Rockfax Description
18m. Low in the grade but serious and with a bold finale. Once thought "only suitable for married men and others accustomed to taking risks". Climb the slab to the left edge of the overhang; move up then trend back right crossing the side-wall on polished holds to the airy arete and a finish up a short crack. It is also possible to climb the side-wall direct until an awkward move reaches holds and gear at a more consistent HVS. © Rockfax

FA. Fred Pigott 1913

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion, Roaches HVS Challenge.

Hidden 11/Oct Lead O/S
matt.stevenson 04/Oct Lead O/S
Amy Sears 04/Oct 2nd
Hidden 25/Sep Solo O/S
Hidden 23/Aug Lead O/S
dannyboy83 09/Aug Solo O/S
Hidden 08/Aug Lead O/S
rich_hw 02/Aug Lead O/S
with Nikki
leesa.rushton 02/Aug 2nd O/S
No? Yes! 01/Aug Lead
Hidden 24/Jun 2nd rpt
TonyF 24/Jun 2nd O/S
with Chris Wilson, Martin Lancaster
FlavioL1989 07/Jun Lead O/S

Roaches HVS Challenge #20

MichaelGallimore 07/Jun 2nd

Part of the Roaches HVS challenge. We got the silver medal, then it went dark on us after skyline. All routes attempted on-sight. Fun day! Thanks Dan and Flavio!

with Flavio
Paul Hy 03/Jun 2nd O/S
with Harry G
max_chan 25/May Lead O/S
with Jen - PCC
toasted 23/May Lead
with Marc Lloyd
marclloyd77 23/May 2nd
Paul Hy 13/May Lead rpt
with Lee W
lee1234 13/May 2nd
with Paul Hy
cpforbes 26/Apr Lead O/S
Tim Rodgers 25/Apr 2nd
A Crook 16/Apr Lead O/S
NeilGriffiths 16/Apr 2nd
with Adam
Matt_C9716 14/Apr Lead O/S
with Neil
chrisbussell 14/Apr 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
CharlieMack 22/Mar Lead O/S
with Megan Hughes
James-m-h ??/2015 Lead O/S
rob 528 ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Oct/14 2nd
Julesthe1st 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Laura, Paul Wolf
cragsman9000 25/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Neil
bob_cbr 25/Sep/14 2nd O/S
asmith37 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Dimart 08/Sep/14 TR

Barry led but only got half way. Free climbed to top then set up top rope. I went up on top rope but didn't like the traverse, so went direct

with Barry
beeney 07/Sep/14 2nd

First HVS second, or second VS second if it's a VS! Really nice climb.

Hidden 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Lukem6 09/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Kev
Joris.Roulleau 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Jonathan
Alex Whittaker 14/Jun/14 2nd
WillDoyle ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
hirving 18/May/14 TR O/S

Nice climb. went out left.

jack 9895 18/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/14 TR O/S
quinn sorabjee 18/May/14 TR O/S
Hidden 18/May/14 TR O/S
Hidden 18/May/14 2nd
matt8hew88 18/May/14 TR O/S
jordangolding 18/May/14 TR O/S
fuzzysheep01 17/May/14 Lead O/S
with Vicki Cox
Hidden 17/May/14 2nd β
ColinD 15/May/14 2nd
with Craig
cjmorrow 15/May/14 2nd O/S
Paul Hy 05/May/14 TR O/S
with Dave W
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd rpt
GermanAlex 03/May/14 Lead O/S

no way HVS, bold-ish VS 4b?

with Jes B.
Bryan M ?/May/14 2nd
tom bre 27/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Much easier prospect as a second, nice moves

Hidden 27/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Jacob Hodge 95 18/Apr/14 TR O/S
with peter chapman
guschuck 15/Apr/14 2nd O/S
td72 14/Apr/14 -
ClemB 29/Mar/14 2nd
Hidden 09/Mar/14 -
Dave Rumney 09/Mar/14 -
with Tanya Milner
adie84 ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
FrankBooth 08/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden 29/Aug/13 2nd
oodie72 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
chancer 25/Aug/13 2nd O/S
jamesgodwin64 15/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Chiris Fox
David Kay 11/Aug/13 2nd
with Jules Lane
Jules Lane 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Strange route I thought as the bottom half was really easy and being right next to the descent path felt contrived. The top half was harder (but more 4b than 4c) and certainly bold, with only one slightly balancy move.

with Mynydd Dave K
orb 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Simon Fairman
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Solo O/S
rob.grafton 27/Jul/13 -
claregardiner 25/Jul/13 Lead
Tala M 17/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/13 2nd
djones66 08/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

This isn't an HVS. Try Saul's Crack, then this one, and they are at least a grade apart, possibly more.Having said that, this one's a bit bold. ood moves in good positions. You get good gear when you get to the arete on P2.

with Stve mc D
Hidden 04/Jul/13 Lead O/S
gavster 26/Jun/13 Lead
with rob
Rob Royle 26/Jun/13 2nd
with Gav
spidermonkey09 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Mrobinson005 06/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Rob Davies ?/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 16/Feb/13 TR
quinn sorabjee 16/Feb/13 TR
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
rd20 23/Dec/12 Lead O/S
with David P
dprctr 23/Dec/12 2nd β
Sam Cooke 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Two pieces of gear.

with Tom Adams
Alex.M-M. 08/Sep/12 2nd rpt
Whitters 08/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Darrell Read 02/Sep/12 Lead
PeteWilson 24/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Hillson 24/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Harry Holmes 12/Jul/12 Solo O/S
Strachan 12/Jun/12 2nd O/S
GF 10/Jun/12 2nd
davidclare ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Strachan McCormick
The Bad Cough 29/May/12 Lead O/S
with Nigel Murphy
ranga 29/May/12 Lead
terri mc 22/May/12 Lead O/S
with Andy Shardlow
Mark Collins 04/May/12 2nd O/S
puppythedog 04/May/12 Lead O/S

Lovely route, I took the straight up the face (more like an HVS according to the book). Really enjoyed myself and felt comfortable.

timmyhobby 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S

pritty green

woody8 07/Apr/12 2nd
with tim
saffy 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S

very damp shelves

saffy 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Jim Malo 03/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Dave W, Barry
fatbuoybazza 03/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with jim, daveyw
Jenny Clarke ?/Mar/12 2nd
with dave
Hidden ??/2012 -
benny_m 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Su
Hidden 06/Nov/11 2nd
Hidden 05/Nov/11 2nd
Hidden 26/Oct/11 2nd O/S
sgl 26/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with tim, Bart
Hidden 16/Oct/11 Lead
GC 15/Oct/11 Lead dnf

Maybe I'm not too good at mantelshelves but the crux seemed a bit too bold (didn't fancy the swing and bounce off the ledge).

with Peter Williams
GC 15/Oct/11 2nd

Seconded after I climbed down from the first piece of gear (10m). Will go back for the lead another time.

with Peter Williams
Hidden 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Alex Winter 30/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Very straightforward.

Amy Kilpin 03/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
hotfeet 06/Aug/11 Lead
with Mac
Hidden 06/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/11 Solo O/S
Mike Turner 16/Jul/11 TR
with Bob Butcher
Brian Rodgers 13/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Sally Dipple
Marti999 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Anna
NearlyDutchDan 08/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Easy climbing with a long run out.

with Andreea
JaseSSDD 30/Jun/11 2nd
with Ian Barker
bobpilgrem 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S

probably just worth HVS- very runout but climbing is always straightforward and route obvious.

with Bob/Nic
Double Knee Bar 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Defo not HVS. Solid VS exposure with easy moves.

with TomBond
gingerwolf 28/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Glenn
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/11 TR
simone.lombardi 20/Jun/11 2nd
Dan Geh 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S

felt very bold!

gavinpeach 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Bold route, not any gear till half way up. Easy enough moves though.

with John
gingerwolf 07/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Did direct finish - on cusp of VS/HVS as very airy fairy, especially with the wind blowing! Great route though!!

stvey 05/Jun/11 Lead β
with chris stepanek
Egons Issy 04/Jun/11 2nd
with Kevin Vans-Colina
Rich Malcolm 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Mick Brohan, Matt Brennan
mcglenr25 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Run out with some delicate mantel shelves but good fun.

Mark Collins 01/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Very poor technique on this one, at least 3 knees down! Grade seems about right, but that's probably just my ego needing a massage.

with Neil Henson
Hidden 01/Jun/11 2nd O/S
AMJ098 ?/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Dan Geh
Jonathan Hall 31/May/11 2nd
Tom Stoddart 14/May/11 2nd
with Iain Leverett, Dave Battley
Marvino 06/May/11 Lead
with Martin
Sidekick 04/May/11 Solo O/S
simonward 01/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/11 2nd
stoo2k 29/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Rob Exile Ward 22/Apr/11 Lead

Definitely not HVS I'm afraid, but well worth while. Not sure that one of the photos is correct, either...

with Sam Ward
MaccMark 21/Apr/11 Lead
ColinD 19/Apr/11 2nd

Enjoyable second on a direct line.

tasmat 18/Apr/11 Lead

VS at most. The moves are not hard at all, just a little bold, with gear just after where you would want it.

with Steph
Hidden 18/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Hardcore Pat 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Chris Vanderz
jimshrimp 24/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Ollie B 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with S.Bennett
johnpuddephatt 13/Mar/11 2nd O/S

Highly enjoyable

JamieSparkes 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Mar/11 2nd
buxtoncoffeelover 07/Mar/11 2nd
Hidden 03/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Dux 03/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
John Mckeating ??/2011 -
ragabond007 ??/2011 TR

nice climb,good on top rope but looking at leading this soon

Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Andrew Abraham 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Chris
Hidden 24/Oct/10 2nd
Liam Ingram 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Roberttaylor 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Nice route. Plenty of reasonable gear, a half size nut low down then one reasonable nut and two cams in pockets just below the difficulties (short lived) easy finish.

ig248 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Direct finish

Dale ?/Oct/10 Lead O/S

good fun can see why its called bachelor's buttress, as u don't get any bomer gear till the top.

with dave, hamish
Hidden 22/Sep/10 2nd rpt
tmaciel 17/Sep/10 2nd
Spidermunkie 12/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Wasnt much gear to take out as second

andrusht84 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Not really any worthwhile gear until reaching the short crack at around 16m, where a size 4 cam comes in handy. Long runouts and exposed, but great climbing.

pord 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Lead with 1nut and 1cam. Climb itself not to hard but fun none the less

with Justin
Stuart_Burbidge 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Jacqui Parker
ClaireS 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Direct finish. Utterly loved this route to bits, but didn't feel like a HVS much as I hate to say it

Jacqui Parker 08/Aug/10 2nd
with Stu Burbidge
scotty h 08/Aug/10 TR β
maybe_si 25/Jul/10 Solo
Adam Moroz 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Direct finish.

with john (Krank)
Phil Jennings 24/Jul/10 Lead
with Lizzy
Leelogs 14/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with SCC
Hidden 14/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Alistair Corbett 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
drysori 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Shorty83 02/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Giles
chrisallan 06/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Garron 31/May/10 Lead O/S

Fun, but not HVS by Leicester standerds anyway

Hidden 28/May/10 Lead O/S
Bernie Wylde 23/May/10 Lead
Shad 23/May/10 2nd
Jon Dittman 23/May/10 2nd
michael burrows 22/May/10 2nd rpt
with phil biglands
Happy Wanderer 15/May/10 2nd O/S
with Mike R, Ken T
steveP 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S

I don't think this justifies HVS at all. There's very little gear, but the climbing itself is fairly straightforward. The same grade as Saul's Crack and The Mincer??

with Joe Sacko
Hidden ?/Apr/10 -
Big Steve C 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Sammi
GF ??/2010 -
Ebarnes ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
donkster 23/Oct/09 Lead rpt
with crooko
Hidden ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
phja 20/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with darren
shed_hed 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
dean79 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S

pretty poor protection - quite intimidating!!

with steve
Mike W 22/Aug/09 Solo
tomthecoolperson 02/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Andrew
cooper leek 02/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with dawn
Hidden 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
nathanroberts89 ?/Aug/09 2nd O/S
donkster 15/Jul/09 2nd rpt
with ben
cooper leek 15/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with donk
snakebite 12/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Bomber wire in the gully block with a massive extended. WC single wire #3 on traverse and cam to protect second on the finish, huge boulder to stuff with belay gear or just sling it

with Paul Shephard
garywong 11/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Nick Wright, Mark Shale
Hidden 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
stvey 26/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Jay_Kay
Hidden 26/Jun/09 2nd
Hidden 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
neilpotter 23/Jun/09 TR O/S
MaccMark 04/Jun/09 Lead
with Clare Hodgson
RCrockford 01/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Andy C
Rob Davies ?/Jun/09 Lead
with Mark ?
Byronius Maximus 31/May/09 Lead O/S

Found this really rather scary, obviously lost my grit leading head a bit after a few months off.

with Graeme Hammond
Rog Wilko 31/May/09 Lead

Hadn't done this for many years (it was only hard severe then!). There isn't much more gear than there was forty years ago - where the small wire goes now it used to be possible to fiddle in a Moac (remember those?) sideways on. I never tested the Moac, but I'd be confident of the #3 Rock.

with Debbie Wilkinson
Graeme Hammond 31/May/09 2nd rpt

fresh memory from the previous day

Graeme Hammond 30/May/09 Lead O/S

missed the nut Rog Wilko showed me the next day so just a runner at the end and the start! carefull but easy climbing

with Sarah New
danoflynn 02/May/09 2nd O/S
with Cat Black
catblack 02/May/09 Lead O/S
with Dan O'Flynn
Hidden ?/May/09 2nd
Frostie ?/May/09 Lead
with Nick Andrews
Si dH 18/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Neil Furniss
Hidden 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/09 2nd
Danhan ??/2009 -
keith leonard ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
Dr Caterpillar 01/Nov/08 2nd O/S
with Harry
danm 06/Oct/08 2nd
Jim Slater 27/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Angus Malcolm, Phil Lee
HamishD 27/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with sergei
Hidden 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
richardhopton 25/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Matt Thombs
nickwhimster 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Matt Barnet
gazfellows 20/Sep/08 2nd
with shaun d
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
Goose4 ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
@ndy 06/Oct/07 Lead O/S
OffshoreAndy 22/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with NCC Kelvin
Hidden 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/07 2nd
minaturechris 11/Aug/07 2nd
with Barra
JWB 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Alex.M-M. ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/07 Lead O/S
mic_b 12/May/07 Lead O/S

Really scary. Lives up to its name.

Caralynh 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Put brave head on, and found this brilliant

derico 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Colin
Hidden 28/Apr/07 2nd
Laurence Everitt 11/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Rosie Henstock 11/Apr/07 2nd

shit scared for laurences life! He has an inconcievable disreguard for his own life!

Birdo ??/2007 -
with Dave Bird
Hidden 23/Sep/06 2nd O/S
dan gibson 18/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Hidden 17/Sep/06 Lead
Hidden 15/Sep/06 Solo O/S
jchenoweth 22/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Dave Love and Samian
John HW 04/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Cath
Alfredo ?/Jun/06 2nd
with Steve
Hidden 22/Apr/06 2nd
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Hidden 03/Sep/05 2nd
Steve Pardoe 08/Jun/05 2nd

Delicate, nice heelhook start

Hidden 29/Apr/05 Lead
Hidden ??/2005 -
Andy Clarke 05/Sep/04 Lead O/S
with Rob
Hidden 13/Aug/04 Lead
Hidden 12/Jun/04 Lead
Chesh ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Matt
ASchwirtz 25/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Shona D'arcy
Coel Hellier ??/2004 Lead
bigphil ??/2004 -
Gus 20/Aug/03 Lead
Chris the Tall ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Alan Selby
Hidden 27/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Phil West 12/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Shaun Walby
Hidden ?/Jul/03 -
Simon Caldwell 12/Apr/03 Lead O/S

Probably the most terrified I've been on a route

with Carmen
Hidden ??/2003 2nd
Hidden ??/2003 Solo
petekeron ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/02 AltLd O/S
Mark Salter 21/Apr/02 AltLd
with Chris Shorrock
Phill Mitch ??/2002 Lead O/S
with john d
platt2000 ??/2002 Lead
Hidden 27/Aug/01 Lead
MontyH 28/Jul/01 Lead O/S
with Andy Lawrance
Hidden 25/Aug/00 Lead O/S
Laramadness 27/Jun/00 Lead
chrishedgehog 08/Apr/00 Lead O/S
with Joe Thompson, Drew
ArnaudG ??/2000 -
tlr ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 05/Sep/99 Lead O/S
antroy 15/May/99 Lead
Hammy 14/Mar/99 2nd
with Richard Munro
Hidden 12/Oct/97 Solo
Hidden ?/Sep/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/97 Lead
Le Chevalier Mal Fet ?/May/97 Lead
with Richard Bower
smudge 23/Sep/96 Lead
with Alex
EddieA 04/May/96 Lead O/S
with NCMC
brady ??/1996 2nd
with John Cameron
alan moore ??/1996 -
Hidden 09/Aug/95 AltLd
michael burrows 27/Jun/95 Solo
Duncan Bourne 08/Apr/95 2nd
with D Jones
jparry75 ?/Aug/94 2nd
Babika 23/Jul/94 2nd O/S
with Mark Jones
malc 12/Sep/93 Lead
Hidden 30/May/93 Lead O/S
SimonN 23/Jun/92 Lead
adi bryant 06/Oct/91 2nd
with Clive
Hidden 08/Sep/91 Lead
Hammy 04/Aug/91 Lead
with Fai Kwong, Mandy Kwong
Rob Davies ?/May/91 AltLd
Roget 24/Apr/91 Solo O/S
Nigel Coe ??/1991 -
Hidden ??/1991 -
Roget 08/Apr/90 Solo O/S
Iain Thow 04/May/89 Lead
with Rob Ivens
charlesmfrench 08/Nov/86 Solo O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/84 2nd
Mark Kemball 13/Mar/84 Solo
andy gittins ??/1984 -
Chris Terrey 21/Jun/81 Lead
with Gerry Dunford
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 Lead
Nigel Bond 08/Mar/80 Lead
with Martin Crosby
babymoac 01/Mar/80 2nd
with MTW
Hidden 23/Apr/78 Lead
RichardMc 01/May/77 Lead O/S
with Dave Langmead
Dave Musgrove 22/May/76 Lead
Hidden 08/May/76 Lead
rogerskews ??/1976 -
Rog Wilko ?/Mar/71 Lead

I can't believe this gets HVS now! It was given HS when I first did it.

with Debbie Wilkinson
mikej 03/May/70 Lead
with E
mikej 03/May/70 Solo
with E
oldmanofmow ??/1962 2nd

Dave Price led

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 86
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 81
Votes cast 89
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set