Staffordshire > Roaches Upper Tier >
 
Hollybush Crack** VS 4b

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Technical Slab >>
[Topping Out up Hollybush Crack, 3 kb]26m. Bridge up the wide lower section of the gully until it is possible to transfer into the crack to the right. Continue up this, passing a possible constricted stance, to the left-hand end of the great roof. Pull over the bulge then either finish easily, or if you are up to it, climb as far as a thread, descend a couple of moves and shuffle rightwards on rounded holds out into space to the final exposed (and thankfully easy) rib. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, 100 Western Grit Stars, Roaches w sobote? :).

Photo: Topping Out up Hollybush Crack © Mike
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 322 logbooks, and on 20 wishlists.

Hidden - 19/Mar/14

druss - 2nd O/S - 08/Mar/14 with Peter Ocampo

poeter210 - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/14 with adrian voss

CptCatastrophe - 01/Mar/14

Ban1 - 2nd O/S - Mar/14

jack 9895 - 2nd O/S - 19/Feb/14

ady'sharma'roe - Lead O/S - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/13

Siobhan McGowan - 05/Oct/13

Montecore - Lead O/S - Oct/13 with Ranveig Berg, Seth Redmond

Hidden - 24/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/13

not very good really.. didn't think 2 stars.
adam06 - Lead - 22/Sep/13 with chris white

Nice climbing.
wishicud climbHVS - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/13 with Big Fat Dan

jasonpm - Lead - 20/Jul/13 with Eddie Webster

paul_j_burgess - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Henry Thompson

vassy05 - Jul/13

p3tersen - 2nd - 29/Jun/13 with Brad Hopkins

felixizzy - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/13

nb148 - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/13 with Yin Yeung

Roger Kirke - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/13

Start was very run out with relatively simple cmimbing. Afterwards switched to some quite technical climbing but with with good gear
Pete_Hamlin - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/13

mikespooner - 2nd O/S - 16/Feb/13 with Roger Kirke

Darcy Turner - Lead - 15/Feb/13

Hidden - 2013

Lauren Davies - 2nd O/S - 13/Oct/12 with Gideon Mordecai

gidmord - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/12 with Lauren Davies

Alex.M-M. - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Colin Horne

Dan Vaj - 2nd - 08/Sep/12 with Khalid

A bit exposed to start with including a prickly holly moment but great once you get going.
khalidq - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Dan Vajzovic

dsgarner - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/12

Robnort - TR O/S - 25/Aug/12 with paul clauston

Jonny M - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Craig Perkins, Karen Chalmers

The Pix - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Craig Perkins, Jon Moulding

Hannes B - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/12 with Mark H

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 21/May/12

LauraCadman - 2nd - 13/May/12

Clive Dean - 2nd β - 13/May/12 with Joe Penfold, Laura Cadman

mdg skidmore - Lead O/S - 13/May/12

Joepenfold - Lead O/S - 13/May/12

Paul Hy - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with Becky

Rob84 - 2nd - 15/Apr/12 with Jonboy

halroberts87 - Lead - 03/Mar/12 with Helen Burgess

Helen.Burgess - 2nd - 03/Mar/12 with Hal Roberts

layback type moves to gain position above the hollybush, couple of hand jams, then straight up through easy corner
Robin Brooke - Lead - Mar/12 with Paula Ryan

Pryan - Lead - Mar/12 with Robin Brooke

JenDurden - 2nd - 19/Feb/12 with Tom Taylor

Amazing climb, 3 stars with Neb finish!
Ross.Cooper - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12 with Robin Wilson

robinmuzette - 2nd - 15/Jan/12 with Ross Cooper

PAJames - 2012

Sam Melville - 2012

Hidden - 2012

dmannion - Lead β - 2012

Dave89 - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/11 with Laura

Very slippery to start.
tiffanykate12 - 2nd - 26/Nov/11

Hidden - Lead - 27/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead - 08/Sep/11

Nigel Bond - Lead - 24/Aug/11 with Bern Hardman

Tom led as one pitch.
stuaart - 2nd O/S - 05/Aug/11 with Thomas Smith, Neil Redgrave

thomasaneurinsmith - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/11 with Neil Redgrave, Stuart Reeves

Mike Turner - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/11 with Bob Butcher

Off-route to start(?) + severe finish
Different Steve - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/11 with Eddie Webster

tompilgrem - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/11 with Nick/D

Hidden - Solo O/S - 12/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 09/Jul/11

Without Neb finish
Dux - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/11 with Andy Smith

Blurgy319 - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Peter Williams

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11

HIGHTOWER - 2nd - 02/Jul/11 with Dylan Williams

williamsd79 - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Mark Freestone

First lead.
WillDoyle - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11

With neb finish!
floss_81 - Lead - 09/Jun/11 with steve ashworth, john frost

Feeling bold - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/11 with AMC Kevin and EGON Issy

mol - Lead - 05/Jun/11 with Jesse

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd - 18/May/11

mcglenr25 - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Francis Charlesworth

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/11

benwhit - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/11

Neil D - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/11 with Owen Rees, Dan Carter

couple of fun moves in the middle to an easy finish
djcarter - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/11 with Neil Dowse

Easy finish
rockman - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/11 with Andrew Edwards, Peter B

enjoyed this climb very much
biffy - 2nd β - 19/Apr/11 with geoff mee

peaker16 - Lead - 19/Apr/11

ed edwards - 2nd - 19/Apr/11 with rockman

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Apr/11

Jonathan Spooner - Lead O/S - Apr/11 with Bob Odale

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/11

Lunar25 - Solo O/S - 08/Mar/11

buxtoncoffeelover - 2nd - 07/Mar/11

beds74 - Lead - 08/Feb/11 with Craig Hartley

Hidden - Solo - 30/Jan/11

JG - 2011

Rory Shaw - 2011

heeley - 2011

John Mckeating - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2nd - 2011

dpitt83 - 2nd O/S - Nov/10 with phil hughes

Lead by Robert
thecurlyone - 2nd O/S - 30/Oct/10 with Robert Dufton, Martin Oldham

MartinWilliams87 - 2nd O/S - 09/Oct/10 with Richard Williams

andysroom - Lead O/S - Oct/10

Led 1st pitch after deciding I didn't fancy the second pitch. However the 1st pitch was much harder and more exciting. 2nd pitch was a bit of a damp squib really.
Leo Woodhead - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Ian W

Ianwesterby - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Leo

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10

ianslade - Lead β - 23/Jun/10 with Tom Greenwood

pldarch - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/10 with Andy Rigby

Spidermunkie - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead - 16/May/10

FrankW - 2nd O/S - 15/May/10 with Andy P, Lee Bonner

Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 15/May/10 with Richard

Emma-Louise Anderson - Lead O/S - 09/May/10 with Jonathan Grant

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 04/May/10

Very enjoyable, did variant finish which is a bit out of keeping but fun all the same
manwithacam - Lead - 19/Apr/10 with Joris

Joris.Roulleau - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Dan Metcalfe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/10

crossdressingrodney - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with John Nuttall

Laura-lou - Lead - 10/Apr/10 with John Dodd

Hidden - Apr/10

Weedyskid - Lead O/S - 2010

Hidden - 2010

GF - 2010

Phil PBC - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 2010

rich_hw - Lead O/S - 2010

gaz_jones - 2nd O/S - 13/Dec/09 with paul southgate

nice route!
brew_guru - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/09 with gareth jones

due to high wind had real problems with communication
peaches69 - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/09 with sarah

ig248 - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Andrew Marshall

Tadams - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/09 with Finnegan Pope-Carter

Hidden - 2nd dog - 29/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/09

Mike W - Solo - 22/Aug/09

Kaiser999 - Lead - 19/Aug/09 with Andy Farrimond

spacey - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/09 with si barrow

marcmac - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/09

chubbyclimber - 18/Jul/09 with Dave

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/09

hellboundblr - 2nd - 01/Jul/09 with Steve P

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jul/09

stvey - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/09 with Jay_Kay

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/09

Danhan - 2nd - 21/Jun/09 with Nick

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jun/09

dannymoo99 - 2nd - 02/Jun/09 with Tom Shooter

seemed much easier this time not sure why i thought it was hard before, finished easily rather than the Neb finish
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 30/May/09 with Sarah New

Irn Bruce - 2nd O/S - 23/May/09 with Ian Jenkins

@ndy - 2nd - 11/May/09 with Jonah

stevemcg - Lead - 10/May/09 with Liz

fizzychewitt - 2nd - 10/May/09 with Steve

highclimber - May/09

Hidden - 26/Apr/09

markblair - 2nd - 20/Apr/09 with Alison Dixon

WillBroad - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/09

rockjock0_1 - 2009 with gary buckle

Col Kingshott - Lead - 2009

keith leonard - 2009

richardhargreaves - Lead - 2009

Hidden - 2009

paulstrutt01 - 2nd - 20/Sep/08 with james oswald

Pumpy first pitch. Spent about half an hour before commiting to both the climb up the next to the crack and the bit above that. Good climb! My hardest VS so far!
James Oswald - Lead O/S - Sep/08 with Antigrav, Strutt

SimonAndersen - Lead O/S - Sep/08 with Kevin Belcher

The grass in the middle after the hard step into the crack needs clearing! It's hiding all the holds. I traversed onto technical slab for a couple of moves from that point to avoid the grass.
LakesWinter - Lead - 23/Aug/08 with gustav

Gustav - 2nd O/S - 23/Aug/08 with Matt G

Hidden - Lead dnf - 27/Jul/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/08

IanJackson - Solo O/S - 17/Mar/08 with Robeverybody

dannyboy83 - 2nd O/S - Feb/08

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Sean Kelly - 2008

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 2008

Hidden - Solo - 16/Nov/07

Went left over the hollybush instead of right, and took the exposed finish!
Eddie Hung - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/07 with Dave Hodgkinson, James Smith

dzlhodgson - 2nd O/S - 04/Nov/07 with Eddie Hung

A Crook - 2nd - 26/Oct/07 with Dom Stockton

Direct finish, as the Neb was green and slippery. Is the route supposed to start to the left of the holly (as in the description) or to the right (as in the topo)? I did the latter, which was nice but rather bold. The BMC guide is no help, as it doesn't tell you or even show it on the topo.
Simon Caldwell - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/07 with Carmen

Graeme Hammond - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/07 with Alex Twist

Jesse Dufton - Lead - Sep/07 with Nick Lambert

b.hayley - Lead O/S - Sep/07

timharrison - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/07 with Trevor Macalonan

Darrell Read - 2nd - 27/Aug/07 with Nick Lambert

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/07

Ing - 2nd - 02/Jun/07 with Jim

KevB - Lead - 31/May/07

Katya - 2nd - 23/May/07 with Chris Coleman

khawk - Lead - 21/Apr/07 with WH

Hidden - Lead - 11/Apr/07

littledave - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/07 with Ian Parkhouse

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/07

Steve Waters, Mynydd - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/07 with Martin Kocsis

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/07

prawn - 2nd - Apr/07 with Graham

Did the variation finish out to the arete above the overhang, quite scary.
Shaw Brown - Lead - 24/Mar/07 with simon blythe

Miles87 - 2nd O/S - Mar/07 with Pete Ellis

sarah87 - 2nd dog - 07/Feb/07 with Nick Cox

trevor macalonan - 2nd O/S - 2007 with Tim

Birdo - 2007 with Dave Bird

timmy-ts - 2007

Diggler - Lead - 2007

Chewie - Lead O/S - 2007

Hidden - Lead - 2007

chrisallan - Lead O/S - 2007

Adam Potter - Lead O/S - 05/Nov/06

Matt Shepherd - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/06

Hidden - Solo O/S - 15/Sep/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/06

Did the alternative finish and thought it well worth the run-out. Leads into a fine position.
steev - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/06 with Raph B

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/06

jonnyboy - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/06 with Tom C

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/06

climbed pitch 2 in combo with technical slab in one runout. Quite green but that seemed to add to the fun. not hard for 4b.
colin milton - Lead - 21/Jul/06 with horace

markju - 2nd O/S - 08/Jul/06 with karl

Paul Burgess - Lead - 29/Jun/06 with Dan Henderson

Led the second pitch, the Neb Finish
Marvino - AltLd - 25/Jun/06 with steve

KeithW - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/06 with Corky

DavidR - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/06 with Steve Mead

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/06

bigglesbutcha - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/06 with Clive Ceney

Hidden - 2nd - 28/May/06

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Apr/06

davidwright - Lead O/S - 20/Jan/06

Mat J - 2006

dan gibson - 2006

jackiechimp - 2006

John Lisle - 2006

Hidden - 2nd - 2006

jamesturnbull - 2006

Hidden - TR - 18/Oct/05

Charles - TR O/S - 18/Oct/05 with Tom Fox, Mike Whitehurst

victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/05 with Jon

Jonny M - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/05 with Victim of Maths

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/05

mick1jones - 2nd - Sep/05 with Andy Turner

K Mckay - 2nd - 31/Aug/05 with Richard Mckay

Hidden - Jul/05

Hidden - Lead - 29/Apr/05

mark s - 2005

Hidden - 2nd - 2005

Smelly Fox - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/04 with Rob Clifton

chris warner - Lead - Oct/04 with sandhurst

Retroman3 - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/04 with Yan

Andy Barwell - Lead - Jul/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/04

Chesh - Lead - 2004 with Big Pete

in the rain, happy days
Andrew Abraham - Lead O/S - 2004

donkster - Lead O/S - 2004 with trigg

Lead 1st pitch
The Mountain Goat - AltLd - 01/Nov/03 with Tom Harvey

John HW - Lead - 24/Aug/03 with Cath

Andy Clarke - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/03 with RobS

Katie Weston - 2nd - Jul/03

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/03 with Shona D'arcy

Hidden - Solo O/S - 19/Jun/03

Digger - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/03 with James Latham

Hidden - 2003

fawlty - Lead O/S - 2003 with Tim Waterworth

petekeron - Lead O/S - 2003

Lev - 2nd O/S - 19/Oct/02 with Chris Born

chrishedgehog - 2nd O/S - 24/Mar/02 with Joe Thompson

Darragh - 2002

Trashed Level 1 Rick on 3rd
adamwesthead - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/01 with Taylor

Howard J - 2nd - 10/Jul/01 with Mark Ford

Stone Muppet - 2001

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/00

ArnaudG - 2000

tlr - Lead - 2000

Hidden - Lead - 2000

marcoleptic - Lead - 2000

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

Messed up moving into the upper crack and needed a toprope
Howard J - Lead dnf - 22/Jun/99 with Sheila Donelon

antroy - Lead - 15/May/99

Hidden - Lead - 27/Mar/99

Tarquin - 1999

Hidden - Lead - 26/Sep/98

Howard J - Lead rpt - 11/Aug/98 with Steve Astley

Paul-Michael - AltLd O/S - Aug/98 with Paul Nurse

Budge - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/98 with Mike Oates

Mark Riley - 1998

Alternbative finish is best
BruceW - Lead O/S - 1998

Ian Archer - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/97 with Tony Morris

Le Chevalier Mal Fet - Lead - Jun/97

adam carless - Lead O/S - 1997 with uni club

smudge - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/96 with Rich

EddieA - Lead O/S - 04/May/96 with NCMC

five - Lead O/S - May/96

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/95

Duncan Bourne - 2nd - 08/Apr/95 with P Smalley

andybrown114 - AltLd - Apr/95 with Austen Worth

Hidden - Solo O/S - 1995

stokienomad - Lead - 19/May/94

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/93

whispering nic - Apr/93 with Little Dave

SimonN - Lead - 24/Jun/92

KillingtonT - AltLd - 02/Jun/92 with Mark Drinkwater

nai - Lead - 1992

malc - Lead - 12/May/90

Roget - Solo O/S - 01/May/90

Hidden - 1990

andrew300169 - 1990

babymoac - Lead - 02/Sep/89 with Sid

OMSKB - Aug/89 with John Roberts

Iain Thow - Lead - 17/May/89 with Warwick (Lich)

OMSKB - Lead - 1989

SPD224 - Lead - Jun/88

charlesmfrench - Solo O/S - 08/Nov/86

andy gittins - 1984

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 18/Jul/81 with Steve Portnoi

Nigel Bond - Lead - 05/Apr/80 with Mark Dixon

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Solo - 1980

leland stamper - 2nd O/S - 21/Oct/79

rogerskews - 1976

Rog Wilko - 2nd - Feb/71 with ??

In the old(very) guide it said it was unclimbed so Pete Williams and I climbed it but Ken Podmore thought it had been climbed before
oldmanofmow - Lead - 1960

chris sm - AltLd O/S - 0000 with Francis Taylor

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
SuperLee1985, Hidden, ruthonbike, Hidden, Hidden, schristophersmith, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, hapymike, Ander, rocktigger, franny, Hidden, Kamikaze Badger, WILLS, Hidden, silhouette, Hidden, pottsworth

Voting
Total votes cast 122
hard HVS0 of 41
HVS0 of 41
easy HVS0 of 41
hard VS0 of 41
VS25 of 41
easy VS7 of 41
hard HS9 of 41
HS0 of 41
easy HS0 of 41
hard 4c0 of 41
4c0 of 41
easy 4c1 of 41
hard 4b5 of 41
4b31 of 41
easy 4b3 of 41
hard 4a1 of 41
4a0 of 41
easy 4a0 of 41
3 Stars6 of 40
2 Stars23 of 40
1 Star10 of 40
0 Stars1 of 40
Bag of .....0 of 40
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Style of ascent

Soloed12 of 322 (3.7%)
Lead156 of 322 (48.4%)
Followed87 of 322 (27.0%)
Toproped3 of 322 (0.9%)
Alt Leads15 of 322 (4.7%)
Unknown49 of 322 (15.2%)

'Climbed'154 of 322 (47.8%)
clean O/S154 of 322 (47.8%)
clean β4 of 322 (1.2%)
clean rpt5 of 322 (1.6%)
dogged3 of 322 (0.9%)
dnf2 of 322 (0.6%)