Staffordshire > Roaches Upper Tier >
 
Easy Gully Wall S 4a

Adjacent Climbs
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Jelly Roll >>
[Alistair Bown climbing, 3 kb]20m. Climb to a block to the right of the gully then continue leftwards to a ledge. Move up and left to a higher one then take the flake to the overhangs and escape leftwards under these. © ROCKFAX

Photo: Alistair Bown climbing © showfaman
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 268 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Jul/14

nwakeman - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/14 with Mark Allwood

smargerison - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/14 with Carolyn

cdpuk - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/14 with Andrew Gilmartin, Lucy Evans

KLucy - 2nd - 05/Jul/14 with Chris Peka aka BF

Robnort - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Dave Allen, paul clauston

CameronH - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/14 with Andrew Cherenkov

ht543 - 2nd - 08/Jun/14 with Krish

Interesting traverse!
rohai545 - Lead - 08/Jun/14 with Helen

vanderz - Solo - Jun/14

vanderz - Solo - Jun/14

Backed down due to heavily greened holds (hands and feet) after the initial block. Unpleasant.
andyevans - Lead dnf - 29/May/14 with cdpuk

That steep middle wall was good value - but I agree that the route is a bit broken overall
Babika - Lead O/S - 19/May/14 with Sean Toms

theandthem - 03/May/14

stacey73 - 2nd O/S - May/14

We thought this was rubbish! Far too easy for Severe and a very broken line.
pdamann - 2nd β - 19/Apr/14 with J Colledge

Mayaculpa - Lead - 18/Apr/14 with Steve

Markheighton - Lead - 20/Mar/14

Alex_Derbyshire - Lead - 20/Mar/14

deejmonkey - Lead - 08/Mar/14 with Tom, matt

tomparrott - Lead - 08/Mar/14 with DJ

ady'sharma'roe - Lead O/S - 2014

Jeester - 2nd O/S - 01/Dec/13 with Josh, Felix

Rockfax says Hvd 4a, we disagreed S4a for sure.
AndyRogers - 2nd O/S - 30/Nov/13 with ianlaw

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/13

kleinej - 2nd O/S - 20/Oct/13 with Patrick

carl roberts - Lead - 10/Oct/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/13

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead - 29/Sep/13

buxtoncoffeelover - Solo - 14/Sep/13

Quite liked this.
pheotleyr - 2nd β - 18/Aug/13 with Mike

Mayaculpa - Lead - 18/Aug/13 with Peter

gsavell - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Sarah Knight

Guidebook said HVD but felt harder
ruthonbike - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Rowan Shaw, 55pete55

55pete55 - 2nd - 08/Jun/13

sk8world19 - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with ricky

Ppocketwatch - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/13 with Tom Jenkins

Hidden - 2nd - Mar/13

fuzzysheep01 - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/13 with Andre and Jamie (OUMC)

Hidden - 2nd β - 17/Feb/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Dec/12

barryp08 - Lead O/S - 16/Dec/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Dec/12

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Nov/12

ElvisLeg - Lead O/S - 28/Oct/12 with Sally

Hidden - 28/Oct/12

cem - Solo O/S - 27/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/12

TRFrost - Solo O/S - 14/Oct/12

daviesp2 - Lead - 09/Sep/12 with Greg Richards

Dan Vaj - 2nd - 08/Sep/12 with Khalid

Nasty rope drag with a single rope.
khalidq - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Dan Vajzovic

HarryB - Solo O/S - 06/Sep/12

Goody - 2nd rpt - 04/Sep/12 with Billy Goodman

BGoodman - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/12 with Dave Goodman

kozzi - 2nd O/S - 02/Sep/12 with John-Henry

jelaby - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/12 with CoffeePot

coffeepot - 2nd - 01/Sep/12 with jelaby

_MJC_ - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/12

VD in the BMC Roaches guide!! I felt this was severe, because of the lack of gear at crucial points! also horrible rounded holds on the traverse, and the top of the slab. Any new VD leaders could end up in a lot of trouble on this route!
Fiskavaig - Lead - 09/Aug/12 with Matt Clarke

Did the start of this then finished up Jelly Roll
Babika - 2nd - 15/Jul/12 with Charles Leek

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/12

Nick Ashwood - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/12 with Rebecca Griffey

HairyMan - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/12 with Zoe Taylor

Goose4 - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/12 with Alex Haslehurst

tsl42 - Lead O/S - Jul/12 with Andy

Pleasant climb- much better than it looks.
bobpilgrem - 2nd - 12/Jun/12 with Bob/Nic

Relatively straight forward climbing made more difficult by lack of areas for protection. I recommend having a good long look at your guide book before starting. Interesting for the inexperienced.
Dan Simcox - Lead - 10/Jun/12 with Mark James Kowal

Palindrome - Lead dnf - Jun/12

terri mc - 2nd β - 29/May/12 with Andy Shardlow

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/May/12

lenn1346 - Lead O/S - 23/May/12 with Mark T

Hidden - 2nd - 23/May/12

Steve J P - Lead - 20/May/12 with JD, BW

sp led
Bernie Wylde - 2nd - 20/May/12 with jd, sp

jjclarke70 - Lead O/S - 19/May/12 with Ben, Sam

dan100589 - 2nd dog - May/12

Hidden - Lead - 15/Apr/12

Kamikaze Badger - 2nd - 15/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12

First lead in a while, but felt good. Almost went off route trying to traverse too early and should've used halves as there was a lot of rope drag.
da_cox - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/12 with Marlin, Miriam Overitt, Richard Overitt, Andy Overitt

Nice couple of hours at Roaches after going to see the Otters and Owls. Did some easy bouldering and soloed this. Thought moves felt harder than VD. Some nice moves but broken by large ledges.
Double Knee Bar - Solo O/S - 31/Mar/12

franhammond92 - Lead - 25/Mar/12

birthers - 2nd - 11/Mar/12 with Caroline C

caroline256 - Lead - 11/Mar/12 with Tom B

Morgan P - 2nd O/S - 25/Feb/12 with Tara O'Neil

TDSvejstrup - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/12

mew - Lead - 13/Jan/12

wirralclimber1984 - Solo O/S - 20/Nov/11

Went up to the crux of crack and corner then traversed left. Fun variation!
carlc75 - 2nd O/S - 05/Nov/11

Suprisingly good!
Emma-Louise Anderson - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/11 with Mark Hatton

Mark Hatton - 2nd O/S - 30/Oct/11 with Emma louise anderson

swoollock - Lead - 26/Oct/11

cragant - 2nd - 26/Oct/11

Got too much rope drag (wanders a bit so difficult to keep rope straight) so pitched at ledge, first part the most interesting. Almost lost cam at belay point!
ipblake - AltLd O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Tim

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11

nic42 - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Fran

JaseSSDD - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/11 with Ant Bury

Boran - 2nd - 26/Sep/11 with Neil, Matt Page

albt - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead - 08/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Aug/11

made loads of rope drag and temporarily got off route!
katherinesydney - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/11 with steve mount

the intention was to practice the overhang at the finish of Crack and Corner.
Paul Hy - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/11 with Ian

PeteArcher - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Krista

Krista - 2nd - 11/Jun/11 with Pete Archer

minirollsrule - Lead O/S - 19/May/11

climbingxcat - Lead - 19/May/11 with Brian

lewismansell - Lead β - 06/May/11

naughtybadboy - Lead - 24/Apr/11 with John Shelley

tough, as I went too far right, up part of 'crack and corner' and then had a really hairy traverse
hms - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Andy

Rock Zigger - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/11

Enjoyable, felt hard for HVD, with a hard move or two at the start then the traverse left at mid height. Another one that makes you think a bit.
Stuart Hurworth - 2nd O/S - 09/Mar/11 with Marcus Levens

Hidden - Lead - 09/Mar/11

spbond - Lead rpt - 06/Mar/11 with Vignasty

really liked it
scotty h - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/11 with Lewis Mansell

John Mckeating - 2011

Seemed quite hard, until I did it right!
Matt Bill Platypus - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/10 with Charley

charlotteharper - 2nd - 24/Oct/10 with Matt Jones

marshy_88 - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/10 with daneil rylett

elbeanio - 2nd - 10/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead - 10/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead - 01/Sep/10

Attempted, backed off after lack of gear. Only to be shown my errors with 'friends' and an 'old' experienced hand'.
taps323 - Sep/10 with Nicolas Genevieve, Ray Sullivan

Hidden - Lead - 22/Aug/10

hmm, not much gear at the bottom and for the traverse, not hard but not really a nice climb
najki_2000 - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Chris Rose

Toby led the first part.
manik - 07/Aug/10 with Toby Knight

liverpooldave - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10

Hidden - TR O/S - 13/Jul/10

Pleased to find this listed as a Severe on here. In Western Grit it's listed as HVD, and it felt hard for the grade. The middle traverse section is tricky and hard to protect, but overall I really enjoyed this. I probably wouldn't have tried it if it had been graded severe in the guidebook!
Abu777 - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10 with Dave Stelmach

trish1968 - 2nd - 22/Jun/10 with Nick Bennett

Hidden - Lead - 22/Jun/10

cj1970 - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/10

nice climb up with a fair traverse
ben comery - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/10 with Luke

Hidden - Solo - 02/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/May/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 09/May/10

With Ben. Insert a comma between "Gully" and "Wall" - the wall isn't easy. The start isn't easy, and the traverse across the wall in the middle is decidely hard.
Andrew Bangs - Lead O/S - 02/May/10 with Ben Morgan

Was a bit slimy and less pleasant than expected
Marc-G - 2nd O/S - 01/May/10

Zoomer - Lead - 25/Apr/10 with A Student

gilbert - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Andy Holder

Gashworth - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10

Neil Metcalfe101 - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Phil 'the Duke'

p_won - Lead - Apr/10 with Stuart Crosbie

partz - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/10 with Dan Smart, Tim Clark

roberts1234567890 - Lead - 12/Mar/10

The word 'easy' is ambiguous...! some nice touches but only found one way through the route. Managed to get to the main ledge and decided to set a belay due to rope drag. Second got to the traverse and slipped right in the middle. my last gear was a few feet further, so he swung straight into the gulley. a bit of a shock really, so we couldnt recover from that and i had to ab' off from there. yahh booo i'll be back.
ungracefulathlete - Lead dog - 28/Feb/10 with Jason Challinor

Englishvoodoo - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/10 with Richard Wardle

Hidden - Lead dog - 13/Feb/10

Hidden - Lead - 10/Feb/10

rich.mike - Lead O/S - 10/Feb/10

Phil PBC - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/09

adam.wheeler - 2nd - 04/Oct/09 with Ewan Chamings, Maria Thorpe

Sketchy. Decided against leading due to lack of protection.
rocklobster - 2nd - 27/Sep/09 with Simon

simozzer - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/09 with Matt

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/09

WillBroad - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/09

matthomas79 - Lead - 12/Sep/09

Very easy climb, couldnt place much gear though.
Kingsjester - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Hannah King

JCB42 - Lead - 12/Sep/09 with Alaina Beacall

Rick Ashton - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/09 with Richard McElligot

RichardMc - Lead - 05/Sep/09 with Richard Ashton

greggyboy - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/09 with Martin Heaton, Silje Hauge

Mike W - Solo - 22/Aug/09

Got lost and ended up doing the end of crack and corner/ jelly roll instead of going left. A bit bold but brilliant gear.
Alexanderw - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09

Big Steve - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/09 with Karen

A bit tricky in places. Not a great climb route is brocken up by to many ledges and grassy areas. However the slab in the middle of the climb is a challange and a little scary as last gear is quite far away.
Mitch1990 - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/09

pffft - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Tom Perrin

PerrinT - 2nd - 25/Jul/09 with Luke Vincent

cooper leek - Solo O/S - 25/Jun/09

Ky - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/09 with Tom H

Sarah Applegate - 2nd - 21/Jun/09 with Will Randall

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/09

jcurley - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/09 with Mike Buddle

JEP - Solo - 03/Jun/09

@ndy - 2nd - 02/Jun/09 with Jonah

ok apart form one exposed move with no gear, almost took fall hmmmm
will randall - Lead O/S - Jun/09 with sarah

Mark Stitson (ULGMC) - Lead - 31/May/09 with Jake Howard

Jake Howard - 2nd O/S - 31/May/09 with Mark Stitson

Hidden - Lead - 01/Mar/09

Steeve - Lead O/S - Mar/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Feb/09

I THINK the first part of this got mashed into the top pitch of Crack and Corner in my typical superb route finding style
ClaireS - Lead - Sep/08

tobydunford - Solo O/S - 02/Aug/08

Tom Robinson - 2nd - 19/Jul/08 with Alex Porter

alexporter - Lead - 19/Jul/08 with Tom Robinson

DeniseWootten - Lead O/S - Jul/08 with Luke Walsh, Umbreen Ahmed, Paul Hendry

Found traverse hard
frume - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/08 with Saff

sparra - TR - 29/Mar/08 with matt faff

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

dzlhodgson - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/07 with Eddie Hung

dzlhodgson - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/07 with Eddie Hung

edmund94 - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/07

PaulGreenhead - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/07 with Kirsty

Kirsty - 2nd - 23/Sep/07 with PaulGreenhead

alanw - Lead - 15/Sep/07 with Tom R

Hidden - Lead - 08/Sep/07

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Sep/07

Jesse Dufton - Lead - Sep/07 with Foxy Steve

In my book this shows as a VD 4a, attempted to lead it and got nowhere quickly, so gave up and seconded... now I know why, it's a severe and not a nice one.
staceyjg - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/07 with Mark Booker

chalk monster - Lead - 04/Aug/07 with staceyjg

jayne-bravo - 2nd - 10/Jun/07 with Kim (nst)

kim.mulji - Lead - 10/Jun/07

wouldnt do this one again...
flower like - 2nd - Jun/07 with Chris Williams

jdgaventa - Solo - May/07

John-Luke Casey - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/07 with Josh Jones

Goody - 2nd O/S - 15/Apr/07 with Innominata

Hidden - Solo O/S - 21/Mar/07

spbond - 2nd O/S - 11/Mar/07 with Mark Stitson

Akward
Mark Stitson (ULGMC) - Lead - 11/Mar/07 with Steve Bond

rachelwheatcroft - 2nd - Jan/07 with Marvino

Diggler - Lead - 2007

EAYL - 2nd - 19/Sep/06 with Peak

Hidden - Solo O/S - 15/Sep/06

just started as a boulder, then i got higher adn higher adn reaslised that it was not that bad and would finnish the climb, loking back at it now, it was quite stupid, haha. never mind, a nice climb, bit palmy and balancy nearer the top.
Col_MAN - Solo - 16/Aug/06

Guy Wilson - Lead O/S - 14/May/06 with Byron Buck

good fun climb
tontopink - 2nd O/S - 05/Mar/06 with Steven Farden

studly84 - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/06 with thomas poulton

Hidden - Lead - 04/Mar/06

daza - Lead O/S - 25/Jan/06 with Sam D

Not realy a route more of three easy boulder probs on top of one another
A Crook - Solo O/S - 21/Jan/06 with Dom Stockton

DerwentDiluted - Solo - 19/Nov/05

Mark Stitson (ULGMC) - Lead - 12/Nov/05 with Andy

Caralynh - Lead - 29/Oct/05 with Iain Simpson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/05

franny - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/05

Mike Turner - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/05 with Alan Beaumont

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/05

DanT - Lead O/S - 25/May/05 with James Creedy

The Bad Cough - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/05 with Lee Bonner and Paul Sambrooks

Hidden - Lead - 2005

Hidden - 2nd - 2005

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - 2005

Rampikino - Lead - 10/Oct/04 with Liz Hay

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/04

Outdoorfun37 - Lead - 04/Jun/04 with Spitz

Hidden - Solo O/S - 19/Jun/03

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Jun/03

Hidden - 2003

platt2000 - Lead - 2002

Hedley - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/01 with Martin

Russell Flynn - Lead O/S - 14/May/00

rocktigger - Lead O/S - 2000 with lorna

marcoleptic - Solo - 2000

rlrs - Lead - 2000

antroy - Lead - 15/May/99

Hidden - Solo - 12/Oct/97

ColinD - Lead - 17/Jul/94

smudge - Solo O/S - 1993

whispering nic - 1991

Roget - Solo O/S - 27/Apr/90

andrew300169 - 1990

angry pirate - 1988

Used as descent many times.
Iain Thow - Solo - 16/Oct/85

Ian Archer - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/85 with Marcus Sierp

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Solo - 1980

Nigel Coe - Lead - 13/May/78 with Jackie Coe

mikej - Solo - 16/Sep/70 with Stewart Grant

David Smith - Solo - 1970

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
SuperLee1985, LauraChilterns, berry_a, Hidden, Hidden, Kamikaze Badger

Voting
Total votes cast 105
hard HS0 of 40
HS0 of 40
easy HS1 of 40
hard S0 of 40
S23 of 40
easy S6 of 40
hard HVD9 of 40
HVD0 of 40
easy HVD1 of 40
hard 4b0 of 34
4b0 of 34
easy 4b0 of 34
hard 4a4 of 34
4a28 of 34
easy 4a1 of 34
hard 3c1 of 34
3c0 of 34
easy 3c0 of 34
3 Stars0 of 31
2 Stars5 of 31
1 Star16 of 31
0 Stars10 of 31
Bag of .....0 of 31
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed29 of 268 (10.8%)
Lead155 of 268 (57.8%)
Followed67 of 268 (25.0%)
Toproped2 of 268 (0.7%)
Alt Leads4 of 268 (1.5%)
Unknown11 of 268 (4.1%)

'Climbed'118 of 268 (44.0%)
clean O/S137 of 268 (51.1%)
clean β5 of 268 (1.9%)
clean rpt2 of 268 (0.7%)
dogged3 of 268 (1.1%)
dnf3 of 268 (1.1%)