Restricted Access
The BMC has owned part of this popular sport climbing venue since 2005 (routes from Mr Cellulite’s Arete rightwards on the lower tier and from In the Jailhouse rightwards on the upper tier) and BMC land is actively managed for the benefit of climbers, walkers and conservation. Horseshoe varies from good quality, solid rock to significant areas of loose, hollow and blast shattered rock. Visitors should pay close attention at all times in case of loose rock and helmets are highly recommended whilst climbing or belaying.
In 2017, a re-bolting project took place on routes located on BMC owned land at Horseshoe to replace the old bolts and scale loose rock. The project replaced old fixed equipment of various vintage with new stainless steel glue in bolts, rationalised the bolt spacing on sport routes to reduce long runouts and standardised lower offs to double ring lower offs. A new lower off simulator has also been added to the large boulder below The Dust Bunnies on Main Wall to allow new sport climbers to practice re-threading rings before getting on the sharp end
19 routes were unfortunately decommissioned due to unstable or fractured rock which could not be scaled back to a solid state to place new bolts with confidence in their quality and strength. These routes have had their bolts removed and will not be re-equipped – we hope climbers will respect this decision.
Whilst this work has undoubtedly made the crag safer, it has not and cannot make it completely 'safe'. This is still a quarried venue with blast damaged rock, subject to ongoing weathering and undoubtedly loose rock will develop again over time, not to mention all the normal hazards associated with climbing outdoors. It should also be noted that the areas of the quarry not owned by the BMC have not been re-equipped and there will still be old bolts which could be widely varying in age and quality. Whether re-equipped or not, assessing the quality of the bolts and rock they are placed in before and as you climb is still an essential part of the climbing experience at Horseshoe, as it is at any other crag.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
House martins sometimes nest on various routes on Main Wall - please avoid any routes with nests on whilst the birds are in residence.
Approx 350m in length, the full length of the quarry plus a bit for ups and downs. A traverse of the entire back wall of the quarry, right to left, following the mid-height break. Interesting and sustained, often harder than expected, or easier and more pleasant. Take two ropes, plenty of slings/quickdraws and a full rack. Belays were generally taken whenever ledge opportunities were available, or at times to relinquish the lead. Water/food was left on ledges or pulled up in a bag kindly attached by helpers. Pitches were climbed as follows:
(1) “Toilet Training” f5+ An easy introductory pitch starting up Andrex, tricky final section, belay ledge right of cave on The Sewer. (2) “Pumpy Pitch” E2 5c with a sustained section from The Dogs to the corner of Willie the Kid. Hanging belay on left wall of the corner. (3) “Do Not Touch” Mild XS/ E3 5b probably the psychological crux pitch which involves spanning across a large wedged but dodgy-looking block, (gear placements either side of it) swing round arête with relief to bolt on Dark Tower, continue to belay in niche of Blade Runner. (4) “Now Relax” HVS 5a to good ledge on A Right Earful. (5) “Actually Quite Good Pitch” E2 5b to good ledge on Spectrophotonomy. (6) “Downpour Pitch” E2 5c long pitch with good climbing to sloping ledge on Shot yer Bolt. (7) “Crux Pitch” E3 6a Hard and sustained moves between Say it with Flowers and Wall of Jericho, good ledge belay on Waves of Mutilation. (8) “Anti-social Pitch” HVS 5a pleasant climbing timed to minimize annoyance to the masses on Pale Rider, continue round into the big corner, small ledge belay on Olive Oil. (9) “Crazy Juice Pitch” E2 5c interesting, to good ledge belay on Underslung. (10) “McTrad Pitch” E1 5b steady climbing across some blocky ribs, a little loose rock but not scary, small ledge belay on Nowt Taken Out (just right of Bootiful Bernard Matthews). (11) “Dig Deep” E2 5c long and sustained – but the end is in sight now! Traverse beneath the roof of Tirfin USA and pull back up to belay on Grab Yer Mandrakes. (12) “Down and Up” E2 5c, difficult section of poor rock on African’t passed by downward detour, back-rope for the second. Belay ledge in the corner. (13)”Crunchy Corners” E1 5b poor rock to cross arête of Sahara, then a balancy step across the next corner. Continue across the cracked wall to a rope-drag enforced belay on the arête of Weakened Warrior. (14) “Easy Finale” VS 4c across final walls to the mud/scree slope.
Nick Taylor, Andy Lewandowski 05/Aug/2011.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| nickcanute | 14 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Since several routes left of the main wall were stripped of their bolts, pitches 9 - 12 will be more serious. Although these had trad protection the bolts encountered were definitely welcome, especially where the route finding is difficult and areas of poor rock are encountered on pitches 11 and 12. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Since several routes left of the main wall were stripped of their bolts, pitches 9 - 12 will be more serious. Although these had trad protection the bolts encountered were definitely welcome, especially where the route finding is difficult and areas of poor rock are encountered on pitches 11 and 12. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Horseshoe Quarry
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Laurin
Grade: E3 6a ***
(High Tor)