Staffordshire > Roaches Upper Tier >
 
Right Route Right* HS 4b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Right Route
 
Kelly's Direct >>
[An unintended sit down on right route right, 1 kb]14m. Follow Right Route to the overhang then pull over this to gain the hanging groove just above and follow this to the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS.

Photo: An unintended sit down on right route right © Mark Loveday
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 124 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Dan Vaj - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/14 with Dave Minshall

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/14

jtree03 - Lead - 04/Apr/14 with Jim, Tony

jimbonfire - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/14

The definitive guide has this at VS 4b, which I think is about right. Only 1-2 hard moves through the overhang, which would be very tricky if you don't know how to jam. Well protected by friends and nuts though. A friend 4 (or maybe a large hex) protects the final moves.
Le Chevalier Mal Fet - Lead - 30/Mar/14 with Dan Chadfield

Horrible thrutchy finish
DanChad - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/14 with Chris Murray

knighty - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/14 with Dan Roberts

Matt Cooke - 2nd β - 08/Mar/14 with Rosh

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Mar/14

Hidden - 2014

gavster - AltLd - 06/Oct/13 with rob

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/13

Paul Hy - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/13 with Adam H, Dave E

Darcy Turner - Lead - 15/Feb/13

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Sep/12

Jonny M - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Craig Perkins, Karen Chalmers

Fell off after it started hammering down with rain, hands slipped and end up pointing the wrong way down the slab and hitting my head heavily. This route is easier for the tall.
matthomas79 - Lead dnf - 13/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/12

jjclarke70 - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/12 with Saul

brew_guru - Lead O/S - Jan/12 with matt mee

Charlie Zephyr Booth - AltLd O/S - 2012 with martin broadhurst

Sam Melville - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Jon Read - Solo O/S - 06/Nov/11

Lauren Davies - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/11 with Dave Moir

Didn't fancy Kelly's direct, so escaped on this.
Daniel Heath - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/11

Nigel Bond - Lead - 24/Aug/11 with Bern Hardman

vix - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/11 with luke

gd303uk - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/11 with Alisingo

chris687 - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/11 with Jo Sumner

Only one hard move, but it is quite a move.
stuaart - 2nd O/S - 05/Aug/11 with Thomas Smith, Neil Redgrave

thomasaneurinsmith - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/11 with Neil Redgrave, Stuart Reeves

A nice climb, nice moves to pull up over the overhang.
Kylie - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with mullermn

Nice route, enjoyable move round the overhang. Guidebook calls this VS and I think that's probably fair.
mullermn - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11

Quite hard for a HS 4b!
Hoyes - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/11 with Rachel B

Hard severe? Whatever...!
Batt - 2nd dog - 14/Jun/11 with James Hoyes

mol - Lead - 05/Jun/11 with Jesse

DerbyLiam - Lead O/S - 08/May/11

Marvino - Lead - 19/Apr/11

samsimpson - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Christian Turford

alias dave - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Sam.EB

ali newman ukc - 2nd - Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 21/Mar/11

Lunar25 - Solo O/S - 08/Mar/11

thefuturesmiles - Lead O/S - Mar/11 with Jack Bramhall

Hidden - 2011

John Mckeating - 2011

adam 24 - Lead O/S - 2011

Ballsy finish.
MarkRoe - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/10 with John Niven

lostinmidlands - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/10 with troelsS

MartinWilliams87 - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/10 with Richard Williams

fraserbarrett - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/10

dja - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/10 with Andy Smith

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/10

Gigga - 2nd O/S - Jul/10

b.hayley - Lead rpt - 05/Jun/10

Jim Malo - 2nd dog - 30/May/10

Climbed with as much elegance as a beached whale!
JezH - Lead O/S - 19/May/10

very hard middle section (but gear available) and little protection in top section. Did it as an "easy" route - quite a nasty surprise !
Stoff - Lead O/S - 18/May/10 with gpcomps

gpcomps - 2nd O/S - 18/May/10 with Chris Bridgland

Hidden - Lead - 16/May/10

Hard move for HS. Not the best warm up.
manwithacam - 2nd - 19/Apr/10 with Joris

Joris.Roulleau - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Dan Metcalfe

Hidden - 2nd - Mar/10

stefie c - Lead - Mar/10 with Steve Jones, John Powell

GF - 2010

Phil PBC - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 2010

pie_eater_pete - 2010

Ken Taylor - 2010

Mike W - Solo - 22/Aug/09

simonw1 - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with Andy H

hellboundblr - 2nd - 01/Jul/09 with Steve P

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/09

rockjock0_1 - 2009 with gary buckle

Mr Wild - Solo - 2009

keith leonard - 2009

ChesterChris - 2009

Rose Williams - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/08 with Tommy B

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - Feb/08

Lauren Davies - Lead O/S - 29/Jan/08

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 2008

Hidden - Solo - 16/Nov/07

Hidden - Lead - Oct/07

Jesse Dufton - Lead - Sep/07 with Nick Lambert

simonw1 - 2nd - 24/Mar/07 with Heather Lewis

deanroberts - Lead O/S - 2007

2RoyalAnglian - Lead O/S - 2007 with mark ansty

Hidden - 2nd - 2007

Chewie - Lead O/S - 2007

Phil Jennings - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/06 with Anna Jennings, Jo Jennings, Pete Jennings

WillBroad - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/06

John HW - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/06 with Cath

C.J.Horsfield - Lead O/S - 2006 with tom boyle

mark s - 2005

3 falls!
Dux - Lead dog - 14/Nov/04 with Rob Mirfin

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/May/04

James B - 24/Aug/03

jamie ward - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/03 with John Howes

fawlty - Lead O/S - 2003 with Tim Waterworth

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 2002

Hidden - Lead - 2000

Marti999 - Lead - 1995

brady - 2nd - 1995 with John Cameron

nai - Lead - 1992

Roget - Solo O/S - 27/Apr/90

Hidden - Solo O/S - 13/Jan/90

andrew300169 - 1990

SPD224 - Lead - Jun/88

leland stamper - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/81

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Solo - 1980

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/78

GeoffG - Lead - 07/Mar/76

rogerskews - Solo - 1974

oldmanofmow - Lead - 1959

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
SuperLee1985, ruthonbike, Hidden, Hidden, WILLS

Voting
Total votes cast 67
hard VS1 of 23
VS0 of 23
easy VS21 of 23
hard HS1 of 23
HS0 of 23
easy HS0 of 23
hard S0 of 23
S0 of 23
easy S0 of 23
hard 4c1 of 26
4c0 of 26
easy 4c22 of 26
hard 4b0 of 26
4b3 of 26
easy 4b0 of 26
hard 4a0 of 26
4a0 of 26
easy 4a0 of 26
3 Stars0 of 18
2 Stars4 of 18
1 Star8 of 18
0 Stars4 of 18
Bag of .....2 of 18
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Style of ascent

Soloed10 of 124 (8.1%)
Lead66 of 124 (53.2%)
Followed27 of 124 (21.8%)
Alt Leads4 of 124 (3.2%)
Unknown17 of 124 (13.7%)

'Climbed'49 of 124 (39.5%)
clean O/S68 of 124 (54.8%)
clean β1 of 124 (0.8%)
clean rpt2 of 124 (1.6%)
dogged3 of 124 (2.4%)
dnf1 of 124 (0.8%)