lead O/S

Very bold move just before the break provides the first gear placement

with Kev B
Hidden 23/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/May/10 Lead O/S
Keenb 15/May/10 Lead O/S
Purple Roni 15/May/10 Lead
with Roger F
Ander 03/May/10 Lead

Not much of a route tbh

Andrew Bangs 02/May/10 Lead O/S

With Ruth. Scary start with no gear for a while, and several other hard bits (but better protected).

with Ruth
Neil Metcalfe101 17/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Phil 'the Duke'
andrea83 13/Apr/10 2nd

Very good. Not very well protected on the slab at bottom. Holly bush then corner followed.

with Buxton MC
Mark Stitson (ULGMC) 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
heathergotrumbled 13/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with MS
Daymo 07/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with DJ
deejmonkey 07/Mar/10 Lead
with Damian
RM199 ??/2010 -
keith leonard ??/2010 -
GF ??/2010 -
SHCS ??/2010 -
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Solo
SHCS ??/2010 -
Jack Loftus 28/Oct/09 2nd
with Craig, Nick
ccraigg22 28/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Nick
Hidden 28/Oct/09 2nd
cooper leek 10/Oct/09 Lead rpt
with dennis, crucko
Barry D 04/Oct/09 Lead
with Chris M
Hidden 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
howhard 27/Sep/09 2nd O/S
phja 20/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with darren
shed_hed 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
goddamm7 12/Sep/09 Lead
with Sandrex
mOg#1 09/Sep/09 Lead O/S

BOLD start,nice route!

gaz_jones 09/Sep/09 2nd O/S
stuckonarock 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Karo
Hidden ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
steve2006 ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Blackgoby 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Tracey
Alfredo 02/Aug/09 Lead
with Jen
Happy Wanderer 02/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Ken T
cooper leek 31/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with crucko
Chris Harding 23/Jun/09 2nd

really nice climb bold on lead and great airy finish on good holds as no gear until you get into the crack.

Ben Hollands 23/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Chris Harding
Rob Davies 18/Jun/09 2nd
Shad ?/Jun/09 Lead
Graeme Hammond 31/May/09 Solo O/S
MaccMark 22/May/09 2nd
with Philip Jarvis
stevemcg 09/May/09 Lead
with Liz
fizzychewitt 09/May/09 2nd
with Steve
PaulGreenhead 02/May/09 Lead O/S
with Kirsty
Kirsty 02/May/09 2nd
JDDD 29/Apr/09 2nd
EAYL 24/Apr/09 2nd
with Mat J
RachelP 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Kelly
climbing_wiggy ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Steve, Su
mic_b 26/Jul/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/08 Lead O/S
trish1968 22/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Robin
hugh2002 14/Jul/08 Lead O/S

After a gearless start it turned into a good climb

with Gem
jcurley 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Chris Drinkwater
simonfife 13/Apr/08 2nd O/S
with ali
Hidden ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Em66 24/Mar/08 2nd O/S
with Mat
Mark_RMC 15/Mar/08 Lead

A blank slab without gear until the horizontal break. After placing a couple of friends (one was distinctly dubious) the crux move is a delicate rock-over with a crimpy hold. This allows you to reach a holly bush and easier terrain. Hard in the wet.

with Michelle
Hidden 13/Feb/08 Solo O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Feb/08 Solo O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
avirdee 30/Sep/07 Lead
with Dave Manwaring
Hidden 02/Sep/07 Solo O/S
popov86 ?/Sep/07 Lead
kendogcatchy 05/Aug/07 Lead
monita 05/Aug/07 TR
prof_vague 04/Aug/07 2nd O/S
with Nick
tom 28/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Dan Leach
Dan Leach 28/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Tom Bellfield
daviesp2 02/Jun/07 2nd
Hidden 11/Apr/07 2nd
cem 10/Mar/07 Solo O/S
reg_measures 03/Mar/07 Solo O/S
Diggler ??/2007 Lead
Hidden ??/2007 2nd
babymoac 26/Nov/06 Lead
with Gordon S
Si dH 15/Oct/06 Lead O/S

Girls did well to second this cleanly as their first ever route - and seemed to enjoy it. I thought it was quite nice, worth a star. I also think people moving right are going off-line - the crux, which was probably 4b was a rockover on ot a high step using small crimps immediately below the upper crack.

with Julie and Alice
paul_d 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with stuart
Hidden 16/Sep/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/06 Lead O/S
pottsworth 04/Aug/06 2nd

I personally found it thourally 'orible

Hidden 28/Jul/06 Lead O/S
simonw1 23/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Allan Watson
Hidden 17/Jul/06 Lead
Carl Smethurst 28/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Gareth Mayhead
Jamie Light 17/Jun/06 2nd O/S
Will Hunt 17/Jun/06 Lead rpt

T'was a bit bold but enjoyable non the less.

Neil Mackenzie 11/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Quality slabby start

with Lewis, Katie + Franny
andy jennings ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Marvino 25/Apr/06 Lead
with Darren
Caralynh 29/Oct/05 Lead

nice route, even if I did nearly end up in a holly!

with Iain Simpson
jonnyboy 07/Sep/05 Solo

quite hard in your trainners

Hidden 21/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/05 2nd
Hidden 02/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/05 2nd
KeithW 15/May/05 2nd O/S
with Richard Broadhead
Hedley 01/May/05 2nd O/S
with John Wellbelove
Trobbo 20/Mar/05 Lead
with paul hopkins
Hidden 06/Mar/05 2nd O/S
mark s ??/2005 -
Smelly Fox 07/Oct/04 Solo O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Will Gordon ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Phil Nelson, Rob Gleeson
ASchwirtz 01/Jul/04 Lead
D Berry 30/May/04 Lead O/S
with Claire Berry
Hidden 23/Apr/04 2nd
mol ?/Apr/04 Lead
with Helen Alderson
Chesh ??/2004 Lead
with Phil B
donkster ??/2004 Lead O/S
with trigg
Gus 20/Aug/03 Lead
with luisa giles
Hidden 12/Jun/03 Lead
FrankW 01/Jun/03 2nd O/S
with Chris R
SteveM 16/Mar/03 Lead
Mark Collins 07/Sep/02 Lead O/S
Mark Collins 07/Sep/02 Lead O/S
shaun walby 31/May/02 Lead O/S
with Mike Aston
Mark Salter 21/Apr/02 Lead
with Chris Shorrock
platt2000 ??/2002 Lead
Hidden 09/Sep/01 Lead
Hidden 18/Jun/01 Lead
smudge 10/Sep/00 Lead O/S
with Pete Ramshaw
Steve Pardoe 11/Jun/00 Lead

Clearly ironic, quite run-out

with Marek Piekarski
Hidden 30/Apr/00 TR
tlr ??/2000 Lead
Martyn ??/1999 -
BruceW ??/1998 Lead O/S
uphillnow 29/Oct/97 Lead
with Margaret Smith
skygodley 12/Jul/97 Lead O/S
Le Chevalier Mal Fet ?/May/97 Lead
Hidden ??/1997 Lead O/S
alan moore ??/1996 -
brady 14/Oct/95 Lead
with John Cameron
malc 10/Sep/95 2nd
nai ??/1995 Solo
Duncan Bourne 07/Oct/94 Solo
stokienomad 13/Jul/94 Lead
Hidden 06/Nov/93 Solo
Scott McRae ?/Jun/92 2nd O/S
with Steve Jones
Rob Davies ?/Jun/91 Solo
Hidden 20/May/90 Lead
Roget 03/May/90 Solo O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/90 Lead
andrew300169 ??/1990 -
Iain Thow 19/Oct/88 Lead
with Ken (Aston), Ash (Aston)
Hidden 08/Jun/88 Solo
angry pirate ??/1988 -
tapley 18/Sep/87 Solo
Richard Weller 05/Jul/87 -
with john sanders
Howard J 19/Aug/86 2nd
Hidden ??/1985 2nd
Ian Archer 01/Jul/83 2nd
with Lee Bott
Nigel Bond 31/Jan/82 Lead
with Charlie Leverton
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1980 Solo
rogerskews ??/1976 Lead
Rog Wilko ?/Mar/71 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
mikej 03/May/70 Solo
with E
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High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 49
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 48
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set