Rockfax Description
24m. Probably the biggest roof pitch on grit and truly magnificent. From directly above Technical Slab, place loads of gear at the back of the roof then attack it at its widest point, using the fragile glued flake with care. From the hole (spike runner and hands-off rest possible), pull back to the vertical using tiny rugosities (crux) and climb the wall more easily. Photo page 12. © Rockfax

FA. Simon Nadin 1985

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/16/Eighties Gritstone :The Shape of Things to Come, Consumed.

nathanlee 05/Oct/13 Lead β

Flash on Dad's gear. Scary pulling hard on the glued undercut!

with Dom Lee
dominic lee 05/Oct/13 Lead β

Superb! Great day on the Roaches.

ChrisBrooke 27/Jul/13 2nd

One of the hardest climbs I've seconded. Amazing moves through the roof (glued on pocket) and a tough crozley headwall. I didn't rest properly in the birds' nest so completely spanked myself on this one :(

with Dan McManus
jacobjacob 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Tensioned the sling to the floor via the back of the roof with a second rope.

pipof747 05/Jun/11 Lead RP
Ram MkiV 18/Oct/07 Lead β

after reeve, with the tensioned sling in place. what a route. unique and memorable perched up in that cave.

with reeve
andi turner 04/Oct/06 Lead β
with Mark Sharratt
Hidden ??/2004 Lead β
chrishedgehog 24/Mar/02 TR dnf

Oooh, so close to an O/S, slipped off what was basically the top-out. Roof manoevres really satisfying.

with Mark Gill
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Liam Ingram, Alistair Corbett, climb the peak, Hidden, dean79, mattrm, rustaldo, Diggler, Hidden, Hidden, Alex Mason, Hidden, Hidden
High E7
Mid E7
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High E6
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High E5
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High 6b
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High 6a
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High 5c
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Votes cast 12
Style of ascent
Flashed (β)
Not Set