Kelly's Direct** E1 5b
[Evening on the Roaches, 3 kb]14m. From the shelf (see below), climb the crack on the left to a flake and follow this, and then rounded pockets, to the crest. © ROCKFAX

Photo: Evening on the Roaches © davidj
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 86 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

The first bit up the crack is fine. Then you get to the middle bit, where you are like 'and the hand holds are where exactly?' Then realisation dawns that the 'barely a pinch' is it for your right hand hold, and you just have to go for it.
Katsmiff - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/14 with Justyn Philpot

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/14

Took a while before doing the crux, ace route, nice quest to the top
Andrew Abraham - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/14 with Sam Riley

WillDoyle - Lead O/S - Jun/14

Noodles30 - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/14

Tricky crux moves. Nice route.
Calum Wadsworth - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/14 with Alex

Great line. Some tough moves, but mostly well protected by small cams and wires. It took me a while to work out what to do after stepping off the ledge to get to the pockets, but the moves are great fun!
MSchobitz - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/14 with Tom Appleby, Calum Wadsworth

amccann - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/14 with Calum W

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Mar/14

Ban1 - 2nd rpt - Mar/14

Hidden - 2014

Mike W - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13

Mayaculpa - 2nd dog - 27/Aug/13 with Chris Gudgeon

Didn't think and went slightly off route on the move from the ledge so had to rest on gear!
Gudge - Lead dog - 27/Aug/13 with Mike Unwin

Chris wanted another go at it
Mayaculpa - 2nd dog - 27/Aug/13 with Chris Gudgeon

Removed all gear and led it cleanly no problem - why didn't I do that first time !? Good route.
Gudge - Lead rpt - 27/Aug/13 with Mike Unwin

Hidden - 2nd dog - 21/May/13

Balancy move crossing the cracks
Souljah - 2nd - 21/Oct/12 with Andi, Mark, Dave, Pete

mark s - Lead - 21/Oct/12 with andi,ed

Wayne S - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/12

Whitters - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/12

Haydn Jones - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/12 with pep

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Aug/12

tough moves at crux v.bold above although easy. great route v.absorbing
Mark Warnett - Lead O/S - Aug/12

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12

GF - 2nd - 10/Jun/12

First bit of trad of 2012, felt soooo good to be back on it! Nice steep and exposed little crux moves
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 12/Jan/12 with Paul, Neil

Neil Stansbie - 2nd - Jan/12 with Mike Goldthrop

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11

warm up, one committing swing out right then pretty standard grit.
benkelsey - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/11 with Jack Kelsey

sam.sam.sam.ferguson - 2nd rpt - 04/Jul/11 with Rich Fox

el_monty - Lead rpt - 04/Jul/11 with sam ferguson

sam.sam.sam.ferguson - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Rich Fox

one awkward move, had hoped for some better runners in the crack - small cams would be better than wires.
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/11 with Nick, Claire Holland

Nick1812P - 2nd O/S - 27/Apr/11 with Jamie

llamaglama - 2nd - 27/Apr/11 with Jam

pord - 01/Jan/11

Rory Shaw - 2011

The ledge below the traverse is a bit intimidating even on second, you can just see a fall ending in you hitting it
llamaglama - 2nd O/S - 2011 with Nick, Jam

tatz45 - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/10 with Emma Anderson

The steepness of the crux was overwhelming even on second, but the moves were fine and the holds were great.
Emma-Louise Anderson - 2nd - 14/Oct/10 with Paul Tattersall

Good route which felt easy for the grade. I should be pushing harder though. Difficulties felt short lived, easily overcome and well protected (despite the suggestion of one of the guidebooks anyway)
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/10

very serious for E1!
shafiq lalloo - 2nd - 05/Sep/10 with saul

john.gaffney - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with dan m

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10

tomB - 2nd O/S - 23/May/10 with John walton

Done on my first trad rock climbing day of the year. Very good route, technical and quite bold.
Misha - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Ken

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd - Mar/10

Hidden - Lead - 2010

donkster - Lead rpt - 23/Oct/09 with crooko

Hidden - 2nd dog - 20/Sep/09

sgl0jd - Lead - 13/Jun/09

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Marek

aspyrex - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Martin Haworth

Hidden - Lead - 11/Apr/09

keith leonard - Lead - 2009

juza - Lead - 09/Feb/08 with Garry Cooper

daveagriff - 2nd - 2008

Sean Kelly - 2008

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 2008

Not too sure of the line - I didn't see a flake anywhere. Found it pretty tough.
max_chan - Lead O/S - 26/May/07 with Lou

donkster - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/07 with jus

reg_measures - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/07 with Cameron Berry

Hidden - Lead - 03/Feb/07

Hidden - Lead - Dec/06

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/06 with AJ

Stig - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/06 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Sep/06

Jez - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/05

datoon - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/05 with RT

mark s - 2005

Coel Hellier - Lead - 2005

martroberts - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/04

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2003

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2002

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/96

nige - Lead - 1995 with dave kells

Michael Hood - Lead - 25/May/92

whispering nic - 13/Oct/91 with slow hand nick

Roget - Solo rpt - 04/Jun/91

Roget - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/91 with casper

andy gittins - 1984

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
callumbtaylor, Chownsy, hfisher, Michael Hood, johnpr, jamesgodwin64, Pem

Voting
Total votes cast 46
hard E20 of 16
E20 of 16
easy E21 of 16
hard E19 of 16
E15 of 16
easy E10 of 16
hard HVS1 of 16
HVS0 of 16
easy HVS0 of 16
hard 5c0 of 16
5c0 of 16
easy 5c0 of 16
hard 5b3 of 16
5b12 of 16
easy 5b0 of 16
hard 5a1 of 16
5a0 of 16
easy 5a0 of 16
3 Stars3 of 14
2 Stars8 of 14
1 Star3 of 14
0 Stars0 of 14
Bag of .....0 of 14
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