Rockfax Description
12m. The well-scoured crack left of the sharp arete is sustained and precarious. Escape at the top or belay then move left and climb the juggy tower (not marked on topo). © Rockfax

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Roaches HVS Challenge.

HB1 13/Oct Lead
with JS
Dexter JW 29/Aug Lead O/S

Not HVS. Too well protected

with Popz
Becky 20/Aug 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Aug Lead O/S
birthers 19/Jul 2nd
IainMay 05/Jul 2nd O/S
MichaelGallimore 07/Jun Lead O/S

Part of the Roaches HVS challenge. We got the silver medal, then it went dark on us after skyline. All routes attempted on-sight. Fun day! Thanks Dan and Flavio!

with Flavio
FlavioL1989 07/Jun 2nd O/S

Roaches HVS Challenge #17

DanChad 06/Jun Lead O/S
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 06/Jun 2nd

A gift at HVS. Crux is protected with small wires (no micros required despite other comments). The top bit is a fun contrast. Shame so many miss it out.

Paul Hy 03/Jun 2nd O/S
with Harry G
Adamski1986 26/Apr Lead
with Zoe Strong
Mike W 12/Apr Lead
MatthewH 12/Apr 2nd O/S
with Mike
Hidden 22/Mar Lead O/S
spearing05 22/Mar 2nd O/S

Didn't feel like HVS compared to Damascus but then I wasn't leading.

with Andrew
Hidden 28/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 28/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/14 Lead
John Higgs 31/Aug/14 Lead dnf
Andrew Abraham 31/May/14 Lead O/S
with Sam Riley
jjclarke70 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S
rob 528 ??/2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Callum van Werkhoven 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Stu Breese
Hidden 11/Jun/13 Lead O/S
PeteWilson 11/Jun/13 2nd O/S

more like VS 5a?

with sam yarwood
Hidden 16/Feb/13 Lead O/S
TiffTiff 16/Feb/13 2nd O/S
JenDurden 16/Feb/13 2nd
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Mrobinson005 06/Aug/12 2nd RP
paulerussell 03/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Chris Poad
Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead rpt
terri mc 19/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Andy Shardlow
swhitley 29/May/12 Lead O/S
TM_Horton 25/May/12 Lead O/S

fun... but short...

Steve230681 24/May/12 2nd O/S
with Adrian Pickstock, Chris Parry
PazzaAE86 24/May/12 Lead O/S
with Andrea Shallcross, Adrian Pickstock, Laura Sherran, Steve230681
williap 19/May/12 Lead
with Rachel
terri mc 17/May/12 2nd β

Forgot my shoes!

with Andy Shardlow
Coel Hellier ?/Mar/12 Lead
scotty h 25/Feb/12 2nd β


with Tim Nixon
Ross.Cooper 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S

First HVS lead!! Very bold at the top!!

robinmuzette 15/Jan/12 2nd O/S
benny_m 06/Nov/11 Lead
with Su
Hidden 06/Nov/11 2nd
thrutch 16/Oct/11 Lead
with Sven
GC 15/Oct/11 2nd O/S

Cool finish up the tower.

with Peter Williams
bobpilgrem 14/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Dubious brass wire in top of crack.

with Bob/Nic
Hidden ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S
JaseSSDD 22/Sep/11 2nd
with Ian Barker
Müllered 02/Sep/11 Lead O/S

First HVS lead. Second half was precarious as I am verticaly challenged. Didnt climb the tower. Found Damascus crack to be harder personally.

with James Agget, Ian Hawley
Nigel Bond 24/Aug/11 Lead
with Bern Hardman
Hidden 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S
craig naylor 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with dan armstrong
mhawk 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Julie Hulme, Lee Picken
Mike Turner 15/Jul/11 Lead O/S
DaNo123 15/Jul/11 2nd


with Hannah, mike turner
Hidden 12/Jul/11 Solo O/S
andrusht84 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with ade pickstock
sneaks 07/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/May/11 2nd O/S
minirollsrule 19/May/11 Lead O/S
JohnBear 24/Apr/11 2nd

Slipped off first move

with Smithy
mksmith35 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
mcglenr25 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S

First clean onsight of an HVS!

Neil D 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Dan Carter
djcarter 20/Apr/11 AltLd rpt

Put the gear in but didn't go for the top out, down climbed, partner topped out and I seconded. Fluttery at top, penultimate move would have been nicer if it wasn't so hot that day, finishes with a dodgy mantle!

gingerwolf 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S
clairepoppett 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S

First HVS lead! Probably only HVS if you're short

with Jim Gaffney
Jim Gaffney 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Aid@n 26/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with John Moran
SteWatkins ?/Mar/11 -
02jmmoran ?/Feb/11 Lead
Aid@n ?/Feb/11 Lead O/S

First HVS, awkward top out and did not have micros.

matt0759 29/Jan/11 Lead
with James Ayres & Dan Parker
Hidden 29/Jan/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Jan/11 2nd
pord 01/Jan/11 -
John Mckeating ??/2011 -
wild_nomad 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Relatively easy climbing and good gear till about two moves from the end then it's a precarious balancy reach to the top. Good climbing with a reasonably well protected crux with a couple of micro wires (DMM Imps). Need lots of rope for the belay at the top.

with Kevin
Hidden 22/Aug/10 TR O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S
dja 16/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Double Knee Bar 10/Aug/10 Lead O/S

First HVS. Fluttery after the crack.

with Iain
Stuart_Burbidge 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Jacqui Parker
Jacqui Parker 08/Aug/10 2nd
with Stu Burbidge
Hidden 20/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Monkey_Alan 12/Jun/10 TR

Led up to just below the top, couldn't commit and had a rope dropped down.

with Richard Perrin
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead dog
fatbuoybazza 30/May/10 Lead O/S
John Pickles 07/May/10 Lead O/S
with Graham Niven, Kieran Hodgson
Ander 03/May/10 Lead

Felt intimidated, but enjoyed. None of the moves too hard. Balancy.

Hidden 24/Apr/10 Lead rpt
Big Steve C 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Sammi
GF ??/2010 -
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
MTS 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/09 Lead
cooper leek 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with dennis, crucko
steve2006 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
richardhopton 12/Sep/09 Lead
with Kingsjester
Kingsjester 12/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Hannah King, Richard Hopton
Alaina 12/Sep/09 2nd β
with JCB
JCB42 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Really fun and thought provoking, a good HVS to do after a few months off from climbing.

with Alaina Beacall
Happy Wanderer 02/Aug/09 Lead dnf

Got 1/2 way up but top rope the rest after Ken did some gardening - must be done again.

with Ken T
VS4b 31/Jul/09 2nd
nathanroberts89 ?/Jul/09 2nd O/S

Enjoyed the top section.

SimonBrown 06/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Al Dossiter
Tom Stoddart 24/May/09 Lead
with Dave Battley
MaccMark 22/May/09 2nd
with Philip Jarvis
GPN 11/Apr/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Peter Drake 14/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Ewan Russell 14/Mar/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/09 2nd O/S
Danhan ??/2009 -
tjmillen ??/2009 Lead O/S
with simon hall
Col Kingshott ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 -
mmalbon 19/Oct/08 TR dog

same as last time, slipped on the final move. I need to do more 1 legged squats in the gym!

with Mick and Simon
Hidden 11/Oct/08 Sent O/S
sausage 24/Sep/08 Lead O/S
metal arms 20/Sep/08 Lead
mmalbon 17/Sep/08 TR dog

Just about managed this. I had a minor slip when reaching for the top of the first part - sillyreally, cos I did it straight after that!

with Mick
Hidden 10/Aug/08 Lead β
Jim Slater 13/Apr/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/08 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Feb/08 Solo O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
gravity 08/Sep/07 TR
with Joff
adamscottthomas 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Nice move off a sidepull

31770 25/Aug/07 2nd
Hidden 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S
kendogcatchy 05/Aug/07 Lead
prof_vague 04/Aug/07 2nd O/S
with Nick
Hidden 26/May/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 26/May/07 2nd rpt
alj 28/Apr/07 Lead
with leon skeldon
Caralynh 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/07 2nd
donkster 18/Apr/07 Lead rpt
with dennis
davek 15/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Larson
chiverstom 03/Feb/07 AltLd O/S
with Dave Turner
tskelhon ??/2007 Lead β
with Lauren Foster
Birdo ??/2007 -
with Dave Bird
Diggler ??/2007 Lead
eduardo ?/Nov/06 Lead O/S

Rich Fern 2nded

with Sylvain, Mark H
david morse 01/Oct/06 Lead

be careful with anchor at top...2 ropes advised. be silly to be pulled off the top of the crag if your partner fell off woulnt it....

with ric moat
Hidden 30/Sep/06 Lead
adam carless ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S

Bold top move, but a nice little route

with Sian
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 2nd
Hidden 14/May/05 2nd O/S
Hedley 01/May/05 2nd O/S
with John Wellbelove
thetourist 08/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Claire Ryder
Stig 06/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Jonathan Teale
ASchwirtz 01/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Shona D'arcy
Chesh ?/Jun/04 Lead
with Mash
Will Gordon ?/Mar/04 Lead O/S
with Phil Nelson, Tom Roberts, Rob Gleeson
nige pacer 01/Nov/03 Lead O/S
Gus 20/Aug/03 Lead
with luisa giles
Andy Clarke 19/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Ralph
leon ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Andrew Southam
FrankW 01/Jun/03 2nd O/S
with Chris R
Digger 18/Apr/03 2nd O/S
with James Latham
Alaric 05/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with Neil, Karen B, Bruce M
Hidden 31/Mar/03 2nd
Hidden ??/2003 Solo
Hidden 01/Sep/02 Lead
D Berry 27/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Claire Berry
charlesmfrench 06/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Dave Fooks
akhughes ?/Jul/02 Lead
Hidden 23/Jun/02 2nd O/S
platt2000 ??/2002 Lead
Gus ??/2002 -
malc 16/Jun/00 2nd
Nigel Coe 10/Jun/00 2nd
with Tim Dunsby
Russell Flynn 13/May/00 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/00 TR
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Martyn ??/1999 -
petekeron ??/1999 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/97 Lead
Le Chevalier Mal Fet ?/May/97 Lead
with Richard Bower
Hidden 08/Sep/96 Lead
BruceW ??/1996 Lead O/S
alan moore ??/1996 -
michael burrows 27/Jun/95 Solo
Scott McRae 30/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with Steve Lucas
ColinD 14/Apr/95 Lead
nai ??/1995 Solo
Hidden 30/Jul/94 Lead
Babika 23/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with Jason Parker
Duncan Bourne 05/Sep/93 Lead O/S

1st ever HVS lead

with E Allcock
Hidden 05/May/93 Lead
Hidden 30/Aug/92 2nd O/S
SimonN 23/Jun/92 Lead
adi bryant 06/Oct/91 Lead O/S
with Clive
Rob Davies 01/Jun/91 Lead
with Mike Papworth
Hidden 08/Jul/90 Lead
Hidden 20/May/90 Lead
Roget 03/May/90 Solo O/S
andrew300169 ??/1990 -
rogerskews ??/1976 -
mikej 21/May/69 Solo
with Brian Hill
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, SuperLee1985, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, PanzerHanzler
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 47
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 43
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set