Rockfax Description
26m. Bridge up the wide lower section of the gully until it is possible to transfer into the crack to the right. Continue up this, passing a possible constricted stance, to the left-hand end of the great roof. Pull over the bulge then either finish easily, or if you are up to it, climb as far as a thread, descend a couple of moves and shuffle rightwards on rounded holds out into space to the final exposed (and thankfully easy) rib. © Rockfax

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, 100 Western Grit Stars, Roaches w sobote? :).

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
andy.smythe 12/Oct 2nd
Steve-J-E 10/Oct 2nd
TGreen 06/Sep Lead O/S
Rosie Henstock 06/Sep 2nd O/S
Simonfarfaraway 08/Aug Lead
leesa.rushton 02/Aug 2nd O/S
Felix la shat ?/Aug AltLd O/S
FlavioL1989 06/Jun Solo O/S
greylag 30/May Lead
NickST 24/May Lead
Phil Tucker
DanChad 13/May Lead O/S

Finished up The Neb Finish.

tom bre 13/May 2nd rpt
dan, Chris
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 13/May 2nd

With the vastly superior Neb Finish. Dan led.

A Crook 16/Apr AltLd O/S
NeilGriffiths 16/Apr AltLd
druss 05/Apr 2nd rpt
mattc 15/Mar Lead O/S

i think I did hs variation

James-m-h ??/2015 Lead O/S
fulton333 ??/2015 Lead
philhc ??/2015 -
Gympaul ?/Nov/14 -
bullybones 31/Oct/14 Lead
KeenClimber 22/Sep/14 Lead O/S
LP 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Not the neb. Didn't trust the belayer much after yesterday....

benlatham07 09/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Josiemc 03/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
babymoac 18/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
benlatham07 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
alaster tonge 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Assad Lahlou
krispy_fish2000 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S
dunk3607 ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
georgec 17/May/14 Lead O/S
Whitmoreaa ?/May/14 Lead O/S
John Eccles
PeteMc 23/Apr/14 2nd
tom0french 23/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Rob Royle 16/Apr/14 2nd
gavster 16/Apr/14 Lead O/S
ruth, rob
Ruthie 16/Apr/14 TR
Hidden 19/Mar/14 -
Hidden 13/Mar/14 2nd
druss 08/Mar/14 2nd O/S
poeter210 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
CptCatastrophe 01/Mar/14 -
Ban1 ?/Mar/14 2nd O/S
jack 9895 19/Feb/14 2nd O/S
ady'sharma'roe ??/2014 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2014 -
lewis_james84 ??/2014 Lead β
Hidden ??/2014 -
balloo1791 ??/2014 -
Hidden 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Siobhan McGowan 05/Oct/13 -
Montecore ?/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Ranveig Berg, Seth Redmond
Hidden 24/Sep/13 -
Hidden 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
adam06 22/Sep/13 Lead

not very good really.. didn't think 2 stars.

chris white
wishicud climbHVS 28/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Nice climbing.

Tony7553 21/Aug/13 TR O/S
jasonpm 20/Jul/13 Lead
Eddie Webster
paul_j_burgess 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
vassy05 ?/Jul/13 -
p3tersen 29/Jun/13 2nd
felixizzy 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
nb148 03/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Yin Yeung
RKirke 16/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Pete_Hamlin 16/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Start was very run out with relatively simple cmimbing. Afterwards switched to some quite technical climbing but with with good gear

mikespooner 16/Feb/13 2nd O/S
Darcy Turner 15/Feb/13 Lead
Hidden ??/2013 -
David Woods ??/2013 -
Silvia Murrel, Ed Luke
afinley ??/2013 2nd
Karl Pell
Lauren Davies 13/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Gideon Mordecai
gidmord 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Alex.M-M. 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Dan Vaj 08/Sep/12 2nd
khalidq 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S

A bit exposed to start with including a prickly holly moment but great once you get going.

dsgarner 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Robnort 25/Aug/12 TR O/S
Jonny M 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hannes B 14/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Mark H
Hidden 28/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Stuart William 21/May/12 Lead dog
Lewis M
LauraCadman 13/May/12 2nd
Clive Dean 13/May/12 2nd β
Joe Penfold, Laura Cadman
mdg skidmore 13/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/12 Lead O/S
Paul Hy 06/May/12 Lead O/S
Rob84 15/Apr/12 2nd
Hidden 03/Mar/12 Lead
Helen.Burgess 03/Mar/12 2nd
Robin Brooke ?/Mar/12 Lead

layback type moves to gain position above the hollybush, couple of hand jams, then straight up through easy corner

Pryan ?/Mar/12 Lead
Robin Brooke
JenDurden 19/Feb/12 2nd
Ross.Cooper 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Amazing climb, 3 stars with Neb finish!

robinmuzette 15/Jan/12 2nd
PAJames ??/2012 -
Sam Melville ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
dmannion ??/2012 Lead β
Dave89 26/Nov/11 Lead O/S
tiffanykate12 26/Nov/11 2nd

Very slippery to start.

Hidden 27/Sep/11 Lead
Hidden 08/Sep/11 Lead
Nigel Bond 24/Aug/11 Lead
Bern Hardman
stuaart 05/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Tom led as one pitch.

Thomas Smith, Neil Redgrave
thomasaneurinsmith 05/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Neil Redgrave, Stuart Reeves
Mike Turner 16/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Bob Butcher
Different Steve 16/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Off-route to start(?) + severe finish

Eddie Webster
tompilgrem 12/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/11 2nd rpt
Dux 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Without Neb finish

Blurgy319 03/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Peter Williams
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
HIGHTOWER 02/Jul/11 2nd
williamsd79 02/Jul/11 2nd O/S
WillDoyle 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S

First lead.

Hidden 09/Jun/11 Lead
Feeling bold 05/Jun/11 2nd O/S
AMC Kevin and EGON Issy
mol 05/Jun/11 Lead
Egons Issy 05/Jun/11 2nd
Kevin Vans-Colina, Maria Brierley
Hidden 18/May/11 2nd
mcglenr25 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/11 2nd O/S
benwhit 21/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Neil D 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Owen Rees, Dan Carter
djcarter 20/Apr/11 2nd O/S

couple of fun moves in the middle to an easy finish

rockman 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Easy finish

biffy 19/Apr/11 2nd β

enjoyed this climb very much

peaker16 19/Apr/11 Lead
ed edwards 19/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 15/Apr/11 2nd
Jonathan Spooner ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Bob Odale
Hidden 27/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Lunar25 08/Mar/11 Solo O/S
buxtoncoffeelover 07/Mar/11 2nd
beds74 08/Feb/11 Lead
Craig Hartley
drysori 30/Jan/11 Solo


Jono Graham ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
heeley ??/2011 -
John Mckeating ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 2nd
dpitt83 ?/Nov/10 2nd O/S
phil hughes
thecurlyone 30/Oct/10 2nd O/S

Lead by Robert

Robert Dufton, Martin Oldham
MartinWilliams87 09/Oct/10 2nd O/S
andysroom ?/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Leo Woodhead 26/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch after deciding I didn't fancy the second pitch. However the 1st pitch was much harder and more exciting. 2nd pitch was a bit of a damp squib really.

Ianwesterby 26/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
ianslade 23/Jun/10 Lead β
pldarch 06/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Andy Rigby
Spidermunkie 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/10 Lead
FrankW 15/May/10 2nd O/S
Andy P, Lee Bonner
Graeme Hammond 15/May/10 2nd rpt
Emma-Louise Anderson 09/May/10 Lead O/S
Jonathan Grant
Hidden 04/May/10 2nd rpt
manwithacam 19/Apr/10 Lead

Very enjoyable, did variant finish which is a bit out of keeping but fun all the same

Joris.Roulleau 18/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/10 Lead O/S
crossdressingrodney 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Laura-lou 10/Apr/10 Lead
John Dodd
Hidden ?/Apr/10 -
Weedyskid ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
GF ??/2010 -
Phil PBC ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
rich_hw ??/2010 Lead O/S
chris fox ??/2010 Lead O/S
gaz_jones 13/Dec/09 2nd O/S
brew_guru 12/Dec/09 Lead O/S

nice route!

peaches69 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S

due to high wind had real problems with communication

ig248 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Andrew Marshall
Tadams 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Finnegan Pope-Carter
Hidden 29/Aug/09 2nd dog
Hidden 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Mike W 22/Aug/09 Solo
Kaiser999 19/Aug/09 Lead
Andy Farrimond
spacey 18/Aug/09 Lead O/S
marcmac 23/Jul/09 Lead O/S
chubbyclimber 18/Jul/09 -
Hidden 08/Jul/09 Lead O/S
hellboundblr 01/Jul/09 2nd
Hidden 01/Jul/09 2nd
stvey 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Danhan 21/Jun/09 2nd
Hidden 21/Jun/09 Lead
Hidden 02/Jun/09 Lead
dannymoo99 02/Jun/09 2nd
Tom Shooter
Graeme Hammond 30/May/09 Lead rpt

seemed much easier this time not sure why i thought it was hard before, finished easily rather than the Neb finish

Sarah New
Irn Bruce 23/May/09 2nd O/S
@ndy 11/May/09 2nd
stevemcg 10/May/09 Lead
fizzychewitt 10/May/09 2nd
highclimber ?/May/09 -
Hidden 26/Apr/09 -
markblair 20/Apr/09 2nd
Alison Dixon
superturbo 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
rockjock0_1 ??/2009 -
gary buckle
Col Kingshott ??/2009 Lead
keith leonard ??/2009 -
richardhargreaves ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 -
paulstrutt01 20/Sep/08 2nd
james oswald
James Oswald ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Pumpy first pitch. Spent about half an hour before commiting to both the climb up the next to the crack and the bit above that. Good climb! My hardest VS so far!

Antigrav, Strutt
SimonAndersen ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Kevin Belcher
Hidden 23/Aug/08 Lead
Gustav 23/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/08 Lead dnf
Hidden 26/Jul/08 2nd O/S
IanJackson 17/Mar/08 Solo O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Feb/08 2nd O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
Goose4 ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Nov/07 Solo
Eddie Hung 04/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Went left over the hollybush instead of right, and took the exposed finish!

Dave Hodgkinson, James Smith
dzlhodgson 04/Nov/07 2nd O/S
Eddie Hung
A Crook 26/Oct/07 2nd
Simon Caldwell 29/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Direct finish, as the Neb was green and slippery. Is the route supposed to start to the left of the holly (as in the description) or to the right (as in the topo)? I did the latter, which was nice but rather bold. The BMC guide is no help, as it doesn't tell you or even show it on the topo.

Graeme Hammond 01/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/07 Solo O/S
Jesse Dufton ?/Sep/07 Lead
Nick Lambert
b.hayley ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
timharrison 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Darrell Read 27/Aug/07 2nd
Nick Lambert
Hidden 15/Aug/07 2nd O/S
Ing 02/Jun/07 2nd
KevB 31/May/07 Lead
Katya 23/May/07 2nd
khawk 21/Apr/07 Lead
Hidden 11/Apr/07 Lead
littledave 07/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Ian Parkhouse
Hidden 07/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Steve Waters, Mynydd 01/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Martin Kocsis
Hidden ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
prawn ?/Apr/07 2nd
Shaw Brown 24/Mar/07 Lead

Did the variation finish out to the arete above the overhang, quite scary.

simon blythe
Miles87 ?/Mar/07 2nd O/S
Pete Ellis
sarah87 07/Feb/07 2nd dog
Nick Cox
trevor macalonan ??/2007 2nd O/S
Birdo ??/2007 -
Dave Bird
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
Diggler ??/2007 Lead
Chewie ??/2007 Lead O/S
MazElden ??/2007 Lead
chrisallan ??/2007 Lead O/S
Adam Potter 05/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Matt Shepherd 10/Oct/06 Lead O/S
OffshoreAndy 18/Sep/06 Lead O/S

Top pitch variant.

UKC Jeremy
Hidden 15/Sep/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/06 Lead O/S
steev 12/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Did the alternative finish and thought it well worth the run-out. Leads into a fine position.

Hidden 12/Aug/06 2nd O/S
jonnyboy 07/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Tom C
Hidden 03/Aug/06 Lead O/S
colin milton 21/Jul/06 Lead

climbed pitch 2 in combo with technical slab in one runout. Quite green but that seemed to add to the fun. not hard for 4b.

markju 08/Jul/06 2nd O/S
Paul Burgess 29/Jun/06 Lead
Dan Henderson
Marvino 25/Jun/06 AltLd

Led the second pitch, the Neb Finish

KeithW 24/Jun/06 2nd O/S
DavidR 24/Jun/06 2nd O/S
Steve Mead
Hidden 08/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
bigglesbutcha 03/Jun/06 Lead O/S
steve prior ?/Jun/06 Lead
Hidden 28/May/06 2nd
Hidden 23/Apr/06 AltLd
davidwright 20/Jan/06 Lead O/S
Mat J ??/2006 -
dan gibson ??/2006 -
jackiechimp ??/2006 -
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 2nd
jamesturnbull ??/2006 -
Hidden 18/Oct/05 TR
Charles 18/Oct/05 TR O/S
Tom Fox, Mike Whitehurst
victim of mathematics 25/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Jonny M 25/Sep/05 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/05 Lead O/S
mick1jones ?/Sep/05 2nd
Andy Turner
K Mckay 31/Aug/05 2nd
Richard Mckay
AngelaC 30/Aug/05 Lead
paul birch ?/Jul/05 -
Hidden 29/Apr/05 Lead
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 2nd
Smelly Fox 07/Oct/04 Lead O/S
Rob Clifton
chris warner ?/Oct/04 Lead
Retroman3 22/Aug/04 2nd O/S
Andy Barwell ?/Jul/04 Lead
Hidden 12/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Chesh ??/2004 Lead
Big Pete
Andrew Abraham ??/2004 Lead O/S

in the rain, happy days

donkster ??/2004 Lead O/S
The Mountain Goat 01/Nov/03 AltLd

Lead 1st pitch

Tom Harvey
John HW 24/Aug/03 Lead
Andy Clarke 16/Aug/03 Lead O/S
jimshrimp 20/Jul/03 2nd
Katie Weston ?/Jul/03 2nd
ASchwirtz 21/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Shona D'arcy
Hidden 19/Jun/03 Solo O/S
Digger 18/Apr/03 2nd O/S
James Latham
Hidden ??/2003 -
waldenmatt ??/2003 Lead O/S
Tim Waterworth
petekeron ??/2003 Lead O/S
Lev 19/Oct/02 2nd O/S
Chris Born
chrishedgehog 24/Mar/02 2nd O/S
Joe Thompson
Darragh ??/2002 -
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2002 Lead O/S
Martin Flint
Gus ??/2002 Lead
adamwesthead 17/Sep/01 Lead O/S

Trashed Level 1 Rick on 3rd

Howard J 10/Jul/01 2nd
Mark Ford
Hidden 13/Jan/01 Lead
Stone Muppet ??/2001 -
Hidden 15/Aug/00 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Feb/00 AltLd
ArnaudG ??/2000 -
tlr ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
Howard J 22/Jun/99 Lead dnf

Messed up moving into the upper crack and needed a toprope

Sheila Donelon
antroy 15/May/99 Lead
Hidden 27/Mar/99 Lead
Hidden ??/1999 -
Hidden 26/Sep/98 Lead
Howard J 11/Aug/98 Lead rpt
Steve Astley
Paul-Michael ?/Aug/98 AltLd O/S
Paul Nurse
Budge 04/Jun/98 AltLd O/S
Mike Oates
Mark Riley ??/1998 -
BruceW ??/1998 Lead O/S

Alternbative finish is best

Ian Archer 27/Sep/97 AltLd O/S
Tony Morris
Le Chevalier Mal Fet ?/Jun/97 Lead
adam carless ??/1997 Lead O/S
uni club
smudge 16/Jun/96 AltLd O/S
EddieA 04/May/96 Lead O/S
five ?/May/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May/95 Lead
Jonno 27/May/95 2nd
Duncan Bourne 08/Apr/95 2nd
P Smalley
Hidden ?/Apr/95 AltLd
Hidden ??/1995 Solo O/S
alan moore ??/1995 -
stokienomad 19/May/94 Lead
Hidden 21/Jun/93 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/Apr/93 -
Little Dave
SimonN 24/Jun/92 Lead
KillingtonT 02/Jun/92 AltLd
Mark Drinkwater
nai ??/1992 Lead
malc 12/May/90 Lead
Roget 01/May/90 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/1990 -
andrew300169 ??/1990 -
babymoac 02/Sep/89 Lead
OMSKB ?/Aug/89 -
John Roberts
Iain Thow 17/May/89 Lead
Warwick (Lich)
OMSKB ??/1989 Lead
SPD224 ?/Jun/88 Lead
charlesmfrench 08/Nov/86 Solo O/S
andy gittins ??/1984 -
Nigel Coe 18/Jul/81 AltLd
Steve Portnoi
Nigel Bond 05/Apr/80 Lead
Mark Dixon
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1980 Solo
leland stamper 21/Oct/79 2nd O/S
rogerskews ??/1976 -
Rog Wilko ?/Feb/71 2nd
oldmanofmow ??/1960 Lead

In the old(very) guide it said it was unclimbed so Pete Williams and I climbed it but Ken Podmore thought it had been climbed before

chris sm ??/0000 AltLd O/S
Francis Taylor
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 51
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 50
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set