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Kelly's Direct** E1 5b

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[Ben Kelsey on Kellys Direct Roaches, 3 kb]14m. From the shelf (see below), climb the crack on the left to a flake and follow this, and then rounded pockets, to the crest. © ROCKFAX

Photo: Ben Kelsey on Kellys Direct Roaches © benkelsey
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 68 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

Balancy move crossing the cracks
Souljah - 2nd - 21/Oct/12 with Andi, Mark, Dave, Pete

mark s - Lead - 21/Oct/12 with andi,ed

Wayne S - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/12

Whitters - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/12

Haydn Jones - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/12 with pep

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Aug/12

tough moves at crux v.bold above although easy. great route v.absorbing
Mark Warnett - Lead O/S - Aug/12

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12

GF - 2nd - 10/Jun/12

First bit of trad of 2012, felt soooo good to be back on it! Nice steep and exposed little crux moves
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 12/Jan/12 with Paul, Neil

Neil Stansbie - 2nd - Jan/12 with Mike Goldthrop

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11

warm up, one committing swing out right then pretty standard grit.
benkelsey - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/11 with Jack Kelsey

sam.sam.sam.ferguson - 2nd rpt - 04/Jul/11 with Rich Fox

el_monty - Lead rpt - 04/Jul/11 with sam ferguson

sam.sam.sam.ferguson - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Rich Fox

one awkward move, had hoped for some better runners in the crack - small cams would be better than wires.
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/11 with Nick, Claire

Nick1812P - 2nd O/S - 27/Apr/11 with Jamie

llamaglama - 2nd - 27/Apr/11 with Jam

pord - 01/Jan/11

Rory Shaw - 2011

The ledge below the traverse is a bit intimidating even on second, you can just see a fall ending in you hitting it
llamaglama - 2nd O/S - 2011 with Nick, Jam

tatz45 - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/10 with Emma Anderson

The steepness of the crux was overwhelming even on second, but the moves were fine and the holds were great.
Emma-Louise Anderson - 2nd - 14/Oct/10 with Paul Tattersall

Good route which felt easy for the grade. I should be pushing harder though. Difficulties felt short lived, easily overcome and well protected (despite the suggestion of one of the guidebooks anyway)
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/10

very serious for E1!
shafman - 2nd - 05/Sep/10 with saul

john.gaffney - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with dan m

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10

tomB - 2nd O/S - 23/May/10 with John walton

Done on my first trad rock climbing day of the year. Very good route, technical and quite bold.
Misha - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Ken

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd - Mar/10

Hidden - Lead - 2010

donkster - Lead rpt - 23/Oct/09 with crooko

smudger384 - 2nd dog - 20/Sep/09

sgl0jd - Lead - 13/Jun/09

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Marek

aspyrex - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Martin Haworth

Hidden - Lead - 11/Apr/09

keith leonard - Lead - 2009

juza - Lead - 09/Feb/08 with Garry Cooper

daveagriff - 2nd - 2008

Sean Kelly - 2008

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 2008

Not too sure of the line - I didn't see a flake anywhere. Found it pretty tough.
max_chan - Lead O/S - 26/May/07 with Lou

donkster - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/07 with jus

reg_measures - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/07 with Cameron Berry

Hidden - Lead - 03/Feb/07

Hidden - Lead - Dec/06

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/06 with AJ

Stig - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/06 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Sep/06

Jez - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/05

datoon - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/05 with RT

mark s - 2005

Coel Hellier - Lead - 2005

martroberts - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/04

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2002

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/96

nige - Lead - 1995 with dave kells

Michael Hood - Lead - 25/May/92

whispering nic - 13/Oct/91 with slow hand nick

Roget - Solo rpt - 04/Jun/91

Roget - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/91

andy gittins - 1984

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
MikeStuart26, Hidden, stvey, Michael Hood, johnpr, jamesgodwin64, Hidden, Hidden, Pem

Voting
Total votes cast 34
hard E20 of 12
E20 of 12
easy E21 of 12
hard E15 of 12
E15 of 12
easy E10 of 12
hard HVS1 of 12
HVS0 of 12
easy HVS0 of 12
hard 5c0 of 12
5c0 of 12
easy 5c0 of 12
hard 5b3 of 12
5b8 of 12
easy 5b0 of 12
hard 5a1 of 12
5a0 of 12
easy 5a0 of 12
3 Stars3 of 10
2 Stars5 of 10
1 Star2 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....0 of 10
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 68 (1.5%)
Lead37 of 68 (54.4%)
Followed24 of 68 (35.3%)
Unknown6 of 68 (8.8%)

'Climbed'28 of 68 (41.2%)
clean O/S35 of 68 (51.5%)
clean rpt4 of 68 (5.9%)
dogged1 of 68 (1.5%)