Staffordshire > Roaches Upper Tier >
 
Libra* HVS 4c

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12m. The well-scoured crack left of the sharp arete is sustained and precarious. Escape at the top or belay then move left and climb the juggy tower (not marked on topo). © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 183 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Andrew Abraham - Lead O/S - 31/May/14 with Sam Riley

jjclarke70 - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/13

Callum van Werkhoven - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/13 with Stu Breese

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/13

more like VS 5a?
PeteWilson - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/13 with sam yarwood

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/13

TiffTiff - 2nd O/S - 16/Feb/13 with Joe Prem, Jen Durden

JenDurden - 2nd - 16/Feb/13 with TiffTiff, JoePrem

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2013

mrobinson81568 - 2nd RP - 06/Aug/12

paulerussell - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/12 with Chris Poad

Hidden - Lead rpt - 22/Jul/12

terri mc - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/12 with Andy Shardlow

swhitley - Lead O/S - 29/May/12 with gingerwolf

fun... but short...
TM_Horton - Lead O/S - 25/May/12

Steve230681 - 2nd O/S - 24/May/12 with Adrian Pickstock, Chris Parry

PazzaAE86 - Lead O/S - 24/May/12 with Andrea Shallcross, Adrian Pickstock, Laura Sherran, Steve230681

williap - Lead - 19/May/12 with Rachel

Forgot my shoes!
terri mc - 2nd β - 17/May/12 with Andy Shardlow

Coel Hellier - Lead - Mar/12

balancey
scotty h - 2nd β - 25/Feb/12 with Tim Nixon

First HVS lead!! Very bold at the top!!
Ross.Cooper - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12 with Robin Wilson

robinmuzette - 2nd O/S - 15/Jan/12 with Ross Cooper

benny_m - Lead - 06/Nov/11 with Su

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Nov/11

thrutch - Lead - 16/Oct/11 with Sven

Cool finish up the tower.
GC - 2nd O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Peter Williams

Dubious brass wire in top of crack.
bobpilgrem - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/11 with Bob/Nic

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/11

JaseSSDD - 2nd - 22/Sep/11 with Ian Barker

First HVS lead. Second half was precarious as I am verticaly challenged. Didnt climb the tower. Found Damascus crack to be harder personally.
Müllered - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/11 with James Agget, Ian Hawley

Nigel Bond - Lead - 24/Aug/11 with Bern Hardman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/11

craig naylor - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/11 with dan armstrong

mhawk - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Julie Hulme, Lee Picken

Mike Turner - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/11 with Dan Simmonds

Mike
DaNo123 - 2nd - 15/Jul/11 with Hannah, mike turner

Hidden - Solo O/S - 12/Jul/11

andrusht84 - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with ade pickstock

sneaks - 2nd O/S - 07/Jun/11 with stephen, janey

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/May/11

minirollsrule - Lead O/S - 19/May/11

Slipped off first move
JohnBear - 2nd - 24/Apr/11 with Smithy

Smithy Smith - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Ryan McGlen

First clean onsight of an HVS!
mcglenr25 - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Mike Smith

Neil D - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/11 with Dan Carter

Put the gear in but didn't go for the top out, down climbed, partner topped out and I seconded. Fluttery at top, penultimate move would have been nicer if it wasn't so hot that day, finishes with a dodgy mantle!
djcarter - AltLd rpt - 20/Apr/11 with Neil Dowse

gingerwolf - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/11

First HVS lead! Probably only HVS if you're short
clairepoppett - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Jim Gaffney

Jim Gaffney - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Claire Poppett

Aid@n - Lead rpt - 26/Mar/11 with John Moran

SteWatkins - Mar/11

02jmmoran - Lead - Feb/11

First HVS, awkward top out and did not have micros.
Aid@n - Lead O/S - Feb/11

matthias13 - Lead - 29/Jan/11 with James Ayres & Dan Parker

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Jan/11

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Jan/11

pord - 01/Jan/11

John Mckeating - 2011

Relatively easy climbing and good gear till about two moves from the end then it's a precarious balancy reach to the top. Good climbing with a reasonably well protected crux with a couple of micro wires (DMM Imps). Need lots of rope for the belay at the top.
wild_nomad - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/10 with Kevin

Hidden - TR O/S - 22/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/10

dja - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/10 with Andy Smith

First HVS. Fluttery after the crack.
Double Knee Bar - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/10 with Iain

Stuart_Burbidge - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Jacqui Parker

Jacqui Parker - 2nd - 08/Aug/10 with Stu Burbidge

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/10

Led up to just below the top, couldn't commit and had a rope dropped down.
Monkey_Alan - TR - 12/Jun/10 with Richard Perrin

Hidden - Lead dog - 31/May/10

fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with liv_the_div

John Pickles - Lead O/S - 07/May/10 with Graham Niven, Kieran Hodgson

Felt intimidated, but enjoyed. None of the moves too hard. Balancy.
Ander - Lead - 03/May/10 with Deadahead

Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/Apr/10

Big Steve C - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/10 with Sammi

GF - 2010

Ken Taylor - 2010

MTS - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead - 17/Oct/09

cooper leek - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/09 with dennis, crucko

steve2006 - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/09 with Andrew Pearson

richardhopton - Lead - 12/Sep/09 with Kingsjester

Kingsjester - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Hannah King, Richard Hopton

Alaina - 2nd β - 12/Sep/09 with JCB

Really fun and thought provoking, a good HVS to do after a few months off from climbing.
JCB42 - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Alaina Beacall

Got 1/2 way up but top rope the rest after Ken did some gardening - must be done again.
Happy Wanderer - Lead dnf - 02/Aug/09 with Ken T

VS4b - 2nd - 31/Jul/09

Enjoyed the top section.
nathanroberts89 - 2nd O/S - Jul/09

SimonBrown - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/09 with Al Dossiter

Tom Stoddart - Lead - 24/May/09 with Dave Battley

MaccMark - 2nd - 22/May/09 with Philip Jarvis

GPN - Solo O/S - 11/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/09

Peter Drake - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/09 with Ewan Russel

Ewan Russell - 2nd O/S - 14/Mar/09 with Peter Drake

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Mar/09

Danhan - 2009

tjmillen - Lead O/S - 2009 with simon hall

Col Kingshott - Lead - 2009

Hidden - 2009

same as last time, slipped on the final move. I need to do more 1 legged squats in the gym!
mmalbon - TR dog - 19/Oct/08 with Mick and Simon

Hidden - Sent O/S - 11/Oct/08

sausage - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/08

metal arms - Lead - 20/Sep/08

Just about managed this. I had a minor slip when reaching for the top of the first part - sillyreally, cos I did it straight after that!
mmalbon - TR dog - 17/Sep/08 with Mick

Hidden - Lead β - 10/Aug/08

Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/08 with Alan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/08

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - Feb/08

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

gravity - TR - 08/Sep/07 with Joff

Nice move off a sidepull
adamscottthomas - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Oliver Mentz

31770 - 2nd - 25/Aug/07 with adamscottthomas

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/07

kendogcatchy - Lead - 05/Aug/07 with prof vague

prof_vague - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/07 with Nick

Hidden - Solo O/S - 26/May/07

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 26/May/07

alj - Lead - 28/Apr/07 with leon skeldon

Caralynh - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/07 with Lizzie (Flicka)

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Apr/07

donkster - Lead rpt - 18/Apr/07 with dennis

davek - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/07 with Larson

chiverstom - AltLd O/S - 03/Feb/07 with Dave Turner

tskelhon - Lead β - 2007 with Lauren Foster

Birdo - 2007 with Dave Bird

Diggler - Lead - 2007

Rich Fern 2nded
eduardo - Lead O/S - Nov/06 with Sylvain, Mark H

be careful with anchor at top...2 ropes advised. be silly to be pulled off the top of the crag if your partner fell off woulnt it....
david morse - Lead - 01/Oct/06 with ric moat

Hidden - Lead - 30/Sep/06

Bold top move, but a nice little route
adam carless - Lead O/S - Jul/06 with Sian

dan gibson - 2006

Hidden - 2nd - 2006

Hedley - 2nd O/S - 01/May/05 with John Wellbelove

thetourist - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/04 with Claire Ryder

Stig - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/04 with Jonathan Teale

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/04 with Shona D'arcy

Chesh - Lead - Jun/04 with Mash

Will Gordon - Lead O/S - Mar/04 with Phil Nelson, Tom Roberts, Rob Gleeson

nige pacer - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/03

Andy Clarke - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/03 with Ralph

leon - Lead O/S - Jul/03 with Andrew Southam

FrankW - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/03 with Chris R

Digger - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/03 with James Latham

Alaric - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/03 with Neil, Karen B, Bruce M

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Mar/03

mark s - Solo - 2003

Hidden - Lead - 01/Sep/02

D Berry - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/02 with Claire Berry

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/02 with Dave Fooks

akhughes - Lead - Jul/02

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/02

platt2000 - Lead - 2002

malc - 2nd - 16/Jun/00

Nigel Coe - 2nd - 10/Jun/00 with Tim Dunsby

Russell Flynn - 2nd O/S - 13/May/00

Hidden - TR - 30/Apr/00

Hidden - Lead - 2000

Martyn - 1999

petekeron - Lead O/S - 1999

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1998

Hidden - Lead - Oct/97

Le Chevalier Mal Fet - Lead - May/97 with Richard Bower

Hidden - Lead - 08/Sep/96

BruceW - Lead O/S - 1996

michael burrows - Solo - 27/Jun/95

Scott McRae - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/95 with Steve Lucas

ColinD - Lead - 14/Apr/95

nai - Solo - 1995

Hidden - Lead - 30/Jul/94

1st ever HVS lead
Duncan Bourne - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/93 with E Allcock

Hidden - Lead - 05/May/93

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/92

SimonN - Lead - 23/Jun/92

adi bryant - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/91 with Clive

Hidden - Lead - 08/Jul/90

Hidden - Lead - 20/May/90

Roget - Solo O/S - 03/May/90

andrew300169 - 1990

rogerskews - 1976

mikej - Solo - 21/May/69 with Brian Hill

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Lobsbelow, SuperLee1985, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, PanzerHanzler

Voting
Total votes cast 121
hard E10 of 42
E10 of 42
easy E10 of 42
hard HVS0 of 42
HVS26 of 42
easy HVS8 of 42
hard VS8 of 42
VS0 of 42
easy VS0 of 42
hard 5a0 of 41
5a0 of 41
easy 5a7 of 41
hard 4c9 of 41
4c25 of 41
easy 4c0 of 41
hard 4b0 of 41
4b0 of 41
easy 4b0 of 41
3 Stars1 of 38
2 Stars4 of 38
1 Star29 of 38
0 Stars4 of 38
Bag of .....0 of 38
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Style of ascent

Soloed9 of 183 (4.9%)
Lead106 of 183 (57.9%)
Followed45 of 183 (24.6%)
Toproped6 of 183 (3.3%)
Bouldered1 of 183 (0.5%)
Alt Leads2 of 183 (1.1%)
Unknown14 of 183 (7.7%)

'Climbed'69 of 183 (37.7%)
clean O/S97 of 183 (53.0%)
clean β5 of 183 (2.7%)
clean rpt7 of 183 (3.8%)
clean RP1 of 183 (0.5%)
dogged3 of 183 (1.6%)
dnf1 of 183 (0.5%)